Whether it's a fly restaurant deep in the alley or a star-rated restaurant selected by Michelin guide, the only way to test whether a Sichuan restaurant is authentic on the streets of Chengdu is to order a Sichuan-style cooked pork.

In Chengdu, Sichuan, in a Sichuan restaurant with the signboard of "Sichuan-style pork loved by three generations", chef Wang stepped up his display of Sichuan-style pork. China News Service reporter Zhang Lang photo

Chengdu, Asia's first "World Food Capital" awarded by the United Nations, is the joint achievement of "Yummy Mouth" and craftsmen. Diners will not be stingy for an hour or two. They will cross the city to find a crispy pot helmet with red oil ears, or a plate of mother's rabbit head that has just been fished out of a spicy pot. Naturally, many chefs have devoted their lives to a dish.

In a Sichuan restaurant with the signboard of "Sichuan-style pork loved by three generations", chef Wang Qiang is demonstrating the practice of Sichuan-style pork for his disciples.

In Chengdu, Sichuan, a chef shows the ingredients of fried Sichuan-style pork in a Sichuan restaurant with the signboard of "Sichuan-style pork loved by three generations". China News Service reporter Zhang Lang photo

The square two-knife leg meat is slowly cooked with ginger onion, cooking wine and pepper until it is seven minutes cooked, then taken out, cut into copper thick slices and stir-fried. Sweet red soy sauce and Pixian watercress endow the soul. In the rising fireworks, the meat slices were rolled into a "light nest" shape by high temperature, and then sprinkled with a crispy garlic sprout, which added a refreshing meaning to this oily dish. ..

"The first dish I learned was Sichuan-style pork, and the first time I was beaten was because Sichuan-style pork was fried slowly ..." Wang Qiang, who has been "dead" with Sichuan-style pork for 30 years, still treasures the Sichuan-style pork recipes handwritten by the old headmaster. In his view, cooked pork is easy to learn but difficult to refine. In addition to strictly controlling the cooking temperature, cook the meat also needs to control the cooking process in about two minutes like running water, and use strong fire to force out the soft and waxy meat (referring to the part near the hind leg where the pig's tail is cut off, because it is the second knife, commonly known as the second knife meat).

In Chengdu, Sichuan, Wang Kaifa (right), a master of Sichuan cuisine, is preparing to stir-fry two Sichuan dishes in a Sichuan restaurant with the signboard of "Sichuan cuisine loved by three generations". China News Service reporter Zhang Lang photo

"Fragrant, fat but not greasy" is Dunlop's comment on Sichuan cuisine. She also praised China people for "mastering the art of cooking fat".

This "mastery" is not only reflected in the production, but also in the selection of materials. In Wang Qiang's view, the reason why pork belly is cooked with two knives instead of pork belly is because the latter is more suitable for steamed meat and braised pork, while the former is more suitable for the "fast break" of cooked meat.

With the changes of the times, the ingredients of Sichuan-style pork are no longer limited to garlic seedlings. Skin and bones, crispy rice, potatoes, peas, okra, dried bean curd, etc. You can put them all in the pot and dance the meat slices with double knives. A small shop specializing in Sichuan-style pork in the southern suburbs of Chengdu is favored by diners because the chef has fried 108 Sichuan-style pork with different flavors.

In Chengdu, Sichuan, chef Wang Qiang (middle) is showing the skills of frying Sichuan-style pork in a Sichuan restaurant with a signboard of "Sichuan-style pork loved by three generations". China News Service reporter Zhang Lang photo

"If you strictly follow the earliest recipes, you can't eat them." Wang Kai Fa, a China culinary master, said that Sichuan cuisine has changed greatly from raw materials to kitchenware for decades, and chefs from generation to generation have been constantly exploring improvements, such as putting cooked pork in tableware with fire to avoid losing its best flavor due to the drop in temperature. All kinds of innovations to maintain honesty are rooted in the "dietary code" branded in the hearts of China people for thousands of years-never tire of fine food, never tire of fine food.

Of course, Sichuan cuisine can become the first dish of Sichuan cuisine, not only because it is delicious, but also because the happiness on the tip of the tongue carries the collective memories of Sichuanese.

In Chengdu, Sichuan, chef Wang Qiang (middle) shows his newly cooked Sichuan cuisine in a Sichuan restaurant with a signboard of "Sichuan cuisine loved by three generations". China News Service reporter Zhang Lang photo

In order to welcome astronaut Ye Guangfu to end his 183-day space trip, Ye Guangfu's sister Ye specially cooked Sichuan-style pork in her hometown of Chengdu. "Sichuan-style pork is also called' pot door fragrance'. When I was a child, whoever fried Sichuan-style pork could smell it in the whole building. Occasionally bite the lobster sauce, and the taste buds can't help but plan a big meal under the stimulation of the sauce. " Ye recalled that when he was a child, he only cooked Sichuan-style pork at home on holidays. After the meat and vegetables are finished, noodles and rice are left in the soup, which is another delicious dish.

Born in rivers and lakes, Sichuan pork can also enter the room and spread all over the world.

Yang, vice president of the second Council of China Cuisine Association, went to the United States in 1980s and worked in Rongyuan Chinese Restaurant in new york. In the eyes of the second generation inheritors of the non-legacy "Chengdu Sichuan Cuisine Skills", people's taste is essentially a habit, and everyone has their own Sichuan cuisine.