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With thousands of years of snow and tens of thousands of pines, it reaches the highest peak in the world. Why is Changbai Mountain the highest mountain in the Northeast?

Changbai Mountain, where the clouds and mist are steaming, is the dream destination of countless Northeastern people. Photography/Chang Jianru

-Feng Wu Jun Yu -

Changbai Mountain, Hainan Island

The spiritual home of Northeastern people

The mountains in the Northeast, Most of them have a very down-to-earth name, such as:

Eagle-billed Lazi, Big Bald-headed Man, Old Bald-headed Man, Chimney Lala-zi, Three-Balded Man... with their own Northeastern accent and sense of humor.

However, the painting style of one mountain changed. With a fairy-like attitude, it fluttered in the northeast as if it were independent from the world. She is the "Northeast Roof":

Changbai Mountain

Looking far into the distance, Changbai Mountain is covered in silver in winter.

In "The Classic of Mountains and Seas", she is called "Buxian Mountain", which is as white as salt and as salty as without salt. In the Wei and Jin Dynasties, it was "Tutai Mountain", and in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, it was "Taibai Mountain". She is the "holy mountain" of all ethnic groups in the Northeast and the birthplace of the Manchus in mythology. She is also the gatekeeper of Wu Xie and Zhang Qiling's "ten-year agreement" in "Tomb Robbers Notes".

Changbai Mountain is covered with snow and shrouded in clouds and mist all year round. Like an elder in white, he is always solemn and solemn. Today, people also give a romantic explanation to the name of Changbai Mountain: stay together till the end of time.

In the Changbai Mountains, the waterfall falls like a white stream. Photography/Wen Jialin

However, Changbai Mountain in the long history is not just "white". As a volcano, when it erupted frequently in ancient times, it turned the entire Northeast into another color. Nowadays, the traces of the volcano are gradually fading. She is silently looking down at the world while she is dormant, and she is nurturing the land under her feet in various ways.

Wind and snow glaciers cut out rugged mountain tops, and in summer the hillsides are covered with flowers. Photography/Chang Jianru

On the one hand, she "melts ice and fire", integrating the two wonders of snow mountains and volcanoes; on the other hand, she "creates mountains and waters" to nourish the three rivers, turning the Northeast into a water town in the North; on the other hand, she "gives birth to souls" to keep it intact The forest ecology nurtures precious animals and plants; on the one hand, it "encourages millions of people", the glacial snow water and underground mineral springs here nourish countless creatures.

Fishermen in Ji'an City, at the southern foot of Changbai Mountain, are casting nets for fishing. Picture/Qiu Huining

“White mountains and black waters” feed this fertile land in Guandong. Changbai Mountain is not only the "geographic and cultural origin" in the hearts of Northeastern people, but the countless charming stories surrounding her majestic body are also enough to define the Northeast.

01

Melting Ice and Fire: Snow Mountain on one side, volcano on the other

The vast forest sea and snowfield, covered in silver, is people’s first impression of Changbai Mountain, probably It is also the first impression of the Northeast for outsiders.

At the foot of Changbai Mountain, there is a deep forest covered with snow. Picture/Visual China

The high-altitude, high-latitude Changbai Mountains are still in the meeting zone between the warm and humid air currents from the Sea of ??Japan and the cold currents from Siberia, making it rainy and snowy, with the snow cover period lasting up to 9 months. moon. As soon as the beginning of summer passes in May, most areas across the country are putting on summer clothes, but the top of Changbai Mountain is still covered with snow. The "rime landscape" that can only be formed under low temperature and sufficient water vapor conditions can also be seen everywhere.

In the winter, the snow-covered Changbai Mountains look extremely sacred. The brush and ink of nature generously leave blank spaces in this landscape painting.

After winter, the top of Changbai Mountain is beautiful in black and white. Photography/Wang Yu

However, the fairy-like "white clothes" are not all of Changbai Mountain. She also has a burning "heart". As a complex active volcano, its original appearance was filled with smoke and lava. In ancient times, the entire northeastern land was burned, leaving behind a large volcanic geological structure. The last eruption of Changbai Mountain was about 300 years ago, and it has been silent since then.

A rock wall that has become barren of vegetation after a volcanic eruption. Photography/Zuo Ximing

Climbing to the top of Changbai Mountain, the towering volcanic cone pierces the sky, surrounded by volcanic gravel and pumice that have collapsed after the weathering of volcanic lava. The rock walls of the crater are gray, white and yellow in alternating colors, shaped like saw teeth.

Magma once flowed on the hillside, and today's deep valleys and ravines are remnants of glacial erosion.

Towering volcanic cones surround Tianchi. Photography/Wang Yu

The "Ice and Fire" intertwined volcanoes and snow-capped mountains have both shaped the unique scenery of Changbai Mountain today.

02

The mountains and rivers of Liaoning, Jilin, and Xuelongjiang in the three eastern provinces are protected by the same giant. That is Changbai Mountain, which is much larger than what we usually realize. .

The Changbai Mountains are the "city wall" dominating the eastern part of the northeast, and the Changbai Mountain Nature Reserve is located at the core. Cartography/monk

In a narrow sense, Changbai Mountain refers to the main peaks and main veins of the Changbai Mountains; in a broad sense, Changbai Mountain starts from Wanda Mountain on the bank of the Wusuli River in the north and reaches Lao Mountain in the south on the coast of the Bohai Sea. Tieshan is the entire Changbai Mountain system that stretches for more than 1,300 kilometers.

Along the Songhua River, there is endless flat farmland as far as the eye can see. Photography/Chang Jianru

This huge mountain system is entrenched in the east of the Northeast. Together with the Greater Khingan Mountains in the west and the Lesser Khingan Mountains in the north, it surrounds the Northeast into a horseshoe-shaped city wall and breeds many rivers in the Northeast. The Tumen River and the Yalu River rush out here and become the "moat" in the east of Northeast China. The Songhua River also connects 80% of the lakes in Jilin. Especially when it meets the Nen River in the northwest of Jilin, many tributaries converge towards the center, making this area full of marshes and becoming one of the areas with the highest density of lakes in the country. A veritable "Northeast Water Town" has been formed.

There are many bubbles in the water town of Jilin. Cartography/monk

In addition to rivers, volcanic activity also formed numerous volcanic lakes. Tianchi is the most spectacular scenery left by the volcanic eruption of Changbai Mountain.

Snowy scenery of Tianchi in Changbai Mountain.

Climbing up the steep road with nine twists and turns, when you approach the top of the mountain, your vision suddenly opens up. "The peak comes out of the flat lake." As far as the eye can see, there is a flat lake. Tianchi is the largest crater lake in China and the deepest lake in China. Although the area is less than 1/200 of Taihu Lake, the deepest point reaches 373 meters and stores 2 billion cubic meters of fresh water, which is equivalent to half of Taihu Lake. The sixteen peaks surrounding it lift Tianchi to an altitude of 2,180 meters.

You can see the Tianchi Lake at a glance, but you can’t see it to the end. Photography/810 and my story, picture/Tu Chong·Creativity

Overlooking the city wall of Changbai Mountain, Changbai Mountain in the narrow sense is at the core, like a towering beacon towering into the clouds. With its rich and complete primitive forest form, it regulates the ecological climate of Northeast China.

In summer, this "beacon tower" sheds its white clothes, and abundant rain and snow make the short summer in Changbai Mountain particularly exciting. After the ice and snow melt, the mountains have deep vegetation and rushing water. From the foot of the mountain to the top of the mountain, different altitudes have very different beautiful scenery. It can be said that "one mountain is divided into four seasons, and the weather is different ten miles away."

As the altitude increases, the vegetation shows an obvious vertical distribution. "A mountain is divided into four seasons, and the weather is different ten miles away." Picture/Visual China

In the forest-free zone above 2,100 meters above sea level, the average temperature is no higher than 10 degrees Celsius, but the coldness does not isolate life. When the ice and snow melt, there are still colorful flowers everywhere in the wind. sway. This is a rare mountain tundra landscape that appears in this "Arctic enclave."

In summer, the mountain tundra near the top of Changbai Mountain is filled with flowers. Picture/Visual China

03

Breeding Spirits: The Forest Story of Changbai Mountain

In the eyes of the mountain people in Northeast China, Changbai Mountain does not just represent a mountain, Tianchi, or forest. A simple combination of these images. Changbai Mountain is alive, like a huge life form, nurturing many lives with unlimited energy.

Under the silent forest sea covered with snow, there is a vitality. Photography/Zhang Xiaoping

During the Qing Dynasty, the mountains and forests were closed, making this one of the few natural areas strictly protected by the central government in ancient China. This letter was issued in 216. Therefore, the Changbai Mountain forest has a rare "uninhabited primitive state", and it has become a paradise for birds and animals.

The diverse ecological environment allows various animals on water, land and air to reproduce and reproduce in Changbai Mountain.

In this snowy forest, there are known to be 1,588 species of wild animals and 2,806 species of wild plants. Many of them are basically extinct elsewhere, but they thrive in Changbai Mountain.

There are Chinese Mergansers here that are as precious as giant pandas. They can only survive in unpolluted forest streams and are therefore regarded as important symbol animals of environmental indicators. They have found their best habitat in Changbai Mountain. Suitable for your own home.

Changbai Mountain is the unique home for humans and all wild animals.

There are almost disappeared wild Siberian tigers hiding deep in the dense forests; there are also "Five Eyebrows" chipmunks and sparrow hawks... living freely among the mountains, forests and streams.

Summer snowmelt and rain nourish lush woodland vegetation at lower elevations. In Changbai Mountain, trees fell like whales, and the decayed trees merged into the soil and became the cradle of rare plants, such as the Chinese fungus Ganoderma lucidum and the Hericium mushroom shaped like a monkey's head. In Changbai Mountain, mushrooms can be seen everywhere, and many wild hazel mushrooms, matsutake mushrooms, Yuan mushrooms, Yuhuang mushrooms, etc. can always be seen on Bangchai trees.

Ancient trees can be seen everywhere in the Changbai Mountain forest area. Photography/Chen Yan

These mushrooms are nourished by Changbai Mountain and also nourish the mountain people who rely on the mountains to eat. During the mushroom picking season, there are piles of mushrooms drying in the courtyards and roofs of mountain homes. If guests come, soak the mushrooms and prepare a meal called "Chicken Stewed with Mushrooms", which is a must-have delicacy for entertaining guests in Northeast China.

04

Ze Wanmin: Ice and snow melt into the source of life

Snow is the soul of Changbai Mountain.

For our ancestors, the snow here is a mountain sacred object that can only be seen from a distance; for animals and plants, the snow here is an excellent thermal insulation warehouse in the cold wind. And every summer, the snow in Changbai Mountain melts into water, nourishing all living things.

Under the white snow, the river never stops flowing. Picture/Visual China

Changbai Mountain’s glacial snow water and underground mineral springs also support countless hot springs and cold springs in the surrounding area. The coexistence of hot and cold is the symphony of "ice" and "fire" in Changbai Mountain.

Changbai Mountain, as a volcano, uses underground magma to heat groundwater to increase the temperature. Therefore, many hot springs around Changbai Mountain boil all year round, with temperatures close to 90 degrees Celsius. The "hot spring eggs" cooked in hot springs have cooked egg yolks but not solidified egg whites. , is a famous specialty of Changbai Mountain.

The melting ice and snow in Changbai Mountain will go through a long cycle.

Near the hot springs, there is also a natural low-temperature spring with a large and stable water output, which is also a cold mineral spring. It maintains a low temperature of 7 degrees all year round. It is as cold as snow but does not freeze all year round. How did this come about?

After 270 days of ice and snow coverage, in April and May every year, when the 2-meter-thick snow begins to melt, the melting water in the snow-capped mountains will go through a cycle that lasts 30 to 60 years. First, it continuously penetrates, filters, and migrates underground until it encounters a water-blocking fault or rock mass, and then accumulates nearby. Until the mountain rocks give a huge pressure, the spring water gushes out from the gaps again, and is "reborn."

Melted ice and snow water rushing down from Changbai Mountain. Photography/Heidelberg Graphic Design, Picture/Picture Chong·Creativity

In this process, the volcanic pumice, olive basalt and volcanic ash in the forest ecology form a natural "filter element", making the spring water healthy, pure and pollution-free. As it flows in the rock formations, snow water continuously dissolves mineral elements, gradually enriching elements such as silica in the water. Water with high metasilicic acid content tastes soft and slightly sweet. What's even more rare is that carbon dioxide and water form an "endothermic reaction" under unique geological conditions, allowing the snowmelt water in Changbai Mountain to remain cool at 7 degrees Celsius all year round.

After a new upgrade of water source, water quality and packaging, Nongfu Spring has launched a super new product - Nongfu Spring Changbai Snow·Natural Snow Mountain Mineral Water.

Changbai Snow originates from the Lushuihe National Forest Park at the northern foot of Changbai Mountain. The entire Changbai Mountain primeval forest is its water supply area. Less than 60 kilometers away from Tianchi, a rare metasilicic acid-type self-emerging cold mineral spring was born, bringing the taste of soft snowflakes in the Changbai Mountain forest, which is clear, light and slightly sweet.

In terms of packaging, Changbaixue adheres to the ecological concept and conveys awe of nature and respect for life. There are only four personalized packaging: Siberian tiger, chipmunk, and Chinese merganser. , sparrow hawk, four wild animals. Through their bodies, you can see the original and pure mountains, forests, springs and snow. This is the "Changbai Snow" in the eyes of rare wild animals in Changbai Mountain.

In Changbai Mountain, what kind of water source breeds what kind of life. Only water sources under good ecological environment and located in healthy forest ecosystems are vital water.

Between the "white mountains and black waters", countless fresh and flexible lives are nurtured, inhabited and grown here. A long white snow brings life and benefits all people.