Laifeng Town is famous for its famous dish "Laifeng Fish". "Laifeng Fish" has a long history. For hundreds of years, on the basis of inheriting the traditional skills of Sichuan cuisine, the chefs of past dynasties have cooked "Laifeng Fish" with the main characteristics of "hemp, spicy, fresh, fragrant and tender", which is loved by diners of past dynasties. Yang Xuanting, a famous calligrapher, happily inscribed the book "The Beauty of Fresh Fish" and praised the taste of Bishan Phoenix.
Laifeng was originally a post station on the ancient Chengdu-Chongqing Post Road, which is as famous as Longquanyi, Shuangfeng Post and Yi Baishi, and is one of the "four famous postal services" on the ancient Chengdu-Chongqing Post Road. It has been a land of plenty since ancient times. "Huayang National Records Eight Records" says: "The earth is planted with mountains and streams, and six animals are sacrificed. Silkworm, hemp, fish and salt are all tributes. " Jiaqing's "Bishan Zhi" records: "Scales belong to river carp, cliff carp, silver carp, trout crucian carp, seven-star fish, red-pointed fish, purple towel fish and so on." Seven-star fish, red-pointed fish and green-skinned fish, which are rich in Laifeng South River in Bishan, are tributes of past dynasties.
In the early 1980s, a group of chefs headed by Tang Dexing and Tang made bold innovations on the basis of inheriting the traditional cooking methods of Sichuan cuisine, and cooked "Laifeng Fish" with the main characteristics of "spicy, spicy and tender", which was deeply loved by diners in the past. Yang Xuanting, a famous calligrapher, happily inscribed the book "The Beauty of Fresh Fish" and praised the taste of Laifeng. Famous performing artists Zhang Ruifen and Benchang You, singers Li Danyang and Cai Guoqing, calligrapher Fan Pu, political figure Gao Di, president of People's Daily, and former Chongqing Municipal Party Committee Secretary Xiao Yang made a special trip to Phoenix to eat fish. For a time, diners, regardless of distance and status, gathered in Laifeng to enjoy delicious food.
"Laifeng Fish" is the originator of the popularity of "Jianghu dishes" in Chongqing in recent years, and then there are spicy chicken, taro chicken, post office crucian carp, Taian fish and so on. Later, these well-known "Jianghu dishes" did not get rid of the influence of "Laifeng fish" in cooking techniques.
From ancient times to the present, the formation of "Laifeng Fish" has roughly the following three stages: the first stage is that a large number of immigrants from the land of fish and rice in the south of the Yangtze River came to Laifeng in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties. In addition to farming and raising fish, they also brought the technology of cooking fish from the south of the Yangtze River to Bayu, and combined it with Bayu Sichuan style to form a "Laifeng fish" with the flavors of Fujian, Hubei, Guangdong, Hunan and Sichuan cuisine. It is said that Tang Deaf, a famous chef who came to Fengyi during the Kangxi period, was good at cooking fish and could make more than ten kinds of fish, which was probably the embryonic form of "Laifengyi".
In the second stage, during the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression period, the government moved its capital to Chongqing, and Laifeng, as the satellite city of Chongqing, was named a famous chef. Seeing the beauty of Bihe fish and competing for cooking skills have greatly promoted the progress of cooking skills of Laifeng fish. Many dignitaries and celebrities gather in Laifeng and like to taste fresh fish. At that time, "Laifeng Fish" was famous.
The third stage is the period of reform and opening up; 1984 the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China issued document 1 on rural work. Laifeng District Committee and Laifeng District Office have carefully formulated preferential policies to encourage farmers to work and do business in cities in accordance with the spirit of the central document 1. The leaders of district committees and district offices personally help farmers who work in cities to solve specific problems such as land acquisition and license loans. Some business-minded farmers began to plan to open a fresh fish restaurant in Laifeng Town. Comrade Hu Chaomu, then secretary of the county party committee, personally went to the new building to congratulate him. By 1988, there were more than 120 restaurants focusing on "Laifeng Fish". Competition has prompted Laifeng people to constantly study the cooking techniques of fish; Variety patterns are constantly emerging, thus forming a dozen flavors such as hemp, spicy, sweet, sour, plum, orange, osmanthus and pineapple. , pearl fish, amber fish pieces, salted fish slices, pickled fish soup, white fish pieces, agate sausage, tiger fish, big mouth fish, soaked fish, steamed fish, boiled white fish, crispy fish, fish eggs and fish.
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