In 1961, when Marshal Zhu De tasted Dingbian paste in Fuzhou, he said that such simple ingredients, such simple preparation, and such simplified eating method have such attractive charm. It is really unforgettable. .
Poems of Fuzhou Customs written by Zheng Dongkuo of the Qing Dynasty wrote: "The gardenias are blooming and the young are beginning to bloom. The remaining cold weather is still worrying about the beginning of summer. The bowls of cakes that make the eyes bright are strong enough for bamboo shoots. The old razor clams are bought and cooked on the side of the pot. ” From this, it can be seen that the snack Guobianpao has a history of more than 400 years in Fuzhou.
Speaking of the origin of Dingbianmu, there is an unusual story.
During the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, the coastal towns and villages of Fuzhou were often harassed by Japanese pirates. Qi Jiguang led troops into Fujian to suppress the Japanese pirates, and was supported and welcomed by the local people. The common people often sent grain and food to reward Qi's army. One day, the Qi family army arrived in the southern suburbs of Fuzhou. The local villagers set up the Eight Immortals Table and took the initiative to bring rice, fish, mushrooms, dried shrimps, etc., preparing to entertain the victorious warriors lively. At this moment, another wave of Japanese pirates attacked. Qi Jiguang asked about the situation and immediately gathered his team to prepare to annihilate the enemy pirates. When the people heard this, they were anxious and wanted to let the soldiers eat before going to war no matter what. I don't know who had the idea to grind the rice into pulp, mix it with shredded pork, clams, golden needles, fungus, dried razor clams, scallops, etc. to make a clear soup. The paste on the edge of the tripod came out. After all the soldiers had eaten, they bravely went into battle and wiped out all the Japanese pirates. "Spending the summer" by eating tripod noodles and remembering the national heroes also has a patriotic connotation.
On the streets of Fuzhou, it is easy to find a Guobian restaurant, but it is not easy to find a good Guobian restaurant. Although every restaurant has some dishes such as cooked fish boiled on the pot side, but if you eat it in your mouth with the machine-made pot side, it just doesn't taste the same. The Food Garden and Antai Restaurant in Dongjiekou are a window into Fuzhou cuisine, and the dish Guobian is indispensable. A big bowl full of pot rim, the soup is full of flavor, and the pot rim itself is of the right thickness, so you can’t help but say hello! The price is a bit expensive, but it's worth it, but the approachable pot side looks a bit expensive, which makes me feel a little uncomfortable. It would be more practical to find a small shop on the roadside. A good Guobian restaurant is like a good lover, hard to find! Lan's Guobian Restaurant on Gudong Road is quite famous. Thanks to an article in the newspaper, it is said that countless people came here with newspapers that day. I can imagine everyone's yearning for a good Guobian restaurant. As the restaurant becomes more famous, it becomes more expensive, and the quality level is compromised. However, the owner who is willing to put in the effort often adds new ways to add snacks to go with the pot, which has become a major feature. The Assorted Pot Bian on Dongtai Road is also quite popular. The small shop is often crowded. Although the soup is not clam soup, perhaps it is because of the name of the Assorted Pot Bian that it is thick and delicious. It's just that sometimes the edges of the pot are thicker and a bit out of standard. There are many newbies popping up on the street, often nicknamed Luoyuan Guobian or Lianjiang Guobian. I found a place to go in and have a taste, and I really tasted a lot of fresh flavors. The soup is still not clam soup, but given that the two places are famous for being rich in seafood, the more seafood is added to the soup, the more delicious it becomes. The thickness of the rim of the pot is acceptable, but the self-service ordering is a novelty. You can add some of your favorite ingredients to the rim of the pot according to your own preferences. It is estimated that they will be the most popular hotpot restaurant in the near future.
There are many tips for eating pot side. As a good eater, of course, this common sense is indispensable.
First of all, there is the soup. Nowadays, the cooking method of the pot has not changed much, but the clam soup is definitely not found, and some only have thick MSG soup. But considering the price of a bowl of 5 cents, there is really no reason for a small shop to spend such a large amount of money. If you are more particular, add some luxurious ingredients to the soup, such as oysters, salted fish, etc., the price will naturally be higher. Next, there is the thickness of the pot rim. A pot rim that is too thick or unevenly thick can only indicate that the chef’s skills are poor. A pot rim that is too thin is usually not found. If there is, it not only indicates that the chef’s skills are good, but also This shows how stingy the store owner is. Finally, let’s talk about the snacks that go with the pot. Eating by the side of the pot, the soup was a bit empty, so I couldn't help but order whatever I wanted. For example, the common fried dough sticks, oyster cakes, carrot cakes, etc. are all fried in oil pan until golden and crispy. The deep-fried dough sticks are the least distinctive. Not only the side of the pot, but also soy milk, porridge, etc. can be made do without mentioning them. Oyster cakes and shrimp (hā) Lu (circle) are different. Both of them add soybean flour to the rice milk. The oyster cake naturally contains oysters, while the shrimp sue is mixed with a few small shrimps. Among them, when fried in oil, it becomes golden and pleasing to the eye.
For a delicious person, delicious food will always be accompanied by various memories. A friend recalled, “I remember when I was a kid, there was a Guobian shop at the entrance of the alley. I would often go to the alley on summer evenings, wearing a pair of flip-flops and a big enamel cup in my arms, to buy a large bowl of Guobian and enjoy it. I took it home happily. After I got home, I ate it with a fan. The quality of the pot at that time was better, and the ingredients were more refined. Although there was no clam soup, there was always a surprise in every bite, including a small cuttlefish bite. Later, due to demolition, the Guobian store moved away, which made me miss it for a long time. Later, when I started working, I would go out to the bar with my friends at night and see Guobian when I came home. With the bright lights and steam in the store, I couldn't help but go in and get a bowl. I remember one time in a small shop where business was not very good. The rim of the pot was not freshly made, and the rim of the pot was already mushy with the soup when it was placed in a large aluminum pot. When we were together, the taste was naturally greatly reduced. So I and a few companions started shouting loudly and complaining vigorously. The poor shop owner was made worse by us and asked for a discount, but now that I think about it, it seems a bit inappropriate. The invincible youth at that time is really nostalgic.
I remember another time, one night in winter, it was already too late to play, and I was wandering around the streets near dawn with my companions, and suddenly I saw something. When I saw a light in front of me, I walked over to a pot stall where an old lady (Fuzhou dialect: old lady) was grinding rice milk. We eagerly wanted to help her! Im making a fire. The two of them sat around the stove made of gasoline barrels, chatting with Lao Im for a while. Finally, at dawn, we started to feed the gasoline barrel with firewood. I ate the pot side of the first pot at the stall, maybe because I added the firewood, or maybe because my companion was a handsome guy. I felt that the bowl of pot side was indescribably delicious and joyful, and there was also a little bit of romance. The steam spread out when the pot was lifted. Ever since, this memory has become the most unforgettable.”
The love for the side of the pot has deepened again and again with these beautiful memories. So much so that every time I leave home for a long time, the only thing I miss is my family and the pot. When I get home and put down my luggage, the first thing to do is to go to the street to find a hot pot restaurant and have a good meal. Then I was content to sit in the store and stare blankly for a while, looking for the feeling of "Old Fuzhou Sweet Potato".