When I first went to Shaoxing, my impression of Shaoxing was very rigid: small bridges, flowing water, awning boats and felt hats were all over the south of the Yangtze River; Living in the hometown of celebrities like Gou Jian, Wang Xizhi and Lu Xun. ...
But after several visits to Shaoxing, I found the vitality here: Shaoxing's rich and varied old basic dishes, Shaoxing's "notorious" three stinks, the developed local economy, the fresh and cruel local dishes, and Shaoxing rice wine with a knife in the smile ... ..
This ancient city in northern Zhejiang, the ancient capital of Yue, became more and more fond of it, felt more and more delicious, so this Shaoxing food guide for all kinds of contraband came into being.
Strictly speaking, the old city of Shaoxing is an area less than 10 square kilometer, surrounded by a moat and centered on Lu Xun's hometown and Jiefang North Road City Square. There are Fushan, Tashan, Jishan, the former residence of celebrities, and all kinds of old Shaoxing dishes.
What is the most famous Shaoxing food? Four words, pickled mold drunk smelly. To put it more succinctly, it can be combined into one word, and that is "smelly".
The smell of Shaoxing is the highest in the world. Among them, Shaoxing people collectively call the three most smelly foods "Shaoxing Three Smells". Everyone has his own opinion on which three kinds of odors are. The three most popular ones on the market are stinky tofu, stinky amaranth stalks and moldy thousand pieces.
A friend of mine told me that whenever he heard the word "smelly amaranth stalk", his heart would feel sick. Of course, this reaction is a bit exaggerated, but I absolutely believe that if most of my friends try it for the first time, they will have the same reaction as Jiasheng in The Story of Pincheng.
The stinky amaranth stalk is made by adding salt to the washed amaranth stalk and putting it into a vat for fermentation. When I was in Shaoxing, there was such a jar of smelly amaranth stalks in every yard, which was mainly preserved. Shaoxing stinky tofu is made of bittern from stinky amaranth stalks. The musty smell of 1000 yuan is more of a physical attack-it doesn't stink at a distance, but it is full of the irritating smell of "ammonia" at a close look.
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If you want to find three stinky foods in downtown Shaoxing, the most enjoyable thing should be Dinglaixing Hotel. The restaurant is near the scholar's hometown, occupying a T-junction, and there are tables in and out of the alley.
Freedom of public comment KK
The dishes are simple and clear-what you see is what you get, just look at the ingredients and order.
Sauce three fresh, the more popular is fish balls and shrimp chicken soup, followed by kidney with scallion oil, fried goose intestines with leeks, fried mushrooms with pickles and so on. The taste is acceptable. I'm afraid it's unreasonable to eat Shaoxing food without a bowl of rice!
Public opinion on deep-water shellfish
Three stinks come out, basically the whole alley stinks-steamed tofu with leek stalks, 1000 steamed patties with mold, and an egg yolk. The stinky tofu is dense. If the amaranth stalk is frozen and moldy, it will be particularly fresh, fresh and smelly, and it will be unforgettable. As a warrior who eats everything, my experience is that a thousand pieces of mildew must be salty! If it's not salty enough, the taste can't be suppressed. Only when the smell and salty taste reach a balance point can fresh food be produced.
Public comment: Eating makes you thin.
Note that people in Shaoxing eat early-if you are used to eating dinner at seven or eight o'clock in the evening like me, you must arrive in Shaoxing early, and there will be a lot of food at seven o'clock! Get ready to close after 8: 00! Besides, there are almost no supper!
The second stop, we came to Keqiao District, Shaoxing, and saw a totally different Shaoxing from the public perception-Ke Qiao is the center of China's textile foreign trade, and Ke Qiao's trade market is inhabited by a large number of foreigners all the year round, as well as some hidden authentic dishes and Indian restaurants. Ke Qiao is home to the rich, and there are also famous golf courses and racetracks in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai.
I have been to a private club of a local friend's house, on the top floor of a building. The design 20 years ago was exquisite and restrained, delicious and tasty.
Still an old saying goes: "When people are rich, they naturally pay attention to eating and drinking." In Ke Qiao, there is a farmhouse restaurant that I never forget, named Shangwan No.1, located in Lvxia Town, Keqiao District.
At the door is a luxury car with water. As soon as I walked in, two ordinary rural villas were built by myself, and the ingredients were all open files.
The signs in the shop are braised large intestine and braised trotters. Simple appearance, simple cooking-pressure cooker, but it tastes really good. There are no adjectives, only fat, fragrant and sticky.
There are also boiled chicken, goose with shrimp oil, pickled mushrooms and bamboo shoots. All the ingredients are neatly placed on the plate. You order at your feet, and the chef at your back feet cooks oil on the fire next to the battery. Good ingredients, accurate seasoning and close to the kitchen. It's hard to remember.
The most amazing thing is a plate of eggs, bigger than eggs and bigger than duck eggs. I didn't know it was a goose egg until I asked the store, and it was a goose egg!
What is a happy egg? People often say "hairy eggs" and "prosperous eggs" often refer to eggs that can't hatch chickens, but a goose-like egg is as big as three chickens.
Open it and see, hey, it's still "full of joy"-basically no egg yolk, it looks like a gosling. Even if I ate it three times without frowning, I was still shocked.
I dare to taste it, it's really fresh, a kind of fusion taste, like drinking goose soup. Have another sip of rice wine, Youyou.
When I left, I saw the shopkeeper farming in the vegetable field next to him. The vegetable field was not big, so I went up to my boss and asked him if the food we ate was planted in the backyard. I didn't expect the boss to reply to me: "Business is so good, how can this order be enough for you?" These dishes are eaten by ourselves. "
Boss, I want to eat staff meals!
For Shaoxing locals, Ke Qiao may be the pillar of the local textile industry; But for people all over the country, another specialty of Ke Qiao is more deeply rooted in people's hearts, and that is Shaoxing rice wine.
In my opinion, the essence of yellow rice wine is the art of fermentation, and Shaoxing people's preference for the taste of pickled mold is also related to their love for yellow rice wine.
This year, I was lucky enough to visit Tapai Winery, and I experienced an old chef's craft in the canteen of Tapai Winery:
The candied dates soaked in wine, dates filled with yellow wine and candied dates give off a strange smell, which is a bit like chocolate.
Steamed taro with stinky amaranth stalk, glutinous enough! And moldy edamame with stinky tofu. Mildew edamame and stinky tofu, one is soft, the other is slightly tasty, the other is concentrated, and the other is slowly blooming in the mouth. Both of them have bean smell, but they are different. At this time, two meals must be served.
Then the home-cooked pickled anchovies. After eviscerating the raw bream, it is directly pickled with soy sauce, and then hung in a ventilated place to dry for two days. After drying in the sun and steaming in a steamer, it is a sharp weapon to eat, especially the head of bream, which is salty and fresh with a little gum, so you can enjoy it when you eat it.
Finally, a bowl of dried vegetable soup. Dried vegetables are what we call moldy vegetables. Shaoxing people dry vegetables every winter, usually with potherb mustard or mustard head. If you are extravagant, dry some winter bamboo shoots together, that is, dried bamboo shoots.
The so-called dried vegetable soup is simply to use dried vegetables with a handful of boiled water of shrimp and onions. The dried vegetable soup of Tapai Winery was put into homemade dough bumps, which made people want to stop.
Earth? Some Shaoxing people looked at it and said, "Isn't this local food and home-cooked food?" That's true, but even in Shaoxing, how many people can you find to add sauce to their snapper and give their stinky kimchi?
After dinner, friends from Tapai Winery took us to visit Tapai's winemaking workshop-soaking rice, steaming rice, radiating heat, making distiller's grains, dropping vats and raking materials ... Every year from September, the winery began to enter a busy job, and a batch of winter winemaking was at least busy until the next spring.
It is said that Tapai is the only brand in Shaoxing that still insists on hand-brewing. We will drink their main wine, this wine, and the handmade winter brewing brand, without caramel color for a year. Refreshing and sour, it can be enjoyed like wine.
If you are in the city, you can also try the pot rice near Lu Xun's hometown, which is also very authentic; There is also a small piece of radish fish in the fragrant farm near Fujie Street and the railway station. Friends who have requirements for the environment can try Yu Jia Courtyard of Kaiyuan Hotel next to Dayu's tomb.
Shaoxing kaiyuan Dayu hotel
If you are interested in snacks, there is a "one-stop service" near Cang Qiao Zhijie-you can try the fried stinky tofu, shrimp cakes, Jane cakes and Mrs. Gao's little cream pot. Cream Pan Xiao is a special dessert in Shaoxing. There is no cream in it, but it is made of eggs and flour. It's called Shaoxing Egg Tart.
Public comment Alex crab
Unfortunately, my beloved Shuigouying fried dumplings are missing. The fried dumplings, dumplings and scallion noodles in that house are not very clever, but they are so simple that I can't bear to part with them. This tells me to eat, eat, be happy and eat as soon as possible, because you never know when you will run out of food.
Chen Xiaoqing, the general director of Flavor World, once said: "There are only two cultures alive today: one is dialect and the other is food."
Shaoxing, a city that left a deep impression in the history of China, has now been surpassed by Hangzhou and Ningbo on both sides. But when we look back at the influence of Shaoxing cuisine on the surrounding areas, we will find that it is powerful: almost all the suburbs of Ningbo and Hangzhou are Shaoxing flavor.
I sincerely suggest that you come to Shaoxing to eat Shaoxing food and drink Shaoxing rice wine one weekend. At noon, I began to eat and drink, wandering around Shaoxing city between half drunk and half awake, and the fatigue after a trip to work was swept away.
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