( 1)

Blow my stomach, I'm interested! Crispy tripe with hot sesame seed cake and a bowl of mutton offal soup. This is a hot tie, even if you don't change its sovereignty, we are so ambitious!

In the place where you teach Muslim restaurants, there is no one who does not prepare this snack, which is famous for its frequent patronage. You said it was a big plate, and it was lifted. If you say this is not enough, you lack knowledge. How many great gourmets enjoy this humble poor man alone.

Ma, a famous actress, is also a glutton. He knows tripe like the back of his hand. During the Republic of China, Shenglong Jin opened by Feng Jinsheng was the most famous tripe shop in Beijing. At that time, Ma Li Anliang had an evening performance, so he had to take a tripe home from Shenglong Jin. The tripe is crisp, and Feng Jinsheng is unique in that his tripe is crisp when it is cold.

Shenglong Jin is still booming today. If you like this, you might as well go to Kang and taste it yourself. As for being old, I guess it has changed a lot. When the calendar turns back, when mountains and rivers change, the taste of tripe will keep pace with the times.

Ma finally returned to Beijing from Xiangjiang, which had been stranded for several years. His homesickness is first manifested in his desire for food in his hometown. After a long illness, Ma Boss, who was eager to break out like a doctor, couldn't wait to go to Shenglong Jin, but he suffered a lot.

The tripe is eaten with dipping sauce. With all kinds of innovations in the new society, dipping sauce has become splashing sauce, and the sauce has been obviously diluted. Ma Li Anliang and the man discussed dipping in a bowl of food again. At this time, this person is not a junior in the old society, but a young worker in the new society, full of ownership and new terms. Ma, who has always been conservative, really doesn't understand what the bourgeois lifestyle is much deeper than drama, so he begged for mercy: Can I not eat?

If the articles about food exceed the cooking standards, they will be willing to take care of themselves. Diet can become a culture, not in the food itself, but in the people who give it vitality. China on the Tip of the Tongue is very good, because it tells the story of China people. The story I'm going to tell today is about an upset stomach, and the hero's surname is also Ma.

Horse is the most popular name in Islam, but every family has the same surname. This horse has nothing to do with Li Anliang. As for the relationship with the widow Ma, I have yet to verify it.

(2)

I didn't ask Ma Ye's big man, but after 60 years old, he has a wide body and a fat body. Zhuo Zhuo, Niu Shan, can ask him to play the flower monk in the future filming of Water Margin. I have a hobby. Everywhere I go, I will explore local snacks and look for the miracle left by people. I drove Master Ma out of Beijing Hutong.

The wonder of life lies in the unspeakable fate, but this fate needs to be grasped by yourself, and you have the courage to believe in the kindness of strangers. Every vagrant is lonely when he first arrives in another country, and I am no exception. When I first came to Beijing, I was born in two places and was full of curiosity. I ran into Master Ma in the rambling.

I remember it was also the early spring of men's show. Maye's small restaurant is very close to me. I didn't expect to go in many times. I was so greedy that I listened to my inner call that day. I had a rough life experience. Most delicious snacks come from mean streets. With an empirical attitude, I stepped into the threshold and was almost scared off.

There is a big bald head sitting at the door, with hunter's eyes and faint smoke. Shit, is this the shop in Jiang Menshen? Unfortunately, I'm not Brother Wu!

Master Ma nodded at me motionless: "Are you alone? Sit down and eat a tripe? " Out of respect for Mr. Ma, I didn't talk to him, so I ate in a hurry and left. Who let me be from the Appearance Association? But the taste of his stomach is stored in my taste bud memory.

A few days later, the temptation of gluttonous insects forced me into Master Ma's restaurant, which should be regarded as our first meeting.

On that day, several young artists sat at the next table, eating their stomachs, playing guitars and singing Erguotou folk songs. It is not surprising that this foreign accent only appears in Beijing. The smell of joy can always eliminate strangeness and reserve. I also joined the party at the next table, and Master Ma moved a stool and leaned in.

Different from my listening, Master Ma took the guitar from a young man and sang "Eggs under the Red Flag" in a deep voice. He became the boiling point of the audience. Thunder is rolling. I didn't expect such a rough gentleman to have a coquettish heart.

The little brothers at the next table are all born after 90, and they don't know the name of the song that Ma also sang. Ma also expressed a little disappointment: the year has changed, and this is our song at that time.

I can't help but blurt out: "Cui Jian is the national idol of your generation!"

"Oh, yes, brother, have you heard of Lao Cui?" Master Ma gave me a ray of light when he looked at me.

"Eggs under the red flag"? I heard of Lao Cui in junior high school. "

The most effective way to quickly close the distance between people is to find a common topic. Ma and I both started talking. Ma is also a diligent person, and I am a moderate glutton. Naturally, I want to talk about the way of drinking, and I have become friends with horses.

Since then, I have to eat fried belly once a week, not for lunch, but for chatting with interesting people.

We have visited almost all the time-honored brands in Beijing and Tianjin, such as sliced hibiscus chicken in Dongxing Building, onion and sea cucumber in Fengze Garden, mullet and egg soup in Cuihua Building, mutton hoof in sauce in Fanghui Building, beef steamed dumplings in Yongyuande, and barbecue in Nanwan North Season. ...

It was not until I got to know horses better that I realized that he was rich. This is no ordinary chef. He talked about the practical sublimation of diet. Speaking of barbecue, it will lead to a story in A Dream of Red Mansions, in which the delicious baby powder cuts the fishy smell and smells like spring breeze. The only fly in the ointment is that Shi Xiangyun is not sitting opposite me.

Master Ma knows the customs of Beijing very well, such as when to take photos at the corner of the Forbidden City, which wife Qi Baishi likes best, which house he lives in nearby, and which senior official ... I have seen him as a voluntary tour guide for diners in Beijing more than once.

(3)

Master Ma is very strange in doing business. He must close the door on National Day. I asked him why he didn't open the door on the best day. Ma Yun's reason is very old Beijing: "I'm too fucking busy to take a vacation for myself all year round." If you don't earn enough money, you have to spend it! "

My chat with Master Ma is that I drink alone, and he only chats with me. I advised him to drink with me several times, but Master Ma refused. "I'm waiting for you. I have guests eating and drinking, and I don't know the rules. "

Old Beijing is full of enthusiasm and pays more attention to both internal and external repair. I turned down my invitation several times. Ma wanted to invite me alone that day, but instead of drinking, she took a bath. This honest meeting let me know Master Ma's past story.

Ma Ye's bathing is a normal life, commonly known as putty. At 8 o'clock every day, Master Ma closes the door to see the guests off. He must get together with his bath friends. It is a small bathhouse in East No.42 Middle School, hidden in the depths of hutong like his restaurant. Nowadays, there are many bath centers, and it is not easy for you to find such a beautiful bath. If you have seen the movie Bath, you will definitely remember the rich Beijing flavor and warm human feelings in the bathhouse. Master Ma and his bath friends are a realistic portrayal of this film, only more dreamy.

They said it was a bath, but it was actually a sauna competition, which opened my eyes. I have seen many saunas in the north and south, but this is the first time I have seen such a horrible sauna.

It's no exaggeration to say it's horrible. The air in that room is boiling hot, and you feel your skin burning as soon as you enter. Master Ma was afraid that I couldn't stand it, so he specifically told me, "Don't try to be brave. If you don't feel well, just leave. Last time, a young man from Inner Mongolia pretended to be B, and his eyes blistered on his shoulders. "

They pay attention to three in and three out of the steam bath, and the thermometer is hung on the wall. When they walk three times from low to high, they think it is steamed. The cloud steamed Xia Wei, and the horse was in Tan Xing. "Don't look at my brother's virtue, we are also serious college students!"

(4)

Ma is also an undergraduate of Capital Institute of Physical Education. After graduation, he worked as a teacher in a middle school in Dongcheng District. According to him, he has been a teaching model for three years. During the spring outing of 1989, Ma was among them. After the investigation, oversight asked Ma to make a written review. He grabbed his neck and said, Lao Tzu is right! "A gentleman can't buckle the toilet on his head. Yes, that's right. I pig eight quit to throw a rake-I don't serve (monkeys). "

At that time, it took a lot of courage to resign, and Ma left the system and became a self-employed. He turned his clothes upside down, threw away several carriages, made some money and lost everything, and finally remembered this family craft.

Ma Ye's son inherited his mantle and studied Sanda in the Institute of Physical Education. He said that he would retire and travel around the world when his son graduated. "Get to know your little sister better before you get old."

Although everything will end, I didn't expect Master Ma's party to end so quickly. Business trip, back to Shanghai headquarters for one year. When I returned to Beijing, I immediately went to Maye's small restaurant. I'm sorry, General Tie closed the door.

On my way to Shanghai, I received a phone call from Master Ma. When he was walking around the corner, he suddenly missed me, asked me about my recent situation, reminded me to pay attention to my health, and said that he would invite me to dinner when he came back. Why did he suddenly lock it? Today is not a holiday either.

More than half a month has passed, and Ma Ye's shop hasn't opened yet, so I can't help calling him. Master Ma's voice at the other end was very excited: "Brother, you are back. I am in Dongguan. Hey, this place is a fucking aristocratic paradise. I don't even bother to go back. " At that time, Dongguan had not yet ushered in the purification of social air, and Ma and his friends drove to South Guangdong. Obviously, "gentle country is the grave of heroes".

A month later, I met Master Ma. The shop is open, but closed. As usual, he sat behind the desk smoking and told me about the fun of this long trip. Although his mouth was full of laughter, his face was obviously worried.

I asked him, "What happened when you didn't meet guests when you came back from this trip?"

"Hey, I got rich and made friends, but I was unlucky." Master Ma told me something.

(5)

Next to Maye's shop is a supermarket run by a couple. The man calls him Lao Si, and the couple have been working hard in Beijing for more than ten years. Old four sees that Master Ma's business is good, and it's not too complicated to make a tripe. His wife had seen enough by herself in the supermarket, so she volunteered to help Master Ma. She didn't need any reward, just enough beer. Master Ma is really tired when he is busy alone. It is inappropriate to hire a man. Old four is willing to do it, and Master Ma can relax. Besides, a distant relative is not as good as a close neighbor. A horse is also a red face, so you can't refuse others' kindness.

Old four is a man with a heart. When Master Ma is in charge of the kitchen, he always looks at it carefully. After a long time, he thought he had finished smoking. The authentic uncle Beijing is really not the material of the director. He is lazy, broad-minded and soft-hearted. He didn't respond when people put him in a condom.

Old four doesn't know when to get along well with the landlord. The landlord informed Ma that the house must be taken back for emergency use and gave Ma two months to move. Master Ma thought it was going to raise the rent, but people said it had nothing to do with money, but they stopped renting it and returned the rest of the rent to Master Ma. The blood of the horse came out and had a big fight with the landlord. The next day, the landlord cut off the water. Old four appeared at the right time, showed deep brotherhood in front of Ma Ye, and wanted to negotiate with the landlord for Ma Ye, but he had one small request. Old four's condition is that he is in charge of housekeeping, but this store will change its owner, and he will take a stake and share the bill with Master Ma.

"He left me 20%, so fucking loyal!" At this time, Master Ma suddenly realized that the director of the play was around! As for why the old four won the landlord, the horse is still unclear. He said he would think about it and only go to road trip for two months.

Master Ma finally failed to accept the conditions of Lao Si. He disappeared from this street. I haven't seen him for three years. Old four inherited Master Ma's signboard and hired two guys. He is much more diligent than Master Ma and has increased his breakfast.

Every time I pass by, I see the excitement inside is even worse than when Master Ma is there. Old four always has a smile on his face. How many times have you seen me? Old Four warmly invited me: "Come in for a drink, just like when Master Ma is here. This is also your home. " I often refuse to thank him. I really don't know what that smell is. God knows!

I picked up the phone several times to talk to Master Ma, but I switched to his number and put it down again. Without that store, I don't know what Mr. Ma's financial situation is now. I'm afraid I'll hurt his pride. Mr. Ma is a respectable person. Of course, it is also possible that Master Ma realized his long-cherished wish, retired completely and chatted with sisters all over the country. If so, I'm happy for him. I vaguely remember Master Ma saying, "At my age, I am a technical school, pulling lightly, dragging slowly and finding feelings."