Fishermen like to eat saury. In the peak season of swordfish fishing, as soon as the small sampan landed, the women rushed to the seaside to pick it up. They pick up the tiny swordfish shrimp and throw it in the ground to dry. This is the so-called sun-dried "fish manure", which can be used as crop fertilizer (which can be used as feed). Cut the saury and put it on the grate of a large iron pot. Put them vertically along the edge of the big iron pot, one by one, one by one, one by one. After the pot is filled with salt, sprinkle some salt on the lid and steam it. When it's ripe, call the children, one for each. Children hold it in their hands, just like eating green corn cob. Running and jumping on the beach, eating while walking, fishermen's children will soon find fault from an early age. After a while, a fish entered their stomachs, so they shouted, "another one!" One more! " If you only eat half a loaf of bread, your stomach will be full. This generous broadsword fish tastes delicious, and the more you eat it, the more fragrant it becomes. On the one hand, because it is fishing in peak season, fishermen like to eat fish caught in peak season. From a scientific point of view, fish approach the spawning period in the peak season of high yield, and accumulate a lot of fat and nutrition in the body. The fish before spawning is delicious, which makes people feel delicious. On the other hand, because these fish have just been caught from the sea, they are relatively fresh.
Fishermen who have gone under the sea have this experience, and eating fresh fish just caught from the sea tastes the most delicious. Fishermen catch fish at sea and put them in the iron pot on board, adding some homemade bean paste without any seasoning. After frying, it tastes delicious, which is incomparable to the careful cooking of famous chefs in any big hotel. The fisherman said: If the fish goes ashore, it will taste much worse even if it is still alive.
In the past, people by the sea ate many kinds of fish, but they only ate sea fish, not river fish, because river fish was considered to have a "muddy smell". During the drought in the 1970s, the water in the pond dried up, and large and small river fish died in the pond, and no one cared. Now the river fish sold in the fish market is quite expensive, and some people actually spend money to buy it back for "early taste". Of course, fishermen no longer regard fish as grass as before, and fish has become a precious thing.
The grain crops in the coastal areas of Jiaodong are mainly corn, wheat, soybean and sweet potato.
Corn tortillas are also called "big cakes" and "Baba". Fishermen often say that corn is a cheap thing with high yield. Give it some fishy fertilizer and it will grow. Because of its high yield and wide distribution.
The way to make tortillas is simple. Add some cold water to the corn flour, put it in your hand, heat it in a large iron pot and stick it on the edge of the pot. There is a large population at home, and Huang Cancan's cakes stick around the iron pot, which is very nice. If the bottom of the pot is fried with fresh fish, it will be more attractive.
Pastries are coarse grains, and non-irritating non-staple foods are often difficult to swallow together. Fishermen's women always want to eat raw oyster meat with a piece of cake when driving out to sea. Usually, when you eat the cake, you dip the onion in the sauce. This kind of sauce has its own bean paste, but it is more fish sauce or shrimp sauce, including flat fish sauce, shrimp head sauce, crab sauce, crab sauce ... these fish and shrimp sauces are eaten with cakes and are extremely unpalatable. It is "the enemy of rotten fish and shrimp."
The cake is also very salty, and people by the sea use "fish bittern oil" instead of salt. Every autumn, women cut radishes into thick strips and put them in kimchi soup (some people have soup from decades ago at home, and the older they get, the more fragrant they get). When they took it out, the radish strips were pickled into orange red. They can only chew a little when they eat. It's salty, but it's not just salty. It is fragrant and fresh, with endless aftertaste. When they pick up a piece, they don't want to put it down.
Steamed bread is also called "cake" and paper, which is generally more delicate than paper. In the past, "cakes" were usually given to relatives and friends. When everyone ate, they steamed paper, and their family could only eat white flour steamed bread for the New Year.
Steamed buns, also called "Laibobo" or "jiaozi", are mainly made of fried noodles, instant noodles and cold water. Fishermen often use Chinese cabbage (also called Christina) and meat buns, as well as crab roe buns, prawn buns and chicken buns in Qingdao.
Jiaozi, also known as "water-in-water", has a thin dumpling skin and many fillings in the fishing village. Jiaozi with minced meat is the same as other places. Seaside people like Spanish mackerel jiaozi and jiaozi with oyster stuffing. Jiaozi Spanish mackerel, fresh Spanish mackerel, eviscerated, decapitated, peeled, washed, cut in half, take out fishbone, and mix fish with leek, oil, salt and monosodium glutamate to make stuffing. The skin should be big and thin, some fist-sized. Only two or three are served in each bowl, and most people eat eight or nine.
Jiaozi is made of oyster meat and freshly scalded shredded radish. It tastes delicious.
Noodles, the best is fish noodles. Fresh fish pieces are boiled in water. After the pot is boiled, add noodles and vegetables before cooking. When the rice is cooked, fish noodles, vegetables and soup are mixed together, that is, soup is eaten with noodles.
There are also cakes, such as flour cakes, instant noodles cakes, oil cakes, home-cooked cakes, simple cakes, pies, sesame cakes, steamed cakes and so on.
Sweet potato is widely planted in the coastal areas of Shandong. In famine years, sweet potato is the life-saving food for fishing village people. During the three-year natural disaster, many people died of hunger. Some strong people are hungry, struggling to open up wasteland in the mountains and planting several sweet potato seedlings. In autumn, those sweet potatoes drink the sea breeze and grow wildly. All sweet potatoes are as big as "little dolls". Many old people said with emotion: Sweet potato saved us.
In addition to cooking, there are many ways to eat sweet potatoes: cooked, kneaded into "mud", used to make cakes with flour, cakes with corn flour paste, and steamed bean buns with cowpeas. Wipe the sweet potato into silk and add water to cook it into porridge. In the past, after porridge was cooked, saccharin was added and some sugar was added to make it sweet and smooth, commonly known as "sweet potato thin". Peel, slice and air-dry the cooked sweet potato, and seal it in a jar to make raw white wine grains as snacks, which was also an indispensable "dry food" for fishermen at sea in the old days. Now there are preserved sweet potatoes and carrot sticks in the food glass cabinets of shopping malls in the city, but they are not as soft and sweet as those made by rural people themselves. In Wendeng and Rongcheng, there is a kind of food called "muffin", which is complicated to make. Put the sweet potato noodles in the pot, sprinkle them carefully and stir them repeatedly to make them wet but not sticky. Put a reed in the pot, spread a layer of cage cloth, screen the prepared sweet potato noodles on the cage cloth with thin thread, steam them in water, cut them into pieces, share them, and make them sweet and soft.
Bean noodles Baba, mix new corn and new soybeans in twos and threes, and grind them into new noodles on a stone mill, that is, use the pot below. This noodle is very particular, the particles are not good, the flour is not well ground on the mechanical mill, the corn and soybean are not well mixed after being ground separately, and the ground noodle is stored for too long. When making a cake, mix the dough with warm water, beat it repeatedly with your fist, and add cold water from time to time, so that foam will be produced in the dough. If the basin is full of foam, pinch some dough, fill the bowl with water and put it on the water. If the dough sinks immediately and is still not cooked, it needs to be pounded again until the dough and foam are fully mixed, and the dough is drained to be qualified. At this time, paste it on the side of the pot (like a tortilla), for example, stew fish at the same time, and the fish will be cooked with Baba, which is more delicious than tortillas. There is a proverb called "Fish can make a bean cake and die at once".
There are many ways to substitute vegetables for food. Cutting vegetables to make stuffing and corn bread to make cakes are called "vegetable cakes". People at the seaside often chop seaweed into powder, mix it with corn flour and paste it into Shanghai moss cake. The most common is "dregs", also known as "bean foam" and "bean foam", which was called "semi-fermented grains" in ancient times. It is cooked with a small amount of bean powder and a large amount of wild vegetables. There are many wild vegetables to make dregs. Wild celery is used in Mu Ping and Rushan areas, radish tassels are used in Rongcheng and Wendeng areas, and sand is used in Haiyang County. As the saying goes, "sand is good for slag removal, adults eat it and children catch it." Taro leaves are recognized as the best of "slag". When hoeing in summer and autumn, take the tender leaves, hang them under the eaves to dry, and chop them gently with blisters when wiping the residue. This kind of "slag" has a unique flavor and is very popular. There is a folk saying: "Fried taro residue for three times, the fish will not change."
There are many kinds of wild vegetables in the seaside mountainous areas, which can be used not only for cleaning slag, but also for cooking, cold salad and kimchi. Decades ago, people in fishing villages often dug wild vegetables to satisfy their hunger because of the lack of rations. What puzzles them is that many people who live on wild vegetables all the year round live unexpectedly long, are strong and seldom get sick. In fact, all kinds of wild vegetables, bent down in the mud and perched in the crevices on the side of the mountain, have developed the ability to resist frost and snow, insects and diseases, and are pollution-free and do not need any cultivation. They are all natural green foods. It has high medicinal value, can provide a lot of amino acids and all-round high-quality protein, and its nutritional value is several times or even dozens of times higher than that of many cultivated vegetables. Many countries regard wild vegetables as "healthy food" and "natural food". Wild vegetables not only entered the fishermen's toads, but also were placed on the seats of luxury hotels. The fishermen's home is very grand for the New Year. Slaughter pigs and sheep before the Chinese New Year, steam all kinds of jujube cakes, big cakes and lai cakes to prepare for the Chinese New Year. Dinner on New Year's Eve is a reunion dinner. As a New Year's Eve dinner, there are generally ten bowls of Lai, which are called "ten bowls" and are called the colors of complete happiness, including fish, chicken, pig and mutton. There are many taboos when eating, such as not saying "not enough", not swearing, not putting chopsticks horizontally in the bowl and so on.
New Year's Eve is the busiest night of the year. In addition to worshipping the ancestors of heaven and earth as in other places, some fishermen used to hold a ceremony to worship the sea god at the entrance of the beach, commonly known as "Xie Nian". Five kinds of animals, such as pig's head and mutton, and extremely rich dishes should be prepared in the New Year to show the fishermen's wishes to Poseidon. The sacrificial ceremony was extremely grand. In Haikou, firecrackers did not go out, and cigarettes filled the air.
On New Year's Eve, we will eat jiaozi and jiaozi, which are wrapped in red dates and coins. People who eat dates think they have a happy event, while those who eat money think they can make a fortune. Therefore, those children who can't stand being sleepy are also called to eat jiaozi for good luck. On the morning of the first day, in some places, the hostess holds a red candle as soon as she gets up, lifts the kang mat to take pictures, and then takes pictures of every corner, which means using light to drive away darkness and evil spirits. Then stick spring flowers, and stick beautifully cut dragons, phoenixes and tigers on doors, windows and walls. On the morning of the first day of junior high school, jiaozi will cook some jiaozi, but don't say "broken", say "earned", which means making money. From the first day to the second day, firecrackers were set off continuously, and Nian was sent to the mountain after sunset the next day. Offerings, incense, paper and firecrackers should also be placed when sending new year's goods.
The seventh day of the first month is the "seven days of people", eating cakes and noodles.
On the 15th day of the first month, Lantern Festival, we don't eat Yuanxiao in Jiaodong, but we usually have a banquet and eat jiaozi.
On February 2 nd, commonly known as the dragon looks up, everyone gets up early to steam cakes and wish the spring dragon a stab. Generally, there are millet rice cakes and sorghum rice cakes, also called yellow rice cakes and Redmi rice cakes. In some places, white flour or bean flour is used to make dragons, which are called magic worms and put in grain depots and flour jars to wish the whole grain flour inexhaustible.
Tomb-Sweeping Day. In Rongcheng and Wendeng, noodles are steamed, that is, the noodles are made into swallows, steamed and hung with sorghum stalks, and colored cloth strips are tied under the swallows' tails and hung at home. Long Island places also say that this day is the "donkey's birthday", and sorghum rice porridge will be eaten on this day. When the meal is ready, a bowl of donkey meat is served first, so someone sings, "Beat 1000 and scold 10000, don't forget the Qingming bowl."
May Dragon Boat Festival, jiaozi, boiled eggs, fishing villages get up early to eat Ankang fish. Wendeng and Rushan used to get up early and wash their faces with water soaked in various flowers. On Long Island, after pulling the dew in the morning of Dragon Boat Festival, I went to the beach reef to touch abalone, which is called "touching the eaves". It is said that abalone climbed a lot that day.
The day of washing clothes, June 6 is the day of washing clothes. Jimo people say it's jellyfish birthday. Every day when it rains, a star will give birth to a jellyfish. Jimo eats cold noodles, and Long Island and Rongcheng eat steamed buns. As the saying goes, "On June 6th, see Gu Xiu, a big bowl of steamed bread contains a bag of meat".
In Fuli, the fishing village eats noodles in Fuli. At this time, the clams on the sea are fat, and women take planes and baskets to catch the sea and go back early to make noodles with them. .
On July 7th, every household in Jiaodong was branded with "proper fruit", which means eating small cakes with wood grain. Cakes have different styles, including face scissors, small baskets of noodles, noodles, tomatoes, melons, pomegranates, monkeys, chickens, birds, goldfish, shrimps, crabs and poodles ... After being branded, they are put on with thread and hung around their necks for children to eat.
August 15, eat moon cakes, wrap jiaozi, make noodles and arrows in some fishing villages, and eat taro, peanuts, radishes and sweet potatoes.
On the solstice of winter, the fishing village eats jiaozi and drinks wine on the solstice of winter. It is said that drinking is to warm the body, and eating jiaozi is afraid of freezing the ears.
Off-year, the 23rd of the twelfth lunar month is the day of offering sacrifices to the kitchen, which is commonly known as "off-year" among the people. Sweet and sticky food is mostly used for offering sacrifices to stoves, and glutinous rice cakes and honeydew melons are mostly used in Weihai. It is said that every year on the 23rd of the twelfth lunar month, Kitchen God will report the good and evil of people to the Jade Emperor. Therefore, sticking honey melon cakes on Kitchen God's mouth will make him "say more good things and say less bad things." On this off-year day, fishermen's children sit around the big house in the village to make and eat honeydew melons, and listen to the old people telling the story of Kitchen God. Every family eats jiaozi during the Spring Festival, so besides cakes and honeydew melons, there is also jiaozi.
Etiquette-related foods are characterized by gifts such as marriage, daughter's return to her parents' home, and giving birth to children.
In the old days, the fisherman's daughter married far away and returned to her family on the third day of the first month. The rich man's uncle was driving a mule with a left basket and a right basket on his back, with his daughter-in-law at one end and a gift for his mother-in-law's family at the other. Some daughters made new shoes for their parents, both single shoes and cotton shoes. There are gifts from my husband's family to my in-laws: two bottles of Lao Shao are my father's favorite, as well as various cakes and local specialties. The daughter returned to her family, and her family was not to be outdone. The big cake sent back must be whiter, more exquisite and more delicious. Dough should be made of flour (refined flour) and the dough should be just right. Rub it as hard as possible after it is done. The longer it takes, the better it will taste. When the snow-white pomegranate cake comes out, the family can breathe a sigh of relief and light a red dot as a gift for their daughter to bring back to her husband's family. In addition, there must be "sea fish", dried fish, pickled salted fish, dried crab meat, shrimp and tiger cubs, young fish, dried mullet, dried squid, conch meat, shrimp, shrimp skin and shrimp paste, which is enough for my daughter to eat for half a year. This is a custom decades ago. Now my daughter goes back to her mother's house, there are more fashionable foods, and no one rides donkeys. Most of them ride electric donkeys (motorcycles).
In Yexian and other places, before marriage, the man's family sends flour to the woman's family, and the woman uses this flour to make "wealth", "fish" and "mandarin duck". All the "main ingredients" of these pasta are filled with various kinds of small pasta such as phoenix, swallow and lotus, and a dough sculpture is made, in which a small noodle man is inserted on the back of a big fish called "Wang Fish". These are collectively called "early flowers", which means "wealth is more than enough" and "early birth of your son". On the wedding day, all "containers" (boxes, cans, etc. ) the dowry should be burned with a red seal. Other fried foods, such as noodle fish and fingered citron, are carried around in a "mat box", which is called "personal dry food" for the groom. On the third day, the bride needs to make dozens of steamed buns, fried noodles, ginkgo biloba and lotus leaves when she returns to her husband's house from her mother's family.
In Rushan, Wendeng, Rongcheng and other places, when the bride returns to her family, her family should prepare a "daughter-in-law's cake", which should be made of good white flour, eggs, peanut oil and sugar. When making pancakes, you should uncover the mat at home. (The kang is too hot to burn) It's very hard for neighbors to be experts in kneading dough and pancakes. In some places in Rongcheng, thousands of small cakes and dozens of big cakes should be branded. The more brands, the more generous parents are. It's delicious, which shows that her family has good technology and strong ability.
Nowadays, young people are too troublesome. Girls bring less "daughter-in-law cakes" when they get married, and old people can accept this change. Fishermen have become rich and some ancient customs have changed. However, those eating habits that best represent the seaside flavor will never change. Those wanderers who have been away from home for decades, even wandering in foreign countries, still miss the cakes in their hometown, such as rotten shrimp and beans, and miss the old days when they sat at the bow chewing fish heads and drinking wine.