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How to prove the history of Shanghai with delicious food?
Shanghai snacks were recorded in the Southern Song Dynasty. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, Shanghai became a famous city in the southeast, and its production became more and more exquisite. In the Qing Dynasty, with the increasing prosperity of Shanghai's commerce, all kinds of rice-flour snacks became more abundant in season. In the late Qing Dynasty, after Shanghai was listed as a foreign trade port, it gradually absorbed the essence of local snacks, almost covering the characteristics of major places in the country, and developed and perfected it to form its own characteristics. Shanghai snacks are characterized by diverse tastes, both north and south; Strict material selection and fine production; It should be seasonal and change with time; The supply is convenient and flexible.

Crab shell yellow

Pastry with skin and stuffing is made by adding oil to fermented noodles. This cake is similar in color and shape to the cooked crab shell. The finished product is brown, crisp, loose and fragrant. In early Shanghai, most teahouses and tiger stoves (boiled water franchise stores) had a vertical dryer and a frying pan stove, which sold two kinds of snacks-crab shell yellow and fried steamed bread while cooking. Crab shell is yellow and crisp, and the fried steamed bread is fresh and tender, which is very popular among tea drinkers. In the late 1930s, franchise stores, such as Huangjiasha, Dahuchun and Wuyuan, sold these two varieties separately and became famous for a while.

Jujube paste shortcake

It is a kind of cooked pasta with crispy noodles as the skin and black jujube paste as the filling. Its golden color, small and exquisite, crispy skin and sweet and delicious stuffing are deeply loved by compatriots in Hong Kong, Macao and Japan. 1988 won the silver prize in the second national cooking competition.

Fried steamed bread

Shanghai calls steamed buns steamed buns, so fried steamed buns are the real fried steamed buns. Use semi-fermented bread stuffing, put it in a pot, fry it in oil, and spray water several times to cook it. Its bottom is golden yellow, hard and fragrant, crisp, steamed bread is white, soft and loose, the meat is fresh and tender, with a little marinade, and it smells like sesame or onion when chewed. It's better to eat while it's hot. Fried steamed bread was originally a variety of tea houses and tiger stoves (boiled water shops). The stuffing is mainly fresh pork with jelly. After the 1930s, Shanghai catering industry introduced the store of raw-fried steamed bread, and many varieties such as chicken and shrimp were added to the stuffing.

Steamed cold noodles

It is a kind of pasta that is steamed first, then boiled, then cooled with cold air, and then mixed with seasoning. Cold noodles have always been a hot-selling variety in Shanghai food market in summer. Before and after 1937, the noodles were cooked and washed in cold water. After 1949, the health department banned the sale of cold noodles because they were washed with raw water. 1952, siruchun dessert shop adopted the method of steaming noodles first, then cooking noodles, and then cooling them with cold air, which was successful. Not only does it meet the hygiene requirements, but also the processed noodles are hard, tough and slippery, which are well received by customers.

Plain noodle soup

Also known as smooth surface. Folklore calls October of the lunar calendar Xiaoyangchun, and Shanghai slang takes ten as Yangchun. In the past, this kind of noodles sold for ten pence per bowl, so it was called Yangchun noodles. Kaiyang onion oil noodles, also known as laver onion oil noodles. Stir-fried with scallion oil and thoroughly cooked dried seaweed (known as Kaiyang in Shanghai) and cooked noodles. Noodles are tough and smooth, dried seaweed is soft and delicious, and scallion oil is fragrant. After 1945, there was a vendor named Chen in the Chenghuang Temple who cooked noodles with scallion oil according to the daily practice of his hometown in northern Jiangsu. Onion has a strong and unique fragrance, which is very popular and has been passed down to this day. Now it is the specialty snack of lakeside snack bar.

Baiguoxian

Fermented rice wine dumplings

It is made of fruit, glutinous rice flour and fermented grains. The wine is rich and sweet, with glutinous dumplings and sweet fillings.

Ginkgo lard

sponge cake

It is made by mixing glutinous rice and japonica rice, grinding into powder, adding red beans and fruit materials, and steaming. Seasonal rice for the old year and the new year. The cake is soft and sweet, waxy but not sticky, and the nuts have various tastes.

Youwa sparerib

New Year cake; rice cake

Pork chops with small and thin rice cakes are cooked in oil. There are two ways to make this snack in Shanghai, namely Shuguang Hotel (formerly known as Xiao Changzhou, known as the king of ribs) and Lai Xiande Dim Sum Restaurant. Both of them are famous for their pork ribs rice cakes, but they are famous in Shanghai in the early 1930s because of their different production methods, tastes and characteristics. Rib rice cake is an economical and unique snack in Shanghai, which has a history of more than 50 years. There are two kinds of famous ribs rice cakes in Shanghai-"Little Changzhou" and "Rare". "Little Changzhou" ribs rice cake is made of pig spines from Changzhou and Wuxi. After pickling with soy sauce, put it into an oil pan mixed with soy sauce, oil, sugar, minced onion and ginger, wine, etc. Take it out when the color is purple, the meat is fresh and tender, and the taste is rich. At the same time, after Songjiang rice is cooked, it is put into a stone mortar and beaten repeatedly with a hammer. Beat until the rice is not whole, take it out, cut 20 pieces every 500 grams, wrap a small piece of blanched pork ribs in each piece, and then cook it in a soy sauce pot. When you eat it, sprinkle with spiced powder, which will not only have the fragrance of ribs, but also have the soft and crispy rice cake, which is very delicious. The "fresh" pork ribs rice cake is made by mixing flour, water chestnut, allspice powder and eggs, soaking them on the surface of pork ribs and blanching them with oil. This kind of ribs is golden in color, crispy in skin and tender in meat. At the same time, add sweet noodle sauce to Songjiang rice, red soy sauce and ribs, and drizzle with Chili sauce. The entrance glutinous rice is fragrant, slightly sweet and spicy, fresh and palatable. Shanghai Shuguang Hotel's "Little Changzhou" ribs rice cake and "Rare" snack bar are the most distinctive.

Fresh meat Maoerduo

Traditional cat ears are made of cold water and flour, and the ingredients are diced chicken and diced meat, as well as soup. The cat ears of Qiaojiazha Gate in Shanghai are very unique. They are made of handmade noodles, wrapped in meat stuffing or bean paste, and then fried in oil. They have a unique taste.

snail

Shanghai's bad snails are famous specialty snacks. This snack is made of a big, fat and fleshy longan snail produced in Tunxi County, Anhui Province. After entering the store, raise it with clear water for two days to spit out the sediment, then put it in the pot, add fennel and cinnamon and cook for a long time. Finally, put the cooked snail on the aged grain, and the grain will be served. This kind of bad snail is brownish gray, fresh and tender in meat, mellow in juice, delicious in mouth and very popular. This food is a famous specialty snack of Shanghai Wuweizhai Tea Restaurant and Lai Xiande Tea Restaurant.

Xiao Shaoxing chicken porridge

The chicken porridge operated by Shaoxing Chicken Porridge Store is an authentic Shanghai-style snack. The shop was founded by a Shaoxing man on 1947. Because the founders and main operators are Shaoxing people, a world of small Shaoxing people has formed here, so people named it "Little Shaoxing Chicken Porridge Shop". Shaoxing chicken porridge is a snack cooked with chicken soup, accompanied by chicken and various seasonings. When eating chicken porridge, cut the cooked chicken into pieces 3 cm long and 0.6 cm wide, put it on a plate, put the chicken porridge in a bowl, add onion, Jiang Mo and chicken oil, and eat together. At this time, the chicken porridge is yellow with green, and the chicken is white and bright, which is pleasing to the eye and greatly increases the appetite. When tasting, the chicken porridge is sticky, fresh and delicious, and the chicken is tender and refreshing, rich in nutrition, and the more you eat, the more fragrant it becomes. This delicious food is operated by Shanghai Xiao Shaoxing Chicken Porridge Shop.

Nanxiang steamed mantou

Nanxiang steamed bread, also known as Nanxiang steamed buns, is a traditional snack in nanxiang town, a suburb of Shanghai, with a history of 100 years. This product is famous for its thin skin, rich stuffing, heavy brine and delicious taste, and it is one of the flavor snacks welcomed by customers at home and abroad. The stuffing of Nanxiang steamed bread is made of sandwich leg meat, with no onion and garlic, only a little Jiang Mo, frozen skin, salt, soy sauce, sugar and water sprinkled. The skin of steamed bread is made of unfermented refined flour, 50 grams of flour can be wrapped in 8 pieces, and 100 grams is a steamer. Steamed steamed buns are small and exquisite, shaped like pagodas, translucent and firm, glittering and translucent and yellow, and you will drool when you bite a bag of soup. It will taste better if it is served with shredded ginger, balsamic vinegar and a bowl of shredded chicken and egg soup. The stuffing of Nanxiang steamed buns can also change with the seasons. Shrimp is added in early summer, and crab meat, crab roe and crab oil are added in autumn. Nanxiang steamed bread in Yuyuan Shopping Mall is one of the famous snacks in Yuyuan Shopping Mall.

You Mei mantou

Fu You steamed bread is a special snack made by Shen Zao Dacheng Dim Sum Restaurant, a century-old Shanghai store. The oily steamed bread in this shop has absorbed many people's strengths: the steamed bread skin is made of Nanxiang steamed bread, rolled with unfermented fine powder, and the stuffing is Huaiyang boutique soup packets. Meat is mixed with bone soup, and seasonings made of onion, ginger and garlic are mixed. When frying, shortbread is similar to shortbread. This carefully processed steamed bread has a small and exquisite shape, golden skin, bright color, crisp entrance, fresh and tender meat, overflowing soup, fat but not greasy. After eating, my teeth and cheeks are fragrant and my mouth is full of saliva. Eat it while it's hot, and it's memorable.

Kaiyang onion oil noodles

Kaiyang scallion noodles are a famous snack in Shanghai. Kaiyang is very particular about the method of making scallion noodles. First of all, it cuts the scallion inch by inch and fries it in a warm oil pan (the scallion oil cooked in this way is dark red, yellow in color and rich in scallion flavor, which can increase appetite). Then add onion oil to Kaiyang, which is fried with vegetable oil and soaked with wine and sugar, to make onion oil. Cook the noodles, drain the soup and mix with onion oil, which is Kaiyang onion oil noodles. This kind of noodles is bright in color, smooth and refreshing to eat, fragrant with shrimp and scallions, rich in nutrition and very popular. Kaiyang chopped green onion noodle is a special snack in Shanghai Hubin Dim Sum Restaurant, and it is also one of the famous snacks in Chenghuang Temple.

Vegetables steamed bun

Su Bao is a special snack vegetarian restaurant in Yuelou, Fengchun, Shanghai. This restaurant has a history of more than 70 years. This is a vegetarian restaurant that combines Beijing cuisine, Jiangsu cuisine and Yangbang cuisine, and also has the local flavor of Shanghai. The vegetarian dishes in this store, such as jambalaya, fried mushrooms, Luohanzhai, crispy soup of mushrooms, fried crab powder and gluten noodles, are quite famous in Shanghai, especially the vegetarian dishes made in this store are very famous and popular. Su Bao takes refined white flour as the skin, and the stuffing is chopped green vegetables, gluten, mushrooms, winter bamboo shoots and spiced dried bean curd, mixed with spices such as sesame oil and sugar. After the wrapped vegetarian dishes are steamed, the skin is white and the meat is soft, and the stuffing is green, bright and pleasing to the eye. Open the cage, the house is fragrant, and the food is delicious and refreshing. Eat more, and you will never get tired of eating. This snack can be tasted at Feng Chunsong Yuelou vegetarian restaurant in Shanghai Yuyuan Shopping Center.

Leishayuan

Shayuan is one of the famous flavor spots of Qiaojiazha Dim Sum Restaurant in Shanghai, which has a history of more than 70 years. According to legend, at the end of Qing Dynasty, an old lady named Lei lived in Sanpailou, Shanghai. In order to make jiaozi easy to store and carry, she pioneered the method of rolling white powder on the surface of cooked jiaozi. In order to commemorate her, later generations named Zongzi as a sand rolling ball. The sand-grinding balls operated by Qiaojiazha Dim Sum Shop are made by cooking red beans in Dahongpao, Chongming County, grinding them into sand and drying them into purple powder. Then the dumplings filled with fresh meat, bean paste and sesame seeds are cooked, drained and rolled with a layer of bean paste powder. This kind of jiaozi has bright colors, strong fragrance, strong red bean flavor when it is hot, soft and delicious, and easy to carry, and has always been popular with tourists.

Shanghai linong steamed fried-dumpling

When it comes to dim sum in Shanghai, people always think of the famous four donkey kong-fried dough sticks, cakes, rice and soybean milk. But the stars have changed, and now these titles should give way to two other great sages-Long Xiao and Fried. On the streets of Shanghai, you can easily see small cages and fried characters.

About the origin of Xiaolong, I copied the introduction on the website of Guyiyuan. "Nanxiang Xiaolong is famous at home and abroad, with a history of one hundred years." It was originally named "Nanxiang Big Meat Steamed Bread", then "Guyi Yuan Xiao Dragon", and now it is called "Nanxiang Xiao Long". Its fame has become an ancient garden, but it is little known. In the tenth year of Tongzhi in Qing Dynasty (A.D. 187 1 year), Huang Mingxian, the owner of Huaxuan Pastry Group in Shangri-La, nanxiang town, changed his business to Nanxiang Big Steamed Bread, and sold it in Guyiyuan every day, which was famous for its delicious taste and popularity. The bosses of the same trade came to Guyi Garden to sell big meat steamed buns, which affected the business in Huang Mingxian, so they could not be patented by one person. So he adopted the method of "heavy stuffing and thin skin, making it big and small", and selected refined white flour to roll it into thin skin. With lean meat as stuffing, without monosodium glutamate, the skin is cooked in chicken soup, frozen and mixed in, fresh, and sprinkled with a small amount of finely ground sesame seeds to get its fragrance; According to different seasons, crab powder or Chun Zhu, shrimp and meat stuffing are also acceptable. Each steamed bread is stacked with more than fourteen pieces, ten pieces with one or two flours, translucent, small and exquisite. When you come out of the cage, you can take any one and put it in a small dish. The skin is punctured, and a dish full of juice is the best. It gradually forms the characteristics of thin skin, fresh juice, tender meat and much stuffing, and becomes a delicious spot exclusively sold in the ancient garden, which is called "Nanxiang Xiaolong in the ancient garden". "There are also many snacks similar to Shanghai steamed buns all over the country. The famous ones are Goubuli steamed buns in Tianjin, Jia's soup-filling buns in Ann and steamed buns in Kaifeng. But relatively speaking, Shanghai's steamed buns are among the best. Because of Shanghai's geographical location, its taste can be accepted by both north and south.

As for fried food, it seems impossible to verify it, but I vaguely remember that there was a famous fried food store on Haining Road, Sichuan Road when I was a child. At that time, his price list said Danyang fried food (Danyang is located in Jiangsu Province, about an hour's drive from Nanjing). As for whether Danyang is the origin of fried food, I'm not sure. To do a good job of frying, we must achieve three elements: crisp golden bottom, soft skin, and a sauce-flavored bite.

It seems that steamed bread and fried steamed bread are very similar, but they are not. Looking at snack bars in Shanghai, there are few shops that can make steamed buns and fried buns at the same time. So many stores are also very self-aware. Basically, it is rare to see a snack bar selling these two kinds of snacks at the same time. Because if you are not careful, it will be made into fried dumplings or steamed buns. The first is noodles. Generally, there is no need to send the noodles of the small cage, because the pores will be opened when steaming, which will affect the appearance of the small cage and the soup, and there is no room for difference. On the contrary, skin frying and raw eating are very particular. Generally, an experienced master is needed to master the time of making dough. Generally speaking, it is two hours. Neither too early nor too late. If it is too early, the skin is neither soft nor hard. If you eat late, you will have the sour taste produced during fermentation. Although we put vinegar when eating raw fried food, the sour taste is different. The second is meat. It is possible that some diners think that the method of making small cages and frying them raw is actually different, and the stuffing is still the same. In fact, the biggest difference is that the stuffing in the small cage is fresh, the soup is thick, and there is some smell of gravy. Besides, the soup steamed in a small cage can't penetrate into the skin, so the soup should be wrapped in a bag, and the fragrance of the soup will stay in the meat, and it will slowly seep out when it goes down. The stuffing in the frying pan will have delicious sauce, because the skin in the frying pan is small and the cage is a little thick.

From 1930s: Red House Western Restaurant

The red house is the representative of the "old" Shanghai western restaurant, which is said to be the first western restaurant in Shanghai! Foreigners who have lived in Shanghai before know that many "petty bourgeoisie" with grandparents have become attached to western food here. Very suitable for the nostalgic older generation.