One day, he got pink eye, and the doctor warned him to eat less meat to recover. He thought about it and said, I want to hear it from you, but my mouth disagreed. It says, I don't care if my eyes are sick. So, I must continue to eat this meat.
Su Dongpo wrote nearly fifty poems about eating in his life. Fruits such as litchi, longan, betel nut, Myrica rubra, olive, peach, apricot, peach, pomegranate, cherry, papaya and other animals such as carp, finless porpoise, pork, scorpion, rabbit, oxtail raccoon, yellowbird, spring pigeon, pheasant, smoked rat, honey pump, bat, snake, frog, etc.
These food treasures are all over the north and south of the river he walked through. It can be said that wherever I went, I ate, and finally I ate a Su Dongpo version of Da Song on the Tip of the Tongue.
First look at Huangzhou, Hubei Province, the hinterland of the Great Song Dynasty.
1079, 42-year-old Su Dongpo got away from Wutai poetry case and was demoted to Huangzhou. In his own words, "it's ridiculous to laugh at yourself all your life, and it's ridiculous to be old." .
Huangzhou, now Huanggang City, Hubei Province, is located at the southern foot of Dabie Mountain. The unique geographical location brings rich food and game. For a senior foodie, this is a blessing in disguise.
The wind flies into the curtains, and it breaks my brow when I think of it. I'm tired of listening to mud, and the wine is shallow and delicious. -"Send Beaver and Xu"
Winter is the fattest season for oxtail raccoons. Su Dongpo took a oxtail raccoon to visit Xu Junyou, the magistrate of Huangzhou. During Su Dongpo's relegation, Xu Taishou took good care of his family.
It's cold and snowy outside. It's warm and fragrant. They drank wine, enjoyed oxtail and beaver, and had a good time. The delicate and fragrant raccoon meat dispelled the relegation and sadness lingering in Su Dongpo's heart.
According to Compendium of Materia Medica, oxtail raccoon dogs have the effect of sobering up. This is the best appetizer for Su Dongpo, who likes drinking but can't control his drinking capacity.
According to local records, pheasants in Dabie Mountains were always tributes before the Qing Dynasty, which showed that their meat was delicious.
Su Dongpo certainly won't miss this delicious food, as evidenced by poetry:
The male pheasant dragged its tail and flew to the sunset. Fighting in the air, colorful feathers fall like flowers. One hundred yuan a pair, the new flavor is the best. Boil and mix the chicken, and the claws are full of teeth. -"Food Pheasant"
The poem mentions the practice of pheasant: frying.
Heat the pot with low fire, pour the oil all over the bottom of the pot, and after the oil sizzles, add the pheasant pieces until the pheasant is golden yellow. With a gentle bite, it is tender and crisp, and the cheeks are fragrant.
How much is this pheasant? One hundred dollars for two. You should know that Su Dongpo was demoted as the deputy head of the militia in Huangzhou, and his salary was meager. The whole family had to rely on farming to eat enough, so that the daily family income was stipulated as 150 yuan. Buying two pheasants takes two-thirds of the family's daily expenses, and only senior foodies are willing to give up.
Dongpo braised pork
"Huangzhou good pork, the price and other dirty things. The rich refuse to eat, and the poor don't know how to cook. -"ode to pork"
Song dynasty has always been a cheap pig. People in the upper class like to eat mutton, but they think pork is on the decline. People don't know how to cook. They think pork is not delicious.
How can it be difficult to get Su Dongpo, a gluttonous person, for such a simple thing as cooking?
Without water, firewood can't smoke. Don't rush him when he is ripe, it looks good when the fire is full. -"ode to pork"
Use less water and stew with low fire, which is Su Dongpo's exclusive secret recipe. The important thing is said three times:
Su Dongpo's Dongpo meat is white cook the meat, white cook the meat and white cook the meat.
How does it taste?
Get up and play a bowl every day. It's full and I can't worry. -"ode to pork"
It seems that for a carnivore like Su Dongpo, having no meat every morning is a disappointment to life!
Later, after hundreds of years of evolution, Dongpo meat gradually evolved into a well-known braised pork, which is also very attractive!
Next, we turned our eyes to the southeast and came to Changzhou, Jiangsu.
Although Su Dongpo did not work in Changzhou, he has been to Changzhou more than ten times in his life. One of the temptations is puffer fish.
Two or three peach blossoms outside the bamboo forest and ducks in the water first noticed the warm spring.
The beach is covered with wormwood, asparagus is beginning to sprout, and puffer fish are preparing to swim upstream from the sea back to the river.
This is an inscribed poem written by Su Dongpo for Hui Chong's Night Scene of the Spring River. In just four sentences, the vibrant scene of early spring is vividly on the paper.
The last sentence is very obscure. The puffer fish is the most plump when it lays eggs upstream. Only foodies will think, oh, puffer fish will be listed again.
Su Dongpo is interested in eating puffer fish. His friend Li invited him to taste puffer fish at home. At that time, Su Dongpo seemed to be a small online celebrity in the literary world. When women, old and young, learned about it, they all hid behind the screen and listened to what he would say about eating goods. I saw Su Dongpo's chopsticks under the slope, and he was silent for a long time. Everyone was disappointed and was about to leave when Su Dongpo shouted: Death is worth it.
You see, Su Dongpo is the ancestor who desperately ate puffer fish.
The third stop of The Great Song on the Tip of the Tongue is Huxian County, Shaanxi Province.
During the Tang and Song Dynasties, there was a lake outside Huxian County with clear water quality, and the fish in the lake was famous for its delicacy in the northwest.
When Su Dongpo worked as a book signing officer in Fengxiang County nearby, he wrote poems praising this fish.
Frost narration broke into a double mask with a long fish lying like a sword inside. Arnebia euchroma wears the gills badly, and the red scales are shining. Although it is still moving, it is dyed before it is ripe. -"Bubei Fish"
Such delicious fish must be original. Su Dongpo wrote the method of cooking fish:
Clean the fish, put it in cold water, sprinkle with salt, add Chinese cabbage and onion, and pour ginger, radish juice and cooking wine when it is half cooked. The ratio of these three ingredients is one to one. When the fish is about to be cooked, sprinkle some dried tangerine peel. All right, Dongpo fish can start work.
Friends who eat food may wish to make Dongpo fish according to this recipe.
We followed Su Dongpo to Huizhou, Guangdong.
Huizhou in the Northern Song Dynasty was a place where boils ran rampant and was extremely underdeveloped. However, there are also delicious foods. In addition to the 300 lychees famous in China, Su Dongpo also found a delicious dish-roasted sheep scorpion.
Speaking of the research and development of this sheep scorpion, it is also quite embarrassing. Huizhou was an underdeveloped county and city, and only one sheep was killed in the market every day. A typical monk has too much porridge. Su Dongpo was a relegated official and bought it there. But as a carnivore, you have to satisfy your hunger, right? So I had to buy sheep spines that people didn't want.
These leftover bits and pieces can't beat Su Dongpo, a gluttonous man.
He cooked the scorpion first, then coated it with some wine and thin salt, and then baked it in the stove. Wow, the sheep's spine is crisp and the meat is very attractive.
Su Dongpo specially wrote his secret recipe to his younger brother Su Zhe, and attached a comment: I feel very replenished after eating crab claws.
The scorpion tastes like a crab!
At the age of 62, Su Dongpo was banished to Zhan Zhou, now Hainan Island, by his political opponents.
Zhan Zhou in Song Dynasty was a barren land. In Su Dongpo's words, there is no meat, no medicine and no room.
In fact, there is not really no meat to eat.
Su Dongpo once mentioned in a letter to his younger brother Su Zhe:
The natives eat potatoes and taro every meal, and it is recommended to smoke mice and burn bats; When I first heard the honey pumping, I was a little close to the custom of toads.
Smoked rats, bats and toads are all well known, so what is honey pumping?
The newborn mouse has not yet opened its eyes, has no hair and is pink all over. Pour honey juice on it and clip it up to eat. Young rats are chirping in their mouths, so they are called honey pumps.
From the letter, I can't see whether Su Dongpo has ever eaten these "game", but San Q believes that as a gluttonous person who eats puffer fish to death, he must try it often.
Don't put pictures, in case, uh, you know! ! !
Because of the party struggle, Su Dongpo lived a wandering life after middle age, but he also ate delicious food that his contemporaries could not taste. Through his records, later generations were lucky enough to see the delicious food, cooking skills and unique food culture in various parts of the Song Dynasty.