Sashimi blossom, low-key treasure city: Quanzhou

City of ten continents of people: Quanzhou | Song and Yuan China's center of the world's maritime commerce and trade

I. Transportation

The field need to fly to Jinjiang Airport, now cabbage price, round trip more than 600 can be done. Jinjiang airport is very close to Quanzhou, taxi more than 30 dollars to the city center.

There are many different kinds of transportation in the city. The Quanzhou special battery car "Xiaobai", which costs 2 yuan a time, will take you around the old city.

I didn't see any **** enjoy bicycle, **** enjoy electric car is there, but in the core tourist area of the ancient city is rare, in Jinjiang is full of streets.

For foreign travelers, the most convenient is still the Quanzhou municipal government provided bicycles, stations, borrowing and returning at any time. The first hour is free, and WeChat sweep code is open. Riding a bicycle around the ancient streets and alleys, simply not too convenient.

Quanzhou public **** bike

Further away from the place to play drop driving, cab, it is also a second order. Of course, you can also bus, brush Alipay, cloud flash payment can be.

Between the ancient towns and cities, you need to go to the passenger transportation center to take a bus. For example, Chongwu Ancient Town, tickets are bought as you go, and the bus is about 1 hour. It should be noted that there are two different lines, one along the coast, the scenery is infinite, it is recommended to go when you can sit; the other way to Luoyang Bridge, a little farther away, the return trip to choose this line to visit the Luoyang Bridge on the way.

The route is written on the outside of the bus, so be sure to read it carefully before getting on the bus. The master drives very hard, please fasten your seatbelt.

By the way, Alipay diamond member benefits: free pickup within 50 kilometers, all good cars. There is also an airport security fast track, slightly chicken. If you want to take a plane from Daxing, Daxing airport line tickets can be salted fish purchase, half price. Airport waiting VIP hall, you can also salted fish search, there are surprises.

Second, the attractions

"Underground to see Xi'an, above ground to see Quanzhou" has become the propaganda slogan of the city of Quanzhou. Although this sentence is the old man Shizhe made up, but also very apt.

Quanzhou under the jurisdiction of Li Cheng, Feng Ze, Luo Jiang, Quan Gang 4 districts, Jinjiang, Shishi, Nan'an 3 county-level cities, Hui'an, Anxi, Yongchun, Dehua, Jinmen 5 counties. From the map can also be seen, the place is very large, rich in tourism resources.

When you get off the plane, it is highly recommended that the first stop is first to Jinjiang Wudian City, which is only a few kilometers away from the airport.

Family temples in the traditional neighborhoods of Wudian City

The first sight was shocked. The first thing that caught my eye was the ancient buildings with beautiful curves and gorgeous colors. The red bricks of the "Imperial Palace" are unique to southern Fujian, and the western and eastern buildings are a combination of Chinese and Western styles, as well as a variety of special buildings from the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Republic of China, and the modern era. Under the blue sky and white clouds, the roofs are light and spreading, a harmonic and subtle beauty, completely different from the northern kind of straight and heavy architectural style.

Then into the ancient city of Quanzhou. That's where most tourists go, the carp city. It's worth spending some time wandering around the ancient city alone.

Guanyue Temple at night

Most of the sights to see are centered around West Street, Zhongshan Road and Tumen Street. Accommodation is also recommended to stay in this neighborhood, the streets and alleys are hidden inside a number of bed and breakfast.

West Street Bell Tower is the center of the city, with the famous Kaiyuan Temple, the Twin Towers. By the way, remember to go to the West Street Visitor Center, up to the roof rooftop, you can overlook the West Street and the Twin Towers, there are a lot of props specially prepared for tourists to take pictures, very thoughtful.

Kaiyuan Temple to see a lot of the so-called "six Shushu", "eight auspicious".

West Street on both sides of a lot of ancient alleys, not to be missed is the well Pavilion Lane, due to a well and a tower named. The Tingxin Pagoda is in the yard of a family, but the old lady was very friendly and saw us watching from outside the house and took the initiative to invite us in to visit and take photos.

The alleys around East Street are home to the quieter Chengtian Temple, with far fewer tourists and an elegant Zen atmosphere that is expected of a temple.

If you have time, you can go back to Chongfu Temple. It and Kaiyuan Temple, Chengtian Temple and known as the "three jungles in Quanzhou.

Yuanmiao Guan seems to be ignored by tourists, but in fact it is the first Taoist temple in Quanzhou, very interesting.

Yuanmiao Guan

On Tu Men Street, there are Guan Yue Temple, Qing Jing Temple and Wen Temple. The Temple of Literature is a grand scale building, and all the architectural forms of Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing can be found here, and it is worth visiting.

The main entrance to the Temple of Literature

There is also the Caonan Temple, which was built in the Song Dynasty - the only remaining Manichaean temple in China, and the only existing Manichaean temple site in the world.

Caoan Manichaean Buddha Statue

This is from the Quanzhou Tourism Bureau recommended hiking routes in the ancient city, 6 kilometers a day itinerary:

Government Temple of Literature → Qingjing Temple → Guanyue Temple → Houcheng Street → Palace of Culture → Jiuyi Street → Nanyi Street → Nanshun Lane → Chengtian Lane → Zhenfu Lane → Zhongshan Zhongshan Road → Tongzheng Lane → Huitong Lane → Sujingmen → Jinting Lane → Tingshinta → Xijie Street → the old Pavilion Stage → Guyanxian Lane → Flower Lane →Haogoujian→Goldfish Alley→Xu Chuocheng→Old Liyuan Theater Troupe (the site of Nanwai Zongzhengji) →Sanchao Alley→Kaoyuan Temple→Furnace Shimuncheng→Pei Alley→Shoe Alley→Xinjie→Small Chenghuang→Weyuan Building→Zhongshan Park

There are three special museums in Quanzhou, all of which are unique in the country. If you have time, you may want to visit them. Overseas Transportation History Museum, Fujian-Taiwan Rim Museum, and Quanzhou Museum.

Overseas Transportation History Museum

A little further away from the map there is a large green area, that is Qingyuan Mountain. A famous Taoist mountain, it is home to the age-old statue of Laozi.

Qingyuan Mountain is definitely a place you can't miss. If you think the 70 RMB entrance fee is too expensive, you might want to get up early like the local moncler jackets, take the first 28 bus (6:40) all the way to the Tianhu station, and then go all the way down, and get free admission.

Qingyuan Mountain overlooking Quanzhou, with West Lake Park in the distance

Don't forget to have a morning tea at the open-air teahouse at the top of the mountain, and eat a hearty breakfast before heading down the mountain, the people of Quanzhou don't want to be too cozy.

See the statue of Laozi, out of the gate, take a taxi straight to the South Shaolin Temple. Friends interested in Islam, may wish to stop by and visit the Holy Sepulchre again in Lingshan. They all belong to one big area.

The Luoyang Bridge, one of the four most famous bridges in ancient times, was built by Cai Xiang, a calligrapher of the Northern Song Dynasty, and stepped on nearly 1,000 years of stone slabs... can you imagine? If you still have time, go to the Anping Bridge, which is "the longest bridge in the world", it's definitely a worthwhile trip.

There are many other ancient towns around Quanzhou, Chongwu is one of the more popular, I feel more disappointed, if time is tight, there is no need to go.

Chongwu beach

It is said that Yongning Ancient Town is more worth a visit, Xunpu Village can see the oyster shells Alley and the head of the seafood women wearing flower decorations, but the time relationship, can only be said next time.

Third, food

Talking about food, I began to drool at the screen. Quanzhou food, a wide variety of streets and alleys, a lot of old shops. Although some feel general, but definitely have other places can not taste the characteristics.

The Minnesotans call it ancient morning flavor. So food can be on the big and small various food travel programs "tongue on the China" "far away from home", the recent hot sisters also group came here.

"Sister's Lovejoy journey" first stop

The most characteristic is the noodle line paste, add vinegar meat, large intestine or a variety of seafood, standard with a doughnut, early in the morning a big bowl to meet the whole day. Some of the more famous stores are Shui Men Guo Zai's main store, as well as Hou Cheng Noodle Paste, Ting Ting Noodle Paste, West Street Lao Ji Noodle Paste, and so on.

The noodle paste has a different meaning for Quanzhou people, not just for breakfast, but throughout the day, from breakfast to midnight snack.

People in Quanzhou love beef, and there are steakhouses everywhere, but this steak is not a steak, it is a modified version mixed with southern flavors.

The steak at Ah Qiu Steak House

Good Cheng Cai is the most famous, but I still prefer the taste of Ah Qiu, especially the bowl of white rice with a slightly spicy steak broth, the aroma of death. But Hao Cheng Cai's beef bouillon does have a smooth and tender texture, no thanks to the hand-beaten.

Hao Cheng Cai B Set Meal

The first time I ate beef soup was at Mass Beef Snacks, and I exclaimed to KK how the beef could be made so smooth and tender. Its sea oyster omelette is also a must.

Sea oyster fry

There is also a Dongxing beef store, chain, reputation is also good. I've been there twice, beef soup is very general, compared to other stores have a significant gap. A variety of cow hooves, cow tendons, cow's meat and other things are good, but my personal favorite is still dry noodles - thick black sesame sauce and alkaline noodles are entangled with each other, water and milk, slightly sweet taste than Wuhan's hot dry noodles much better. The seasonal vegetables must be ordered, rolled in boiling water, topped with garlic soy sauce, very fragrant, a large portion of only 8 yuan, simply conscience. The first thing you need to do is to get your hands on some of the most popular products and services in the world.

Speaking of fishballs, we can not fail to mention the car Qiaotou Wen A water ball store. If you want to go to Chongwu Ancient Town, don't forget to try the fish rolls. The fried and boiled ones are better than the steamed ones.

Ruifang fish rolls in front of the ancient town

In Quanzhou, all the way to eat all the way to eat four, five, six, seven meals a day without repeating.

Fried vinegar meat, peanut soup, fried vegetable cake, stone flower paste four fruit soup, oyster omelette, soil asparagus jelly, Run cake vegetables, green bean cake, full fried cake, garlic branch, roasted meat dumplings, Lantern, taro mud, taro cake ......

My favorite fried vegetable cake

soil asparagus jelly must be mentioned separately, and what is not a bamboo shoots and so on, but the seaside sandworms. It's not the bamboo shoots or anything like that, but the sandworms from the beach. It is most famous in Anhai, Jinjiang, and has a strong texture, similar to that of small intestines. It is accompanied by a seasoning sauce that has no fishy or unpleasant odor.

Bamboo Shoots Jelly

Bianzhi + Pork Dumplings + Peanut Soup

Ah Fei Frying

After eating the greasy fried food, it's time to have a bowl of the local specialty, Shihua Paste. This is carefully boiled with stone-flower herbs from the seaside reefs and is only found in coastal places.

Pingzheng Hall stone flower paste

Linji Zhengquanmao mung bean cake can be used as a souvenir to bring colleagues to try, the classic mung bean cake 1 packet of only 6 yuan, there are chestnut, taro and other flavors. I personally feel that the sweetness, there is nothing special. Rather, the garlic branch is a bit interesting, fried with garlic twist, you can try. Meng Kee Foods is an old store, I bought a bag when I went back to Beijing.

These snacks in fact do not have to be too specialized to find those Netflix store, a little far from the scenic area, randomly find a local people patronize the store, will not let you down. For example, Peixiang Kangzhuang full fried cake is very hot, but in the depths of the West Street, there is a store specializing in full fried cake, all the locals to buy, the price is just 1/3 of the Kangzhuang, the taste I can not eat the difference.

Of course, some of the old stores or word-of-mouth stores that have survived the passage of time are still worth visiting, such as Qiaotou Vinegar Pork, Zhonglou Meat Dumplings, Chen A Grandma's Meat Dumplings, Bingzhengtang Shihua Paste (more than the Netflix store love ah material good variety of full), Donglai Vegetable Sour, Haisi Jinfeng, Yixing Chicken Feet ......

Donglai Vegetable Sour -Two slices of sweet and sour pickled white radish sandwiched between crushed peanuts and sugar, a different flavor

Haisi Jinfeng's Lanterns, stuffed with crushed peanuts, sesame seeds, you can eat the aroma of lard. Its taro puree is also highly recommended, is a little high in calories.

The specialty of this side is to add peanut sauce to all kinds of things. Whether it's barbecue pork or roast pork dumplings, you can't go wrong with a spoonful of secret peanut sauce. Lei Tiger, who was featured on Life in a Skewer, is a bit far away, so he tried a local Tiexia barbecue.

Auntie Chen's meat dumplings, stirred well before eating

Tiexia BBQ

Yuanfang Xiaolongbao lives up to its name. There are many outlets of Ah Fat Fat Flatbread, but the flavor is really average.

Yuanfang Xiaolongbao filling is really unusual

The local salty rice is also considered a special feature, randomly tasted in a small store, the flavor is not bad, the most surprising is the first time to eat green onion sausage.

Rouge Lane salty restaurant

Five days of meals may have eaten a Stann's ginger duck, Tu Men Street, the main store is the hottest, meal time is always lined up. Far away from the aroma of the nose. A line of casseroles in front of the door, very spectacular. There is also a local name Zhongji salt roasted duck, which is also said to be good.

Listen to a donkey friend said, Quanzhou has a few good private dining hall, very unique. I can't help but see the big eyes and small belly, only next time.

Hanging a leak, after all, time is limited, there are many pavilions did not try, you can dig on their own.

Fourth, references

Website: Quanzhou network

Book: "Quanzhou taste", "Ancient City of Quanzhou"

Himalayan audio program: Xiao Feng said Quanzhou; old Li messy talk | senior tour guide to take you on a tour of Quanzhou

Documentary: CCTV "Faraway Home" of the Belt and Road 19, 20, 21 episodes; "National Archives" of the Legend of the HaiSilk series of 6 episodes; "General History of China", the "HaiSilk" series of 6 episodes; the "General History of China", the "HaiSilk" series of 6 episodes. Series of 6 episodes; The General History of China 73 episodes of the Maritime Silk Road, 74 episodes of Marco Polo and China

V.

Quanzhou is like a southern girl hidden in a deep courtyard, waiting for you to explore.

Thank you for your continued attention to Uncle Peng, and for following him around the world. Reading, traveling, investing in the grasp.