The teapot is stacked neatly and steamy, and the original flavor of steamed chicken is scattered in the air, like a food war filled with smoke. The master stood by and steamed for nearly four hours, never leaving. Every repeated steaming, ordinary waiting, and every humble process bear the charm and integrity of this pot of steamed chicken.
A dish is a kung fu.
In the tempering of time, the steam pot chicken bears the burden of more than 200 years of history. Inheriting is not only the taste in Yunnan people's memory, but also the continuation of the quality of simple craftsmen in cooking and cooking. Eat drink man woman traveled everywhere, and some people got unique biographies. Yu Haoran was one of them.
We all miss and stick to the voice in our hearts, and miss the taste in the fields and memories in foreign countries. The Spring Festival is full of flavor. Sina Yunnan walked into the old Kunming in memory and talked with Yu Haoran, the boss of Fuzhao, a famous food company in Yunnan, about an indispensable dish in the New Year's Eve dinner. The form of the New Year's Eve dinner is changing, and the fragrance is indestructible, but the taste of the year in memory will never change.
"There is only one reunion dinner, and the atmosphere of reunion is very important." In the catering industry for many years, what Yu Haoran misses most is the New Year's Eve dinner cooked by the elderly at home. Those simple days when you can wear new clothes and get lucky money are lasting childhood memories for Haoran.
"If the dishes in a place represent the character of a local person, they will eat anything that grows on the soil, and then gradually form local food and dishes. Diet is a memory. "
In Yunnan cuisine, most of them are simple to make and cooked in the most direct way, which preserves the original flavor of the ingredients. This may be the "gourmet memory" that Yu Haoran wants to preserve. "From a pot of authentic steamed chicken, the simple and heavy feeling can often reflect that Yunnan people are not good at expressing themselves and do not know how to package and market their own' mountain gods'." He has always believed that food is full of vitality and needs something to remember to carry. What carries this generation may be the hometown flavor known as "Yunnan cuisine".
"Cultural catering is not a profound accumulation of culture. It needs the infiltration of humanity and the participation of history. You can learn more about the cultural and historical connotation of Yunnan through a meal. This is the benign development of the traditional catering industry. " In 2002, when Sichuan-Guangdong cuisine was booming and Yunnan cuisine was declining, Yu Haoran, who had the dream of starting a business, opened the "Fuzhaolou" with only 10 small tables. At that time, I picked up the golden signboard of the traditional Yunnan cuisine of my ancestors; At this time, the local authentic Yunnan cuisine restaurant in Fuzhaolou won the hearts of diners.
On the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month in Ding You's year, it was a rare day for Yu Haoran to draw a picture. The portraits of the door god and the auspicious boy must have been hand-painted, and his own flavor of the year became one of the most striking visual elements of Fuzhao Building.
Yu Haoran is a cultural celebrity in Yunnan catering industry. Writing and drawing is his biggest hobby on weekdays. Therefore, it is often criticized by colleagues in the catering industry as "doing nothing." In his early years, Yu Haoran was born in painting. He first engaged in advertising, and later changed his career track. He chose to do catering. He wants to be an old shop, an old shop that makes authentic Yunnan cuisine.
In Haoran's body, there are not only literati integrity that runs through his expression temperament, but also peace and insight close to the market. In his cuisine, there are no absolutely standardized dishes, and he gives the chef the greatest freedom and enthusiasm for innovation; In the inherited food memory, he is close to the market culture of old Kunming, presenting a noisy neighborhood atmosphere in Fuzhaolou, giving diners a spiritual experience of "being in their hometown"; In life, he traveled all over the wilderness, leaving some poems and short sentences as essays on his journey ... "Life needs some flexibility to keep more human things." It is Yu Haoran's open-mindedness and flexibility that make diners gain more food culture experience from Fuzhaolou.
When the traditional model of old shops can't meet the needs of urban development, the catering business model changes, and people begin to move towards more concentrated businesses, Yu Haoran begins to try some small shops in business districts. In addition to the slow and steady pace of the traditional Fuzhao Building, it has been expanding at the rate of adding one store every year. Up to now, a large-scale chain catering enterprise with 9 stores has been formed, and Fuzhaolou has also launched specialty stores in South Asia and Wanda in Kunming business circle.
"Yunnan cuisine should be tossed and tested in this sea to prove the vitality of Yunnan cuisine, explore the development path of Fuzhaolou, show the charm of Yunnan cuisine food culture, and better refine the courage of Yunnan cuisine to go out." Innovation is for better development. For many years, we have adhered to authentic Yunnan flavor and Yunnan local market. Has Yu Haoran considered promoting Fuzhao Building to the whole country? The answer is yes.
He is open-minded and does not stick to specific cooking techniques. He hopes to convey Yunnan's food culture and elements: "Yunnan cuisine can be unique and innovative, and Yunnan cuisine needs to go to the public."
Where there are China people, the format of traditional Chinese food will not die out. Because people talk about "love" in China, young people can't avoid going home for the New Year. That sense of ceremony will lead young people to maturity, and when they grow up and get married, they will still come back to the round table. This is China's idea of reunion. "Even if the years change, Yu Haoran firmly believes that the traditional and unforgettable flavor will never disappear, and no matter how far people go, they will eventually return to the round table.
The round table is the home of China people for the New Year, and the boiling pot symbolizes the prosperous reunion, and the steamed chicken is "virtuous". In a round place, this pot of chicken, a New Year's Eve dinner and a party are all a kind of ceremony, all for inheriting and continuing a taste, a memory and, of course, a friendship.
? -Remember New Year's Eve in Yu Haoran?