In "Hu Xueyan" by the historical novelist Gao Yang (Xu Ruhong), Hu Xueyan and the Caobang boss You Wu had a meal to discuss business cooperation and practice for their good friend Gu Yingchun. They ate Fancai (large dishes, Western food). At this point,

The waiter had already brought the "tail food". After eating, the price was the price of a shark's fin banquet, but You Wu said he was not full.

"Fancai is really not good to eat, it's expensive, and it's not good." You Wu said with a smile, "I would rather have a plate of fried steamed buns on the stall, and it would make me feel more upset." This description indirectly praises the fried buns.

, but it may be a bit of an anachronism. Shengjian may not have appeared in the 1860s when the story is set in the book "Hu Xueyan". It is generally believed that shengjian appeared in the 1920s.

Shengjian is the abbreviation of 'sangjimoedhou'. The dictionary explains it as a kind of small steamed buns fried in oil and stuffed with meat. This definition is really unfamiliar to people who know about shengjian.

Pan-fried pancakes can be said to be the most representative snacks in Shanghai. Compared to pan-fried pancakes, fried dough sticks, flatbreads, and tiger claws are relatively bland. Nanxiang steamed dumplings are a bit lacking in fillings. The most important thing is that only in Shanghai,

Pan-fried buns are "steamed buns" rather than "baozi". Only in Shanghai, there is such a common "sheng-jian complex".

Shengjian first appeared in teahouses and was regarded as a kind of tea snack, but it is not what Zhitang (Zhou Zuoren) said in "Tea Food in Beijing" as "a snack that does not satisfy your hunger".

"It is a useless decoration, and the more refined the better," the role of Shengjian is full of oil and water. For the peddlers and lackeys who need to carry hunger, Shengjian is often worth the meal. The so-called teahouse where Shengjian was born is not under a secluded window.

The place where elegant guests drink tea is the place where ordinary people drink tea, which is accompanied by the tiger stove (boiling room) where ordinary people go to make boiling water. Next to the tiger stove, there is a stove modified from a tar barrel, with a stove on it.

A cast iron pan, with a long plate inside, is an extremely simple stall snack.

To make a few digressions, Shanghai’s local cuisine, which seems to be popular now in time-honored restaurants or private kitchens in clubs, actually has the same flavor of rich red sauce as pan-fried dishes, reflecting that this city that has always been an immigrant city was actually the same in those days.

In this commercial port where prostitutes are rampant, the status shown by the heavy taste cannot be concealed by the take me to show off and take me to fly after transforming into the international city of Oriental Paris.

However, the meaning of pan-fried food is usually lokwhe, which means comfort, satisfaction, and happiness, which is slightly the same as sakyi (meaning to eat satisfactorily), not to be lenghok (lenghok: discomfort in the stomach), not to eat.

(den: too full to digest), Mr. Gao Yang's writing "Luowei" also has its origins in Wu culture, and it is very interesting - it can indeed be said to be a kind of knowledge: the fried food is hot and fresh, with a lot of heavy oil fillings, and the top

Sprinkle sesame seeds and chopped green onion, eat it in your mouth, the aroma is fragrant... The feeling between the lips and kisses is probably only as good as the joyful reading of the wonderful article.

The action of tilting the big pot (this is to prevent the frying around the pot from being too brown), the expectation in the heart is probably only comparable to the difference in mood when waiting for the lover to appear.

As a result, fried food is no longer just a gift from the grassroots, but has become a favorite among men, women, and children regardless of class.

Even Zhang Ailing, the founder of the petty bourgeoisie world, is a fan of Shengjian.

She handles things in her own way and is not bullied.

Once on the road, the gangster snatched her handbag, and she fought for a long time before it was taken away. Another time, the gangbang grabbed the steamed bun in her hand, half of it fell to the ground, and she still took back the other half.

—— Hu Lancheng "This Life" It is said that on September 30, 2008, Zhang Ailing passed away at the age of 88. Mr. Shen Hongfei, the "Gan Sect Master" and Mr. Chen Zishan, Zhang Ailing's expert, together with Lu Yiming, the chief chef of a local private kitchen in Shanghai, designed and produced the "Zhang Ailing Banquet".

", among which the dim sum "Osmanthus Steamed" is named after her work "Osmanthus Steamed A Xiaobeiqiu", there are two dishes, one is osmanthus cake, the other is pan-fried.

Gradually, as it became popular in Shanghai, the fried pancake became independent and developed into a separate store in the 1930s.

According to Mr. Shen Jialu's opinion in "Old Taste of Shanghai", raw pancakes are not native to Shanghai. His research found that raw pancakes were brought in by immigrants. "So, I am willing to give Shanghai's most representative food reputation to Sheng Jialu."

Fried steamed buns show that Shanghai is an open city and a very inclusive city. "Judging from the origin of the Tang family, the founders of Luochunge and Dahuchun Shengjian, the origin of the steamed buns should be Danyang, Jiangsu.

However, due to the vicissitudes of life in Danyang, the reconstruction of the old city, and other reasons, it is difficult to distinguish whether the existing Shengjian is derived from inheritance or the return of food from other places.

There are different styles of pan-fried pancakes, including mixed-water pan-fried pancakes (with pork skin jelly added to the stuffing) and clear-water pan-fried pancakes (no meat skin pancake jelly added to the stuffing). There are also half-fermented dough and fully fermented dough.

The factional struggle on the Internet is no different than the Sword Sect and Qizong of the Huashan Sect.