Ecological habits of camellia sinensis
1, temperature: The tolerance degree of camellia to low temperature is different among varieties. The cold tolerance of single-petal variety is stronger than that of ordinary variety, and it can withstand the low temperature of-10℃, while the tolerance of rare varieties to low temperature is low. Camellia will stop growing when the temperature is above 30℃, and will be sunburned when it is above 35℃. The optimum temperature for growth is between 18c~25℃, and the suitable temperature for flower opening is between 10c~20℃.
2, lighting: Camellia likes half yin and half yang, avoid sun. Young trees are shade-tolerant, while big trees need a certain amount of light. Seeing the sun for more than 3 to 4 hours every day is conducive to flowering. However, in summer, strong direct sunlight will cause serious burns on the leaves and wither the branchlets. It is better to scatter light than direct light, so it is necessary to shade the sun in summer. In winter, it is better to have full light in the south and wind protection in the northwest.
3. Soil: Camellia likes fertile, loose and slightly acidic loam or humus soil, which can grow in the range of ph4.5~ph6.5, especially in the range of ph5.5~ph6.5. Alkaline soil and sticky land are not suitable for Camellia growth. The requirement for soil moisture is to be moist and wet, and the soil should be well drained. Pay attention to drainage in rainy and typhoon seasons to avoid root rot and death.
4. Growth: The shoots sprout twice a year, the first time from the end of March to the middle and late April, and then stop growing in the middle and late May, called spring shoots, and the second time from the middle and late July to September, called summer shoots, and then stop growing. The growth of spring shoots is large. Under normal conditions, the flowering period of single bloom is 7~ 15 days, but it can be as long as one month in winter.
Propagation techniques of camellia sinensis
1, cutting culture: mid-June and the end of August are the most suitable. The semi-mature branches of the same year, with abundant external tissues, complete leaves and full leaf buds, were selected as cuttings, with a length of 8 ~10 cm and two leaves left at the tip. When cutting, take a little old branches as far as possible at the base, and it is easy to form callus and root quickly after cutting. Cutting is cut in the morning, and it should be inserted with the cutting, and inserted into the substrate for about 3 cm. When cutting, the leaves are required to be handed over to each other, and then pressed with fingers. It is better to insert shallowly, so that it is breathable and heals quickly. The bed should be shaded, and the leaves should be sprayed every day to keep moist. The temperature should be maintained at 20 ~ 25℃, and it will begin to heal about 3 weeks after transplanting and take root after 6 weeks. When the roots are 3 ~ 4 cm long, transplant them to the upper pot. Using 0.4% ~ 0.5% indobutyric acid solution to dip the base of cuttings for 2 ~ 5 seconds during cutting has obvious effect of promoting rooting.
2. Grafting culture: it is often used for varieties that are difficult to take root by cutting or have few breeding materials. The survival rate of grafting is the highest from May to June when the new shoots are semi-qualitative, and the shoots sprout quickly after grafting. The rootstock is mainly Camellia oleifera. Seeds are collected in 10, stored in sand in winter, and planted in early April of the following year. When the seedlings grow to 4 ~ 5 cm, they can be used for grafting. Cutting off the germ part of the bud stock with a blade, splitting a knife vertically upward along the pith center at the center of the cross section of the embryonic axis, then taking a section of camellia scion, and cutting the base under the section into a right wedge shape, immediately inserting the cut scion into the bottom of the split of the rootstock, aiming at the cambium on both sides, tying it with cotton thread, and putting on a clean plastic bag. It takes about 40 days to remove the pocket, and it takes about 60 days to sprout and shoot.
3. Layered culture: In the rainy season, select robust 1 year branches, which are 20 cm away from the top, peel them in a ring with a width of 1 cm, bind them with humus soil, and then wrap them with plastic film. After about 60 days, they will take root. After cutting, they can be directly potted, and the survival rate is high.
4. Sowing and breeding: suitable for single-petal or semi-double-petal varieties. Seeds/kloc-0 can be sown when they mature in the middle of October. It is better to shallow sow, use vermiculite as substrate, cover 6 mm, room temperature 2 1℃, and shine light 10 hour every night, which can promote seed germination, start germination 15 days after sowing, and the seedling height reaches 8 cm within 30 days, and transplant when the seedling has 2 ~ 3 leaves.
5. Tissue culture: After routine disinfection, common seedlings of explants were cut into 1 cm long and inoculated on MS medium with kinetin 1 mg per liter, 6-benzylamino adenine 1 mg per liter and indoleacetic acid 0. 1 mg per liter. After 4 weeks of culture, only callus was formed, but not formed. After being transferred to a new culture medium, a single branch of 4cm began to form, then it was soaked in 0.5mg/l solution of indolebutyric acid for 20min, then transferred to 1 every 2MS culture medium, and took root after 4 weeks. After growing on long-root medium for 8 weeks, the seedlings were transplanted into pots filled with perlite and peat.
Planting method of camellia sinensis
1, ground planting
(1) Planting time: It is better to plant in autumn than in spring, if you choose a location suitable for its ecological requirements.
② Fertilization method: Three key periods should be mastered in fertilization: fertilization in February-March to promote the effect of spring shoots and fertilization after flowering, fertilization in June to promote the growth of secondary branches and improve drought resistance, and fertilization in10 ~1month to make new roots slowly absorb fertilizer and improve the cold resistance of plants for next spring.
③ Proper pruning: Camellia should not be pruned intensively, as long as the branches of diseases and insect pests, too dense branches and weak branches are deleted. In order to prevent excessive nutrition and large and bright flowers due to flowering, it is necessary to sparse buds in time and keep 1~2 buds per branch.
2. Potted plants
① Basin size: the ratio of basin size to seedlings should be appropriate. It is best to add 1/2 to 1/3 pine needle humus soil to the garden soil.
② Pot-feeding time: The best time for pot-feeding is 1 1 month in winter or February-March in early spring, and pot-feeding should be stopped in germination period, and pot-feeding should be avoided in high temperature season.
(3) When the seedlings are newly placed in the basin, the water should be poured enough to make the bottom of the basin permeable, and the water should be properly watered at ordinary times. It is required that the watering amount changes with the seasons, and more watering can be done during the growth period and flowering period of leaves and stems in summer, and watering should be properly controlled after the new shoots stop growing, so as to promote flower bud differentiation. During the rainy season, water should be prevented, and watering should be reduced after autumn. The water temperature should be similar to the soil temperature when watering.
(4) Shading and damage prevention: Camellia is generally cultivated in greenhouse, and sufficient sunshine should be given in spring and rainy season, otherwise the branches will grow weak and cause pests and diseases. Sunshade should be used to cool down in high temperature period, and anti-freezing measures should be taken in time in winter. It is advisable to keep pot seedlings at 3~4℃ when they overwinter indoors. If the temperature exceeds 16℃, it will promote early germination, and even cause defoliation and bud falling in severe cases.
Pest control of camellia sinensis
1, camellia maculovirus disease
Symptoms The leaves of susceptible plants appear yellow mottled or colored spots, which are generally yellow. Mottle has different forms, sometimes it fades lightly, and sometimes it has irregular stains or spots. Flowers sometimes appear mottled or marbled.
Prevention and control methods: Avoid using diseased tree scions for cutting, and do not use diseased plants as rootstocks.
2. Camellia leaf spot disease
Symptoms Small dots appear at the beginning of the diseased leaves, and after a period of time, round or oval spots with a size of 2 mm -7 mm are formed. The lesion is dark brown to smoky gray, with slightly bulging edges. Sometimes there is a dark brown band between the necrotic area and the healthy part. In the later stage, small black spots grow on the surface of the lesion.
Control method: Remove diseased leaves and spray 600 times of 75% chlorothalonil solution or 0. 15% potassium permanganate solution.
3. Gray leaf spot of camellia
The symptoms are also called ring spot disease and ring spot disease, which is a common disease in camellia, mainly harming leaves, but also harming new shoots. The lesion on the leaf is nearly round, semi-circular and brown, and the size is 1-2 cm. After enlargement, the center of the lesion turned gray-white, the edge was dark brown, and it was obviously raised. The lesion is clearly defined from the surrounding healthy tissues. In the later stage, black spots are produced on the diseased spots, which are thicker and fall off in severe cases. When the lesion occurs in the new shoot, it often causes the new shoot to be brown, long and waterlogged, with obvious edges, and then gradually sag, shrink, and discontinuous longitudinal crack into ulcer spots, with a size of 3-4 mm, sometimes reaching 10-30 mm. Finally, the diseased tip falls off.
Strengthening cultivation management, making plants grow healthily and improving disease resistance are the main measures to prevent diseases in horticulture. For example, appropriate application of organic fertilizer, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Artificial prevention and treatment of early disease leaves, reduce the source of infection, including the removal of diseases and fallen leaves before wintering, deep burial or burning.
Spraying 70% mancozeb 600 times solution or 70% thiophanate-methyl ultra-fine wettable powder 1000 times solution, 1:1:160-200 times bordeaux solution every 10 day/.
4. Botrytis cinerea
Symptoms: The germs first invade from the tips of petals. After the onset, the affected part was waterlogged and faded. Finally, the petals turn brown and rot and the flowers fall off.
Prevention and control methods ① Pay attention to ventilation and reduce humidity. (2) timely removal of diseased flowers, centralized destruction or buried in the soil. ③ At the initial stage of the disease, spray 50% Sukeling WP 1500 times solution or 50% chlorphenamine 1500 times solution.
5, camellia sunburn
The main injured part of the symptoms is the leaf. Slightly damaged leaves produce pale gray-white, pale yellow and yellowish brown scars on the leaf surface, and the edge boundary of the spots is not obvious, and the corresponding parts of the back of the leaves do not show symptoms. The damaged leaves are brown to dark brown, with obvious edges and slightly yellowish surroundings. With the passage of time, in the severely damaged parts of the wound spots, oblong, oval or nearly round brown necrotic spots appear, which are obviously lighter in color than the wound spots, slightly concave in edge and clearly demarcated from the wound spots. The front and back of necrotic spots are parasitized by bacteria and produce small black spots. On a few branches with obvious exposure, light taupe burn spots can also appear.
Prevention and control methods In the high temperature season in summer, shading with reed curtains and other things can effectively prevent sunburn. If it is potted camellia, it can be moved to a shady place to avoid direct sunlight. In the high temperature and dry season, irrigation times should be increased to continuously replenish the water needed by plant transpiration, or try to cool down and reduce water transpiration, such as spraying water on leaves and spreading grass on the ground. Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer or less during the high temperature period, and apply some potassium fertilizer appropriately, so as to prevent the branches and leaves from growing in vain, being tender and delicate, and being easily burned. In the construction of garden green space in high temperature areas in summer, if camellia is needed, it should be planted in shady places.
6. Iron deficiency yellow leaf disease of camellia
The symptoms are mainly manifested in the young leaves of new shoots. At first, mesophyll turned yellow, but both sides of veins remained green, which caused the leaf surface to lose its green color in the form of green reticulation. With the development of the disease, the degree of leaf chlorosis is aggravated, and the whole leaf turns yellow, and the leaf edge is scorched, causing deciduous leaves. When iron deficiency is severe, the top of the new shoot dies.
Prevention and control methods Improving soil and releasing fixed iron are fundamental measures to prevent and control yellow leaf disease. Appropriate supplementation of soluble iron can treat yellow leaf disease trees.
7, tea yellow moth
The symptoms are also called tea caterpillar, which belongs to LEPIDOPTERA and Coccidae. When it happens seriously, it can eat the leaves of camellia, etc., and it can harm the cortex and bud of shoots. Toxic hairs on the larvae, when touched by the human body, will cause itching and redness of the skin. Morphological characteristics The adult male moth has a body length of 6-8 mm and a wing spread of 20-28 mm.. The female moth has a body length of 9-13mm and wings spread 26-35mm. The front and rear wings of the male moth are brown, and black scales are sparsely distributed. The leading edge of the front wing is orange, and there are 1 orange spots in the vertex angle and buttock angle respectively, and there are 2 black dots in the vertex angle macula. There are two yellow-white horizontal bands in the middle of the wing, and both ends are bent. Oval oblate, pale yellow. The diameter is about 0.8 mm. The egg mass is oval and covered with yellow-brown fluff. Larvae length10-25mm. The head is yellow-brown, shiny and with brown spots. Body yellow-brown, cylindrical. There are several black tumors on the back and side of each body segment, and the yellow poisonous hairs are born on the tumor.
Prevention and control methods ① When the larvae are clustered, the insect leaves can be removed. Don't touch the poisonous hair when picking. (2) At the early stage of larval occurrence, spray with 1000 times of any insecticide in 90% dichlorvos, 50% malathion EC, 25% iminophosphone EC and 50% cartap EC, or 2000 times of 80% dichlorvos EC or 3000 times of 2.5% deltamethrin EC.
8. Tea moth
The symptoms of the disease, also known as curtain moth and triangle leaf curl moth, harm camellia, tea and camellia oleifera, and roll the tip of the leaf to the back of the leaf into a triangular insect bag, which lives in the bag to feed. When transferring other leaves, they are wrapped separately for food. Generally, there are 1 worm in a bag, and occasionally there are 2-4 larvae in a bag. When the larva is mature, it bites a hole in the worm bag and crawls out, and moves to the lower old leaf or the back of the adult leaf near the main vein to cocoon and pupate. Generally, one leaf cocoons 1 leaf, and some leaves have 2-3 cocoons.
Prevention and control methods artificially kill larvae in triangular bracts. Spraying 1000 times or 10% permethrin EC 6000-8000 times of any insecticide in 80% dichlorvos EC, 50% cartap EC and 50% phoxim EC at the initial stage of larva hatching.
9, tea aphid
Symptoms occur mostly in Guangdong, Guangxi and Yunnan in China, and are distributed in tropical Asia, North Africa, Central Africa, southern Europe, Oceania and tropical and subtropical North America. Harm tea, camellia, camellia, cocoa, coffee, willow and banyan. The damage is caused by adults and nymphs clustered on the back and shoots of young leaves, as well as buds and buds. It often causes the branches and leaves to shrink and harden, so that they die, and it also induces coal disease or attracts the breeding of black mold, which makes the branches and leaves black.
Agricultural prevention and control combined with pruning in winter, cutting off the branches with eggs or damaged branches, and lowering the population base of overwintering insects. In the growing season, pick the core or smear the bud to remove the damaged and irregular new shoots. Reduce the feed of aphids to reduce the number of insects. Protection and utilization of natural enemies In the season of high temperature, rapid reproduction and large number of natural enemies, we should try not to spray or spray less, or spray selective pesticides with little damage to natural enemies to avoid killing natural enemies. Or focus on spraying trees that are seriously damaged by aphids to protect natural enemies. In trees with a small number of natural enemies, aphids can be eliminated by artificially introducing and releasing natural enemies such as ladybugs and lacewings.
Chemical control When natural enemies are not enough to control aphids, we should spray them as early as possible in spring to avoid spreading, spray them in May-June to protect new shoots, and spray them in August to protect autumn shoots. It can be mastered that spraying can be started when a few aphids are found on 25% of the new shoots.
10, polyphagia lateralis
Symptoms mainly harm young leaves and stems. The injured part is yellowish brown or grayish brown. When it is seriously damaged, the leaves curl along the outer edge to the back of the leaves, the mesophyll thickens, the leaves become hard and brittle, and the tender tips are twisted and deformed. Morphological characteristics of female adult mites are oval. Length 170-249 microns, width11-164 microns. Pale yellow to orange yellow, translucent. Oval. Length 100- 1 10 micron. Colorless and transparent, it will be light green when hatching, and there are small white wart processes arranged vertically on the surface of the egg, with 6-8 wart processes in each row. The newly hatched young mites are nearly oval, milky white, light green after feeding, prismatic afterbody, obvious segmentation at the end of the body, conical abdominal end, and setae 1 pair. Three pairs of feet. If the mite is oval in length and 150 micron in length, the end segments disappear. Four pairs of feet.
Prevention and control methods The introduced seedlings, scions, cuttings, etc. should be carefully inspected. If this mite is found to be parasitic, it must be introduced and planted after prevention and control. Control agents can be used with reference to field control agents. During the occurrence period, 40% dicofol EC 1000 times solution, or 800 times solution of 20% fenpropathrin wettable powder, or 400 times solution of 20% chlorpromazine wettable powder, or 40% dimethoate EC 1500 times solution, or 80% dichlorvos EC10.