You can almost see the name of Hangzhou under any article discussing "gourmet desert". I think that people who say "Hangzhou has no delicious food" may mean "Hangzhou has no (special) delicious food". As the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, Hangzhou naturally has the remains of Lu in the Central Plains. Noodles are the same, and the "chop suey" style of Piar Chuan is not as delicate as the Soviet noodles in Wuyue culture. The so-called "Hangbang Cuisine" also blends the heritages of Susichang, Jiahu, Ningshao and the Central Plains around it. For example, common sauced ducks, smoked fish and braised pork have more overlap with local dishes in thick oil and red sauce and Suzhou Creek; For example, fried stinky tofu, steamed dried pork with plums, glutinous rice and sliced bacon. Ningshao cuisine also borrowed "smelly". The use of vinegar fish, pepper and acetic acid in the West Lake has left a brand of the Central Plains, which cannot be erased.

Of course, if you look deeper, you can trace back to the influence of anhui cuisine, such as smoked ham tofu, pickled tofu and the "Yipin Pot" that appears from time to time on the menu, all of which were brought to the river with Huizhou merchants. All kinds of dishes from Hangzhou to Shanghai. Therefore, it is difficult for you to define what "hangzhou dishes" is. In my opinion, this is a fusion food formed by Hangzhou people based on the pursuit of freshness and seasonality, and then draws lessons from the styles of the above places. This can be regarded as following the description of Lin 'an City in the Southern Song Dynasty's Dream of Liang Lu: there is no difference between the north and the south because of the chaotic diet. Integration means innovation. In the Southern Song Dynasty, Lin 'an was a world-famous "gourmet capital", and all kinds of pasta, snacks, condiments and cooking techniques were developing by leaps and bounds. The economic base determines the prosperity of diet. With money, restaurants and snacks have more room for development, and night markets have become commonplace from here.

Hangzhou is also the darling of the capital. As the Internet base camp, the chain catering industry is also in full swing. I remember the first time I ate green tea and grandma's house in Beijing. I was surprised at its high cost performance. Later, when I went to Hangzhou, I realized that this is a very mature business model, including Xinbai Road and Nongtang, which are "inexpensive, with good environment, pleasant dishes and superior geographical location". I have been visiting such restaurants for some time, especially when you are pushed and broken by the turbulent crowd in the West Lake. When you see the large French windows with transparent windows, you should not be too grateful. However, like most chain restaurants, the satisfaction it brings you is more a sense of control over "how much you pay for the same service" than satisfying the curious taste buds.

After eating for the first time, the taste buds did not leave any special memory points-once the recipes were mastered, the dishes in these restaurants seemed to have a sense of repetition. Therefore, Hangzhou made me consider going back to eat, or going to those cheap and practical restaurants.