The planting method is as follows:
Step 1: Cut off a pineapple head.
Step 2: Prepare to plant crown buds.
The so-called crown bud is the top part of pineapple fruit, which is the most nutritious, so it is the most suitable for planting! Some people will buy crown buds cut from pineapple stalls to plant. To cut the crown bud, cut the knife at the junction without leaving any pulp. You will see dots on the cut surface, which are roots, and roots will grow from these places in the future.
Step 3: Crown bud and rooting promotion.
Hang the crown bud on the bottle mouth, as close as possible to the water surface but avoid contact. If directly immersed in water, there is a danger of decay. During this period, do a good job of moisturizing and avoid the sun.
The fourth part: transplanting crown buds.
When the root grows to 0.5cm, it is ready to be transplanted into the earthen pot. Always keep the soil slightly moist, but don't be wet (which will promote decay) or dry. It takes six to eight weeks for the stem to really grow strong roots. Don't be impatient in this process, and avoid frequent watering and fertilization.
Second, note: pineapple heads are not suitable for direct sunlight, and the soil has a wide range of adaptability, but they are not suitable for neutral or alkaline soil, sticky or unstructured silt, and the pH is required to be 5-6. The place where the annual rainfall is more than 1000- 1500mm and the precipitation time distribution is relatively uniform (the monthly rainfall is 100mm) is more suitable for pineapple growth. The groundwater level of 30-50 cm is beneficial to root growth.
3. After survival of field planting at seedling stage, topdressing outside the roots with 0.3% urea and 1% potassium chloride leaching solution for 2-3 times; Apply 1 time in the spring and autumn of the following year, and apply urea 15 kg, ternary compound fertilizer 10 kg, magnesium sulfate10.5 kg and zinc sulfate 0.5 kg per mu each time.
4. When the plant heart is "red" and the inflorescence is differentiated and developed at the fruiting stage, timely pre-flowering fertilizer is applied, and 800 kg of decomposed chicken manure, 0.5 kg of urea/kloc-,0.5 kg of potassium chloride/kloc-,0.5 kg of magnesium sulfate/kloc-and 0.5 kg of zinc sulfate are applied per mu, which can increase the inflorescence, increase the number of florets and increase the fruit. Fertilize the fruits in time after picking, with 500 kilograms of burnt soil, 700 kilograms of decomposed chicken manure, urea 15 kilograms and ternary compound fertilizer 10 kilograms per mu to restore the tree vigor, promote the growth of sucking buds and make the trees blossom and bear fruit in the next year. Fertilization before low temperature in winter, mainly potassium fertilizer, can enhance the cold resistance of plants and reduce freezing injury.
Extended data:
Folding budding
1. Sucking buds are born in the axils of stems above ground, also known as axillary buds and semi-abdominal buds. Suction buds used as seedlings should be fully mature. The place where the leaf body hardens and opens is about 24-36 cm long. After peeling off the basal leaves, brown small roots appear, which is mature bud absorption. Generally, bud-sucking seedlings are picked before and after fruit picking for seedling raising. The plants propagated by sucking buds are more robust than other buds, and bear fruit earlier, usually at 12- 16 months after planting. The size of sucking buds is related to the fruit sooner or later, and the plants with large sucking buds can blossom and bear fruit only after 1 year.
2. If big buds are used, they will bear fruit soon after planting, and the fruit is small and not suitable for use. In order to expand the propagation coefficient, when the height of sucking buds of mother plants is about 10- 15 cm, they can all be picked and propagated, and then the mother plants are applied with quick-acting fertilizer 1 time to promote the continuous germination of basal buds. When the second batch of sucking buds grows to the above height, the third batch of sucking buds can germinate as before. In this way, in a year's time, a mother plant of the Philippine variety germinated and sucked more than 40 buds on average. If you need mature seedlings with a height of 30 cm, you can only get 6-8 plants per plant.
3, the crown bud The crown bud is born at the top of the fruit, also known as the terminal bud. After crown bud colonization, leaves are many, short and dense; More roots, faster roots; The fruit is big, the flowers are neat, and the fruit is ripe. Generally, two years after planting, inferior varieties such as double crown, multiple crown and fan crown bud should be eliminated. The suitable time to pick the crown bud is about 20 cm above the bud, the leaves become hard, the upper part opens, the base narrows (commonly known as "inserting the waist and spreading the tail"), and young roots appear.
4. Buds are born at the base or stalk of the fruit, also called buds. The growth and fruiting time and yield of strong buds are the same as those of crown buds, and the yield of extra-large buds is higher. For multi-ethnic buds and multi-fruit wart buds, they should be eliminated and should not be allowed to reproduce.
5. The development of fruits is often affected by the occurrence of buds, so they should be picked in batches. However, in order to propagate seedlings, 2-3 robust buds can be reserved properly, and can be picked and planted when they grow to 18-20 cm, and it takes about 18-24 months to bear fruit after planting, or 2-4 buds can be cut vertically to raise seedlings.