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Cai Lan's food articles?
Cai Lan is a famous writer and gourmet, and he, together with Jin Yong, Ni Kuang and Huang Jingsheng, is called the four great talents in Hong Kong. Many of his articles are related to food. The following is what I arranged for you. I hope you like it.

1: Eat raw fish when studying abroad.

I work part-time when I go to Japan to study, and eat nine meals three days when I am poor. They are all the same salted fish. I ate a lot when I was rich.

Sushi is the most expensive. At first, only dark red Maguro was selected. Hong Kong people still look down on it, but the "real tuna HON MAGURO" caught in the Sea of Japan is more delicious than the tuna belly TORO shipped from India or Spain in recent years. Sometimes, pickling a bell with soy sauce and slicing it is high-grade food. If you talk to Japanese about sashimi, they will feel awe.

Actually, TORO is too greasy, not as delicious as "SHIMA AJI". This kind of fish is good and cheap, but not many people know how to eat it.

When the Japanese eat fish, they should cut it neatly and beautifully, and throw away the most beautiful fish paste on their stomachs. I told my master to scrape off the layer of Toro ointment and burn it with a musket. It's delicious.

Bonito can also be eaten raw, but the skin and belly of the fish must be burned. Have you ever seen people in China live like this? It's a bit scary to eat, because there are parasites in the skin and stomach of bonito, especially in the stomach. When parasites grow up, they will turn into yellow sores, so it is impossible not to burn them. After being dried, bonito is as hard as wood. We usually call it wooden fish. The shredded wood fish can be used to cook soup or put on tofu, and it seems to move when it is sprinkled with soy sauce.

Eating raw fish has become a part of Hong Kong people's life. I am familiar with it, so I won't introduce other fish in detail. Let's talk about some strange things I tasted when I was studying abroad.

In Hokkaido, there is a kind of fish called "Illicium verum". The fish body is actually octagonal with eight prominent scales. I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it. It becomes sashimi after peeling. Although there is not much meat, it smells good.

There is a stone fish named Wukong in Hokkaido, which sticks to rocks all its life, motionless, does not swim, and its bones degenerate, leaving only cartilage. Chop it into pieces to cook noodles and black bean soup, which is delicious.

There is an ugly Okosei fish called "Tiger Head Fish". It is said that the hunter will take this fish with him when he goes up the mountain, because there are monsters in the mountain, and the mountain god known as the ugly girl will take out the dried tiger fish when he meets her. When I found someone uglier than myself, I was ecstatic and asked the hunter not to eat him. In real life, cutting tiger fish into sashimi has a faint fragrance and is very delicious.

Speaking of ugliness, the stone fish "Anke" is also powerful enough. When I first arrived in Japan, I hung an iron hook outside the pavilion in Shinjuku, half a person's height. Because it is full of cartilage, after leaving water, the weight of the meat will crush the gallbladder and the whole fish will be thrown away. It is divided into seven parts. First of all, the liver can be eaten raw or cooked. Second, shark fin. Third, the ovary. Fourth, willow meat * * * includes cheeks * * *. Fifth, the stomach. Six, gills. Seven, the skin. Boil all the parts in a pot, which is called "ANKO NABE".

Mambo is called "Sunfish", which is as round as the sun in English. There are two big wings at the tail, with thick skin and little meat. Sunfish sashimi is white and has a unique taste. It's used to eating and feels good. You can also cook it with noodles and soak the skin in vinegar.

Back to normal fish, salmon is called "salmon" in Japanese, which is divided into white salmon, sockeye salmon and black salmon. Salmon can still be seen swimming from the sea to the river to lay eggs, but at this time it has been deformed, its jaw is upturned, and it is ferocious and terrible. No one dares to eat it except the grizzly bear.

The Japanese have long known that there are many parasites in salmon, and they will never eat it raw. Most of them are salted, sliced, burned or cooked, which was my main food when I was poor. As soon as I get paid, I will eat salmon IKURA, which is fresh and never salty. It is delicious in the world. However, * * * is rarely tasted, only once in the "Murakami Banquet" made in Niigata Prefecture, including salmon head cartilage, called "ice head", pickled with vinegar, and salted stomach and intestines, totaling 22 products.

The belly of salmon is called HARASU. In the past, it was cut and thrown away, but now it is sold in bags. It's the most greasy and delicious, and a high-end sushi restaurant will cook it for you. I bought it from Tsukiji fish market, but I didn't need oil, so I fried it, and so did immortal food.

Like salmon, there is the sweetest and most delicious catfish in summer, which is called fragrant fish in Taiwan Province Province. Strange to say, when a live fish is caught by hand and smelled by nose, it has no fishy smell and smells like cucumber.

Catfish is usually cooked and eaten. I believe everyone has tried. What is rare is that its intestines and liver are soaked in noodle sauce, which is called uluka. It is bitter and delicious.

When it comes to internal organs, the biggest misunderstanding of Hong Kong people is that caviar is called crab. The crisp taste comes from flying fish. Another hard lump in Japanese is called "Son of Number", which is an egg tied with fish.

The most famous fish roe is mullet, also known as "mullet" or "dried fish", which is divided into fresh water and salt water. Mullet roe and Calassou rice can only be made under the condition of large marine fish. The Japanese call it "Tangmo", which looks like an ink stick imported from Japan in the Tang Dynasty. Later, it spread to Taiwan Province Province and was carried forward by them. Most people think that Taiwan Province Province first learned to eat mullet roe.

The most precious caviar is puffer fish, which is an appetizer pickled with salt and takes three years to detoxify. Nothing special, just salty.

Of course, puffer fish must be talked about. First of all, it is cooked with meat, which is sweet and addictive. Amazingly, it doesn't smell when it is cold. If you eat sashimi, for the first time, you feel that the meat is very hard and there is nothing to eat. But after chewing it carefully for the second and third time, you will know why you are desperate to eat it.

Sin. sin. I also tried a whale. It was full of treasures. Its subcutaneous fat was called Bergen because it looked like fat pork. The small intestine is called Baixun, the stomach is called T-shaped, and the kidney is called bean dirty. You can also eat it, but the meat at the tail is the most beautiful, not worse than TORO, so we can know why the Japanese are so crazy about it.

In Japan, I have eaten countless fish, which are very good raw, but cooked with sake and soy sauce, which is not inferior to the steamed fish of Hong Kong people, especially the tail named KINKI, which has a layer of fat under its skin and can never get tired of eating it.

There are so many fish that I won't list them one by one. After studying abroad, I wandered around the world again. On the one hand, I went overseas to eat fish for filming.

Chapter 2: Face Idiot

I don't remember when I became an idiot. I only know that my mother has told me to eat rice since I was a child, and I always press the button; When we met, I grabbed it and was afraid to sweep it away for my brothers and sisters first. "How about giving you noodles every day for 365 days a year?" Mom asked with a smile. I nodded solemnly and forcefully.

When I first went abroad, I arrived in Kuala Lumpur. The vacant lot opposite the Federal Hotel is a taxi stand, which serves the long-distance bus to Cameron Plateau. Three or four strangers can share one. Late at night, I saw a street vendor named "Drooling" serving taxi drivers. Hungry, eating this dish is extremely delicious, and the poison inside is deeper from now on.

This is a kind of fried noodles called Fujian, which is only available in Kuala Lumpur. When I grew up, I went to Fujian and never ate anything with the same taste. First of all, noodles are different from ordinary butter noodles. They are thicker than Japanese oolong noodles and cut into square strips.

Add a lot of lard, stir-fry and sprinkle with ground fish meal and lard residue. Its fragrance is predictable and sweet, and it is covered with thick black soy sauce, just like Hainan chicken rice.

The ingredients are only a few small pieces of squid and meat slices. Stir-fry until medium-cooked. Sprinkle a handful of broccoli bean sprouts and lard residue into it, cover it, let the sauce soak the noodles, open the cover and rummage a few times. A plate of dark and oily Fujian fried noodles is ready.

After I have a girlfriend in Kuala Lumpur, I will go there after I go, and then I will eat fried noodles in Fujian. There is a booth behind the bank, a booth in PJ Satellite City, and the most famous "Golden Lotus" in Cichang Street.

I also liked wonton noodles when I first came into contact with them. I remember that it was a vendor from Guangzhou in the "Great World Playground", and the vendor and the guy were all arranged by one person. Even the factory is arranged. Beat noodles with bamboo in the morning, roll soup with pig bones and native fish in the afternoon, and sell noodles at night. He is also in charge of the propaganda department, knocking bamboo pieces to the ground.

Both soup and noodles are authentic, but barbecued pork is different. Pork is completely thin, coated with maltose, and it is only red instead of burnt black. Because there is no fertilizer, you can't burn it in brown sauce. From then on, the barbecued pork used in Nanyang barbecued noodles was all thin. Some vendors are not skilled and have a bad smell, but this bad smell has made people homesick and they will look for it.

Wonton Noodles in Nanyang has its own style. My favorite food is dry fishing. I put black vinegar, soy sauce, ketchup and hot sauce on the empty plate. Cook the noodles, drain and mix in the sauce. On the top, there are a few cabbage hearts that are not fat or beautiful in Nanyang weather, and a few barbecued pork with red inside.

In addition, a small bowl of soup is presented. There are several wonton in the soup, wrapped in small bags, with more skin and less stuffing. The fatal attraction is that a lot of lard residue and sweet and sour green peppers in that small soy sauce can eat three dishes without anything, because the amount of noodles is not much.

When they arrived in Japan in the 1960s, their economy had not yet taken off and people's lives were quite poor. The station at the west exit of Shinjuku is made of wood. When I came out, there were songbirds under the bridge. They have a snack. That's Lamian Noodles from the vendor's stall.

Let's try a bowl together. What kind of noodles is that? Hard noodles, that bowl of soup has no meat at all. It is all made of soy sauce and water. Of course, a lot of monosodium glutamate is added, but the price is cheap and it is the best choice.

The Japanese Lamian Noodles we eat today is the result of decades of improvement, and there is no such thing as pork bone soup and noodle soup base. If you eat the original Lamian Noodles, you will definitely vomit.

Instant noodles were invented at that time, but it can be said that they are as delicious as today's products, so they will be addicted, or forced to be addicted! That was the cheapest and most convenient food in those days. I bought them box by box at home, a box of 24 packs. Young people have a big appetite and eat five or six boxes a month.

What? Eat all instant noodles? That's right. As soon as I get paid, I will treat people. My visiting friends don't know the high prices in Japan. A meal often eats up 89/ 10 of my income, and the rest is transportation expenses and instant noodles.

The most primitive instant noodles, in addition to the packaging of monosodium glutamate powder, also have two pieces of dried bamboo shoots wrapped in transparent plastic paper, which is more luxurious than what is added today. Remember not to cook, just soak it in boiling water. Doctors suggest that eating too much monosodium glutamate is harmful to your health. It is also said that there is a layer of wax on the outside of instant noodles. If you eat too much, it will accumulate in your stomach. This is complete nonsense. Instant noodles are a kind of welfare. I've been eating for decades, and I'm still alive.

When traveling to Korea, their noodles are made of miscellaneous grains, which are hard and tough. For the first time in my life, I ate cold noodles in a big soup bowl with a few pieces of ice floating on it. The waiter cut them open with scissors before swallowing them.

But this kind of noodles can also be addictive, especially dry fishing, mixed with spicy and fragrant sauces. I can never get tired of eating them, and I still like them very much. I also made instant noodles, which I often buy to eat.

As for the instant noodle soup called Xin, I am far away. Although I can eat spicy food, I can't drink spicy soup. When I drink it, my throat becomes red and swollen, and I cough desperately.

Today, Zhajiang Noodles, the national dish of South Korea, is a specialty of Shandong immigrants, which is also called fast food Lamian Noodles. When you walk into a restaurant, when you order noodles, you will hear the banging of Lamian Noodles. There is nothing but a mass of black paste and a few slices of onion. Eating has become a favorite thing for Koreans. When you go abroad, you want to eat this bowl of Zhajiang Noodles most, just like Hong Kong people miss Wonton Noodles.

Speaking of which, I remember an episode. One of our friends had a painter who broke an arm in primary school. He was an orphan and fell in love with the daughter of another overseas Chinese. We helped him go to his girlfriend's father. That guy said that my daughter is going to marry a man who knows Lamian Noodles. We were angry and said that you knew our friend was one-armed. What else can we pull? Said he was going to hit someone, and his father ran away.

I didn't know that Italians love noodles so much until I went to Europe, but that's not noodles, it's powder. Eat what you want; Although Italians eat noodles, they are completely different from our noodles. From the beginning, they cooked the noodles and rice half-cooked, saying that it was the most "toothed" or "unable to bite". I can't agree with you at all.

The only acceptable thing is "angel's hair" * * * D 'Angelo * *, similar to Wonton Noodles. Later, after living in Italy for a long time, I could enjoy their coarse noodles, the so-called spaghetti.

It is not easy to make spaghetti delicious. Usually, you should follow the instructions printed on paper and it will be perfect in a minute or two. There is a Mediterranean shrimp in Italy. Its head is black with cold, and its meat is a little moldy. But don't underestimate this shrimp. It's delicious to mix spaghetti with a few tails.

Other shrimps can't. Use Hong Kong shrimp, even if it is alive, it doesn't taste like Mediterranean sea water. This is abstract, but people who have tried will know what I am talking about.

There is spaghetti sprinkled with mullet roe, which people in Taiwan Province province don't know, thinking that mullet roe is only eaten by people in Taiwan Province province and Japan. Spaghetti sprinkled with cheese powder will never mix with flour itself. Cheese is cheese, flour is flour, but there is a cooking method, that is, dig a piece of cheese as big as a chef's chopping board into a tripod, cook the noodles and put them in for stirring. This is the best spaghetti.

We can't find spaghetti in the former Yugoslavia. Later, I lived for a long time before I knew that there was a kind of shredded chicken noodles, which was as thin as a toothpick and as long as a toothpick, and it was easy to cook. Boil the soup, sprinkle a handful and put it in. Because there is no wonton noodles to eat, let's just say so. There is almost no soup, only a lot of noodles to relieve homesickness.

When I went to India, I found Indian fried noodles, which I loved when I was a child. It is fried with a lot of ketchup and soy sauce. The ingredients are only broccoli, cooked sweet potato pieces, bean sprouts and a little mutton. Noodles are completely uncooked, which is my favorite. But I didn't find that the Indian fried noodles I ate were invented by Indians who immigrated to Nanyang.

In those years when I lived in Taiwan Province Province, I ate noodles the most, as well as the legacy of Fujian in those years. Fujian fried noodles are very authentic, of course, butter noodles and many ingredients, including pork slices, squid, oysters and eggs. Stir-fry until half-cooked, put down a large bowl of soup, cover and cook until cooked. It tastes really delicious and enjoyable.

What the local people do is called Daoxiao Noodles. The so-called cutting is "Lu". Slice, or it may be true. Slices of pig lung, pig liver, smoked black fish, etc. Casual, also called "black-and-white film", sprinkle with shredded ginger and pour with thick soy sauce. It is so rich that I will never get tired of eating it.

Of course, they are best at "Du Xiaoyue" noodles. After the noodles are cooked, they are poured with minced meat sauce with a teaspoon. So far, this tradition has been preserved. Noodles must be served with a can of meat sauce, a meatball or half a salted egg, and some bean sprouts and vegetables should be added to the noodles. The most important thing is fried red onion, which is called dried onion in Hong Kong.

When I returned to Hong Kong to settle down, I also ate noodles cooked by Shanghainese, without laying eggs, alkaline water, no fragrance and no teeth. I think this noodle is tasteless, but it only fills my stomach instead of rice, but my Shanghai friends never agree with it and scold me for not appreciating it. Of course I don't care.

The best noodles in Shanghai are deep-fried, fried with thick oil and red sauce, and there are many broccoli and little meat, but I like them very much. As for their stewed noodles, they are very soft and I am not interested. Being burned is equal to a small dish. Have a big bowl of tasteless noodle soup with dishes on it and serve it. I don't think it's anything special either. My favorite is mixed noodles with scallion oil. Cut the Beijing green onions into sections, fry them in oil, and mix the noodles without any ingredients. Very delicious. Unfortunately, when I went to a Shanghai restaurant today and asked if it was lard, everyone shook their heads. Noodles with scallion oil, not lard, it is better to eat styrofoam. Another alternative is to let another guest braise in soy sauce and pick up lard to mix noodles.

There are all kinds of noodles in Hong Kong, but dried noodles in Thailand are rare. I have repeatedly advocated this street snack. Now there are several people in Kowloon City who are willing to cook this dish. They use lard, boiled minced pork, pork liver and pork balls, sprinkled with fried shallots and garlic, added a lot of lard residue, and countless other ingredients. Noodles are just a handful and my favorite.

When I want to eat noodles crazily, I can cook it myself. I eat different noodles for breakfast every day. My domestic helpers are trained by me and go back to my hometown to open noodle shops. Cook Wonton Noodles on Monday, Hakka tea and oil noodles on Tuesday, beef noodles on Wednesday, zhajiang noodles on Thursday, lasagna on Friday, Nanyang shrimp noodles on Saturday and Cai fried noodles on Sunday.

Cai's fried noodles inherited the tradition of Fujian fried noodles and used oil noodles. First, stir-fry garlic with lard, put noodles in the pot and stir-fry at random. When you see noodles are too dry, simmer them in soup, then fry them and watch them dry. Beat two or three eggs and mix the noodles together. At this time, add sausage slices, fish cakes and shrimps, then fry until the materials are cooked, and add thick black soy sauce and fish sauce to taste.

I have been eating noodles in my dreams. I'm so full that I can't eat any more. People in China say they are full and pat their stomachs. The Japanese said they were full and put their hands around their necks. When a Spaniard is full, he will point to his ear to show that he is full. My dream is mostly noodles.

Article 3: Fish to eat when traveling.

Take a boat from Kokura, Japan to Busan, South Korea, then take the train, stop at one stop, enjoy the local seafood, and finally arrive in Seoul * * * now Seoul * * *.

Japan has caught too many fish and shrimp, but South Korea is still very rich and extremely cheap. Call the waiter when you see live fish in the fish tank? Come and eat. Japanese seldom sashimi fish offal, while Koreans eat it. Intestines and livers are very delicious when eaten raw. The former is crisp and the latter is soft and sweet.

They make golden dyes and marinate raw fish intestines in cabbage, which complicates their taste and is also a culture. The strangest thing is that the devil fish is pickled and fermented, which is extremely unpleasant, but it is addictive and wants to eat.

There is also a sea eel that lives on the bottom of the sea. When it opens its mouth, there are floating animals to eat, and its eyes gradually degenerate and become blind. The body has changed, and the bones are gone. The fishermen grabbed a handful of ten tails, lit a fire with straw, and then threw the blind eels in. Soon, the skin was burnt. Hold your hand tightly and touch it forward, revealing white meat, which tastes like that. It is not hard at all, and it has a bite. Sweet and delicious after chewing.

When I go to Europe, there are always fish and meat for the main course on the menu. I never call the former. Because foreigners eat fish, cod, grouper, sea bream, red snapper, mackerel, yellow tail, sole and bass. Of course, salmon and tuna are the most common.

Fish is wild, sweet and innocent, but it is not learned. It's either baked or boiled and never steamed. No matter what you do, you must squeeze the lemon juice in. These two ingredients never match, which is a bad habit left over from cooking stale fish.

I sometimes see trout swimming in America. It is colorful and called "rainbow trout". I am ecstatic. I bought it and steamed it. The meat is rough and tastes strange. I can't swallow my throat.

I thought there were no fish to eat. When I arrived in Holland, I saw herring sold in the street, pickled and fermented and swallowed it whole. I tried one. Ah, sweet and fat, not fishy at all. It is really delicious.

Pickling is Portugal's favorite, and Macao people call it "vest show". Sorry, I don't feel any smell. On the contrary, when we were in Portugal, everyone didn't do anything during the Sardines Festival. We celebrated with grand activities. We ate locally made sardines, which were tender and oily. It was a real treat.

When I arrived in neighboring Spain, what impressed me most was the young eels. In a clay pot, burn it red, add olive oil and a lot of garlic, cover it, turn off the fire and cook the fish. The taste is unforgettable.

On Ibiza Island, there lived a group of old hippies. They traveled all over the country and enjoyed delicious food. They settled in the local area and opened a seafood restaurant. The flounder they choose only sells the edge parts, grabs the long bones and sucks the young meat and jelly-like fish glue on the edge of the bones, which is delicious that other fish can't eat.

Scottish salmon tastes delicious after being smoked, but there is nothing to eat after being cooked or fried. Fish and chips, British fish and potatoes, can't live without this fish for a day, but I have never lived there for a long time. I don't know how to appreciate it because it is not fresh fish.

When I went to Italy, I realized that they also ate mullet roe, pickled it, dried it, crushed it and sprinkled it on spaghetti. Among mullet roe, the best quality comes from a small island in Greece. It is packaged by a famous French shop, sealed with wax and sold more expensive than gold. The French also slice the wine.

But among the caviar in the world, caviar is the most precious. Sturgeon swam into Sichuan from the sea. On the Volga River in Russia, fishermen caught giant sturgeon, namely? Belly, take out the roe without salt, so send strong vodka and eat it with your hands. Don't waste your life.

If octopus is also considered a fish, then octopus from countries around the Mediterranean is the most delicious. It is caught by iron nets and burned on charcoal. With olive oil and salt, lemon juice is indispensable. Facts have proved that it is not difficult at all. Mediterranean species are different from other species and cannot be compared. If the octopus bought in the Hong Kong market is processed in the same way, it must be as tough as chewing the sole.

Yepes fish soup eaten in Marseille seaside is completely different from other places. It is cooked with miscellaneous fish caught by fishermen in the sea that day. These varieties are unique to Marseille. Soup, don't use the word "drink", because drinking soup is only part of it, mainly eating those miscellaneous fish that are fished out of the soup, which is especially sweet.

At the seaside of Istanbul, Turkey, I saw a fishing boat selling fish. All the fish were roasted by fierce fire, and I was not afraid of the boat being burned. All kinds of fish (mainly mackerel) are roasted and sold, because they are caught on the same day, so they can still be eaten.

Back in Taiwan Province Province, their "flower strips" are the most delicious meat. It is a kind of mudskipper, which lives in mud and looks like Macao mullet, but it is ten times sweeter than it. A few rolls of shredded ginger soup are delicious, and no monosodium glutamate is needed. There is another way to eat this kind of fish, that is, roasting it on charcoal, but restaurants think it takes too much time and have gradually lost this way of eating.

The tuna sold in Tsukiji market is frozen like a big one, because the transportation time is too long, and its head and internal organs are cut off in order not to rot. But in Donggang near Kaohsiung, black tuna can be caught not far from the sea, and the internal organs are still fresh. It can be used to cook all kinds of delicious food, such as marinated fish sausage, boiled heart, steamed liver with garlic, boiled soup with fish spine, sucked bone marrow in the middle and boiled fish head. The person who likes fisheye is coke.

China's mandarin fish, mandarin fish, squid, whitefish, Wuchang fish and perch are all famous all over the world, but I don't know much about it for me, who is not from snacks to adults.