gourmet Hangzhou (episode 7)

CCTV International (11: 13 on October 21, 2115)

When people talk about Hangzhou, the first thing that comes to mind is its beautiful scenery. In fact, the snacks in Hangzhou are as attractive as its scenery. There are so many kinds of snacks in Hangzhou that you can eat them every day when you open your eyes and go to bed at night. It is estimated that you can't finish them in three days. Hangzhou snacks have a long history, and snacks with a history of hundreds of years can only be regarded as young people. Hangzhou snacks have culture, almost every snack has an allusion or legend, and many of them can also be related to some historical and cultural celebrities.

Today, Mouth and Cat are looking for these famous snacks in Hangzhou. It's not enough to find them, but also to find the best place to cook them.

Zhuangyuan Pavilion was built in Tongzhi period of Qing Dynasty. Because it used to be close to the imperial examination hall, it was named "the champion". Zhuangyuan Pavilion is famous for its pasta in Hangzhou, and this fried eel noodles with shrimp is its first sign. Although the fried eel noodles with shrimp are just a bowl of noodles, its cooking requirements are very strict. For example, the main raw material, eel, must be killed and cooked now, shrimp, must be fresh river shrimp, noodle soup, and must use the original juice of chicken soup. The noodles made in this way can be called excellent in color, flavor and shape.

Zhiweiguan is also a century-old shop, and it has always been well-known in history. It is said that some movie stars in Shanghai specially chose this place to hold banquets when they got married in the 1931s. Now Zhiweiguan is a famous restaurant with the same reputation as Louwailou. If Louwailou is the signboard of Hangzhou cuisine, Zhiweiguan is famous all over the world because of its snacks. There are many kinds of snacks in Zhiweiguan, up to hundreds, and even the picky tastes can be delicious. In addition, there are some signature snacks in Zhiweiguan, such as Zhiweiguan Xiaolongbao, glutinous rice lotus root with honey sauce and cat ears, which originated here.

greedy cat's recommendation: Zhuangyuan Pavilion-located in Hefang Street, Shangcheng District, this is a century-old shop where you can eat authentic fried eel noodles with shrimp.

Zhiweiguan-this is an old chain store with many kinds of snacks and authentic taste.

Among them, the head office is located in Renhe Road, Shangcheng District, near the West Lake, and there are many other branches, including Gaoyin Street Store in Shangcheng District, Zhongshan North Road Store in Downtown District, Hushu South Road Store, Wenyuan Road Store and Yang Gongdi Store in Xihu District.

The greedy cat finished the task easily in the first round, but she let her guard down a little at the beginning of the second round. Look, this playful problem has been committed again.

However, Dazui is still working hard and trying to find it. Alas, it's a pity that she is unlucky! The opening is not ideal!

The greedy cat, who was in high spirits, finally woke up, and was in a hurry.

After some searching, the greedy cat finally found Baijiaxian, and at the same time, Dazui arrived in Nissin.

haha, this time the greedy cat miscalculated again. In fact, Dazui has finished frying the bell and is on his way to the meeting place!

greedy cat recommendation: Baijiaxian-located in Gaoyin Street, Shangcheng District, where you can eat Wu Shan shortbread with a history of thousands of years.

In addition, there is Riqing Hou Restaurant on Hefang Street, where the bell-frying is very authentic.

This time, the greedy cat dare not neglect again. In just over half an hour, he found the famous Hangzhou snack asparagus candy with a history of 2,111 years in Qinghefang Street.

After tasting, the greedy cat hurried to the meeting place of the two.

greedy cat specially recommends: Qinghefang Street, a snack street, which is the best preserved ancient block in Hangzhou at present. There are hundreds of old shops here, and all kinds of snacks are dazzling, such as asparagus candy just found by greedy cat, and snacks such as Dingsheng cake and Juniper with a history of thousands of years in Hangzhou can be eaten.

"Juniper Bunge"

Antique

1.

"Eat in Hangzhou, live in Hangzhou, start a business in Hangzhou" is the slogan put forward by the Hangzhou Municipal Government in recent years, with the aim of building Hangzhou into a modern city with international brands and integrating tourism and high technology. The song "dream of paradise" fully embodies the artistic conception of "heaven above, Suzhou and Hangzhou below".

"Our home/living in heaven/green lake is full of beautiful dreams ..."

Hangzhou has unique tourism resources and history and culture, and there are too many historical topics, which even go deep into snacks in Hangzhou. Snacks in Hangzhou are not only unique in color, fragrance, taste and shape, but also rich in cultural traditions, beautiful stories and patriotic spirit. Or the behavior of supporting justice, or related to production customs, or accompanied by myths and legends, or with good wishes. Walking in the street, you can feel this unique cultural atmosphere by randomly choosing a famous snack. While tasting snacks, you can learn about allusions, which makes your appetite double and becomes a new spiritual and cultural enjoyment. Sometimes even you may not know whether you are tasting delicious food or nostalgia.

The climate of snacks in Hangzhou is conducive to the policy of reform and opening up. With the rapid development of Hangzhou's economy, the "eating" culture has also spread rapidly in Hang Cheng. A few years ago, "Wu Shan Road" snack street, whenever you go in, it will always be a bustling feeling; In recent years, the food stall in Wu Shan Square on the West Expo has also become one of the most lively scenes. All these can explain the "prosperity" of "eating" in Hang Cheng.

The most famous snacks in Hangzhou are "Cat's Ear", "Juniper with Onion" and "Shortcake". Each of these snacks has a story or legend, and each story or legend is like a halo on the Buddha's body, which paints these snacks with a mysterious legend; In turn, these snacks protect the continuation of these stories or legends, so that they can remain in people's memories even after thousands of years. People take this snack as their sustenance and inject patriotism into it; These are probably the connotations of "eating" culture, right?

personally, the first food related to legend was fried dough sticks. That was my second year in Hangzhou.

In the early years, most people in Hangzhou had fried dough sticks for breakfast, but we didn't talk about fried dough sticks. Just talk about the fried dough sticks. Two pieces of gluten were rubbed on the board, then pulled in the air, rolled together, and then fried in an oil pan, and Huang Cancan's was fine. I remember once buying fried dough sticks at a small push in Wulinmen. The old man selling fried dough sticks saw me eating with relish and asked me,

"Do you know what you are eating now?"

"Fried dough sticks!"

"You are eating Qin Gui!" The old man showed a proud look. "The fritters are Qin Gui and his wife."

I'm at a loss. At that time, I really didn't know that the small fried dough sticks would be related to Qin Gui.

After returning home, I read all the books about Hangzhou snacks and legends that I could find at home. This time, I really found another snack related to Qin Gui, which is "Juniper Onion".

"Juniper with Onion" is made of refined white flour, wrapped with fried dough sticks and onions, rolled into a tube, baked in a pan, and coated with sweet sauce or hot sauce when both sides of the cake are golden yellow. This kind of cake tastes soft and delicious, which is very suitable for the eating habits of Hangzhou people, so it is also a very popular breakfast. Now the "onion-wrapped juniper" is also made of eggs.

The connection between "Juniper Bunge" and Qin Gui is as follows: It is said that after Yuefei was killed by Qin Gui in Fengbo Pavilion, someone in Hangzhou kneaded flour to look like a couple in Qin Gui, then took a knife and threw it into a frying pan for frying, shouting, "Come and eat fried Juniper Bunge."

I closed my eyes and imagined that people in Hangzhou were fighting for "green onion". Are ordinary people eating "green onion"? No! They are eating hatred and eating hatred. They express their love and hatred in their own ways and methods.

2.

Qin Gui was a passer-by in the long river of history. No matter how treacherous he was, time could have washed everything away. However, thanks to the legend of Yuewang Temple and "Juniper with Onion", people's hatred for him can't be eliminated anyway. Therefore, as long as all those who betray their country and seek glory are hated by the common people, they will surely be remembered for thousands of years. On the contrary, his justice will always be praised by everyone.

These two poems in front of Yue's tomb can best represent this meaning: "Good and evil have been like ice and charcoal since ancient times; Destroying Huai is judged to be false and true today "; "Castle Peak has the honor to bury loyal bones; White iron casts innocent courtiers. "

A poem by an anonymous person in the Southern Song Dynasty also illustrates this problem.

where is Getian Pavilion? Yanyuetang hates it deeply.

I don't want to draw white hair from Luoyang, but I store gold in Nanwu.

You want to make Luo Zhi happy if you talk with laughter, and you will know that you have a bright future.

Loneliness is gone, and the idle mud accumulates on the wall.

Even after Qin Guan visited Yuewang Temple, he lowered his noble head and sighed "Shameful Qin".

but the development of things has its two sides. Generally speaking, Yue Fei's death is directly related to Qin Gui, because Qin Gui's treachery harmed Yue Fei's loyalty. I have never doubted this. As a national integrity and a loyal image, Yue Gong will live in people's hearts forever, which I have never doubted. However, for Qin Gui, we have to find the reasons from many aspects. Obviously, people can't be divided into traitors and loyalists at birth, and the attributes of such people can only be gradually developed during their growth. Qin Gui was also a scholar, and he was the prime minister, but why did he kill Yue Fei and demote Zhang Jun, Zhao Ding and others? There is no doubt that my suspicion will inevitably bring me an unusually large number of bricks. Please wait a moment, and it's not too late to smash after hearing me out. I mean: Are there other factors behind Qin Gui? Is Song Gaozong responsible? Is there a deeper historical connotation in killing Yue and demoting Zhang and Zhao?

I looked up some information about this in the Southern Song Dynasty. Perhaps my knowledge is too shallow, and it is difficult to find the answer in the written records of the Southern Song Dynasty I looked up. Although there is also a saying that Song Gaozong is incompetent, no one has explored this problem deeply. In order to answer satisfactorily, it is Qin Gui's responsibility. There is even a saying that Qin Gui was captured as a spy. I basically believe that Qin Gui was captured, but I am always skeptical about the spies. If a prime minister becomes a spy, the existence of the dynasty itself becomes problematic, and such an emperor has no reason to exist.

In my personal opinion, what Qin Gui did was probably Zhao Gou's meaning (or Zhao Gou's delirium). It's just that after Zhao Gou's death, the dynasty still surnamed Zhao, and the descendants of the emperor surnamed Zhao have more accusations about the inconvenience of his ancestor Zhao Gou. Just as we denied the "Cultural Revolution", the responsibility was attributed to Lin Biao and Jiang Qing.

When Wen Zhiming, a writer in the Ming Dynasty, saw the stone carvings of Yue Fei's tomb, he wrote a poem "Man Jiang Hong", which has been passed down through the ages:

Wipe away the remains of the tablet, and the word "Fei Fei" is faintly readable.

how important it was to lean on flying at first, but how cool it was later!

if it's success and death, it's hard to redeem the poor thing.

the most innocent, more pitiful to hate, is a storm prison.

don't you read it, Zhongyuan Cu?

at all costs, badge and humiliation?

But now that Hui and Qin have returned, where do they belong?

Don't boast about crossing the wrong road in the south through the ages. At that time, I was afraid that the Central Plains would recover.

it's nothing to laugh at, just to get what you want!

Wen Zhiming is not a historian, and his judgment of history may be biased. Although the words used in his ci need textual research, at least one thing is clear. He also expressed doubts about this matter.

Yue Fei was recruited by Qin Gui with 12 gold medals when the Northern Expedition made some progress (some records even thought it was about to succeed), and was killed in Fengbo Pavilion on the charge of "unwarranted". Is Qin Gui really loyal to his gold master? In this sense, Qin Gui is still very loyal, but he is loyal to a thief, thus betraying his own personality. But Song Gaozong is also his master? I guess at that time, there was indeed "Hui and Qin returned, where does this body belong?" There is a factor of "self-fear of the restoration of the Central Plains".

after all this, I suddenly understood a truth: I am not a historian, so there is no need to complicate the problem. All I need to know is that the image of Yue Gong and what is displayed in front of Yue Fei's tomb is a historical judgment, the opposition of people's hearts and the invincible justice.

3.

Another dish associated with ancient figures in Hangzhou is Dongpo Meat.

"Dongpo Meat" is made of pork with thin and tender skin, Shaoxing yellow wine as soup, placed in a sealed casserole and braised with slow fire. After the product is made, the color is rosy, the juice is rich and mellow, crisp but not broken, waxy but not greasy. Dongpo Meat ranks among the top ten famous dishes in Hangzhou.

I tied a knot in my heart when I first came into contact with Dongpo Meat. In the traditional culture of China, it is quite understandable that Qin Gui is symbolized as "an onion" and everyone eats it. Yue Wumu has a famous sentence in "The Red River", which means that "a strong man is hungry for meat and talks about thirst for Hun blood". But Su Dongpo is a great scholar and poet. His contribution to Hangzhou and his achievements in managing the West Lake are rare among historical figures. Up to now, Su Causeway is still one of the most beautiful scenic spots in the West Lake, and "Su Causeway Chunxiao" ranks first among the top ten scenic spots in the West Lake. How can a great man like this have "Dongpo Meat"?

Only when we know the origin of the allusion of Dongpo Meat can we fully understand this matter.

It is said that when Su Dongpo was appointed as the prefect of Hangzhou, his political achievements were outstanding. On the day when the dredging project of the West Lake was completed, people sent pork and Shaoxing wine in succession to show their respect. Su Weng refused, so he let his family fire it according to the above method, and then distributed it to the migrant workers who dug the lake. Because of Su Shi's merits, the common people called this meat "Dongpo Meat".

Originally, "Dongpo meat" refers to the meat given by Su Dongpo. The difficulty in understanding China's ancient literature can also be seen here. No wonder there are many young people who read ancient Chinese and find it difficult to understand them. I think I can find a step down when I failed in the ancient literature exam in my university.

There is a problem here. The same food is eaten. One is a symbol of beauty, while the other is a curse of evil. "Dongpo Meat" and "Juniper with Onion" are just like Weiqi. Although they exist on the same chessboard, the pieces are black and white, which makes people see at a glance.

In China's traditional cultural personality, the cultural personality of "eating" is like a passer-by in rags, and has never been on the elegant stage. Most of the ancient literati and poets disdain this kind of culture. They want to be elegant and show the elegance of their scholars. They would rather talk about "worry" than lower their cultural personality for food. Once this food culture and Confucian culture collide, they will be cremated. As far as I can remember, the most famous monograph of this kind is the Tea Classic. Another reason for this situation is the word "secret". The "palace secret recipe" and various "secret recipes" of various stores are important factors restricting the development of this kind of culture. On the contrary, the richness of food culture circulating among the people is beyond the imagination of ordinary people.

the vitality of folk food culture is mainly reflected in beautiful legends and stories. It also analyzes the "food" culture in Hangzhou. "West Lake Vinegar Fish" is related to the Song brothers, which tells a story of revenge for the younger brother. "Song Saoyu Soup" tells about the nostalgia for the ancient country; "The boy calls the chicken" is a friendship; "Wu Shan shortbread" embodies the people's love and hate for the old and new dynasties; The story of "Tangtuan" tells us that practice makes perfect in everything, but you can't fight the world; When leading troops to fight, we can't distinguish right from wrong, and we can't distinguish between red and white. The sword in your hand can only be used to punish evil, otherwise it will lose people's hearts.

These popular legends are simple in content, but in fact they contain profound personality ethics, humanity, aesthetics and even philosophical thoughts.

"Juniper with Onion" and "Dongpo Meat"