Food: Generally, newborn snakes eat newborn mice (commonly known as pills pinky), whether they are alive or frozen (but it is recommended to feed frozen mice). If they feed frozen mice, thaw them with warm water (warm water is neither hot water nor cold water), soak them for about 2 minutes 1, and then dry them with paper towels. Snakes don't eat wet things. When you grow up, see how big your mouth is. Don't let the snake eat a mouse that is 1.5 times bigger than it, otherwise it will have indigestion or can't swallow it. Don't touch the snake after feeding, because there will be mice in your hand, and the snake may mistake it for food, and because it will vomit (because the snake has a one-way esophagus, if it vomits, it will be very harmful to health or life). The small snake is fed once every 5-7 days, and the big snake is fed once every 7- 10 days.

Address: I use a storage box about 40cm long to store the snake, which is enough for it to live (adult corn snake 1.4m long, but not very wide, only 6cm wide). If allowed, you can give it a 20 gallon fish tank, which is the most comfortable size. In terms of padding, simply use kitchen paper as padding, and use wood chaff and small bark as advanced padding (in fact, kitchen paper is enough). Changing the mat depends on cleanliness, but at least once a week. Then there must be a water dish in the feeding box, which is enough to soak the snake's body. The recommended height is about 2-3cm. Change the water frequently, preferably once a day or once every two days. There will be chlorine in tap water, which is not good for it. It is suggested to give snake people water to drink.

Temperature: 35 degrees is the favorite temperature of corn snakes in summer. If it is winter, you should add warm pads, otherwise the snake will fall into hibernation (hibernation is dangerous for small snakes), and the snake needs heat to promote digestion after eating, so the temperature will eventually be between 25-35 degrees. If you want to breed, you can let the snake live in the environment of 16, 7 degrees, and you don't need to feed it during the period, because it is in the process of wintering (not hibernating), even if 1 does not eat for 2 months, there is no problem. When the spring snake completes the wintering, the mating desire will be improved a lot and the success rate will be considerable. In terms of humidity, indoor humidity is generally sufficient.

Molting: Snakes molt every once in a while. The symptom is that snakes prefer to avoid people. Glasses will have a gray skin, and their body color will darken, but after a few days, they will regain their clarity and then shed their skin. There is no need to feed or return the mat during this period, so try not to disturb it. Some snakes will be very upset during molting, so don't touch them with your hands to avoid being bitten.

Introduction: Because corn snakes are very docile, they generally don't bite, and getting started is not a technical job, but remember that snakes also have bones. Pick it up with both hands, so that it has enough support points and is not easy to fall down. However, some corn snakes are nervous. They are wary of unfamiliar environments or people, and will quickly wag their tails and install rattlesnakes to scare people, indicating that they are very unhappy now and their owners have been annoyed by them. It's not too late to wait for the snake to feel better in a few days.

The above is my personal experience in raising corn snakes. I hope to help the landlord. Corn snake is very cute. Let's get started (дъ).