Core Tip: Dietary culture is an important part of folk culture, which occupies a core position in people's daily life and is the result of long-term accumulation and inheritance of people's colorful lives. In this inheritance, the exemplary role of the upper class to the lower class is very obvious. In this fertile land of Jinzhong, Shanxi merchants have an impressive demonstration and influence in people's food culture. As wealthy and leisure gourmets, Shanxi merchants with different styles always try their best to pursue novelty and difference to meet their dietary needs. For example, Qiao Jia, a wealthy businessman in Qixian County, concentrated the essence of Beijing, Sichuan, Shandong, Guangdong, Jiangsu, Yang, Zhejiang and Hunan cuisine. Joe's ingredients are very particular. For example, pickles are produced in Yangzhou, shredded coriander is from Sichuan, and fermented bean curd and fermented soybean are purchased from Beijing and Tianjin. Whether flying in the sky, swimming in the water, or walking on the ground, all kinds of birds and animals, fruits and vegetables can be placed on the table of the jstars. Every meal in the jstars has delicious food. Because of his particular attention to food, Qiao Jiaping often spends 50 to 60 yuan per table. Because businesses are striving for food, many local specialties have emerged. The prestigious Taikoo Cake is produced because of the needs of merchants. Taigu cake, formerly known as Gan cake, was first made in Xianfeng period of Qing Dynasty, when Taigu merchants gathered and commercial capitalists lived in luxury. There is a pastry shop opened by Xiangyuan people in Gouzi Village, south of Taigu City. In order to make money and cater to the increasing enjoyment of life of wealthy businessmen in this village, the noodle shop owner thought hard and practiced repeatedly, and finally made this sweet cake. This kind of cake is sweet but not greasy, crisp but not broken, fragrant and delicious. Later, because of the special production method, it was also produced in Taigu, so it was called Taigu cake. Qingxu Feng Meng Cake is a traditional local famous food, which enjoys a long-standing reputation for its fragrant, soft, crisp, sweet and cool characteristics. In the tenth year of Guangxu, there was a rich man named Feng in Nanliwang Village who hired Zhao Jinshan of the village to cook for the Feng family. In the twelfth lunar month, in order to celebrate the Spring Festival, the Feng family asked not to eat greasy meals every day for that month. Master Zhao, despite his superb cooking skills, has been at his wit's end in ten days. One day, I made a cake with white flour and oil. I didn't expect the dough to be too thin to shape, so I had to shovel up the pieces with a shovel, put them on a baking tray, and then cover the baking tray to bake. The host ate it and found it delicious. He asked to continue baking, which was the beginning of making Feng Meng cake. Later, Zhao Jinshan returned to Feng Meng, borrowed 200 yuan money from others and opened a cake shop, mainly engaged in Feng Meng cakes. An endless stream of past merchants brought Feng Meng cakes to various places, and Feng Meng cakes were also widely circulated. The bacon in Dongguan Town, Qixian County, and the soup-faded donkey meat in Taigu County are also famous for serving the rich merchant Qiao's family. The elaborately made Pingyao beef has also adapted to the local diet style and is deeply loved by people. Not only that. There are many ordinary foods and dishes in Jinzhong, which have finally become local famous dishes through the innovation of merchants. For example, "dry-roasted elbow" was originally an ordinary dish, but it was famous for a period of time because of the love of wealthy businessman Cao Jia and became a traditional dish in Taigu. In order to meet the changing dietary needs of the Cao family, the chefs of the Cao family always rack their brains. Once, chef Li Shifu cooked the elbow, but forgot to pour the soup on the table. He was worried about his master's punishment, but he was very liked by his master and got a reward. Since then, "dry burning elbow" has spread. Until the eve of War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, restaurants in Taigu, such as Longshengchang, Desheng Garden and Qingheyuan, all launched the famous dish of "dry-roasted elbow". In view of the merchants' pursuit of delicious food, the chef tried his best to change the pattern. For example, there is a dish in Taigu called "Stir-fried Ice Flower". The method is to pound the ice cubes into the size of walnuts, roll them in white flour for a few times, immediately fry them in an oil pan, grab them in a hurry, put them on a plate and sprinkle with white sugar. When eating, it is crisp outside and cool inside, so it has a special flavor. The pursuit of food by merchants who are not tired of eating fine food not only pays attention to varieties, but also exhausts all edible things and introduces foreign eating methods. For example, "Braised Jiangchi", a famous dish of Taikoo Banquet, was made of python meat. There are shark wings, stone toads, etc., all of which were introduced by businessmen from other places. According to Chen Xirong, a former chef of Guangshengyuan Pharmacy in Taigu, eating stone toad is very common in the south, and it is also eaten in Tianjin in the north, and was later introduced to Taigu area. There is also a dish called "Sticking Sparrows", and the main ingredient is Sparrows. This dish was introduced from Tianjin to Jinzhong. The chefs of wealthy businessmen were tired of eating chicken, duck, fish and delicacies, and invented "Zhuang cuisine" with local characteristics. "Baked barnyard grass" used to be an "early adopter" dish in Jinzhong. "Barnyard grass" is commonly known as "sorghum mold" by local people. The method is to wrap sorghum mold with egg paste and fry it, and then fry it with ham and cucumber. For the past diet, the author often heard the praise of the elderly when investigating in rural areas. Mr. Wen Xiu, a businessman from Taigu Gouzi Village, said that many foods in Taigu were indeed exquisite in workmanship, time-consuming and material-consuming, with various varieties and different names. For example, cakes include moon cakes specially made for children, scabby cakes for vaccinating children, stomach nourishing cakes and bee cakes for patients; Wayong Cake and Bai Zi Cake were given by someone after his death. And the number is amazing, for example, to send moon cakes to children with full moons, large families have to send five or six hundred kilograms, and they have to pull a cart. He mentioned that his dim sum shop sold1.2000 Jin of moon cakes a year. Because of the good quality of his moon cakes, foreigners such as Yushe come to buy them. Today, many foods have been lost because of exquisite materials and time-consuming work. In this atmosphere, although people can't have delicacies, they should try to pay attention to cooking, frying, frying, stewing, frying, marinating, sauce and mixing. Fine cooking of coarse grains and fine cooking of flour and rice make the pattern of coarse tea and light rice changeable. Since then, there are still a large number of Jinzhong pasta, which shows the inheritance and innovation of local people's past diet. In addition to family enjoyment, businesses also have frequent interpersonal communication and business entertainment. In this kind of communication, diet becomes an indispensable communication medium. In every cup, banquet and entertainment, in the carefully created food artistic conception, one business after another was clinched ... This common food exchange between Shanxi businessmen greatly enhanced the scale and grade of local banquets. For example, the first course in Qixian County, "Eighty-eight Sea Bowl Pad", consists of four dried vegetables, four fresh vegetables, four vegetarian dishes, four sea bowls, 16 stir-fried dishes, 16 stewed dishes, 16 kidney flowers, 16 soup and four staple foods, accounting for 88 pieces. 16 fried seafood and meat dishes, 16 stewed delicacies, 16 soup condensed the essence of soup, 16 tenderloin is a local pasta. Pay attention to the dining atmosphere, the whole banquet is orderly, elegant in form and extraordinary in momentum, integrating science, elegance and etiquette. Joe, a giant businessman, used this banquet to entertain the Shanxi Governor in nave. In the warm atmosphere of business communication in Jinzhong, banquets have become a common thing. "One hundred single and eight general seats", "eighty-eight sea bowl seats", "four four to the end seats", "eight eight sixty-four seats" and "eight dishes and eight bowls seats" were all famous business banquets in Jinzhong at that time. The most common social banquet "eight dishes and eight bowls of seats" is also very rich, with sixteen dishes, plus one soup and four staple foods: eight dishes and eight bowls of seats and four vegetarian dishes: dried tremella, preserved eggs, dried lily, cucumber with scallion oil; Four meat dishes: spiced chicken nuggets, spiced smoked chicken, mushrooms and sliced white meat; Eight bowls: Lama meat, eight-treasure lotus seeds, gold and silver treasures, braised fish, steamed cherry meat, mutton radish and crystal elbow; One soup: eight-treasure porridge four staple foods: flower rolls, bean bags, shortcakes and bergamot. Pay attention to diet promotes the production of condiments, and vinegar is a common condiment. Shanxi people are particularly jealous, and they are good at brewing. A well-off family with a little spare capacity in the economy makes it for their own use. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, vinegar workshops in Shanxi were mainly concentrated in Jinzhong area, and the scale of workshops in Jinzhong was obviously larger than that in other places. This geographical distribution of vinegar industry is obviously the result of commercial prosperity in Jinzhong. Wine is an important drink in people's diet. Because merchants strive for delicious food, local winemaking is widespread and the technology is becoming more and more perfect. At Panama International Expo 19 16, all the four wines awarded in Shanxi were produced in Jinzhong: Fenyang, which won the first gold medal; Steamed bun wine, first prize, produced by Yuci; Xianhengyong yellow rice wine, silver award, Jiexiu production; Wine, first prize, produced by Yuci. This shows the prosperity of Jinzhong wine industry. Exquisite cooking, exquisite diet and frequent feasts will inevitably bring about the improvement and perfection of cooking skills. At that time, many wealthy businessmen often designated restaurants to deliver meals for them. Even though there were famous chefs cooking at home, they still wanted to change their tastes. Many catering operators try their best to meet the diversified dietary needs of wealthy families. For example, Jixingyuan Hotel in Qixian County hired Ma Bao, a highly skilled and superb chef, to cook. Generally speaking, what the hotel has and what the guests eat. Jixingyuan cooks meals according to the needs of guests, and guests can do whatever they want. As long as the guests can order food, Ma Bao can make it, and ensure that the guests are satisfied. At the same time, Jixingyuan Hotel has specially prepared exquisite tableware to deliver meals. In order to meet this demand, many people in Jinzhong learn to cook, which makes local famous chefs come forth in large numbers. For example, during the period of Xuanchaibao Village in Fenyang County, there were no fewer than ten famous chefs in Beijing and Tianjin. These people teach the cooking skills of big cities to their hometown people, so that the taste of hometown and Beijing and Tianjin can be integrated. Even the farmhouse meal is delicious and unique. Chen Xirong, a native of Qixian County, is also a famous local chef. He studies hard and is an excellent cook. He was sent to Hebei Anguo, Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Shanghai, Beijing, Tianjin and other places as branch chefs. In order to pursue the color and taste of dishes, chefs are very particular about cutting, cooking and blending, and they are also very concerned about the shape of dishes. For example, this dish, Bagua Fish Belly, is based on fish belly and chicken breast, and then put it in the shape of Bagua palm with magnolia slices and old cakes to achieve a delicious and delicious effect. In order to keep the color and taste of dishes, local cooking has a unique way to deal with animals. For example, in Chen Xirong's cookbook, the method of removing black spots on duck skin in the past is to pour vinegar into the duck's stomach before slaughter, and then let the duck move freely for half an hour before slaughter, so that the black spots on the duck can be easily removed. Local chefs also choose different ingredients according to different seasons throughout the year to ensure the delicious food. For example, when talking about Zhenjiang silk fish in the cookbook compiled by Chen Xirong, he said that the best season for this kind of fish is around Qingming, when the fish eyes are silvery white and golden. After May, the fish's eyes will turn red and the meat will not taste good. The amount of salt used for food in winter and summer is also different. Some of the recipes collected by Chen Xirong are medicated diets, which are used for the recuperation and health care of some diseases, reflecting the importance of local cooking to the way of health preservation. In short, Shanxi merchants pay attention to the exemplary role of diet, which can be described as subtle. In the meantime, every household came into contact with each other and gradually converged, thus forming a general diet style in which Jinzhong people pay attention to diet. The romance of this kind of diet has a long history, which has influenced it to this day. Attachment: dried fruits of 88 sea bowl summer sleeping mats: green plums, preserved apricots, peaches and melon strips; Four kinds of fresh fruits: banana, litchi, orange and pineapple; Four meat dishes: crystal elbow, spiced shredded chicken, elbow flower, rotten chicken; Four vegetarian dishes: mahjong sea cucumber, white fungus, dried seaweed and mushrooms, and cold jellyfish; The first bowl: four fried pigeon eggs and phoenix tail dishes: steamed sea cucumber, fried chicken breast, fried fish fillets, magnolia slices and shredded eggs; Four stews: stewed fish bones, stewed lilies, stewed lotus seeds and stewed fish bellies; Four waist rice: bird's nest crisp, rose box, thousand layers of hemp leaves, ham radish cake; Four soups: alfalfa soup, laver soup, tremella soup and Huang Er soup; The second bowl: steamed whole duck and fried for four times: fried squid rolls, fried eggplant clips, fried lotus root clips and fried cucumber clips; Four stews: stewed fish tendon, stewed tremella, stewed three fresh, stewed yellow ear; Four-waist rice: three fresh steamed dumplings, mung bean cake, lotus leaf cake, duck egg snack; Four soups: sea cucumber soup, squid soup, three fresh soups and pickled mustard tuber soup; The third bowl: stir-fry the elbow for four times: stir-fry a little fish, sweet-scented osmanthus scallops, shredded grapes and sweet and sour chicken strips; Four stews: braised anchovies, braised squid, glutinous rice and braised sea cucumbers; Four-waist rice: a small plum, a nest of silk, sugar triangle, pea noodles; Four soups: scallop soup, mutton soup, chicken heart soup and duck tongue soup; The fourth bowl: stir-fried lotus seeds with rock sugar: stir-fried barnyard grass, stir-fried mushrooms, roasted abalone and stir-fried grey steamed stuffed buns; Four stews: mutton stew, silver thread stew, chicken blood stew and mullet egg stew; Four soups: lotus seed soup, lily soup, chicken blood hot and sour soup, seaweed soup; Four buckle bowls: gold and silver crisp, Lama meat, quail eggplant, chrysanthemum white; Staple food: steamed stuffed bun, flower roll, jiaozi, fried dumpling.

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