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Excuse me, the history of food culture in Qinhuangdao area

This is really a professional question, so I won't publish anything, just post some related content for you. Besides, Qinhuangdao was also a tiny place in the pre-Qin period, so it might not be civilized, so it is better to study the food in Hebei instead of confined to this place. However, at that time, it might not be possible to distinguish the food in the north and the south, because the food was not developed at that time, there were many cooking methods, and there were no ingredients (I once learned a little about cooking, and I knew a little about this), so it was better to study it nationwide.

1 As early as in the Book of Rites, there was a record of the food order of the banquet. The procedure of drinking wine first, then eating meat and vegetables and then eating is basically the same as now. At a banquet with sixteen kinds of dishes, the dishes were arranged in four rows, four in each row. The dishes with bones are placed in the main position on the left, and the cut pure meat is placed on the right. The meal is on the left of the eater, and the soup is on the right. Keep the minced and grilled meat farther away, and put the vinegar and sauce closer. Steamed onions and other condiments are placed next to them. Drinks such as wine pulp and soup are placed in the same direction. If the display is dried beef breast, etc., it is curved on the left and straight on the right.

A banquet is a gift of offering guests. First, the host takes the wine baron to the guest table and comes in, which is called' offering'; The second time, the guests return the respect, which is called' Qiang'; After the host pours the wine into the bowl, he drinks it himself first and then advises the guests to drink it with him, which is called' reward'. This together is called' a gift'. Nowadays, the guest banquet is also called entertainment, which emphasizes etiquette itself.

2 Roasting, boiling, steaming and rinsing

Generally speaking, in the Neolithic Age, people gradually changed the simple "fire food" method, and in the Zhixia Shang Dynasty, the cooking techniques reached a certain height of the times. There are a series of cooking terms in pre-Qin literature, such as burnt, roasted, fried, steamed, boiled, exploded, simmered, stewed, boiled, simmered, pickled, preserved, preserved, preserved, preserved, preserved, simmered, soup and so on. For example, "Zhou Li Tian Guan Shan Fu" has a cloud: "Where Wang Zhi feeds on six grains, eats six animals for meals, drinks six clear foods, uses 121 products for shame, uses eight things for treasures, and uses 21 jars for sauces." It involves many contents, such as the types of food, the choice of condiments, the collocation of main and non-staple foods, the knife processing of food, the cooking operation and the taste suitability. As far as "eight treasures are used" is concerned, one of them is called "eight treasures", and its proper names in the Book of Rites are Chun Zao, Chun Mu, Cannibal Dolphin, Dao Zhen, Stain, Boil, Naan and Liver. , and detailed the production process. It is a rare and well-known spectrum of eight kinds of food in ancient times. According to scholars' research, Chun-boil is a rice paste mixed with rice; Chun mother poured rice with millet meat sauce; Canned porpoises are barbecued suckling pigs or lambs, including eight processes, such as slaughter, cavity cleaning, belly brewing, cannon firing, paste hanging, frying, cutting into pieces, and slow stewing for three days and three nights. Zhen Zhen is a meat chop; The stain is wine-flavored beef; Boil it into dried meat; Baked rice for three delicacies; Liver? Wrap dog liver in baking net oil. It is generally believed that "eight treasures" revealed the high-level masterpiece of cooking and seasoning skills in the Zhou Dynasty. In fact, this is due to the forced memory of the so-called "three generations" cooking level of Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties by later generations. As we will discuss in the next section, some of them have existed at least in the Xia and Shang Dynasties.

In a word, the diet content in the gift book is generally a standardized expression of the diversification of cooking utensils and the great progress of cooking skills since ancient times, which somewhat reveals the gradual progress of the primitive cooked food law to the "way of cooking with fire".

4 China's earliest etiquette is produced in eating activities. Ancient China was a family-style political country with a strict hierarchical structure. In the pre-Qin period, diet, as one of the most important parts of social life, also showed a distinct hierarchy. In China, a state of etiquette, the ritual of diet is an important content. The earliest etiquette in China was produced in eating activities. "Book of Rites, Liyun" said: "At the beginning of husband's ceremony, we began to eat and drink. It's flat, millet and dolphin, and it's dirty and respectful, but it's expensive to capture and drum up. If you can still respect ghosts and gods. " It can be told here that the most primitive etiquette begins with eating behavior. Ancient China was a family-style political country. Hierarchy was the core structure of this country, and the country was derived from the expansion of the family. Therefore, the difference between the old and the young of the family was naturally reflected in the hierarchical system of the country, and on this basis, the social structure of ancient China was formed. (Zuo Zhuan) In the seventh year of Zhao Gong's reign, it was said: "There are ten days in the sky and ten classes in people. Therefore, in everything, there is a * * * God. Therefore, Wang Chengong ...

6 However, judging from the tea activities such as asking servants to cook tea, buy tea and clean utensils in Wang Bao's "Yueyue" in the Western Han Dynasty, it can be seen that tea drinking has gradually become popular in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River in China from the Qin Dynasty to the Han Dynasty. And

in Bashu area, drinking tea is earlier, which should begin in Qin dynasty.

A glimpse of the pre-Qin catering culture from the Book of Songs

The Book of Songs is the first collection of poems in China, which has had a far-reaching impact on the development of Chinese literature, and many contents in the poems also objectively express the catering culture in the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Spring and Autumn Period, which deserves our serious study. Its characteristics are as follows:

1. China's wine culture has basically taken shape. In the Book of Rites, the eleventh special sacrifice, it is said: when giving alms, Qian Zao "gives food on the left and drinks on the right". The reason is that "every drink raises yang"; All food, nourishing yin and qi. " Therefore, the ancients could not eat without drinks, especially wine. At that time, although the variety of wine was only grain brewing, it was already high and low. The top-grade "sake" in the upper part of the jar should be used to worship ancestors first. For example, "What is the North Mountain? Believe in the South Mountain": "Sacrifice sake, and be obedient." The bottom of the jar has been clarified as "Zanjiu", which is used to reward family members after heavy physical labor. For example, "Luming Literature's Logging": "Logging is allowed, and alcohol is delicious!" And "purport wine" is mellow wine ("Sanghu Zhishi Sanghu": "purport wine is soft", which means that the entrance is not spicy. ) for entertaining distinguished guests. Such as "Luming Literature's Luming Literature": "I have a wine, with the heart of a guest." "Book of Rites Jade Algae XIII" says: "All venerable people must serve mysterious wine." Since the wine is dark red, it is estimated that "Xuan wine" is "purport wine"! There is also wine as a general drink. At that time, people had considered the civilization of drinking. For example, remind people to drink moderately. "Xiao Min Zhi Xiao Wan": "People are all saints, and they drink Wink." That is to say, when drinking, you should look like a saint, be gentle and gentle in style, and be more restrained in drinking. So what should I do if I am really drunk? "The First Banquet of Sanghu and Bin" tells us: "You are drunk and blessed." It means getting drunk and taking the initiative to leave, and making noise at the banquet is not good for everyone. At that time, people also paid attention to good wine with delicious food. "What is Sanghu?": "Er wine is both the purpose and the food is both good."

The contents in Zhou Li and Book of Rites show that there was an animal husbandry with a clear division of labor at that time, but from the Book of Songs, it has not yet formed a large scale. People get meat mainly by hunting in the wilderness, fishing on the shore and casting nets. Animals include tigers, leopards, bears, deer, pigs, rabbits, dolphins, etc. Birds include pheasants, doves, magpies, bustard geese, cranes, mandarin ducks, yellow birds, etc. Fish are carp, bream, silver carp and so on. Hunting with nets and arrows on tools, fishing with nets and fishing, because of the lack of metal weapons or to win the favor of beauty, people also fight with wild animals when necessary. For example, "Uncle Zheng Feng is in the field": "Give a tiger to the office." It is about a young man who is topless, bravely fights with the tiger and dedicates the dead tiger to the public. There is also "Tai Feng Xin Tai" when it comes to fishing, it writes: "If the fishing net is set, Hong will leave it." According to Mr. Wen Yiduo, "Hong" is not a bird, but a chorus of "bitter", that is, a frog. "Leaving" is the same as "suffering". It means fishing with a net, but I caught toad. It fully reflects the humor and helplessness of the parties. Cattle, sheep, chickens, pigs and dogs are clearly mentioned in the Book of Songs. From the related content, the sheep industry at that time seemed to stand out. People ate mutton and sacrificed it to gods and ancestors. "Lamb fur" was even more necessary for people to keep out the cold. "What gives birth to the people? Give birth to the people": "Take a donkey to lick it, carry a burnt one." That is, people put the ram offering sacrifices to the gods on the fire for barbecue. Gong Liu: "Hold it in prison and use it as you see fit." Prove that there were pigs in captivity at that time. In the Book of Rites, there is a difference between "dolphin" and "wild tapir", and it is reminded that "dolphin can be eaten only after brain removal". However, because pigs have a large appetite and are not tame, the people feel that it is not as economical as raising sheep, so "pig" is only mentioned once in the Book of Songs ("Nan Zhou's worry": "He who lives there is unhappy, and he makes five troubles at once, so he is worried about it!" Refers to the small wild boar), and appeared in the banquet of princes and monarchs, so the pork was more precious than cattle and sheep at that time. Feng Wang Gentleman in Service: "Chickens inhabit the market" shows that chickens have formed an attachment relationship with human beings at that time, and perhaps food is relatively more precious. Although there are "chicken soup" and "chicken" in The Book of Rites, it can be seen from the Book of Songs that people don't raise chickens and eat chicken in large quantities, but only use chickens as alarm clocks. "Book of Rites Neize XII" says: "When the chicken crows at first, it is salty to wash". "Zheng Feng: Female cock crow": "Female cock crow, scholar crow." The hunter's wife said: the chicken crows, get up and hunt quickly, and the husband said: wait a little longer, it's not bright yet! And the official will not dare to sleep. "Qi Feng Ji Ming": "When chickens crow, the dynasty is full." When the cock crowed, the court was already full of people. There is a record of "dog man" in Zhou Li, and it is required to "keep dogs in the East" and eat "dogs remove kidneys". For example, "dogs are red and shy" is not suitable for eating. These contents prove that people at that time already had dogs and ate dog meat. But there is no record of eating dog meat in The Book of Songs. "Qi Feng Lu Ling" mentions dogs, but the dogs in the poem are hunters' helpers, not "meat dogs" to be slaughtered. Therefore, I thought that the custom of eating dog meat was not common at that time, regardless of the court or the people. It seems that people showed great enthusiasm for dog meat at the turn of the Qin and Han Dynasties when there was social unrest and food shortage.

According to the Book of Songs, the varieties of grain at that time were rice, wheat, millet, millet and glutinous rice, which were widely valued by people. "Tai Feng Zai Chi": "I go my own way and get my wheat." I rode in the field, flanked by lush wheat. Datian: "There are many crops in the field, so it is a matter of both warning and preparation. I'm sorry for you, but I'm carrying Nanmu. When you broadcast a hundred valleys, it is both a court and a master, and your great-grandson is if. " This poem shows that the grain was mainly planted at that time, and there were professional households like "great-grandchildren". "What gives birth to the people? Give birth to the people" even said: "You are rich in grass, and you are yellow and luxuriant." That is, weeds must be removed to grow good food. However, although the grain at that time was mainly cultivated, there may still be wild food crops. Such as "Feng Sang Zhong": "Why pick wheat? The north of the foam. " Where can I pick wheat? Just to the north of the foam. This poem reminds us of two problems. First, there may have been wild wheat recoverable at that time; Secondly, perhaps people at that time did not harvest wheat, whether it was planted or wild, but picked it. The practice of "picking wheat" proved the scarcity of metal tools at that time.

There are many kinds of vegetables mentioned in The Book of Songs, including the ear-rolling ear, the midge (Artemisia argyi) in the book of picking midges, the fern and the rose in the insect, and the fennel in the mulberry. Perhaps there are many wild vegetables, and they are abundant in production. Perhaps people had less demand for vegetarian dishes at that time, and there was no content of growing vegetables in the Book of Songs. When people want to eat, they just need to know what season and go there to pick them. "tang style Cailing" "Cailing Cailing is the top of the first sun." Where to pick bitter vegetables? Going to the top of shouyangshan.

At that time, the cooking methods were relatively simple, mainly including cannon, burning, roasting, cooking and steaming. The cannon is wrapped in mud and burned, and the burnt is baked on the fire. "What is the leaf of the capital": "There is a rabbit head, and the cannon is burnt." That is, after the rabbit is wrapped in mud and cooked, put it on the fire to roast incense and red. Roast is burned in the fire, "What is born to the people?": "The purpose is to make the wine flourish, and burn the fenfen." It means that the meat is fragrant in the constant roasting. In the Book of Songs, "cooking" is written as "Heng", which means cooking. Cooking is one of the main processing methods of ancient diet. Cooking vegetarian dishes, such as "What are the DuDu people's leaves": "The leaves are mixed and harvested." Cooking meat dishes, such as "Qi Feng Fei Feng": "Who can fish? The kettle of irrigation. " Steaming has a long history in China, and it is also a unique cooking method in China. The so-called Yellow Emperor "steamed grain for rice". "Steaming" in The Book of Songs is written as "Xuan". What gives birth to the people: "The ups and downs of the interpretation." From Yin Yun's Novels of the Six Dynasties, we can find the ancient method of steaming rice: that is, the middle of the "Kun" is separated by a "Yun Yun", and the rice is placed on the basket, and then the "Kun" is placed on the "kettle" filled with water. Then cook the rice on the fire. The structure of retort is the same as the existing steamer, but the appearance and material are different. The "turtle and carp" in June of Tonggong reflects that the banquet at that time was a mixture of raw and cooked. Although people at that time had already learned to use fire, they still found that some foods were more delicious when eaten raw. The Book of Rites, Neize XII, has also mentioned "beef fat" and "fish fat", saying: "The meat that is fishy and fine is fat, and the big one is porch". In order to get rid of the fishy smell of raw meat, we should "use onions in spring and mustard in autumn" when eating raw meat. Now we can still eat raw beef gizzards in some Korean restaurants, and live pig gizzards can also be found in ethnic minority areas in China. Fish gizzards were still popular in some parts of China until the Qing Dynasty. Qing Li Tiaoyuan's Notes on South Vietnam: "Cantonese customs are addicted to raw fish, ... those who splash their swords and wash their blood when they first come out of the water? Life, fine executioner for the film. Red muscle is white, light enough to blow, as thin as cicada wings. Compared with each other, Wo uses old glutinous rice, and uses pepper, and the entrance is melted. " But nowadays, freshwater fish can hardly be eaten raw because of water pollution, which is a retrogression of social civilization. The poor taste and deterioration of ingredients are also the main driving force for the development of condiments.

from the book of songs, we can also see that people at that time began to pay attention to the use of spices and spices when cooking. There are many descriptions of picking herbs in the poem, and "Zanthoxylum bungeanum" is mentioned three times. "tang style Pepper Chat": "Pepper Chat is real, and it is fascinating." "Min Yu Xiao Zi Zai Heng": "Is there a pepper with its fragrance, and Hu Kao is better?" Obviously, pepper was used as a fragrant material at that time. There are also medlar, licorice and so on, which may be the spices used for cooking after picking at that time. So is there any seasoning when you eat? "What is the life of the people? Walking the reed": "I will recommend it, or burn it or roast it." That is, the roasted meat is not salty, so when eating it, it is necessary to "recommend" the meat sauce.

from the above, we can see that the food culture in the pre-Qin period is not only the cornerstone of our contemporary food culture, but also has its distinctive historical characteristics. First, the wild ingredients at that time were very rich. Different regions and seasons had different vegetarian foods. Because of their different original flavors, people at that time did not pay much attention to seasoning, but paid attention to highlighting the original flavor of ingredients. The so-called "expensive nature also produces" and "big soup is not harmonious, and its quality is also expensive." This may be one of the reasons why "salt" and "sauce" did not appear directly in the Book of Songs. Yi Yin's emphasis on "the sum of five flavors" shows that ordinary people at that time did not attach importance to the harmony of flavors. Second, pasta has not yet appeared in large numbers, and wheat grains, like rice, are all materials for steamed rice and porridge. Perhaps after the Qin and Han Dynasties, with the close communication between Hu and Han, our ancestors learned to make pasta. Third, although there is "frying" in "Eight Treasures" in Zhou Li, from the Book of Songs, the methods of frying, exploding and frying that need oil as the medium have not yet appeared, but mainly in circles on fire and water. Therefore, the cooking level at that time was still in the primary stage.