Pufferfish, people generally refer to a kind of fish with delicious meat but highly toxic. China people have a history of eating puffer fish since ancient times, but it seems that they have never been as enthusiastic as the Japanese: there are 1,5 shops serving puffer fish in Tokyo alone. The puffer fish is poisonous. Why does Japan still like eating puffer fish so much? How does Japanese puffer fish taste? What is the right way to eat puffer fish? In this issue, Dr.YOU answers for you.

1

Japanese people's history of eating puffer fish: from prohibition to opening

They have been fond of eating puffer fish for a long time, and once issued a fasting order: eating puffer fish confiscated their property and being detained

Since the Edo period, there has been a custom of eating puffer fish in Japan, but a little carelessness in thrilling dolphin meat will be the last dinner for diners. There is no antidote to the poisonous puffer fish, and the size of the needle tip is enough to kill people. So secretive, some people can't help but be tempted. Toyotomi Hideyoshi has weakened its national strength because too many warriors have died of puffer fish poison, and even issued a fasting order: eating puffer fish will even lead to confiscation of property and even detention; Today, this ban, which is still valid, has made no one in the Japanese royal family taste this delicious food.

The turning point of the ban: Ito Bowen's key bite

Later, in Meiji era, Ito Bowen, the first prime minister of Japan, ate puffer fish by chance. After eating it, Ito sighed that there was such delicious food in the world and immediately called for the lifting of the ban on puffer fish. First, the ban on eating puffer fish was lifted in Yamaguchi Prefecture. In order to commemorate this historic moment, there is a monument in front of Shimonoseki Chunfan Building to commemorate Ito Bowen's eating of puffer fish.

Eat puffer fish scientifically: formulate rules for eating puffer fish and set up a qualification certificate for puffer fish chef

Later, Japanese university professors began to study the toxicity of puffer fish, carefully studied all kinds of puffer fish, and scientifically verified the strength, properties and detoxification methods of the poison. Finally, in 1892, from Tokyo, all regions began to eat puffer fish scientifically.

In modern times, the government finally gave in. In the new food hygiene law, the rules for eating puffer fish were formulated in detail, and the examination for the qualification certificate of puffer fish chef was also set up. Only with this qualification can the chef scientifically handle their toxins according to different puffer fish before selling puffer fish. It also lists in detail which parts of puffer fish can be made and sold.

People are still poisoned by puffer fish, and "national treasure" has been poisoned

Even though detailed rules and chef qualification certificates have been formulated, people are still poisoned by puffer fish, and the most famous dolphin eater is Mitsugoro Bando, a "Japanese national treasure".

Mitsugoro Bando, the legendary kabuki player of the eighth generation, is an absolute food expert, especially fond of puffer fish, boasting that all poisons are invulnerable. On January 16th, 1975, he walked into a famous puffer fish shop with a singer and friends. After three rounds of drinking, a young director who wants to win the favor of Sakamoto suggested trying the liver of the puffer fish, which is the ultimate taste for gourmets. Four square dolphin livers, only 1.4 cm wide, were slowly handed over from Geji, flawless and crystal clear. Whether it's food or a kiss of death, no one dares to move, except Sakamoto. He sipped his lips and seemed deeply moved by the delicate and smooth touch, swallowing four pieces in a row. He died at night, and Japan was shocked.

The puffer fish Michelin-starred shop was poisoned.

Cases of poisoning in shops with complete qualification procedures are not uncommon in Japan today. Just in November 211, a poisoning incident occurred in a famous shop in Ginza, Fuzhi, which also caused great social repercussions at that time. After several months of introspection and rectification, Fuzhi reopened in early 212. Speaking of this, this Fuzhi is also a two-star Michelin star, and it has always been well evaluated. There will be such accidents, which shows that it is really a "desperate to eat puffer fish".

However, even if you are not afraid of poisoning, you should consider eating puffer fish: due to the decrease of its catch year by year, the price of puffer fish has been rising, with an average of 15, yen per piece in recent years, and the demand is still in short supply. You need to make a reservation several months in advance before you can eat it.

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How do Japanese eat puffer fish?

season of eating puffer fish

Japanese people eat puffer fish from the other side of autumn to the other side of spring, that is, from late September to late March. Especially from December to February, the puffer fish is about to enter the spawning period, and its flesh color is crystal clear and its meat quality is delicious. Every time after the New Year, Japanese diners are eager to move, and puffer fish cuisine also welcomes the most prosperous period of the year.

treatment of puffer fish

Because puffer fish is poisonous, puffer fish must go through a professional chef with the qualification certificate of puffer fish chef before eating.

what does this mean?

The treatment method of removing the lip and fin back of puffer fish, peeling and then removing the internal organs. (The toxic parts of puffer fish are mainly the liver and ovary) These treatments are very delicate, because once they are damaged, the edible parts will also carry toxins, which will affect eating.

The skin of puffer fish is tough, which is not only unique in taste, but also the material of ancient folk art.. Therefore, peeling is also a highly professional job. So on the whole, the salary of the chef who handles puffer fish should be quite high.

treated puffer fish

Interestingly, however, the examination and certification of puffer fish chef's qualification certificate are different in every county in Japan, so the chefs in this area are not recognized for going to another area for employment. In Japan, as long as the puffer fish has been processed by a certified chef, there is no need for a qualification certificate for secondary processing, so general restaurants and supermarkets will introduce some processed puffer fish to sell.

Chef's Qualification Certificate

How to eat puffer fish

Generally speaking, the fish is freshest within 4-5 hours after death, and then the meat will become stiff, which will affect the taste. The puffer fish, on the other hand, was originally firm in meat, and it would not soften until 24-36 hours after death. At this time, it is the best to eat and the smoothest in taste.

thorn (sashimi)

Of course, the first thing that must be mentioned is sashimi, which is high-class Japanese food.

not only is the skin of puffer fish chewy, but the meat of puffer fish is also very elastic when eaten raw, so it is difficult to bite it off in one bite. Therefore, when making sashimi, try to cut it as thin as rice paper and be crystal clear. This kind of swordsmanship requires not only skillful swordsmanship, but also a special "puffer fish cutter".

And the method of loading puffer fish is also very particular, which can be divided into four types: crane, chrysanthemum, peacock and peony. Each kind is pleasing to the eye and strives to enjoy it like a work of art.

Peacock Sheng

Crane Sheng

Chrysanthemum Sheng: (The skin on the left is puffer fish)

Peony Sheng

When eating, gently pick up a piece of crystal clear puffer fish meat with chopsticks and then dip it in vinegar. In addition, the puffer fish skin treated with hot water is also eaten like this.

pot (puffer fish pot)

The puffer fish pot is made by stewing puffer fish meat with kelp, vegetables and miso. Just like sashimi, it is eaten with vinegar. The boiled soup, with a little salt, is cooked with rice, which is very delicious.

Bai Zi cuisine

Well, let's talk about special places. What is Bai Zi? It's actually the testis of a male puffer fish. The spawning period from January to March is the most delicious moment, and it is also one of the most expensive dishes. Among them, barbecue, frying and cooking with tofu are all top-grade dishes.

Salt-roasted Bai Zi:

Bai Zi Tofu:

Boil and coagulate

Stew puffer fish skin, vegetables and fungus together and put it in the refrigerator. The dolphin skin will gelatinize the next day, forming instant fish jelly. It's smooth and delicious, and it's rich in flavor, which makes people appetite.

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A good puffer fish restaurant in Japan recommends

Yamataniya with mortar, and Tokyo

This store should be the only Michelin-starred puffer fish specialty store in the world. There are only 23 seats in a * * *, which is very difficult to make an appointment. If you are sitting at the counter, you can see the chef's live production.

, Osaka

Lively Osaka people like to pick out a suit of gentle clothes at Shinsaibashi, gulp down sake and enjoy the style of Xiamachi. If you want to say that the most famous puffer fish restaurant here must be. On this side of Tsutenkaku is Dotonbori's shop. You can see the big puffer fish signboard floating in the busy street from a distance. Even the menu can be made into a large board and placed directly on the side of the road, which is clear at a glance. The old shop that has been in business for more than 9 years has a variety of original puffer fish dishes, and the dolphin skin salad is a must. Scald the dolphin skin in boiling water, shrink it in ice water immediately, dip it in special sauce, it is crisp but not raw, smooth and slightly viscous, with unique colloid and sweetness, which makes people memorable.

Puffer Puffer Shop in Oita Prefecture, Kyushu

Kyushu Island is rich in land and sea products, and Miyazaki's pheasant and Saga's buffalo, while Oita Prefecture has a puffer fish that must be eaten besides the famous city flounder. If you think puffer fish is an unattainable high-class cuisine, it may change if you try it in Oita. Although it is not as famous as you and Bodzin, the carefully managed shop is neat inside and outside, but it is more approachable. In the open kitchen, the young boss of three generations is skillful in gestures and considerate in service, ranging from thin cooking and Bai Zi to eating pots and cooking miscellaneous meals. Bai Zi, the freshest roasted tiger dolphin, immediately pours out the dense white fat with chopsticks, and its taste is not lost to the top dolphin shop in Tokyo.