At present, many waiters in restaurants are children from other places. When the noodles are cooked, they are served together with the noodles, and all the noodles are poured into the noodle bowl. This is not right. You don't know what people like to eat and what they don't eat, so you put them all in a bowl. You shouldn't pour all the sauces into a bowl. Everyone has different tastes, so you should let the guests put them by themselves. It's impolite for Beijingers to smash dishes and bowls.

When I stepped into the gate of Zengguang Road Store in Haiwanju, I first saw the doorman bow, asked a few people first, and then began to report: "Guest X" and "Little Two pours tea". The sound was so loud that the whole restaurant echoed, and the first-time visitor was surprised by carelessness. Then you see Xiao Er coming from all corners, wearing a white silk shirt and black pants, and saying, "Here you are!" " Before the sound falls, a waiter wearing a black melon hat will take you to the dining seat. This series of cries first makes you feel that you are in the old Beijing shop, and you have tasted the leisurely and carefree taste of old Beijing before you eat it.

The walls around the restaurant are also hung with a number of scrolls drawn by the famous folk painter Sheng Xishan, reappearing the customs of old Beijing, including the style of famous streets such as Yandai Xiejie, Xianyukou and Dashilan in the 1931s, and the scene of selling dried fruits, pot cakes and kidney bean cakes along the street that year.

The waiters are all called Xiao Er

Here, the waiters who greet and shuttle are all young men, and the guests always use the old Beijing address "Xiao Er". The second child in Haiwanju has a clear division of labor: the one wearing a small melon skin hat is the usher; The person with a white towel on his shoulder is responsible for pouring tea, ordering food and checking out the bill for the guests; Specially served in Tsing Yi.

After reading it for a long time, I finally understand why the waiters are all men. When a guest is served Zhajiang Noodles at meal time, a "second boy" has to serve four bowls of noodles at most, plus the dishes and ingredients, and he has to shuttle through the crowded crowd. It's like an acrobatic spectacle. You can't do this job without a certain arm strength.

The name "Xiao Er" is very kind. Just call your voice, and all the "Xiao Er" will gather around and wait for your command. Some guests deliberately opened their throats at the dining table to greet two more "Xiao Er", which often attracted the "Xiao Er" to come forward together, and the people next to them looked at them cheerfully.

■ Taste Workshop

Fried Sauce is the most important

Mr. Guan from Haiwanju told us that the essence of authentic old Beijing Zhajiang Noodles is fried sauce. First of all, the yellow sauce you choose must be good. You should use the yellow sauce produced by regular famous brand manufacturers. Their soy sauce is of good quality. When you make yellow sauce, you add white flour instead of stick flour, otherwise the sauce will be easy to lump together after cooling, and it is not easy to mix. Secondly, when frying sauce, the temperature and ingredients should be well mastered, the temperature should be uniform, the proportion of fried sauce must be appropriate, the diced meat should be both fat and thin, and the yellow sauce should not be put too much, so that the fried sauce is delicious.

In the past, old Beijingers used to fry Zhajiang Noodles with pigs, which tasted delicious when it was hot, but once the lard was cold, the sauce solidified and could not be used. What's more, people's intestines and stomach are no longer suitable for eating lard fried sauce, and now they are fried with salad oil, which is healthier to eat.

There are 8 kinds of dishes, including bean sprouts, celery, green beans, shredded cucumber, shredded radish, shredded cabbage, green garlic and garlic. It's so refreshing to eat. Old Beijing's favorite food is shredded cabbage. Before cooking, blanch it with boiling water and take it out to eat with noodles.

gluten is good but not hard

There are several kinds of noodles in Zhajiang Noodles. Small bowls of diced meat, small bowls of eggs and single eggplant noodles are all 8 yuan/set, and small bowls of diced meat and eggplant are RMB 11/set. After consulting Xiao Er, we ordered authentic small bowls of diced meat and fried noodles.

when one end of the second bowl comes up, a few small dishes, white is white, green is green, and red is red, are really eye-catching and tender. Xiao er helped us mix the sauce with the side dishes and noodles, and we wolfed it down. You can't eat Zhajiang Noodles too gently, or you won't taste it.

This noodle is ice-cold and refreshing, and the smell of fried sauce is all on the noodle, which is fragrant but not greasy, and it is not as salty as expected. The noodle is very stiff, which makes you feel like you can't swallow it in your throat, but it is not hard and slippery, and you can go in at once. Occasionally, the shredded vegetables are crisp and slightly sweet, which is in sharp contrast to the gluten of noodles, which is not hard, soft and not bad. It is fragrant and refreshing when eaten directly.

■ Relevant data

Selling more than 2,111 bowls a day

Zhajiang Noodles, which is home to sea bowls, can sell more than 2,111 bowls a day, which shows that the level is very unusual. A young man who specializes in mixing and rolling flour pointed to 51 kg bags of special flour and said that he almost had to mix 8 bags of flour every day. The dough here is all made by hand, and the young man who is one meter eight is a dough master. I start to work at six o'clock every morning to make noodles, and I make 411 kilograms of noodles a day. It is estimated that no one can do this job except him.

one pot of water can cook at most 3 noodles

Zhajiang Noodles is most afraid of boiling dozens of bowls of noodles in one pot. If the water is boiled too much, the noodles will be mushy and the soup will not be drinkable. Cooking noodles should be boiled "three times", that is, add water for three times to boil, without covering the lid, otherwise the noodles will be stewed. Cooked noodles are usually soaked in hot water, and the noodles are not easy to stick.

People who eat noodles here like cold water in summer, which makes them cool and refreshing, while hot water is needed in winter, which makes them warm. Real old Beijingers like to eat "pot pick (three sounds)", that is, the noodles are cooked and directly picked out of the pot without water. But this kind of boiled noodles needs to be served with sauce immediately, and it can't be put, otherwise it will be easy to lump and taste bad after a long time.

Yiwanju Old Beijing Zhajiang Noodles

Address: No.22 Pufang Road, Fengtai District (there are two chain stores)

Mysterious customer: Miss Liu

Noodles: 8 yuan/bowl, 3 Liang/bowl, noodle soup, handmade noodles, which are too cold according to the customer's requirements.

sauce: the diced meat is relatively large, but not much. The taste is salty, sweet and a little salty. Add sauce and more money, 3 yuan/bowl.

noodle code: 6 kinds of

shredded radish, green garlic, bean sprouts, shredded cucumber, minced celery and green beans, which are relatively fresh, but the green garlic is somewhat dry.

service: there is garlic and vinegar on the table, and there is no free tea. The ordering is slow, but the serving speed is fast. The waiter dressed in old Beijing with white jacket and black pants is cleaner and the service attitude is better. You can swipe your card. There is a paid parking lot opposite the noodle restaurant. The bathroom is relatively clean and equipped with hand sanitizer and toilet paper.

As soon as I entered the noodle restaurant, I looked up and saw a few palace lanterns descending along the blue brick stone steps, and a red painted door just crossed the threshold. I heard a loud cry from the head of the hall, "Three, please come inside!" . Walking into the lobby, the square table, long benches and wooden fans are separated, and the guys in white jackets and black pants walk through them. Before they are seated, the thick Beijing flavor has already come to us.

When you open the menu, besides my favorite diced meat Zhajiang Noodles and egg Zhajiang Noodles, there are 23 kinds of noodles with noodles and fried noodles. Besides, you can also find various Beijing snacks such as inby with bean sauce, fried cakes with cream, snowballing usury, Aiwowo and tripe.

Haiwanju

Address: No.11, Zengguang Road, Haidian District (there are 4 chain stores)

Mystery customer: Miss Xu

Noodles: each bowl has to have 3 Liang, and each bowl has 8 yuan. Send noodle soup.

sauce: diced meat is fat and thin, and there is enough oil, which is enough for diners with light taste. It tastes all right. Some heavy-mouthed diners can have another bowl of sauce for free.

dough code: 7 kinds of

green beans, shredded Chinese cabbage, shredded cucumber, shredded radish, diced celery, green garlic and bean sprouts, which are relatively fresh.

service: when the guys in haiwanju talk to customers, they all lean forward 31 degrees, which is good. But there is one drawback. When I asked for packing, the boy brought an environmentally friendly lunch box, but he didn't care about packing. The tea here is free, but there are no free chopsticks, only disposable chopsticks and wet towel sets for one yuan. You can use credit cards. You can park in front of the door.

"Here you are!" The waiter greeted him with courtesy, and the business of Haiwanju was quite hot. There are many kinds of snacks. The sour, sweet and cold fried red fruit tastes good, but a small bowl in 7 yuan is a little expensive. Zhajiang Noodles was quickly sent to the front in the slow and leisurely tone of Beijing Qinshu, banging ... The dishes were smashed and crunchy.

King Zhajiang Noodles of Old Beijing

Address: No.29, Chongwenmenwai Street (there are 4 chain stores)

Mystery customer: Mr. Deng

Noodles: 3 Liang or so, 8 yuan, Jin Dao, handmade noodles, delivering noodle soup, which is too cold according to customers' requirements.

sauce: it tastes ordinary and salty, and the meat inside does not exceed 5 pieces.

noodle code: 8 kinds of

cabbage, shredded radish, shredded cucumber, diced celery, diced lentils, soaked soybeans, soaked green beans and bean sprouts are relatively fresh.

service: there is no free tea, and a bowl of vinegar with Laba garlic is given. You will be ignored after ordering the food except shouting loudly into the store. Unless you catch a passerby now, you can hardly call anyone. The store is spacious, and the surrounding atmosphere is still a little old-fashioned. There are many kinds of snacks, but I don't think it's delicious. The mustard pile is 6 yuan, not bad. You can't swipe your card, and there are about more than 11 parking spaces.

The storefront looks a little old, and the interior feels spacious, but in other aspects, there is always a feeling that the store is bullying customers. What impressed me the most was that the guys shouted loudly when they entered the store (their shouts really scared the foreigners who were eating next to them). There is no free tea, so you have to pay immediately after ordering. Guys, hide aside. You can't hear me. I think the food is small and salty, and the guys say, "That's the taste"! The dishes were served quickly, but the dishes were poured into the bowl like a plate, and the people on the table turned their heads and left. It's okay. The mustard pile is not bad.

Tianpengju

Address: No.2, C, East Street, Sanlihe (there are two chain stores)

Mysterious customer: Mr. Meng

Noodles: 321 bowls, 11 yuan, handmade noodles, gluten, noodle soup.

sauce: it's delicious, with fat diced meat and moderate saltiness.

face code: 8 kinds of

minced Toona sinensis, green beans, shredded Chinese cabbage, cucumber strips, shredded radish, bean sprouts, minced celery and green garlic, fresh.

service: there is no free tea, a pot of tea in 5 yuan, fresh garlic and vinegar, a safe child seat, and parking in front of the door. The service attitude is average.

The owner of this store is the first one to open Zhajiang Noodles in Beijing, and the business of Fandian is good. His buddies are different, with more women and fewer men. There are many snacks. Fried enema, pink fish, fried small yellow croaker and stewed ribs are good. The dough code is very fresh, and the fried sauce tastes good. I wish I could be more enthusiastic, man. (Reporter Zhang Yun) Zhajiang Noodles, noodles with sesame sauce and noodles with gravy

Northerners mainly use pasta, such as steamed bread, rolls, steamed stuffed buns, jiaozi, wonton, pancakes and noodles. But when Beijingers mention "noodles", they mean noodles. Noodles mean "longevity". As the saying goes, "life has three sides", that is, "washing three sides", "longevity noodles" and "connecting three sides". Three days after the baby is born, there is a ceremony of washing three times. Eating three times wishes the baby "a long life"; Eating "longevity noodles" as usual on your birthday is called "picking longevity", which means "longevity is long";

The first sacrifice on the third day of a person's death is called "receiving three sides", and entertaining guests with "receiving three sides" shows that the feelings of mourning for the deceased are endless.

In daily life, Beijingers prefer to eat noodles, and they have formed a fixed routine. Residents in the city generally only eat pulled noodles and hand-cut noodles. Hand-pulled noodles are rolled into large pieces with a rolling pin on the dough table, sliced with a knife in the right hand, and rolled to the left with the left hand, so as to roll dry noodles to avoid adhesion. Finally, they are saved into a handful, picked up by both hands, cut off the joint between the two ends, and immediately put into a boiling water pot; The cut surface is to roll the reconciled white flour into thin slices, sprinkle with dry flour and cut it into filaments. In addition, there are also wide "board strips". After cooking, there are different "toppings", which can be divided into the following categories:

Zhajiang Noodles: The common one is diced pork fried sauce. Pure is semi-fat diced pork with onion, ginger, garlic, etc., fried in oil pan, added with yellow sauce, covered with pot cover and simmered for 11 minutes. At this time, the diced meat was covered with yellow sauce, and the skin of the meat was red and bright. The four flavors were diced pork tenderloin fried sauce with three fresh (shrimp, tenderloin and magnolia slices) fried sauce, and other vegetarian products such as osmanthus (egg) fried sauce, fried tofu diced sauce and roasted eggplant diced sauce, which were oily but not greasy. Old Beijingers eat Zhajiang Noodles. In cold weather, they pay attention to eating hot food, which is called "pot picking" (no water at all). In hot weather, they have eaten the water, but the soup has to be grated. According to the season, with a variety of seasonal dishes, it is called "comprehensive code".

In early spring, use bean sprouts with their heads cut off and their tails cut off, radish tassels with only two cotyledons, and pour the remaining Laba vinegar. In the deep spring, put flowers and pepper seeds in the sauce, which is called pepper sauce, and the flour code is green garlic, Toona sinensis bud, pickled vegetables, green bean mouth, small radish tassel and silk (strips). In early summer, fresh garlic, blanched fresh peas, shredded cucumber, shredded lentils, and leeks are used as noodles. Sesame sauce noodles: sesame sauce noodles, which is a light meal for old Beijingers in summer. When the noodles are cooked, take them out of the pot and soak them in cold water, then pour sesame sauce (salt, mixed with water), pepper oil (pepper oil fried with fragrant oil is put into soy sauce while it is hot), rice vinegar, and then add shredded pickled carrots, green garlic, shredded radish, pickled vegetables, Chinese toon buds and so on. It tastes like grilled cake and bean jelly.

noodles with gravy: commonly known as "noodles with gravy". When people hold red and white weddings, if they use "fried noodles" to entertain relatives and friends, they will all use noodles with gravy. Bitternization is usually done with boiled pork soup or mutton in a wok, which is fragrant. There is also a soup that does not thicken, and the antler is added to the soup to become the pouring juice of the clear soup, which is called "Yue Er Lu".

that is, you want to be understood, respected and recognized.

You are a part of the hotel, and you represent the whole hotel. Guests don't care whether you have worked here for ten years or ten days. What they need is high-level service.

no matter which pastry you taste, you can appreciate the essence of the noodles and the unique flavor of the pasta culture.

since its opening, business has been booming and customers are constantly flowing. The enterprise launched the business slogan of "24 hours, 365 days without rest"! Pay attention to create a dining environment, express cultural connotation, and integrate into the fashion of today's society, so that people can eat culture, taste and feel at home. It is a common place for friends to meet, lovers to date and classmates to get together.

noodles

1, Haohe Yangchun noodles

2, green vegetable noodles

3, poached egg noodles

4, braised egg noodles

5, tiger skin egg noodles

6, scallion noodles

7, mushroom and Chinese cabbage noodles

8, spiced chicken noodles. Spiced beef noodles

15, Langshan Zhajiang Noodles

16, Golden Triangle pork chop noodles

17, Xishi Popo Rouyuan noodles

18, braised beef noodles

19, Yipin pork intestines noodles

21, tiger skin noodles

21, and slippery shrimp noodles

. In ancient times, it was called "soup cake", "luxurious noodles", "vegetarian cake", "boiled cake", "water-induced cake" and "no support". The word "noodles" came later.

according to research, Chinese noodles originated in the Han dynasty and have a history of more than 2111 years. At that time, all pasta was called "cake" and cooked in soup.