Yingshan County is located in the center of the hinterland of the Dabie Mountains.
The origin of red pomelo is Wubu Township, Ba County, Sichuan, also called Wubu pomelo. There is also Pinghe in Fujian, which is currently the best red heart variety. Nowadays, large-scale planting has been established in Pinghe and Nanjing areas of Fujian, and the main brand of red pomelo is still from Pinghe.
Pomelo planting period
1. Planting period:
Spring planting: This is mostly used in areas where irrigation is inconvenient or cold in winter in autumn and winter. During the planting period, two key points should be grasped for spring planting: First, the spring shoots must be fully matured and the leaves are dark green and shiny before planting. Too early will prevent the spring shoots from being fully mature and slow in the growth of new roots and the germination of summer shoots. Late. Second, planting should be done as soon as possible after the spring shoots mature. If the sun is too hot in summer, the survival rate will be affected and the shoot period will be delayed.
Autumn planting: In areas with good irrigation conditions, planting is mostly done at this time, that is, after the autumn shoots are mature (about October-November). At this time, the climate is still warm, and growth will resume soon after planting. A large number of new roots will occur, and the new shoots will grow particularly well in the second year. This is the best planting period and one of the measures for early fruiting and high yield.
Winter planting: The temperature in winter is low, and the spring shoots germinate and mature later. Plant after the severe cold and before the spring shoots sprout. At this time, the weather has warmed up, and the new roots will grow quickly after planting. The disadvantage is that That year, the pomelo vomiting in the spring shoots was not neat enough.
In addition to choosing a reasonable planting period according to local conditions, when planting red-fleshed honey pomelo, you should also pay attention to the local climate conditions. It is best to avoid planting in rainy and northerly weather. The soil is too wet on rainy days, so planting will be difficult. Afterwards, the soil becomes compacted and it is difficult for new roots to germinate. When the north wind blows, the leaves evaporate greatly, which can easily cause a large number of fallen leaves. The ideal weather is cloudy with no rain or rain after planting.
2. Planting density
The spacing between planting rows should vary according to the terrain and soil quality. Generally, mountainous areas are thin and barren, but have better ventilation, so they can be planted more densely. , plant 30-35 plants per mu, and the plant-row spacing is 1.2 feet × 1.5 feet (33 plants per mu). For single-row cascade planting, the plant-to-row spacing is 1.3 feet. Planting on flat land or in patches with fertile soil can be appropriately sparse, with 26 to 28 plants per mu being 1.3 feet × 1.6 feet, or more sparsely 1.5 × 2 feet and 1.8 × 2 feet.
3. Planting method:
Seedlings: Grafted seedlings have the characteristics of developed root system, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth, and rapid crown formation, especially in mountainous areas or with relatively poor water conservancy conditions. Poor orchard planting has greater implications. Ring-branched seedlings have no taproot, and their drought resistance is not as good as that of grafted seedlings. Their initial growth is slow, their reproduction coefficient is small, and their costs are high. They often bring scale insects from the parent tree to new areas, and they are prone to collapse when planted in typhoon areas.
Before planting, the seedlings must first be pruned, cut off the immature shoots, and cut off 3-4 leaves from each branch to reduce water evaporation, prevent defoliation, and improve the survival rate, and then The roots need to be beaten with mud. It must be noted that mud that is too thick will cause root rot, while mud that is too thin will have no protective effect. People's experience is to insert the hand into the mud and then pull it out. It is better to not see fingerprints on the mud stuck to the hand, but to be able to see the veins on the back of the hand. When planting, place the seedlings in the center of the planting point. The roots should extend diagonally downwards and not come into contact with the base fertilizer. After covering the soil, hold the seedlings upright with your hands, step on them from the outside in with your feet, pour the first water, and return to the soil. Near the grafting interface, pour water for the second time. The height of the grafting interface of mountainous planting from the ground depends on the depth of the planting hole, the amount of grass filled and the time between filling and planting. If the planting hole has a lot of grass buried and is planted after filling, the grafting interface should be higher. 25-35cm above the ground, bury the hole one month before planting and let it rain. If the soil sinks, the height of the joint from the ground can be reduced to 20-27cm. If the interface is too low, when the soil sinks in the future, the soil will cover the grafting interface, which will not only easily cause the interface to rot, but also cover the soil too deep, which will slow down the growth of new roots.
After planting, the soil around the pomelo seedlings should be cultivated into a 1-meter-diameter disc row to facilitate watering and fertilization, and then covered with mountain grass or straw, and fully watered. Water once a day within three days after planting. Water, then water once every 2-3 days until new roots grow.
15-20 days after planting, pull out the topsoil and check. If there are new roots, you can start to apply thin decomposed human urine, 2-3 loads of water per load, to promote the growth of new roots.
The key points of cultivation techniques are summarized as follows:
1. The pomelo orchard should be established in a sunny and sheltered area with abundant water sources, deep soil, and fertile sandy soil.
The garden should be on equal-height terraces, with a row-to-row spacing of 3 meters x 3 meters, and a triangular planting pattern is preferred.
Guanxi Red Honey Pomelo can be planted all year round as long as the new shoots are mature.
2. Select robust seedlings. Select annual grafted seedlings with well-developed root systems and strong growth for planting.
Under good management conditions, the seedlings can quickly resume growth. , the crown formation is also faster.
3. Expand holes, improve soil, and improve fertility. Important measures to improve site conditions are the basis for early fruit, high quality, and high yield. Hole expansion and soil improvement generally start in the second year after planting and are best completed in the third year. The specific method is to symmetrically dig trenches 60-70 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide on both sides under the canopy drip line, fill them with one load each of green manure and burned soil, 1.5 kg of calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer, an appropriate amount of lime and topsoil. , applied in layers and compacted to improve the soil.
4. Reasonable pruning and correct girdling (cutting) Pruning principles: Use thinning branches, cut more peripheral branches of the crown and less inner branches.
Pruning time: Young pomelo trees are generally pruned in two times, namely summer pruning and winter pruning; fruit pomelo trees are generally pruned in three times, namely spring pruning, summer pruning and Winter pruning, spring pruning takes place from February to March, summer pruning takes place from May to July, and winter pruning takes place half a month after fruit picking, that is, October to November. Pruning method: Do not use a "one size fits all" method, focus on thinning out peripheral branches, and use a "skylight" pruning method for denser crowns. This method can effectively control the crown of the tree,
promote the germination of inner branches without reducing yield due to heavy pruning. The inner branches should be pruned of fruiting branches,
dead branches, diseased branches and weak branches. For pomelo trees that grow vigorously but do not bloom or bloom rarely, girdling and circumcision should be performed in late September. The method of girdling (cutting) is: use girdling and peeling (skin width 1 cm) or girdling on the trunk or main branches with a diameter of more than 6 cm, deep to the xylem. After treatment, the wound is treated with 20 ppm of 2,4-D + 800 times of thiophanate methyl, which will not have any adverse effects on tree vigor and yield. The girdling (cutting) method can inhibit vegetative growth, promote flower bud differentiation, increase flower volume, and ensure yield.
5. Scientific fertilization to improve quality
Fertilization method: Use circular furrow fertilization. The frequency of fertilization is as follows: "Basic fertilizer should be applied in autumn, germination fertilization should be applied with caution to protect the fruit.
According to the requirements of "Fertilizer for Strong Fruit", fertilize 3-4 times throughout the year. Mainly use organic fertilizers, supplemented by inorganic fertilizers, and apply more P and K fertilizers.
Fertilize the plants for germination by applying 20-30 kg of pig manure from the end of February to early March.
The fruit-preserving fertilizer is mainly extra-root top dressing, spraying 0.3% urea + 0.2% dihydrogen phosphate Potassium,
Apply 20-40 kg of pig manure to strong fruit-fertilizing plants from the end of June to early July.
Apply 40-60 kg of stable manure + urea to fruit-growing plants. 200 grams + 0.5 kg of phosphate fertilizer, applied before and after fruit picking, usually in December. 6. Reasonable fruit thinning.
Before bagging, thin out malformed fruits, small fruits and diseased and insect-infected fruits.
The amount of fruit hanging is generally based on the leaf-to-fruit ratio (160-200 ): 1 is good. After thinning and setting the fruit,
wait until the young fruit grows to a single fruit weight of 100-150 grams and a fruit transverse diameter of about 5 cm before bagging.
Pay attention to the width and tightness when bagging. Moderate, neither loosening the bag nor damaging the fruit stem.
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