Crab claw orchid begins to bloom almost every year from June 5438+065438+ 10, and can last until April and May of the following year. Now it is June 5438+ 10, which is the key period for flower bud differentiation of Crab claw orchid.
Many flower friends began to ask, how can we raise it now to make the crab claw orchid bloom? Today, I will talk to you in detail from three aspects.
1, water
In the flower bud differentiation stage of any plant, watering should be properly controlled. If it is a young crab claw orchid, there is no need to deliberately control water when the long leaves develop, as long as the soil surface is dry, it can be watered. However, when mature seedlings are about to differentiate into flower buds, you can water them lazily and then water them every time the leaves wither, so that they will have the motivation to bloom.
2. Lighting equipment
Crab claw orchid is a short-day plant, which doesn't need much light, but it doesn't mean you have to keep it indoors all the time. Weak indoor astigmatism will affect flower bud differentiation, and it will only grow white, so it is enough to keep the light on a bright balcony or windowsill for 8~ 10 hours every day. Of course, you can't expose yourself to the sun, or you will get sunburned.
When you find that the top leaves of the crab claw orchid begin to turn red during maintenance, it means that the sunshine is effective and buds will appear soon.
Step 3 apply fertilizer
Flowering is inseparable from fertilization. The demand for fertilizer in crab claw orchid is not great, but there should be a lot of fertilizer. We all know that nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are used in the growth period, and phosphorus and potassium are used before and after flowering. But if we can't judge whether to enter the flower bud differentiation stage, I suggest that balanced fertilizer and phosphorus and potassium should be used alternately, diluted with water and irrigated at the root.
Of course, foliar fertilizer such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate can also be sprayed on leaves, but white spots are often left on the surface of leaves, which affects the ornamental effect, so I have been using Huaduoduo No.2 fertilizer to water the roots.
Maintenance precautions
1, why is there no bud? You can try to remove the top 1~2 tender leaves and all the thin yellow leaves, which is equivalent to topping, which can promote lateral branch germination and flower bud differentiation.
After autumn, the air in the north becomes very dry, and the leaves may look dark. At this time, it is suggested to sprinkle water on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to increase the air humidity.
Never spray water on the leaves after the bud appears. Spraying water will make the bud fall off, turn black and make it unable to bloom.
4. Once the location is selected, don't move the flowerpot, and don't change the location frequently, because the crab claw orchid is very sensitive to the environment. Slightly different will protest, drop buds, yellow leaves, etc. In other words, every time you change places, you need a process of seedlings slowly adapting, thus affecting growth and flowering.
Someone asked, is it appropriate to change it now? My suggestion is not to change pots, just wait until the newly bought crab claw orchid has finished a crop of flowers; Change the original seedlings after flowering next year.
Ok, the maintenance of crab claw orchid is over. If you have any other questions, please leave a message and discuss with me!