Scarcity and high prices make most people want to wear, and netizens appeal: saury, join the ranks of luxury goods!
There are fewer and fewer swordfish caught in six nets.
Due to the continuous cold weather after the spring, the migration of Yangtze river swordfish was affected, resulting in a decrease in the daily market of Yangtze river swordfish. The daily market volume of authentic Nanjing river swordfish is less than 30 kg, and the price of a swordfish weighing 3.5 liang has climbed from 4,000 yuan/kg at the beginning of the market to 8,000 yuan/kg, setting a new high in 10 years, while fishmongers in the market said that the price will increase later. In two hours, the reporter ran four boats with the fishmonger, but there were not many swordfish, which were basically empty.
The most profitable item in aquatic products market.
Most of the swordfish in Changzhou market comes from Jiangyin Xiaohu Aquatic Products Market, and swordfish is also the first "big project" operated by aquatic product owners after the spring, and it is also the most profitable project. "earned this season, earned all year!" The aquatic product boss who has been operating here for more than ten years said so.
March14,20 pairs of Yangtze river swordfish, whose jargon is "Dazhong Dao", the wholesale price is 5400 yuan/kg; Just a few days ago, in March 10, "Onakado" was 3,500 yuan per catty. "The market was good yesterday, and I sold 200 Jin at once. It rained all day today, and it is estimated that it will not be sold today. " Boss Li waved his hand. "It is estimated that it will drop by five or six hundred yuan."
Contrary to the estimation of the aquatic product boss, the market is "firm". The reporter noticed at the scene of 15 that from 1: 20 in the afternoon, several cars of river knives shipped from Chongming Island in Shanghai entered the scene one after another, indicating that the fresh swordfish caught that day had been caught. The bidding price of more than 200 pairs of swordfish rose from 4000 yuan/kg to 1: 40, and the price of river knives with better appearance was stable at 5200 yuan/kg. Two fishmongers tried to bargain, but the boss with good goods just wouldn't let go.
However, Erdao fishmonger, who is familiar with the fish market, said that the price would go down a little at four or five in the afternoon. "Hotel sales are the best on Friday, cold air is coming again, and the fish quantity will drop again, so you can get more goods."
The freshness of saury is expensive, and the price is immediately halved every other day. The reporter noticed that the weight of many swordfish overnight is more than 200 yuan per catty, ranging from 1000 yuan to 2,200 yuan. Unless it is particularly large, the price will be higher than 2,500 yuan per catty. As a result, most fishmongers will take the opportunity to eat these "overnight" swordfish, and one of them from Nanjing asked for more than 20 kilograms of "overnight knives" at once.
Some experts said that in the sales of downstream links, "the water is deep", and the phenomena of shoddy, stealing the column and fishing in troubled waters abound.
No more than 20 fresh river knives a day.
A boss who has been doing swordfish business for 20 years told reporters that he has a special swordfish buyer in Tuanjiesha Port, Chenjia Town, Chongming Island, Shanghai. This is the first stop of swordfish trading. Buyers hold many fishermen in their hands, all of which are salvaged and bought by buyers. As soon as the swordfish landed, it was put on a truck bound for the small lake. "Changzhou, Jingjiang, Nanjing and Jiangyin are the' important places' to eat saury." The reporter saw on Sina Weibo that netizens in Nanjing broke the news on June 5438+04 that the price of swordfish in Nanjing market has reached 8000 yuan/kg.
The reporter's on-site visit found that the knives and fish in the market are mixed, and most of them are "sea knives" and "lake knives" posing as "river knives". In an aquatic bank, the reporter found that boxes of frozen swordfish actually came from Fujian, and the jargon was called "Fujian Knife". They come from Minjiang, Fujian. There is also saury from Ningbo, called "Zhejiang Island". 500 yuan to 1500 yuan per catty of the same pair of swordfish "Fujian Dao" and "Zhejiang Dao".
An aquatic product boss told reporters that the swordfish that can be bought in the vegetable market are actually lake knives and sea knives, and the price is only a quarter of that of river knives, while the authentic fresh river knives on the market should not exceed 20 every day! "90% of the so-called Yangtze river swordfish comes from Chongming Island in Shanghai." More than a decade ago, authentic swordfish could be caught in Changzhou section of the Yangtze River, but now all the fish that can be caught are those that slip through the net. Many swordfish just swam from the sea to the Yangtze River estuary in Shanghai when they were caught by fishermen in Shanghai. Those who can reach Nantong, Zhangjiagang, Jingjiang and Changzhou are all surviving fish. "
"According to the old saying, saury has the best meat when it swims to Changzhou, Zhenjiang and Yangzhou, so the saury caught in these places is sky-high." The insider said.
In ten years, the price has increased more than twenty times.
In 2002, the purchase price of 500 grams of Yangtze saury was more than 200 yuan. In the first ten days of March last year, more than two pairs of swordfish per 500 grams were nearly 3,000 yuan, a year-on-year increase of 10 times. This year, it rushed to about 5,000 yuan, which has increased by more than 20 times in more than ten years. Boss Li, the fishmonger, has been in the swordfish business for more than ten years. In his words, such a high price makes ordinary citizens flinch. The reporter learned from several five-star hotels in Changzhou that the price of swordfish here is sold by the bar, and the swordfish is mainly for business banquets to prove the value and atmosphere of the guests.
Four or five kilos of swordfish is equivalent to one month's salary of ordinary civil servants, and two months' income of a migrant worker is naturally not eaten by ordinary people. As a result, many netizens posted, strongly demanding to help saury apply for luxury goods, and even suggested that "three public consumption" should not eat saury, and there were many supporters.
Luxury goods are defined as "a kind of consumer goods with unique, scarce and exotic characteristics beyond the scope of people's survival and development needs", also known as non-necessities of life. These points, the Yangtze river swordfish accounts for all, and its price really makes most people feel unattainable and has the characteristics of luxury goods.
8000 yuan a catty of Yangtze river swordfish, who is eating you?
8000 yuan a catty of Yangtze river swordfish, who is eating you?
Yangtze river swordfish, one of the three famous dishes in the Yangtze River, is also known as the three delicacies of the Yangtze River with swordfish, shad and puffer fish. It tastes delicious, but once upon a time, swordfish was a dish of ordinary people. A few dollars can buy a catty, but do you know how much swordfish costs now? The most expensive catty costs 8000 yuan, which is a luxury. Who is eating such expensive fish?
"In recent years, the fishing output of swordfish has decreased geometrically, and the swordfish resources are close to the utilization limit." Zheng Jinliang, an aquatic expert who has been studying swordfish breeding for many years and a representative of Jiangsu Provincial People's Congress, called for a total ban on swordfish fishing from the Yangtze River in order to save rare species.
The Yangtze swordfish, the first of the "Three Freshness of the Yangtze River" (swordfish, shad and puffer fish), is shaped like a silver knife. Every March, it enters the river from the East China Sea and spawns upstream in the middle reaches of the Yangtze River. The "river knife" produced in Jiangyin and Jingjiang sections is the best.
This year is still a low yield.
"This year is a big year. Authentic Yangtze saury can be seen almost every day on the market, but the output is very low. " Zheng Jinliang, an aquatic expert who has studied the breeding of saury for many years, said that last year was a small year of "river knife" and the fishing yield was the lowest in history. When the unit price is the most expensive, a saury with more than three taels costs more than 8,000 yuan per 500 grams, which is a first-class product; 2 two to 3 two; Lower; 1 two halves become two, and then lower; 1 Less than half, the lowest level. Just one grade, the price can be hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
20 10 is the year of "river knife", the catch is more than twice that of last year, and the average price of first-class products is three or four thousand yuan per 500 grams. "Since 2005, we have followed certain laws. Odd years are small years and even years are big years." Zheng Jinliang explained that there is a reason that the output is similar every other year. Yangtze river swordfish is a typical migratory fish species, which migrates from the sea to the Yangtze River every spring, swims back along the main stream to the middle reaches and lays eggs as far as Dongting Lake. "In the autumn of the same year, the hatched saury returned to the offshore downstream. In the second year, they will not migrate to the Yangtze River to lay eggs, but will migrate to the river in the third year. "
Although the catch of swordfish is divided into big year and small year, the general trend has been declining. Zheng Jinliang said: "This is also an important year. This year's fishing output is obviously not as good as the year before, and it is still low. "
The daily drop is 1000 yuan, which is a normal fluctuation.
Zhang, deputy stationmaster of Jiangyin Aquatic Products Guidance Station, believes that swordfish frequently broke the price last year, mainly due to low output and large demand. "Things are rare, and prices are determined by market supply and demand." According to Zheng Jinliang, the output of saury is small, which can't guarantee a stable supply every day, so the price often fluctuates greatly. "The asking price of the first-class product was 5,000 yuan per 500 grams the day before yesterday, fell to 3,500 yuan yesterday, and rebounded to 4,000 yuan today. Thousands of dollars a day, we have long been used to it, within the normal range. "
In Zheng Jinliang's memory, in 2002, the top-grade Yangtze saury was purchased at a price of only about 200 yuan per 500g, and the price increased by more than 20 times in a short period of 10.
In sharp contrast to the soaring prices, the output is declining year by year. According to the data, the output of 1973 along the Yangtze River is 3,750 tons, and 1983 is about 370 tons. After 2002, the annual output is less than 100 tons, 20 10 is 80 tons, and 2010. ...
Ordinary citizens are discouraged.
"Before Qingming, the fish bones were as soft as cotton, and after Qingming, the fish bones were as hard as iron." After Tomb-Sweeping Day, the value of saury plummeted with its taste. Previously, "Jiang Dao" was one of the most fashionable gifts in the Yangtze River Delta. Steamed swordfish in restaurants and restaurants can best reflect its value.
In many people's eyes, Tomb-Sweeping Day's eating swordfish is already a status symbol. "saury is more expensive, and I don't worry that no one will eat it. I am afraid that there will be fewer fish and the restaurant will scratch its head. " An insider in the catering industry revealed that saury frequently appeared in some business banquets to show off its value and status. "In March and April, a big hotel could earn10 million yuan in sales just with a plate of swordfish."
A plate of steamed swordfish costs thousands of dollars, and ordinary citizens are naturally discouraged. I'm afraid most working-class people can only taste swordfish wonton once in a while. In fact, the swordfish wonton sold in Jiangyin Hotel is almost made of cheap "sea knife" with fat diced and egg white.
Overfishing is a disaster, and it is hard to escape.
The "river knife" migration is tragic. Every spring when I go to bloom, I will encounter a tight encirclement set by human beings. In addition to regular fishing boats, there are many illegal small trawls, deep-water nets and inserted nets in the river.
"In recent years, fishing technology has advanced by leaps and bounds, equipment has become more and more advanced, and fishing intensity has become greater and greater." According to Zheng Jinliang, many sections of the Yangtze River estuary are covered with fishing nets, which are horizontal to the edge and vertical to the end, so it is difficult to let a fish slip through the net. "Unlike before, fishermen cast nets by boat, and the fishing nets were all hand-woven. No matter how they fish, it will not affect the reproduction of swordfish. "
Zheng Jinliang said frankly: "Now, a swordfish can only be safe if it follows the boat in the waterway, otherwise it will accidentally take a wrong turn and fall into the fishing net. This is not a joke. "
Even if swordfish are lucky enough to pass through thousands of nets in the Yangtze River estuary, there are fishermen with special fishing licenses along the Yangtze River. "Only lucky people can swim to Jiangyin." Zheng Jinliang spent several years tracking the migration route of saury along the Yangtze River, all the way to Anhui and Jiangxi. "Swordfish swim slowly, with a speed of about 1 km per hour, and most of them die unexpectedly during their migration."
If it hadn't been for the "Jiangdao" amulet, its bones would be as hard as iron after the Qingming Festival, and it would no longer be delicious, and it might have been extinct long ago. The Yangtze River shad, which is listed as "three fresh species of the Yangtze River", has been extinct for many years 10.
Ten years of catching is more like chasing.
Zhang introduced that since 2002, every time swordfish migrates and breeds, fishing boats restricted by the state must hold special licenses to catch swordfish within a limited time.
"This year, the Yangtze river swordfish is in Jiangyin, and it can be caught from March/KLOC-0 to April 20." Zheng Jinliang emphasized that the fishing ban time along the Yangtze River is different, and this time is only valid for Jiangyin.
"After ten years, the effect is not good." Zheng Jinliang bluntly said that banning fishing is more like hunting. "Where swordfish migrate, fishing is allowed. If you really want to protect swordfish, you should avoid the flood season and implement a total ban on fishing. " He said that many people opposed a total ban on arrest. "Swordfish is a traditional economic fish in the Yangtze River and the main source of income for fishermen along the Yangtze River. Once it is completely banned, how can fishermen be resettled? At that time, the demand was still there and the price was higher, which may stimulate illegal fishing to become more rampant. "
Zheng Jinliang believes that a total ban on fishing will really make fishermen temporarily reduce their dependence on life. "But even if they can't help fishing at this speed, it won't be long before the fishermen say goodbye to swordfish sooner or later."
Zheng Jinliang added that the total ban on arrest was temporary. "It only takes five or six years, and the Yangtze river swordfish will recover a lot. By then, fishermen and diners will benefit from re-fishing. " "If saury is extinct, a few diners just lose a delicious taste; But for the Yangtze River, what is lost is rare species. "
Yesterday afternoon, the reporter came to Jiangyin People Tiger Aquatic Market, one of the largest wholesale markets for saury in China. In addition to "Jiang Dao", the market is also full of many cottage varieties such as "Zhejiang Dao", "Hu Dao" and "Hai Dao". These swordfish are similar in appearance, but their taste and value are quite different, and vendors often shoddy them.
"Dao Jiang" fish is strong, with spikes in the lower jaw, fins on the side, and free filaments behind the fins, which are more than half of its body length. Fresh flag fish gills are bright red, scales are silver, and no large area falls off.
Zheng Jinliang said that after "Dao Jiang" moved to the river, the salt in the fish gradually faded. Back in Jiangyin and Jingjiang, the proportion of salt and fat was just right, and the taste was the most delicious. "The swordfish caught in advance from Shanghai, Taicang, Changshu and other Yangtze River sections also belong to the' river knife', but the level and price are relatively low."
"Zhejiang Road" comes from Zhejiang. After growing up in the sea, it swam to the junction of river and sea and lived in salty and fresh water. The head is a little red, and the taste is not as good as "Jiangdao".
"Lake Knife" returned to tributaries and lakes from the Yangtze River estuary, and settled on the spot after spawning. Because of the "leisurely" life, the lower palate is no longer prickly, the filaments behind the fins become shorter and the fish body becomes thinner.
"Sea swordfish" are mostly male swordfish with thick meat. They are caught from offshore and have to be transported for many days before entering the market. Fish's bodies are often not stiff, and some even have broken stomachs.
Never let the Yangtze river swordfish become a "specimen" of tribute.
Never let the Yangtze river swordfish become a "specimen" of tribute.
Yangtze river swordfish, one of the three famous dishes in the Yangtze River, is also known as the three delicacies of the Yangtze River with swordfish, shad and puffer fish. It tastes delicious, but once upon a time, swordfish was a dish of ordinary people. A few dollars can buy a catty, but do you know how much swordfish costs now? The most expensive catty costs 8000 yuan, which is a luxury. (CCTV April 3)
Yangtze saury has changed from a home-cooked dish more than ten years ago to the most expensive luxury of 8000 yuan per catty. According to this "speed", it is estimated that this kind of fish will completely disappear from people's table in about ten years, and eventually become a "biological fossil specimen" remembered and paid tribute by future generations, just like the extinct dinosaurs in ancient times. All this is not impossible. This will be a tragedy of modern society and environmental protection.
If, like paleontology dinosaurs, the extinction of this species is due to the great power of nature and the change of climate particularity, it is understandable. However, a few years ago, saury, which was regarded as delicious as ordinary fish by human beings, was strangled by the development of modern industry and the spread of "environmental pollution", which is regrettable. It is conceivable that if this phenomenon of "sky-high swordfish" is not regarded as a wake-up call to protect the environment and existing biological species, I am afraid that in a few years, the Yangtze River will be regarded as a large number of fish that migrate upstream like swordfish, such as eels and Songjiang perch that migrate downstream, and Chinese sturgeon and shad that migrate upstream, and there will be "hope" to become like swordfish. There is no doubt that how to protect the fish represented by saury is urgent.
In the face of the sky-high saury, people should feel guilty, instead of continuing to ignore it, allowing fishermen to get rich at will and the extravagant rich to enjoy it at will. It is necessary for us to have a sense of crisis and guilt in order to truly find the root cause of the "sky-high price" of saury. According to the analysis, it is found that "saury is in the middle of the whole migration process. If there is even a short water area of one or two kilometers along the Yangtze River, once there is poor water quality or water pollution incident, saury can't cross this water area, thus ending the whole migration activity. The chain reaction immediately after the termination of the migration activity is that the fry production will drop sharply in that year, that is, the fry production is almost zero. " The crux of environmental pollution is the first reason, and only by finding the crux can we prescribe the right medicine.
Solving the deterioration of the living environment of similar fish involves not only one place and one city, but also the whole river and its related tributaries, lakes and even the whole industrial enterprise to reduce or even stop discharging pollutants. Some local and industrial production enterprises should see the crisis of environmental protection from the "high price swordfish" and realize that the deterioration of water quality will not only infringe on the living environment of swordfish, but also directly and indirectly harm human beings; We should improve the water quality of the Yangtze River as a whole, directly supervise any details of pollutants discharged by related enterprises, and it is necessary to formulate an extremely severe punishment system to reflect the sincere protection of water quality and fish. There is a "population law" for animal protection. The more the quantity, the easier it is to recover. At present, this fish school can still breed. If the situation is allowed to deteriorate, I don't know how to explain it to the children when I take them to the museum to see the "specimens" of saury in a few years.