? I remember the first time I came to Guiyang in 2000, and I stayed here for nearly a month because of my work, but strictly speaking, I should have been to Guizhou Province, because I actually stayed in Guiyang for less than a week, and most of the time I hurried back to eight prefectures and cities in Guizhou Province, so I was not impressed with Guiyang, so I can only say that I met Guiyang. I didn't expect to come to Guiyang this time because of work, and because of the long project time, I had the opportunity to contact this southwest metropolis with unique ethnic and local characteristics for the first time.
There is an old saying in China that it is cloudy in the north and sunny in the south. It is named "Guiyang" because the city is located in Shan Zhinan. At the same time, ancient Guiyang is rich in beautiful bamboo, so it is called "bamboo" for short. Of course, due to the development of the city, it is difficult to see large bamboo forests in the city. When getting off the plane, the first impression of Guiyang is the pleasant climate. From the high temperature of 356 degrees in Guangzhou to Guiyang, you will feel as if you are in the other half of the world. Subtropical humid and mild climate, no heat in summer and no severe cold in winter make you free from the big steamer wrapped in reinforced concrete at once, and your whole body's breathing and mood seem to be much smoother in an instant. When you step on taxis and buses in Guiyang, you will find a phenomenon different from other cities. There are few air-conditioned cars here, so taxis and buses don't need to turn on air conditioning. As long as you open the window, the cool wind will blow all over the carriage, which is completely different from the smell in air-conditioned buses in other cities. When you open the window, you will be greeted by suffocating hot air, so every time you introduce the people who live here in China with the best climate to your friends or colleagues. Kunming is a big spring city and Guiyang is a small spring city. People widely praise: "There is heaven in the world, Suzhou and Hangzhou in the world, and Guiyang has the best climate", which should be a generous compliment to Guiyang's climate!
? Guiyang is located in the hills, surrounded by mountains and lush trees, and is known as the "capital of mountain countries". Because there are many mountains, the land is precious. Most of the houses in Guiyang are high-rise buildings with high density. Many houses are built in the middle of the mountain or on the hillside. Looking at the distance opposite with an empty gap is really a mirage. Because there are many mountains, the roads are rugged and steep. I have been to many cities. For the first time, I feel that there are so many slopes to climb in a city, many of which are long and steep (some slopes can reach an angle of 50-60), and these are the second. The most surprising thing is that many kinds of cars can be parked on these steep and long slopes. Whenever I come down the hill, I always feel a little worried about these parked cars. Haha, of course, these estimates are all my personal worries, because so far I haven't heard from Guiyang people that such a thing happened. Because of the steep slope, shopping in Guiyang city is a relatively physical exercise. In Guiyang, obese people are rarely seen. Although the girls here are not very tall, they are all slim. I think it has something to do with the terrain here.
Sichuan has a big stick and Guiyang has a backpack. Wherever you go in Guiyang, you will meet such a special group of people-basket carriers, and the number is quite large. The feature is that the metropolis carries a wide-brimmed bamboo basket. I guess they all came from the surrounding rural counties to find jobs and earn some pocket money to subsidize their families. When you are new here, you may think that there are such a group of migrant workers in a provincial capital city. They dress like wolves and look unclean, which will affect the city's external image and public security. But when you observe them and get in touch with them, you will find that they are actually so simple and sincere. Many shops and residential buildings in Guiyang are built on hillsides, and the streets are narrow, so many people and vehicles cannot get in. It's really tiring to buy something a little more important or some goods and carry them home alone and climb five or six floors, so many such jobs are left to manual basket pickers. As long as you say hello by the roadside, a large group of workers carrying baskets will gather around. When you negotiate the price, they can use their unique basket-lifting tools to help you transport all the goods safely to the place you want. This is more convenient and faster than any other tool, and the price is not expensive. I once saw a worker carrying a basket walking home with four or five boxes of fruit and a big color TV with his employees. Of course, some lazy city residents even like to call a basket picker to buy food. They can hire a basket bearer to go shopping with you, and then put everything they buy in his basket. He will follow you until you come back to your door after buying vegetables. Although sometimes the work is very tired and dirty, what I see on the basket bearer's face is always a smile and a longing for a better life tomorrow. In Guiyang, a metropolis, basket-carrying workers have gradually formed a unique group-basket-carrying army. During the day, they wander the streets, looking for vitality. At night, they lay on the floor in front of some shops that closed earlier, magically took out simple bedding from the basket and spread it on the ground until dawn. Although their existence has brought chaos to the city, it is precisely because of their contribution that they have brought about the convenient circulation of goods and the rapid development and prosperity of the city.
? When it comes to the characteristics of Guiyang, we can't help but talk about Guiyang's food. Guiyang people are also famous for their spicy food. There is not such a saying that "Sichuanese are not afraid of spicy food! People in Guizhou are not afraid of spicy food! Hunan people are afraid of spicy food! " Sichuan is spicy! Guizhou is spicy! Hunan is spicy! During our business trip, I deeply realized the taste of spicy oil. Because I work in Guiyang Electric Power Bureau, I was naturally arranged to have dinner with the staff in the internal canteen of the Electric Power Bureau. Every time we eat in the canteen of the Electric Power Bureau, we will sigh that the food in the bureau is really spicy and oily, especially the oil. Every time after dinner, a thick layer of red and spicy oil will accumulate in the basin. We said with a smile, the oil and water left in a pot of vegetables in the electric power bureau canteen is enough for us to fry another pot of vegetables in the canteen. The biggest advantage of a business trip to Guiyang is delicious. No matter you walk into that small restaurant on the street, fried food can catch up with the "Fire Palace" in Zhuhai. Less than a month after I came to Guiyang, my mouth was angry twice. I, a Hunan native who claims to be afraid of spicy food, am deeply impressed by the peppers here. Over time, I found that Guiyang's cooking is very distinctive. I like to put a lot of dried peppers and millet peppers in my dishes. Dried peppers are ground into powder and thin slices, which are already very spicy. Coupled with the spicy millet pepper and heavy oil and water, most of the fried dishes are red and fragrant, and they taste more "spicy!" Spicy! "yes. In many residential alleys facing the street, shops that buy peppers can be seen everywhere. The neat dustpan in the shop is filled with dried big red peppers, all red and black. From a distance, they are dark red, which is very nice! The shopkeeper took some dried peppers, twisted them in a jar with a small iron bar, and ground them into powder and sold them as pepper powder. So in Guiyang, we are never afraid of not having fresh Chili powder to eat, and most of them are freshly ground and sold. Unlike those cities in Guangzhou, you can only go to the supermarket to buy some bagged Chili powder.
When it comes to eating in Guiyang, you can't help but talk about snacks in Guiyang. Guiyang people and Chengdu people have great similarities-they love to eat and can eat. There are many kinds of snacks in Guiyang, which not only gives Guiyang people a chance to eat their fill, but also makes Guiyang people earn a reputation for loving food. Our hotel is near Hequn Road, which is a famous small food street in Guiyang, so when we are free, we can go to the night market after work to experience Guiyang's snack characteristics. There is a jingle in Guiyang snacks, which is a popular flavor snack among Guiyang citizens. Its poem is "The bean curd garden is full of prosperous noodles, with a lotus-leaf Baba shop, a large color brush handle (wonton and the like), a surname who steps on wonton, and the golden sheep tail of Wu Jia Tangyuan, with an oil fan but no silver soup, loves salty and sweet food", which summarizes how big Guiyang is. Among the "Eight Famous Snacks in Guiyang" selected by Guiyang people on 16 (Wang Chang Noodles, Tofu Dumplings, Love Tofu Fruit, Cake Porridge, Beef Powder, Guiyang Egg Cake, Ba Huang, Crushed Crispy Cake, Bowl Ear Cake, Black Gluten Eight-treasure Rice, Lotus Leaf Ciba, Silk Doll and Rice Tofu). Eight-treasure turtle, pork ribs with pickled peppers, dried fish with hydrochloric acid, spicy chicken, fried shredded pork with konjac crispy rice, pork ribs with sauerkraut, braised pork with Guizhou flavor, pork ribs with hydrangea, kung pao chicken, roasted konjac duck, Chili sauce, minced garlic, fried ear meat, fried green rock tofu and champion's hoof), because of work reasons and banknotes, we can only have a rough taste.
When I first heard Guiyang people say "diaosi doll", I was shocked, because it suddenly reminded me of the "ginseng fruit" in The Journey to the West. Both are dolls. Will they look alike? Later, when I saw the silk doll, I found that it was far less horrible than "ginseng fruit", but it was much more complicated than eating "ginseng fruit". Guiyang people have many explanations for "silk doll", but I think this explanation should be the most comprehensive: first, this "silk" is named because a small thin-skinned bread is wrapped with a lot of shredded radish, broken ears and kelp, and second, the "doll" is named because its shape is large and small, especially like a baby wrapped in thin silk. It really took a lot of effort to eat "silk doll" for the first time. When you see the desktop of the silk doll, you will feel that this is a huge project. I saw food stalls on the street, each of which was a long one with rows of small stools. The stalls are filled with all kinds of shredded vegetables, with a dozen or twenty varieties. Cut the shredded vegetables very finely, alternating red, white, yellow and black. The stalls are also filled with all kinds of spices, sugar, soy sauce, vinegar and cooking oil. When eating, use flour to make a thin paper-like pancake of mature size, use a variety of seasonings, such as shredded radish, broken ears, mung bean sprouts, kelp, fried soybeans and peppers, wrap it in dough, roll it into small rolls, and then pour the adjusted seasonings to eat. The taste is fragrant and full of characteristics. But I really didn't know how to wrap it when I wrapped it for the first time, because the dough was small and it was not easy to grasp what I put in it, so the silk doll wrapped was either too fat (the shredded vegetables inside were exposed, too big to bite) or too small (it was easy to leak into my hand when I poured the soup), and it was really embarrassing to eat. Finally, I watched the local people at the next table wrap it two or three times before secretly learning to eat.
? Sausage noodles are a famous specialty snack in Guizhou province and one of the essential breakfast types for Guiyang citizens. For decades, many Guiyang citizens have been used to getting up early with it. For example, there is a Wang Chang noodle restaurant at the intersection across the street from where we live. Sometimes when you pass by at noon on weekends, you often see a long line of noodles. Guiyang Wang Chang noodle is an egg noodle made from pig intestines and pig blood. There are more than 20 kinds of ingredients and seasonings for Wang Chang noodles, especially the production of pig intestines: the intestines should be simmered in a casserole with low fire, cooked and then taken out and sliced. However, Wang Xue mixed the mung bean sprouts together and put them in the soup pot before eating noodles. After the noodles are cooked, take them out and put them in a big bowl, mix them with the fat sausage in the casserole, the freshly pickled blood curd and mung bean sprouts, sprinkle with a kind of fried diced meat called "Crispy Whistle" and pour spicy oil to make the soup bright red, the intestines fat and delicious, and the blood curd tender and smooth. Up to now, it has a history of 100 years and is a famous flavor snack in Guiyang. But the price is not cheap either. A bowl of vermicelli is the cheapest in 4.5 yuan, and the quantity is not much. Every time I finish a bowl, I always feel unfinished. Compared with the ratio of eating vermicelli in Henan and Shandong, it is simply a drop in the bucket. The bowls in the north are big and full, while those in the south are relatively small and few. After eating it, I often think how wonderful it is to combine the taste of the south with the weight of the north!
? Guiyang has a good climate, so even if it is sunny in summer, it will not affect people's mood of going out shopping and playing. When you take a bus in Guiyang, young people basically don't grab seats, because you will find many elderly people, and you will often give up your seats to the old people who just got on the bus, which gradually forms a good riding atmosphere in Guiyang (the same phenomenon is also found in Kunming). Unlike a big city like Guangzhou, young people rarely give up their seats when they see old people getting on the bus. Why are so many old people willing to go out? When you think about it carefully, it turns out that the climate is good, so many old people are willing to go out for activities, go for a walk in the park, play Tai Chi and sing Peking Opera, which has become an indispensable and very pleasant thing for them every day. Seeing these scenes, I often think that if I am old, I must come to such a city to spend my old age!
It seems to be a rule that there are many beautiful women in mountainous and watery places, and Guiyang is no exception. Walking in Guiyang street, you can often meet beautiful women who come face to face inadvertently. The probability is greater than many cities I have been to (cities in Sichuan have never been to). I have been to Hangzhou for a month, and it is also June and July in summer. At that time, the story of The Legend of the New White Snake kept echoing in my mind, thinking that there should be many beautiful women to see in Hangzhou. However, after I went there, I found that it is really rare to meet beautiful women on the streets of Hangzhou in summer (of course, I just have enough eyes and have no other ideas), unlike in Guiyang, where I can meet beautiful girls and pass you by in a short time. Sometimes I think it may also have something to do with the climate. After all, the high temperature near 40 degrees in Hangzhou in July and August has long scared the beautiful women away from going out. Unlike in Guiyang, the hottest late July, the average temperature is only 24 degrees, in order not to affect the interest of beautiful women shopping, but also to have the opportunity to see more beautiful women on the street. As a woman in Guiyang, I think it should be a very happy thing! You can wear many beautiful skirts all year round. (* _ _ *) Hee hee! !
? Guiyang is a multi-ethnic city dominated by Han nationality. A long history has nurtured the splendid national cultures of 38 ethnic groups in this land, forming a rich ethnic customs. Some young men and women of ethnic minorities hold festivals such as "April 8", "March 3", "June 6" and "jumping on the field" through affectionate singing and dancing. There are Nuo operas and local operas, which are called the embryonic form and "living fossil" of China's plays. However, these ethnic customs can only be seen in the surrounding counties and cities, and the expansion of urbanization and the monotonous life of metropolis are doomed to the homogenization and vulgarization of their customs. Due to the urgency of business trip, we can only feel these national characteristics in newspapers and news.
? Having said so many praises to Guiyang, doesn't it have any shortcomings? In fact, people who have just arrived in Guiyang will feel that the city is dirty and chaotic at first sight, giving people the impression that it is a city with relatively backward economy as a whole, without the style and grandeur of other provincial capital cities, or even like a provincial capital city. Out of the railway station, what you see is a dim and a little old building. Only by walking near Jiaxiu Building can we recall a little comfort to this city. The traffic jam in Guiyang is the most troublesome thing, because there are few flat lands, and most of them are undulating and narrow roads. Even the main roads are mostly four or six lanes, not to mention those branches and trails. Therefore, traffic jams during rush hour are inevitable. In addition, there are so many traffic lights that I feel panic after taking several buses. Public security in Guiyang is also a serious problem, which is often seen in newspapers or TV: in that place, a couple visited the park at night, a woman was robbed and a man was killed; Take the bus, take the bus, many people have their wallets stolen, or girls go to work alone, and gangsters grab their bags or mobile phones on the way. Among them, I also heard my personal experience from friends in Guiyang. Walking on my mobile phone, I was almost taken away by gangsters. Therefore, in the evening, we seldom go out shopping. This is what we are most afraid of when we are on a business trip.
I once heard Guiyang people introduce another origin of Guiyang's name, which sounds very funny. It is said that Guiyang is called Guiyang because everything is expensive! However, this is a profound experience for foreigners who have been traveling in Guiyang for a long time. Everything here is very expensive. Take accommodation as an example. In a very ordinary hotel, the standard room costs about 200 yuan for one night. The conditions are not very good and the facilities are outdated. Colleagues who have been to Beijing say that Guiyang's consumption can catch up with a metropolis like Beijing. The consumption in Guiyang is even a little abnormal. I have seen such a webpage, saying that it is the ninth monster in Guiyang among the "New Eleven Monsters in Guiyang":
People in Guiyang are very strange. The poorer they are, the more they pretend to be men.
Even if you want to starve to death, keep a straight face.
It's glittering outside, and the evil wind is miserable inside.
The skull is so smooth that mosquitoes have to pounce on it many times.
Guiyang people love to wear, and brand-name clothes sell fast.
Some are famous brands, some are famous brands, and the shorts are all Goldlion.
Although he came home wearing a Pierre Cardin and eating compressed biscuits.
Although he buys fashionable clothes quickly, he goes home to eat beans, rice and sauerkraut.
? Of course, this is just some teasing of some hippies on the Internet to Guiyang people, but we can also see the consumption heart of most people in Guiyang. However, from another angle, isn't this actually a positive expression of Guiyang people living freely, freely and optimistically?
? If you stay in Guiyang for a long time, you will see that many buses in Guiyang will carry many praises of the city, such as "Summer Capital", "Forest Capital", "City of Mountain Countries" and "Spring City". In fact, these appellations have little meaning and freshness for Guiyang people. Most importantly, they can live a stable and happy life in such a beautiful and pleasant city.
? Feel Guiyang, feel life! !
Dancing is written in Guiyang Jiutai Hotel/room KLOC-0/009.
July 28(th), 2007