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The development history of Tan Jiacai

in 1919, Tan Zhenqing, son of Tan Zongjun, returned to Beijing, moved from Xisi Mutton Hutong to Mishi Hutong, and became addicted to his third aunt Zhao Lifeng. According to the delicious taste of Tan Fu's "Tan Jiacai" and Tan Fu's status as an academician, he gathered the bureaucrats in the capital to have a drink, which made it fashionable for the bureaucrats in the capital to fake Tan Fu banquets, and the private clubhouse in China catering industry started. "Tan Jiacai" has been adhering to the door rules of "fine selection of materials, hard cutting, fine work, adequate heat and pure taste" for decades. When it became popular, it won the reputation of "the food industry has no mouth to boast about". In the 1931s, it was even more famous. At that time, celebrities in politics, military, business and cultural circles took "Tan Jiacai" as a light pet, even if they booked half a month in advance, it was never too late. People outside the capital should also try their best to taste "Tan Jiacai" as soon as possible.

In the early days of its formation, "Tan Jiacai" was only used as a family dish. After the Qing Dynasty, the Tan family gradually declined. However, in terms of diet, Tan Zongjun's son didn't want to be a little restrained, but he couldn't keep on eating, so he quietly hosted a family banquet, but because of his face, he refused to hang up the signboard of "restaurant", but his business was booming. There are many people who have never met before, and they come here for a banquet with a lot of money. "Tan Jiacai" spread to the society through such a small family banquet. Gradually, "Tan Jiacai" has become an enduring fashion signature dish, so there has been a widespread saying in the society that "there is no cavity to learn from Tan in the theater (Tan is called Tan Xinpei) and there is no mouth to praise Tan in the food industry (referring to Tan Jiacai)". In 1943 and 1946, Tan Zhenqing and Zhao Lifeng passed away one after another. Miss Tan Lingrou presided over the kitchen and chef Peng Changhai continued to operate. In 1949, Tan Lingrou took part in a business trip. Chefs Peng Changhai (red case), Cui Minghe (cold meat case) and Wu Xiuquan (white case) moved out of Tan Zhai and ran "Tan Jiacai" in Fruit Lane. In 1954, Peng Changhai, Cui Minghe and Wu Xiuquan participated in a public-private partnership, and "Tan Jiacai" moved from Guozi Lane to Xidan "Enchengju". In 1957, Xidan Shopping Mall was expanded, and Quyuan Restaurant was merged into Enchengju. Since then, it has lived in two dishes. In 1958, Comrade Zhou Enlai personally arranged for "Tan Jiacai" to be stationed on the seventh floor of Beijing Hotel.

Today, Tan Jiacai has been well inherited and achieved new development. As one of the most prominent typical official dishes in China, Tan Jiacai not only won the praise of many domestic and foreign gourmets, but also attracted the interest of many culinary researchers. From the perspective of China's cooking history, Tan Jiacai is a living fossil, which provides the most complete and accurate information for studying the official dishes in Qing Dynasty.