Su Dongpo's food story: Take you into the Song Dynasty on the tip of your tongue.

Su Dongpo

Born in Sichuan, a land of abundance.

no doubt

People born in this gourmet capital

Everyone has a heart that loves to eat.

A gluttonous stomach and a delicious mouth

Meishan, where he grew up.

It is also the center of Sichuan cuisine.

The situation in the uterus

Naturally, it laid a solid foundation for him to become a standard "foodie"

In his official career.

In fact, it is also his food road as a foodie.

This road

As soon as he left, he didn't intend to stop.

Everyone knows Dongpo meat, and everyone knows that meat tastes delicious. Although this poem was written by Su Dongpo in Huangzhou, the food story of Dongpo meat has to start from Xuzhou.

Su Dongpo's two years in Xuzhou was an eventful autumn in the history of Xuzhou. /kloc-in the autumn of 0/077, the Yellow River burst and the water trapped Xuzhou. Su Shi did not run away like ordinary people, but took the lead and built dikes to protect the city with the people of the whole city. After more than 70 days and nights of hard work, Xuzhou City was finally saved.

When the city was saved, people were very happy. In order to thank this well-led, well-known, and well-known people in Xuzhou, they slaughtered pigs and sheep one after another and took wine and vegetables to the government to comfort them. Su Shi can't refuse. After accepting it, he personally instructed his family to cook braised pork and gave it back to those who participated in the flood control. After eating, the people all feel that the meat is fat but not greasy, crispy and delicious, and unanimously call it "back meat". Since then, "back meat" has spread all over Xuzhou and become a traditional dish in Xuzhou.

On February 1st, three years of Yuanfeng, Su Shi was demoted to assistant minister for the famous Wutai Poetry Case. He cultivated the land himself, so he called this place "Dongpo lay man". The name "Su Dongpo" also came from this. During his stay in Huangzhou, because of poverty, he personally cooked braised pork and wrote his own experience as "Eating Pork Poetry".

The braised pork cooked by Su Shi in Xuzhou and Huangzhou is only influential in the local area and is not well-known in the country. The braised pork, which is really famous all over the country, is the "Dongpo pork" when Su Shi came to Hangzhou for the second time after a long time.

When Su Shi was appointed as the second magistrate of Hangzhou, he made great contributions to dredging the West Lake. When everyone gave him wine and meat to celebrate the New Year, Su Shi ordered pork and wine to cook for migrant workers. His family mistakenly thought that rice wine was cooked with pork, but everyone thought it was more crispy and delicious after eating it.

At that time, the owner of a hotel in Hangzhou heard that people praised "Dongpo Meat" as delicious, and cooked it according to Su Dongpo's method and sold it as "Dongpo Meat". This new dish came on the market, and the business of that restaurant soon flourished. At one time, all restaurants in Hangzhou had "Dongpo Meat". Later, Hangzhou chefs discussed "Dongpo pork" as the first famous dish in Hangzhou, which has been passed down to this day.

Nowadays, Dongpo meat is widely known and praised in the homes of ordinary people and on the tables of high-end restaurants. Although the practices vary from place to place, some are sweet and some are slightly spicy, but they all range from snacks to big hometown tastes and memories. And all this is due to Su Dongpo, a foodie.

The Wutai poetry case can be said to be the biggest turning point in Su Shi's life, and this huge blow made him disheartened. To his particular chagrin, some former friends alienated him like a plague.

Huangzhou in history, which is now Huanggang City, still covers the western Dabie Mountains. Today, this small town located on the Mekong River is only an hour's drive from Wuhan, and it is bustling everywhere. However, Huangzhou in the 1 1 century is still a little-known place with a short history. This is a desolate place.

Although the bleak scenery in Huangzhou is not good, it at least covers the Dabie Mountain, where rare birds and animals often haunt. Other strange things can't be eaten, but pheasants are easy to catch. This pheasant, also known as pheasant, was a high tribute before Yuan and Ming Dynasties. After it snows in winter, the sky clears up, which is also a good time to hunt pheasants in the mountains. Su Dongpo will certainly not let this game go.

This pheasant only costs100p a pair, and the price is extremely close to the people. Although Mr. Dongpo was short of money when he was in Huangzhou, his family spent 150 pence every day. You can see a hunter selling pheasants with a hunting fork on his shoulder, but he still can't help but count out100p to buy it and take it home with joy. Stopping, washing, cutting into pieces, and slowly frying with low fire will definitely make you tender and crisp, and your lips and teeth will remain fragrant.

Or use winter bamboo shoots, boil soup in the pot, and don't forget to put some celery under the snow when you leave the pot. Shan Ye treasures are unique and mellow. They are delicious without any seasoning. It is a great pleasure for a family to drink a hot wild chicken soup from time to time on a snowy winter night.

Dongpo wild chicken soup has spread all over southeastern Hubei, and it is still a traditional good soup. In addition to this irreplaceable dish, Su Dongpo also invented another way to eat it, namely "Dongpo Spring Chicken". Although life in Huangzhou is very bitter, it is estimated that Su Dongpo, a thousand years ago, will also become lively because of his delicious food.

During his four years in Huangzhou, Su Dongpo traveled all over the famous mountains and rivers in Huanggang, enjoyed the magnificent scenery in eastern Hubei and wrote 753 works. At this time, Su Dongpo, although at a low point in his life, had an open-minded and detached optimism.

Su Dongpo loved fish all his life, but he often cooked in person, so he got a wonderful way to make all kinds of fish dishes. In his poem Man Zi the Fish, he described his method of making carp: "Breaking water is as easy as picking up all roads to get bream. There is no salt in the pot, and the snow scales are vegetables. " He wrote the poem Mudfish in Huangzhou: "When the sun shines on the river, the fish is like a jade bottle. Who said "shrinking the item"? It's always a greedy bait. Du Lao was very interested in this. He remembered Meng Sheng in the stream. I feel sorry for my son again today, and my eyes are full of tears. "

A blackhead fish is produced in Minjiang River, Leshan, Sichuan. Su Dongpo and his younger brother Su Zhe used sesame oil, douban, onion, ginger, garlic and other seasonings to make Dongpo cuttlefish, which can be described as "absolutely delicious". Su Dongpo once wrote in "Breathe a new breath and leave your hometown as a teacher": "If you complain about a gentleman, you forget your hometown, and the rice is cooked and the fish is fat and beautiful." He even described the story of cooking mandarin fish "with a huge scale and thin mouth, like Songjiang perch" to accompany the wine in the famous "Hou Chibi Fu".

There is a short story about Dongpo fish. It is said that Su Shi went to the temple to visit his good friend monk Fo Yin. As soon as he entered the temple, he smelled a fishy smell and thought it would be delicious. Unexpectedly, monk Fo Yin wanted to play a trick on Su Shi, so he put a plate of fish in a nearby jar in advance.

Su Shi knew Fo Yin's monk was thoughtful, but he also deliberately kept a straight face. Su Shi said to monk Fo Yin, "I have a couplet here. Can you make couplets? " As he spoke, he sang the first couplet "Spring is always at the gate of Xiangyang". Fo Yin said the bottom line without thinking: "It is better to have a good family than to celebrate." . Su Shi was overjoyed and said, "Since you have fish (surplus) in your youth, I won't share it with you."

Fo Yin realized that he had been cheated by Su Shi, but he still wanted to "tease" Su Shi. It happened that this steamed fish scraped five times, and monk Fo Yin had a brainwave and said, "This mullet might as well be called Dongpo fish." Since then, people have called "mullet" "Dongpo fish", which has been passed down to this day.

1094, Su Dongpo, who was nearly sixty years old, was exiled to Huizhou thousands of miles away. Huizhou, which belongs to Lingnan, was a wild place at that time, and its climate was very different from that of the north. The living conditions there are extremely difficult and have always been regarded as a sinister military country. Only officials who commit the most heinous crimes will be demoted here. Northerners often can't survive when they move to this place, so people have the fear of turning pale at the mention of Lingnan.

But in this place, Su Dongpo wrote "Ode to Wine", tried to brew Gui Xiang wine, and invented a delicious-roasted sheep scorpion. However, in the Song Dynasty, the price of mutton was so expensive that most people could not afford it.

As far away as Huizhou, the business is backward and the market is scattered. Butchers only kill one sheep every day, and officials have to buy mutton to eat. Where did Su Dongpo get mutton to eat? Su Dongpo said, I am a ashamed official, and I can't compete with them for meat. So he secretly told the butcher, "Leave some girders for me."

Girder bone is the sheep scorpion we ate today. Su Dongpo can only buy sheep bones, roast them with a small torch, and then eat them when the flesh is slightly burnt. Su Dongpo picks minced meat among sheep bones all day, claiming to eat seafood, shrimps and crabs.

Su Dongpo also wrote to his younger brother Su Zhe to recommend the secret technology of this dish. He said that he ate sheep's spine every three to five times, and mocked Su Zhe in his letter. You have a good life and have been eating and drinking with public funds for many years. You have sunk your teeth and can't touch the sheep bones. How can you understand this delicious food?

At the end of the letter, Su Dongpo said humorously that this way of eating is good, but every time he picks up the meat on the bone, the dogs around him are very unhappy.

The villain in the DPRK seems to think that Su Dongpo is too relaxed and chic in Huizhou, so he imagines a plan to demote him to Danzhou, Hainan, the end of the world. This time, he is going to take the coffin with him instead of coming back.

Life on the island is more difficult than that in Huangzhou and Huizhou. There is nothing here, no food, no medicine, no place to live, no friends who go out, no charcoal in winter, no cold spring in summer, no bathroom for bathing, no books, no ink and no paper. Su Dongpo, who is new here, feels very uncomfortable and really feels like a year.

But it didn't take long for Su Dongpo to let go and everything went to delicious food. Although there are not many delicious foods in Danzhou, he can always find something that suits his taste. In a letter to his younger brother Su Zhe, he wrote: "The natives eat potatoes and taro for a meal and recommend smoking rats and burning bats; When I first heard about the honey pump and vomiting, I was a little close to the custom of toads. "

Besides these strange things, Dongpo loves to eat his own jiaozi. Not only that, he also has a lot of research on the composition and production of zongzi. He taught Danzhou people to add farm pork to zongzi with duck egg yolk that has been flooded for 100 days, and also taught them to add beans to zongzi with squid and shrimp. These are all specialties of Qiongzhou. Danzhou people do the same, and it really tastes special after stewing, and becomes a famous Danzhou cuisine.

Today, when people see the statue of Dongpo layman in Danzhou Dongpo Academy, they will naturally think of the relationship between Su Dongpo and Dragon Boat Festival and Danzhou Zongzi.

Some people say that these food treasures are all over the country he has been to. It can be said that he ate wherever he fell, and finally ate a "great song on the tip of his tongue." Why don't you want to come Su Dongpo wrote nearly 50 poems related to eating in his life: "300 lychees a day, and he will grow up to be a Lingnan person"; "Artemisia selengensis has short reed buds all over the ground, which is the time for puffer fish to come up"; "I'm full, I hate it, I don't know why I want to eat chicken and dolphins" ... are all well-known poems, and I can be described as a well-deserved gourmet!

Dongpo's life

It is an extremely wonderful life.

He is soft-hearted and saves the people from fire and water.

How dare you argue with ministers in court?

He is very proud to have written immortal poems.

I'm willing to risk my life for the taste of puffer fish.

He is generous and open-minded.

Grow towards the sun all your life.

Even if the dark clouds cover the sun

He can also face life optimistically and calmly.

Enjoy your own little life, a meal and vegetables.

On the way with delicious food