The word "foodie" always sounds a bit unpleasant to people, but it is not as good as the "foodie" of Kaifeng people. Foodies always remind people of people who like to eat and are lazy, but foodies suddenly took their level up. Yes, writers, painters, singers... A gourmet is a big player who can eat, knows how to eat, eats well, can afford to eat, and can eat well, just like the superb skills of Peking Opera enthusiasts. In this way, the term "Chia Jia" can be regarded as a certain honorific.
If Confucius was a gourmet, Su Shi was a big gourmet.
Su Shi's ancestral home was Meishan, Sichuan. Due to his work, he moved around the country and tasted cuisines from all over the world. He wrote many poems reflecting the famous delicacies, such as "Vegetable Soup" and "Pork Eating Poem" , "Bean Porridge", etc., as well as the famous "Lao Tao Fu". In his poems, he regarded himself as a gourmet, which vividly reflected his strong interest in cooking and his rich experience in tasting delicious food. He could be called a gourmet among ancient writers.
As we all know, during the period when he was demoted to Huangzhou, Su Shi was still managing politics, reading, and exploring. He once wrote a poem about eating pork, explaining his experience and state of mind at that time: "The good pork in Huangzhou is as cheap as dirt. The rich refuse to eat it, and the poor don't know how to cook it. Slow down the fire, use less water, and keep the heat It's beautiful when it's full. Get up and have a bowl every day, and you won't care if you're full." Only when the ingredients are given a humanistic flavor can they be spread for a long time. Su Shi's reputation is certainly worthy of the cheap pork, and Su Shi's unique stew method. The people were very happy to be favored by people, so they named it "Dongpo Meat" after him. Of course, the meat they ate was not Su Shi's meat. Nowadays, this dish can be eaten all over the country, but I don’t know which one is the authentic one.
There is another saying about "Dongpo Pork". It is said that when Su Shi was in Hangzhou, he renovated the West Lake and mobilized tens of thousands of migrant workers to remove weeds, dredge the lake mud, and pile up the mud into a dike, which was later known as Su Di. It not only prevents West Lake from being silted up, but also improves the water quality of West Lake. The next year, the people around West Lake had a great harvest. In order to thank Su Shi, they brought wine and meat to his house. Su Shi couldn't refuse, so he asked the chef to cut the pork into pieces, add cooking wine, ginger, green onions, soy sauce, and brown sugar, simmer it over a slow fire until it was tender and crispy, and then sent each household a piece of meat.
After tasting it, the people thought it was delicious, fat but not greasy, and called it "Dongpo Pork".
Dongpo soup is actually porridge made from wild shepherd's purse and rice grits. This kind of porridge is both delicious and healthy. Su Dongpo's letter to his friend Xu Twelve said in detail: "Today's shepherd's purse is very delicious. I miss you because I am ill. Noodles, vinegar, and wine are all out of reach. Only the natural treasures are not inferior to the five flavors, but they have beauty beyond the taste... ...If you know this taste, you will despise it as a delicacy. It is a natural thing. It is thought that people living in the mountains are rich, so it should not be neglected. "Shepherd's purse is delicious as a vegetable." Su Shi wrote a very interesting poem: "When I went around the wheat fields to ask for wild shepherds, I forced myself to cook mountain soup for the monks." He invented a kind of porridge cooked with shepherd's purse and rice grits, and later people called it "Dongpo". "Soup", the specific preparation method is as follows: "Take about one or two liters of shepherd's purse, select it cleanly, add three liters of washed rice, three liters of cold water, unpeeled ginger, use a mallet as big as two fingers, and put them into the cauldron. Pour in a clam shell with raw oil, and when Don't touch it on the surface of the soup, otherwise it will produce oil and gas. Do not add salt or vinegar."
Lu You once cooked Dongpo soup and wrote a poem titled "Eating Chestnut Grits." It is so beautiful that people in Shu call it Dongpo Soup: "The shepherd's purse grits are fragrant and sweet, and you feel as if you are in Emin when you sip them. The watermelon soup with black soy sauce is hard to beat, and the milk is so crispy that it is not precious. The peculiar smell makes me think about repairing the pure offering, The secret recipe is often taught to cooks. It is good to live in Yancun and not be tired of poverty. "
In fact, "Dongpo Soup" is not just "sheep grits", there is also "Dongpo Soup". "Jade Grits Soup" uses potato as the main raw material. When Su Shi wrote about this soup, he said: "Guozi suddenly came up with a new idea. He used potato to make jade glutinous rice soup. The color, aroma and taste are all extraordinary. The crispy soup in the sky is not as good as the taste on earth." He also wrote a poem to praise it: "The fragrance is like this." The ambergris is still white, and its taste is as clear as milk. Don’t compare it to the Dongpo Jade Grit Soup. The "Jin Yu Jiao" mentioned in the poem is a famous dish in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, also known as "Songjiang Perch Rice". , made from seabass as raw material, with fragrant flowers and leaves. The method is as follows: During the frost season in August and September, select seabass less than three feet tall, slaughter and clean it, finely cut the meat into shreds, soak it in the sauce to add flavor, then wrap it in a cloth to squeeze out the water, and scatter it on a plate. . Take the other fragrant flowers and leaves, cut them into thin strips, put them on the fish dumpling plate and mix them evenly with the fish dumplings. After frost, the meat is as white as snow and not fishy. This dish has "purple flowers and green leaves, with vegetables in between, which is fresh and beautiful". It is called Jinyuyu. It was still a famous dish until the Tang, Five Dynasties and Song Dynasties. Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty thought this dish was a delicacy in Southeast Asia, but Su Shi thought it was not as good as "Jade Grits Soup".
Another specialty dish of Su Shi is "Celery sprouts and dove meat", which is made from winter "snowflake celery" and turtle dove meat mixed with other ingredients and then cooked carefully. The third poem of "Eight Poems of Dongpo" says: "The mud celery has perennial roots, and an inch of it is alone. When the snow buds move, the spring doves can eat them." Note: "Sichuan people value celery buds and dove meat." "For that reason." The flavor of poultry and the flavor of celery make this dish extremely delicious.
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