Mr. Shi Nai-an, through the book "Water Margin", more than six hundred drinking sessions (times), describes the related wine industry conditions, the custom of drinking at the time of the year, the drinking etiquette, the fashion of banquets and drinking, the drinking utensils, the wine order, the types of wine brands, etc. Through these environmental and background descriptions, it shows the characteristics of the wine culture in that era, and shows the readers a rich volume of the wine culture in the Song Dynasty.
I. Showing the prosperity of the Song Dynasty dealing in wine
1. The wine industry flourished and hotels were all over the place. During the Tang and Song dynasties, from the downtown of the capital to the mountain villages, there are hotels everywhere, and there are no exceptions where people are rare.
(1), the state capital of large hotels: Da Mingfu "Cuiyun building, upstairs and downstairs, the size of a hundred and ten attic." Pavilion: that is, elegant room. There are hundreds of elegant room of the restaurant, put now, is also a super large-scale hotel.
The twenty-ninth round of "Shi En re-dominated Mengzhou Road, Wu Sung drunkenly beat Jiang Men Shen," wrote "this Happy Forest from the east gate, to go there are fourteen or fifteen miles of fields, counting the family selling alcohol, there are twelve or thirteen." Out of the city to the "market" Happy Forest, along the way there are still many hotels, the city can be imagined.
(2), the county has varying sizes of hotels and restaurants: such as writing Yanggu County, there are Wu Dailang called Yuncheng go with a small hotel, purple stone street corner head of the hotel, He Jiuji uncle's house out of the alleyway hotel, lion bridge under the lion building hotel, etc., everywhere.
(3), the village hotel is quite a lot: such as Lu Zhishen to the Wutai Mountain under a city, about five or seven hundred people, the hotel is dense, away from the blacksmith's home, "less than three or twenty steps," there is a hotel; "line a few steps," and then a hotel; get up! From here out, even walked three or five hotels, are not willing to sell wine to Lu Zhishen, "far from the depths of the apricot blossoms, the city a little end, a pick out the grass broom child to", go there to look at it, but it is a small hotel near the village.
(4), a very small settlement with a hotel: "(Lin Chong) and walked back, looking at a cluster of homes, Lin Chong stayed and looked at the time, see the fence, picking out a grass broom in the open air."
(5), there are hotels in the mountains and fields: Wu Sung "and line not more than a mile, came to a place, not a village, not Guo, but early and saw a wine flag, high pick out in the woods. Came to the trees to see, but is a small hotel selling village mash."
"Lin Chong stepped in the snow only to walk, look at the sky is cold and tight, gradually late, far away from the pillow stream against the lake, a hotel, was snow pressure."
Wu Sung "on a soil ridge, early to see a high mountain in front, born very dangerous. Wu Xing Shi down to the soil Gangzi to come, walked three or five miles, early to see a hotel, a clear stream in front of the door, behind the house are upturned rocks messy mountain."
(6), tiger and wolf-infested mountains and fields also have hotels: such as Jingyanggang not far from "there is a hotel, picking a banner in front of the door, written on the top of the five words: 'three bowls are not Gang'."
(7), the side of the official road not far from the hotel: the book mentioned in many places. "out of the Mengzhou East Gate to come, traveling through the three to five hundred steps, only to see the side of the official road, early to see a wine shop." "Another less than a mile or two, and on the road I saw a hotel."
2, Song Dynasty hotels emphasize the cultural personality of the name brand
The hotel restaurant to the name began to flourish since the Song Dynasty. The Water Margin" in the famous restaurant: Lion House, Yuanyang House, Xunyangjiang House, Happy Forest Hotel, Pipa Pavilion, Fan House, Cuiyun House and so on. Xunyangjiang restaurant "next to the erection of a watchtower, hanging a green cloth wine pennant, written on the 'Xunyangjiang positive library'. Carved eaves outside a plaque, on which Su Dongpo wrote in large letters 'Xunyanglou' three words."
3, the hotel note publicity and advertising planning:
Small and large hotels, in different forms of publicity and notoriety, recruiting customers.
Xunyang House "door side of the red Huabiao columns, two white powder sign, each with five big characters, wrote: 'the world is incomparable wine, the world famous building'." This restaurant asked Su Dongpo, a great cultural celebrity at that time, to inscribe a plaque to improve the cultural taste of the hotel.
Fastwood Hotel: "In front of the eaves stood a lookout pole, on which hung a wine lookout with four big characters saying: 'Heyang Wind and Moon'. When you turn to look, a green oil railing in front of the door, inserted two pin gold flag, five gold characters on each, written: 'Drunken Qiankun big, pot of sun and moon long'."
Two, depicting the perfect service of the Song Dynasty dealing in liquor industry conditions
1, to provide comfortable and pleasant drinking places and facilities
1, to meet the needs of customers, there are different grades of restaurants and hotels, each with a different drinking places, such as "loft children" (single room seat), the seclusion of drinking is guaranteed.
These are the most important of all.
(2), to provide customers with the conditions to express their feelings
Hotel four white walls, the hotel is equipped with pen and ink, diners can be free to write poems and inscriptions. In the Xunyang River building, Song Jiang "up to play, see the whitewash wall more than the ancestor of the inscription", "take the wine, grinding ink, dipped in the pen full, go to the whitewash wall will write ...... ".
(3), there are different grades of a variety of alcohol
Book written in the general wine: wine pulp, vegetarian wine, meat wine, color wine, social wine, social brew, village wine, village mash, thatched white wine, village mash water white wine, muddy white wine, meat and clear white wine, white wine; high-grade wine are: "Blue Bridge Wind and Moon", "Jade Pot Spring", "through the bottle incense (out of the door to pour)", old wine, blue and white porcelain wine, agar jelly, yellow seal imperial wine, official wine, wine and so on.
(4), drinking facilities, wine luxury
Song Dynasty aristocrats and large hotels in the wine to pay attention to luxury, gold and silver wine more than the previous generation, more than the use of gold and silver wine, often to "two" calculation.
Palace feasts and banquets are extravagant: "feast open tortoiseshell, seven treasures embedded in gold; furnace column unicorn, hundred and incense dragon brain repair. Amber bells between glass marigolds, agate cups of coral. Red Ying plate, high heap of luan liver, purple jade dish, ......"
Tokyo famous prostitute Li Shishi entertained Song Jiang and so on, "Hitch by wine, sweet food, all with ingots, set a spring table. Persuaded to finish the wine, told the milk will be a small gold cup round sieve."
The book mentions wine containers: wine sea, silver wine sea, wine jar, silver pot, wine gourd, etc..
Drinking utensils include: embedded treasure gold flower bell, glass marigold, amber bell, agate cup, coral, gold marigold, table marigold, marigold, Zixia cup, gold cup, wine cup, persuade cup, reward bell, coconut ladle and so on. "persuade the cup", toast with a cup, larger than the general drinking cup; "persuade the plate", toast, persuade with a plate; "reward the bell", "the governor looked at the Great joy, called to fetch wine, a series of ten reward bell."
Warming wine with: "spin ladle", "turner", "note" and so on.
2, to provide customers with convenient and thoughtful service
1, the service staff attitude is warm, thoughtful service. "The bartender answered, went down to fetch a bowl and put it in front of Li Kui, sifted the wine on one side, spread down the dishes on the other ...... bartender poured the wine, and even sifted it five or seven times."
(2) Customers can bring their own food and buy only wine to eat. Li Kui bought a package of jujube cake in the marketplace. Tang Long "followed Li Kui until he came to see Gong Sun Sheng in the hotel. ...... Li Kui took out the jujube cake and asked the seller to organize it. The three of them drank a few cups of wine together, ate the date cake, and counted to pay back the money for the wine."
(3), customers can bring their own raw materials, the hotel on behalf of doing; or inns also sell wine, meat, grain and rice, guests can do it themselves. Such as Yang Xiong, Shi Xiu, Shi Qian cast on the road to Liangshan, the day late at night when the hostel a guest house. The shopkeeper asked if they were eating, and Shiqian said, "We'll take care of ourselves." Then he made his own food.
The shopkeeper said: "Qinghua porcelain wine and chicken, are that Erlang family since the future, only borrow my store to sit and eat wine."
Song Jiang, Zhang Shun and others at the Pipa Pavilion Tavern. Fresh fish taken by Zhang Shun, "Order the bartender to make a spicy soup of one tail of fish, steam one tail with wine, and tell the bartender to chopped fish."
(4), customers drink the rest of the wine, the hotel on behalf of custody. Such as sitting on the floor to eat wine, that is, their own food and wine sent in the hotel, go with the take with the food. Wu Sung in Mengzhou killed Zhang Dujian, run to Qingzhou, a high mountain on the road, meet "a clear stream in front of the door, behind the house are upturned rocks messy mountain" of the hotel, Kong Ming, Kong Liang will be sent to put the "blue porcelain wine" and chicken, please shopkeepers to do well, and then come to eat.
3, improve the hotel's functions and services
(1), singing and dancing
Song Jiang, Chai Jin, etc. "is playing from the front of the Fan Lou through, heard the upstairs sheng spring raucous ears, drums and music in the sky, the lights stare at the eyes, tourists like ants. Song Jiang, Chai Jin also went up to the Fan Lou, looking for a loft to sit down, take some food and wine, also in the upstairs lights and drink."
There are "more wine seat child", "catch seat", string restaurant singing, in order to seek customer reward.
(2), courtesan drinking
Song Jiang, Chai Jin and Li Shishi sitting and drinking: "But Li Shishi said some marketplace handsome words, are Chai Jin to answer, Yan Qing stood on the side and coaxing to make fun. Li Shishi low singing Su. ...... Li Shishi sings Su Dongpo's words about going east on the Yangtze River.
"
"Li Shishi told Yan Qing to blow the cock, serving His Holiness drink, a few moments and dialed a ruan, and then told Yan Qing to sing the song."
"After the ceremony, please enter the rear hall, set up a feast, water and land have. The officials of the army will bring in wine, the generals of the army will pass the cups, the songs and dances will fill the banquet, Hu Jia will rave to the ears, Yan Ji and beautiful women will play the music of the army, Capricorn Drums and Ocarinas, and Hu Xuan Man Dance."
Three, depicting the status of wine in festival folklore
The Chinese nation to the Qin and Han Dynasties, festival customs are basically stereotyped, people reunion feasts on New Year's Day, especially on New Year's Day (Spring Festival), the Lantern Festival, Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, Chung Yeung Festival and other major festivals, the etiquette of drinking, the varieties of wine, the location of the banquet and the content, the form of the different, has become a stereotype.
1, focusing on the form and etiquette of the New Year's Day public feast. Such as Xuanhe five years in the Song Jiang camp on New Year's Day and Song Jiang led the army to eliminate the Wang Qing, return to the capital on New Year's Day feast.
2, focusing on the fun of the Lantern Festival, generally for the family feast. Such as Song Jiang in the Huarong cottage in the folk Lantern Festival and the description of the capital Lantern Festival, portrayed as immersive.
3, the celebration of the Dragon Boat Festival. The Duanyang Festival family feasts of the powerful nobles like Liang Zhongshu and the Duanyang Festival in Song Jiang's military camp are written separately.
4. Mid-Autumn Festival with moonlight feast. Such as the folk Mid-Autumn Festival in Shi Jin's manor and the Mid-Autumn Festival in the official Zhang Dujian's residence.
5. The Chongyang Festival characterized by the traditional year. A detailed description of the Chongyang Festival in the Liangshan fortress.
4. Detailed description of traditional drinking etiquette and customs
1. Seats at banquets are arranged with etiquette and seating is clearly defined. It is an accurate and detailed description of the banquet seating arrangements between superior and subordinate levels, between guests and hosts, between friends, between family members, as well as between kings and ministers.
2. Chinese customs and rituals are described in great detail. Such as alliances, sacrifices, receiving, sending off, and even before the prisoner's execution, with a bowl of long resting rice, the custom of goodbye wine, and so on.
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I, the depth of the tea science
Song tea science compared with the Tang Dynasty tea science, more in depth. Due to the tea industry to the south, tribute tea to Jian'an Beiyuan for the most, so a lot of tea researchers in the research focus also tends to build tea, especially on the research of Beiyuan tribute tea, both deep and refined, in the academic topics formed a strong era and regional color. After these studies in the form of writings handed down for today's Song Dynasty tea history, tea culture research, provides informative information.
In the Song Dynasty tea writings, the more famous ones are Ye Qingchen's "Description of tea cooking sketches", Cai Xiang's "Tea Records", Song Zian's "Dongxi Tea Trial Records", Shen Kuo's "Tea Laws of the current dynasty", and Zhao Ji's "Daguan Tea Theory".
The authors of tea in the Song Dynasty, there is the Song Huizong Zhao Ji as the head of the country, there are court ministers and literary Ding Pian, Cai Xiang, there is the famous natural scientist Shen Kuo, and there are the village Confucianism, the scholar, and even to this day do not know his real name of the hermit "trial of the old man". From the identity of these authors, the Song Dynasty tea research talent and research level are very rich. In the research content, including the comparison of tea origin, cooking tea technology, tea type system, the relationship between raw materials and tea, tea drinking utensils, tea process and appreciation, tea quality inspection and evaluation, Beiyuan Tribute Tea name and so on.
Song tea science because of the more focused on building tea, so in depth, systematic compared with the Tang Dynasty have new developments.
Second, the court of the royal family's strong advocacy
The development of tea culture in the Song Dynasty, to a large extent by the influence of the court of the royal family. Whether its cultural characteristics, or cultural forms, are more or less with an aristocratic color. At the same time, tea culture in the category of elegance, has been more full of development. The court of the royal family's strong advocacy is mainly manifested in the following aspects: First, the feudal system of rituals on the tribute to tea excellence, which led to a variety of ways to drink tea with tea. Song Dynasty tribute tea since Cai Xiang as Fujian transit, through the refined reformulation, in the form and quality of further development, known as "small dragon cake tea". Ouyang Xiu said this tea "the value of gold two, but gold can have, and tea can not be obtained", Song Renzong most recommended this small dragon ball, treasured, even if it is the prime minister close to the ministers, but also do not casually give, only every year in the southern suburb of the ritual sacrifice to the sky and the earth, in the Privy Council of four ministers are fortunate to be **** with the share of a group, and these ministers are often not able to taste their own, dedicated to filial piety to their parents or transfer to a good friend. This tea before giving ministers, first by the courtesans with gold foil cut into dragons and phoenixes, flowers and plants pattern pasted on it, known as "embroidered tea".
Three, a variety of tea drinking activities flourished
Song Dynasty is the most active era of tea drinking activities in history. In order to tribute tea all the way out of the "embroidery tea", "fighting tea"; as the literati to entertain themselves with "tea"; as the folk teahouse, restaurant tea drinking is very colorful.
Song folk tea drinking is most typical of the Southern Song Dynasty in Lin'an (now Hangzhou). When the Southern Song Dynasty built the capital of Lin'an, due to the exchange and integration of the tea drinking culture of the North and South, as the center of the teahouse culture came into prominence. Now the teahouse in the Southern Song Dynasty is known as the tea house. According to Wu Zimu "Dream Liang Record" Volume 16, Lin'an (now Hangzhou) tea house in the style of imitation of Bianjing City in the tea and wine shop layout, the tea house hanging celebrities paintings and calligraphy, display flower racks, inserted with seasonal flowers. Throughout the year, "selling strange tea and different soups, selling seven treasures in winter, deep-fried noodle cake, onion tea ......", and in the evening, they also launched a mobile car store, which should be used to meet the needs of tourists' tea orders. At that time, Lin'an city, tea trading day and night, even in the winter snow, after three nights there are still people to carry bottles to sell tea.
Hangzhou tea shop is divided into many levels to adapt to different consumers, generally as a place for tea tea tea store, customers, "more than rich children, the Division under the straight and so on will gather, learning to play musical instruments, on the teaching of the song to earn and so on". At that time, this is known as the "license". Some of the tea house, "this is not to tea tea for the industry, but will be the reason, more for tea gold ear. Sometimes referred to as "humane tea house", some "specializing in the five good fight gathered, but also all lines of work to sell the meeting will be gathered line old", sometimes referred to as "city to buy". And then there are some tea house, specialized in scholarly period of friends dating place, such as the famous "Cuju ball tea house", "Jiang review tea house" and so on. There is also a tea house called "flower tea house", upstairs, specializing in placing prostitutes to attract customers, these tea houses called tea house, actually for pornography.
"Embroidery tea" art is a secret game in the Palace. According to the Southern Song Dynasty Zhou Mi's "Qian Chun Feng Shi records" in the early spring of each year, Beiyuan tributes to the first outline of the tea listed in the palace, the tea packaging is very beautiful, **** have a hundred quart, are made with the bird's tongue water buds. It is said that one can brew several cups. Probably too precious for the sake of the general can not drink, so a kind of ornamental play tea art came into being. This embroidery tea method, according to Zhou Mi recorded as: "the ban in the big celebration, then with a large gold-plated, five-color rhyming fruit cluster dragon and phoenix, known as the embroidered tea, but pleasing to the eye. There are also specializing in its work, outsiders rare".
The other is called "leakage of shadow spring" play tea art, is the first viewing, after tasting." Leakage spring" play appeared in the Five Dynasties or the end of the Tang Dynasty, to the Song Dynasty, has been as a more fashionable way of drinking tea. Song dynasty Tao Gu "Qingyilu", a more detailed record of this practice: "leakage shadow spring method, with openwork paper pasted to the marigold, grits tea and remove the paper, pseudo-floral body. Don't Ly meat for the leaves, pine nuts, duck feet and other treasures for the stamens, boiling soup point stirring." Embroidery tea" and "leakage shadow spring" is to dry tea-based modeling art, relative to this, "fighting tea" and "split tea" is a tea brewing art.
"Fighting tea" is a method of comparing the quality of tea with each other, has a strong utilitarian, it was first applied to the selection of tribute tea and market price grade competition. A "fight" word, has summarized the intensity of this activity, and thus "fighting tea" is also known as "tea war".
If the "fighting tea" has a strong utilitarian color, then the "share tea" has a kind of elegant literati breath." Split tea" is also known as "tea theater", "soup theater". Good at sharing tea, you can use the water in the tea bowl veins, creating many good changes in painting and calligraphy to, from these bowl patterns, viewers and creators can get a lot of enjoyment.