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Last month, a friend from Beijing visited Hangzhou for the first time and asked for food? The most authentic Hangzhou food? . I chose an old brand, and ordered ham and tofu, sauced duck, smoked fish, braised pork, dried celery, fried bell, and a pot of sliced Sichuan.

My friend was puzzled when he saw the dishes on the table: Where is the vinegar fish in West Lake? What about shrimp in Longjing? What about water shield soup?

I smiled and answered: Hangzhou people eat at their own homes, and they never do this. No one will put tea in stir-fried shrimps, all of them? For tourists? ; In addition, people in Hangzhou really don't eat water shield of West Lake.

my friend was so surprised that his glasses almost fell off: What? People in Hangzhou don't eat water shield of West Lake? ?

From the perspective of geographical determinism, Hangzhou can only be regarded as the one with a long history of Wu and Yue cultures in the surrounding areas, such as Suzhou, Wuxi, Changzhou, Jiahu and Ningshao. Little brother? . In the Spring and Autumn Period, this was the border of Wu and Yue? No matter what? Zone; By the Qin Dynasty, when the first emperor visited the south, Hangzhou was still a beach.

It was after the Sui and Tang Dynasties that the city was really built in a strict sense.

Today, Hangzhou has become the regional center of Hangjiahu Plain and Ningshaoping Plain. But underneath, Hangzhou people are always a little unsure of food culture: the original landmark dishes are not delicious and popular among the people. What ordinary people really like comes from the surrounding area? Cultural highland? Inflow practice.

But from another angle, this unique historical origin also makes Hangzhou cuisine full of inclusiveness. The table I ordered earlier? Hangzhou home cooking? In fact, Huaiyang cuisine, Shanghai-Ningbo cuisine with thick oil and red sauce, Shaoxing cuisine with crispy texture, and even the dietary customs of Henan Central Plains brought by the southern crossing of Song Dynasty can be seen in it.

Yes, the weakness of history and culture can sometimes be an all-inclusive gene in diet. Hangzhou is undoubtedly a very typical example.

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There is a building outside the lake, but there is a sweet tower in the city

/ There is no distinction between the north and the south /

The southern crossing of the Zhao and Song royal families not only built a developed economic foundation for Hangzhou, but also brought the urban gene of leisure and enjoyment.

the so-called warmth and lust. After meeting the needs of the hungry, Hangzhou's diet has undergone earth-shaking innovation since the Southern Song Dynasty. Hangzhou has almost become the gourmet capital of the world in the works describing the scenery of the capital city of the Southern Song Dynasty, such as Mengliang Lu and Xian Chun Lin 'an Zhi. Whether it's mutton and crisp cheese of nomadic people in the north, pastry, powder soup and deep frying of Han people in the Central Plains, or fish, shrimps, crabs and shellfish produced in the south of the Yangtze River, you can find traces here.

What is the most famous Southern Song cuisine today? Crab stuffed orange? It is the perfect combination of fruits from the Central Plains and aquatic products from the south. Summarize it with a sentence in Dream Liang Lu:? The diet is confused, and there is no distinction between north and south. ?

under the influence of this atmosphere, Hangzhou people's tolerant tongues have also been achieved.

There is a saying in Hangzhou: Building outside the lake, building in the city? Besides stating that these two century-old restaurants are in this city? Mobile phone? Besides his qualifications, he also wrote two distinct factions of Hangzhou cuisine:? Lake gang? And? City pie? .

a brief summary? Lake gang? Fish, shrimp, poultry and fresh vegetables are used, which combine the fresh and elegant artistic conception of Huaiyang cuisine with the technique of using oil and slurry in Central Plains cooking, and are original and clear. For example, fried sweet beans, sliced fish, drunken shrimp, and even sliced pork with snow bamboo shoots belong to this category.

? City pie? Meat, especially pickled sauce, is the most used material, which is deeply influenced by the cross-border diet represented by Shaoxing and the thick oil red sauce represented by Ningbo, Shanghai. It is full of tension, rich and long. For example, fish head tofu, Dongpo meat, steamed pork with dried plum vegetables, salted pieces, salted bamboo shoots, honey sauce fire recipe and so on.

it looks clear and thick, static and moving, and it seems that water and fire are incompatible. But in Hangzhou, they can really appear on the menu of the same restaurant and on the same table. Cause and effect each other and grow separately.

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The place with the fastest iteration of food formats

/ Nightmare of restaurants, paradise for eating goods /

Time has come to modern times. With developed logistics, population migration and taste integration, the first salmon caught from the North Atlantic can lie on the plates of diners in China the next day.

Although this revolutionary new catering format has made the catering culture of some cities that respect tradition gradually decline, it has achieved another rebirth in a place like Hangzhou, which has inclusiveness in its bones.

at the end of 2118, according to a statistics of catering industry by a portal website, Chengdu is the city with the largest number of people eating out, Guangzhou is the city most willing to spend money on food, and Hangzhou is the city with the fastest iteration of recipes.

Hangzhou people are always fascinated by the new mode, new play, new taste and new ingredients of restaurants, which is undoubtedly a nightmare for restaurants.

Therefore, Hangzhou has never been a paradise for restaurants, but it has always been a paradise for eating goods. Many restaurants that can stand out from here walk all over the country like grandma's family, which is unfavorable.

At the same time, as a city with strong tourism attributes, Hangzhou's diet has also developed a distinct echelon. High-end Chinese food, French food and Italian food from the West Lake; Affectionate Japanese cuisine on Zhongshan Road; Go to the alleys of Dadou Road, Shengli River Food Festival, green tea, and old fried shrimps; Then go to legendary noodle restaurants and Jianghu stalls all over the street. Hangzhou is a city that can always be found? What do you want to eat? Can you eat well? The city.

In the legendary swordsman, when Ling Huchong came to Hangzhou for dinner and drinking, he used jade cups and pear wine, which was especially exquisite. As if in Hangzhou, the food has become ceremonial.

Mr. Jin Yong, if you don't bully me.