Beginning of winter's historical beginning of winter is the nineteenth of the twenty-four solar terms in the lunar calendar, which is determined on the basis that the sun reaches 225 degrees on the yellow meridian. Beginning of winter is not only the time when harvest sacrifices and harvest banquets are held ceremoniously, but also the season when the cold wind blows. There are customs and activities such as "October New Moon", "Qin Sui Shou", "Cold Clothes Festival" and "Harvest Festival".

At this time, in the north, it is the month of Meng Dong when the water freezes and the ground begins to freeze, but in the south it is the weather of Xiaoyangchun. Beginning of winter is a big festival in October. During the Han and Wei Dynasties, on this day, the Emperor of Heaven will personally lead his ministers to welcome the winter weather, commend and support the martyrs and their families who died for their country, ask the deceased to protect their lives, and encourage the people to resist the plunder and invasion of foreign enemies or evil bandits. In China, there are customs such as offering sacrifices to ancestors, feasting, and predicting the age of the ancestors, so as to fulfill the obligations and responsibilities of future generations, and pray that God will give them a bumper year next year, and farmers themselves will get drinking.

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It is a special custom of the old Suzhou people to eat a bowl of bacon and vegetable rice in winter. The cooked rice is fragrant and waxy with frosted Chinese cabbage, lean bacon and rice vinegar as raw materials, a brick stove and straw as fuel. Bacon paella is not included in Suzhou's famous recipes, but it never lacks diners who love it.

In fact, eating paella with bacon has another meaning, that is, eating salty kidney. Salty taste has been listed as the first of the five flavors since ancient times. After beginning of winter, the weather is getting colder, which is the most likely to hurt the yang of the kidney. Salty food into the kidney can play a role in tonifying the kidney. However, it should be noted that patients with hypertension should not eat too much salt.