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How do families grow grape vines? I have a grapevine planted in my yard and I would like some experience in watering, fertilizing and pruning it.

The growth habits of grapes prefer full sunshine, dry weather, and are relatively cold-tolerant. They require a well-ventilated growing environment. The soil requirements are not strict. In addition to heavy clay and saline-alkali soil, it can adapt to sandy soil, gravel soil, light clay and loam. However, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline sandy or gravelly loam with deep soil, good drainage, loose fertilization and appropriate humidity is most suitable. Tolerant to drought and avoid waterlogging.

Home cultivation mainly includes two methods: garden planting and potted planting.

(1) Courtyard planting: First, choose a planting location with sufficient sunlight, good ventilation, and high and dry terrain according to the habits of grapes. Before planting, plow the ground deeply, apply enough decomposed base fertilizer, and then plant the grape seedlings in holes according to the planting location. Pay attention to the roots to stretch and not to bury them deeply. It is better to plant them on raised soil mounds. Finally, thin the branches slightly, compact the soil in the rhizosphere, pour enough water to set the roots, and tie the vines to the pillars or supports.

In terms of maintenance, the following work should be focused on:

① Watering and fertilizing. Grapes like dryness, so they should be watered less or not at all when they are blooming and bearing fruit. In winter, the soil in dry areas in the north needs to be kept moist. Proper fertilization is the key to grape growth and fruiting. In some winters, sufficient nitrogen and phosphorus base fertilizers should be applied, phosphate fertilizers should be applied 1 to 2 times before flowering, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied 1 to 2 times after fruiting.

②Shaping and pruning. Shaping often takes different forms due to different planting methods. For example, for scaffolding, it is generally recommended to focus on lifting the main vine and one side branch to grow into a large crown. After the crown width is formed, the branches are then pruned and thinned to form more trees. Reasonable fruiting of branches; while the fence type and wall-mounted type can be planted with a single plant, leaving only one upright main vine, and then growing short layered fruiting side branches, it can also be trimmed into a larger spacing and directional cultivation. Longer side branches extending parallel to the traction lines on both sides and each layer of the fence.

Pruning should be done every year during the dormant period to leave appropriate fruiting branches at a reasonable density, and then cut short only 1 to 2 buds at the reserved position so that they can grow into new reserved branches next year. Fruiting branches. Alternate pruning every year so that a certain amount of fruiting branches can be formed every year.

Pruning during the growth period is mainly used to timely remove weak branches and redundant branches that affect ventilation, light transmission, and evacuation of nutrients.

To control the super long growth of fruiting branches, but avoid excessive pruning. Presenting reserved results

The branches bloom in advance in the autumn of the current year, affecting abnormal flowering and results in the coming year.

(2) Potted plants: They are mostly used for cultivation on southern balconies, which can beautify the environment and provide shade in summer. Use plain-fired pots with a diameter of 30cm or more. A small amount of bricks and tiles can be mixed into the cultivation soil. Plant one plant in each pot. When planting, add a handful of decomposed cake fertilizer to the cultivation soil close to the bottom of the pot, mix it slightly, and add a handful of it. After layering a thin layer of soil, the seedlings are planted into the pot. The basics of maintenance and management are similar to those of ground-planted seedlings. Potted seedlings are often made of bamboo wood into single-column, triangular or elongated oval supports.

(3) Pests and diseases prevention Grape pests and diseases include black pox, downy mildew, diaphragm moths, aphids, scale insects, gold flower bugs, ruler moths, etc., but the first three are the main ones that cause serious damage. .

Black pox disease: It damages the young green parts. In the early stage, needle-like reddish-brown to dark brown spots appear on the infected leaves, with yellow halos outside. When expanded, they become round to irregular rectangular, 1 to 4 !^1^The center is grayish white and the edge is dark brown. The lesions will break up after drying. The lesions on the leaf veins are prismatic, causing shrinkage and distortion. The disease of the fruit stem causes partial or whole ear stunting, withering and falling off. Bird's-eye-shaped lesions appear after green fruit disease, and later harden and crack. New shoots are also susceptible to infection before they become lignified, and when severe, the branches will die.

Incidence pattern: The onset period is from late April to early May, and the peak period is in June. The occurrence of the disease will be aggravated by low-lying terrain, weak tree vigor, ineffective removal of diseased branches in winter, improper fertilization (partial application of nitrogen fertilizer), and weak disease resistance of varieties. European species are mostly disease-resistant. Prevention and control methods: ① Strengthen horticultural prevention and control, such as selecting disease-resistant species, and doing a good job in clearing diseased branches and removing old bark in winter. ② For the first spraying every year, 1:0.7:240 Bordeaux mixture should be used. For other sprays, 50% chlorothalonil 800-l000 times solution, or 75" chlorothalonil 700 times solution, or 7 cm manganese 800 times can be sprayed. ? 1000 times liquid, etc.

Grape downy mildew: mainly damages the leaves, but also damages other young tissues. The leaf lesions are water-soaked at first, and then become yellow to brown, multi-angular spots, and can be connected into Large spots, white to gray-white downy mildew layer appears on the back of leaves when it is wet. In the later stage, the spots dry up and the leaves fall early. The young fruits become soft and rot after being infected.

Incidence pattern: Overwintering pathogens. Oospores or mycelium are spread by wind and rain in June of the following year, and September to October is the peak period of disease. Did you know that rainy and low temperatures in autumn can easily cause the epidemic?

Prevention and treatment methods: ① Eliminate the disease and burn it. ② In the early stage of the disease, the same amount of Bordeaux liquid or 500 times of 50% copper methyl cream is often sprayed for 2 to 3 times.

Grape worm (heart borer): It is eaten by newly hatched larvae. The young stems are damaged and easily damaged by the wind and die, causing a large number of fruit drops.

Occurrence rules: It occurs once a year. The larvae overwinter in the branches and mature in June of the following year. They mate and lay eggs. After hatching, the larvae begin to cause damage to the twigs. The affected parts swell and become tumor-like, and there is a pile of brown insect droppings near the boreholes.

Prevention and treatment methods: ① Manual killing. @Spray 1 cm to 2 cm of pyrethroid pesticides 1500 to 2000 times during the grape bud stage, with good results.

Propagation methods: Grapes are mainly propagated by cuttings, but they can also be propagated by grafting and layering.

(1) Cuttings: Select annual branches with plump bud eyes, cut them in winter and hide them in the sand. Cut them into cuttings with 2 to 3 buds in March of the following year. They are often used for cuttings in the open field and can also be used as pots. Insert. You can also choose strong and strong current-year branches in June, cut them into 2 to 3-node cuttings, peel off the lower leaves, leaving only the top leaf, and cut off 1/3~1/2 of the leaves at the tip, and insert them into In coarse sand, sprinkle water frequently to keep the matrix moist.

(2) Grafting: It is mostly used to replace and improve inferior species of adult trees. In early spring, when the sap just begins to flow, grafting is carried out by cutting. If the sap flows too much after the rootstock is cut, the incision is often difficult to heal.

(3) Layering: Although the survival rate can reach 10 cm, the operation is more cumbersome than the cutting method, so it is often only used when the female parent of an excellent variety is rare.

Cultivation and maintenance Grapes should be transplanted and planted during the dormant period, which is normally carried out from after the leaves fall in late autumn to before germination in the next spring.