(1) Production principles

① There is a tree in the chest. After observing the obtained seedlings or piles, you should have an idea of ??what kind of bonsai it can be made into, and cut it according to the shape.

②Clear priorities. When shaping and pruning branches, start with the trunk, so that side trunks (branches), branch groups, and twigs are reasonably arranged around the trunk.

③ Apply techniques according to the tree and shape according to the situation. Pile blanks obtained from the wild have various shapes. Careful observation is required before shaping. The "borrowing" technique is used to apply techniques according to the material and shape according to the tree. Make bold "borrowing" according to the situation so that the various parts are coordinated and unified, the theme is distinct, and the shape is produced. Self-contained and interesting artistic effect.

The key points of the shape are: it not only conforms to the growth and development rules of pomegranates, but is also poetic and picturesque, and it must also gradually bend and become thinner from bottom to top, resembling a bamboo shoot. Avoid small heads, large trunks, flat trunks, wasp waist, etc. Undesirable shapes such as protruding bellies, twisted trunks, and tops that deviate too far to the left and right. The stems should be bent appropriately, the roots and stems should be consistent, and there should be exposure in the hidden parts.

(2) Trunk shape: After the pomegranate is potted, it needs to be transformed from smooth, straight, and delicate to rough, curved, and old when it is to be further cultivated into bonsais of different styles. The method used is as follows.

①Section. The ornamental side of the tree trunk (facing the human face) is cut open and scarred to show its age and simplicity.

②Peel off. The bark of the main trunk is peeled off to expose the xylem. When the bark wound heals from green to brown, the xylem is carved.

③Carving. The main trunk is partially carved into small holes or the bark is shaved to expose the xylem. Stones are embedded in the holes to form "horse eyes" after healing. After the wood is exposed, it is carved into a convex and concave texture like natural weathering according to the texture structure. . The carving and digging process should be carried out during the most vigorous period of growth before and after budding in spring, and the wound should be treated with 5-degree lime sulfur mixture or other fungicides for antiseptic treatment.

④ fold. Break off the excess parts of the branches with your hands, leaving the main trunk in the shape of a dead branch.

⑤Tear. Manually tear the main trunk and side branches to make them withered but not withered, and withered but continuous.

⑥Cut. After the main trunk of the newly harvested tree stump is finalized, when the top of the main trunk has grown to a certain length and is proportional to the lower sections, cut off the excess parts of the main trunk and side branches according to the shape design, and repeat this process many times. The pomegranate piles that have been cut and pruned should have lush branches and leaves and should not show traces of manual treatment.

⑦ Bend. The shaping work of pomegranate pomegranate stems is mostly done after the sap flows and before germination. Use metal wires or ropes of different thicknesses to bend the trunk into the desired shape. The bark of the pomegranate tree is thin. Before binding, wrap the trunk with kraft paper or old cloth strips. Then, according to the thickness and strength of the trunk, use wires of different specifications to form a 45° angle with the trunk's growth direction and wrap it tightly against the trunk. . Insert the lower end of the wire into the intersection of the base and the thick root at the bottom of the basin or the trunk (back). When winding, if you want to twist the trunk to the left, the wire should be wound in the counterclockwise direction; if you want to twist the trunk to the right, the wire should be wound in the clockwise direction. When winding, start from bottom to top, from thick to thin, all the way to the top, with consistent intervals and appropriate tightness without damaging the bark of the tree. After the wire is wrapped, start to bend it. The method is to use the thumb, index finger and middle finger of both hands to slowly twist it several times to loosen the phloem and xylem to a certain extent, achieving the purpose of "turning the bone and practicing". When bending the branch, the curvature should exceed the required curvature. After a period of time, the curvature will just meet the design requirements. If the ideal curvature cannot be reached at one time, the bend can be taken gradually. When the trunk is too thick, first drill a strip groove as deep as 2/3 of the xylem in the bend perpendicular to the trunk, then wrap it with plastic wrapping tape, and then use wire or wooden sticks to bend the trunk to the required curvature. And hang and fix it. Pour enough water 2 to 4 days after bending the branches to avoid sun exposure and protect the wound from rain for half a month to facilitate healing. The thick trunks will be basically finalized in 4 to 5 years after pinning, and the thin branches will take 2 to 3 years. During the finalization period, the branches should be loosened every 1 to 2 years depending on the growth conditions to prevent iron wires and other metal wires from being embedded in the cortex and causing dead branches.

(3) Side branch configuration The side branch configuration of potted and bonsai pomegranates directly affects the results and viewing. The distribution and cultivation of side branches should depend on the type. The principle is that there should not be too many branches, sparse at the bottom and dense at the top, wide at the bottom and narrow at the top, large at the bottom and small at the top. The side branches grow at random, the upper and lower branch groups do not overlap each other, and the distance between the branch groups is sparse. Close and suitable. The position of the side branches should be developed according to the direction of the left and right of the trunk, supplemented by the front and rear. When the front is planted, it is better to expose the trunk diagonally to both sides. Each side branch and branch group should develop in a balanced manner, and weak branches in good locations should be deliberately protected. The number and position of side branches depends on the height of the trunk. If the trunk is taller, more side branches should be left; if the trunk is short, fewer side branches should be left.

The side branches are manually pruned, climbed and pulled to adjust to an alternate state, making the potted tree look natural as a whole. The missing branches can be filled by incising wounds to stimulate hidden buds to shoot out branches, or by cutting through the abdomen, grafting and other methods to add branches to fill the gaps. You can slow down the remaining branches and use more pruning to encourage the thin side branches in the middle and lower parts to grow thicker. If the side branches are too thick in the middle and upper parts, thin out the large branch groups, reduce the number of branches and leaves, and weaken the growth. In this way, the thickness of the upper and lower branch groups can be balanced. . Potted pomegranates, regardless of the shape of the overall crown or the crown of each side branch, should be arranged and cultivated into a round head shape or an arc shape, which is in line with the growth habits of pomegranates and is conducive to growth, development, and flowering and fruiting. For the cultivation of the location and growth direction of side branches and branch groups on the main trunk, in addition to using the various pruning techniques and grafting measures mentioned above, the main method is to use metal wires to wrap and tie them, and change the direction of the curved branches to the angle and direction required by the design. .

(4) Leaf treatment Leaf is an important organ for potted pomegranate photosynthesis to produce organic nutrients. Leaf treatment is an important modification method for potted pomegranate. The following measures are mainly taken.

①Topping. After the new buds sprout new branches, leave 2 to 3 pairs of leaves or slightly more. Remove the young leaves from the new shoots. After the remaining axillary buds between the leaf axils sprout and grow secondary branches, leave 2 to 3 pairs of leaves again and remove the young shoots. Repeating topping for many times in this way not only increases the number of twigs and leaves on the branches, but also allows the buds on each side branch and branch group to obtain sufficient organic nutrients, form flower buds, bloom and bear fruit, and achieve the artistic effect of viewing flowers and fruits.

② Wipe the buds. Adventitious buds can easily germinate on the trunk, branches and root necks of potted pomegranates. New buds that do not have any modeling purpose should be removed in time to prevent them from consuming the limited nutrients of the potted tree, affecting ventilation and light transmission, inducing diseases and weakening the tree.

(5) Root-exposed technique: The potted pomegranate has endless charm after being exposed-rooted. It not only increases its artistic beauty, but also facilitates flowering and fruiting, thereby improving its morphological beauty. The rooting method is as follows.

①Soil loosening method. Use bamboo sticks, knives, etc. to loosen the soil at the base of the fake tree base or potted tree. Use the momentum of water to wash away the topsoil during watering so that the roots are gradually exposed. You can also remove a thin layer of topsoil from the base each time and observe and maintain it for a period of time. After a certain amount of time, the tree's growth is basically stable, then remove a small amount of topsoil, and repeat this process until the predetermined root exposure requirements are reached.

② Root lifting method. When repotting in spring, add a layer of culture soil on the bottom of the pot with a thickness required for the growth of new pomegranate roots. Then loosen the soil mass of the tree in the original pot, slightly organize the lower root system, and put it into the pot to make the original tree root base appropriately high. Remove the pot surface, and then trim the visual roots that are higher than the pot surface to expose the foundation. This method is used to improve the root foundation of the original tree year by year to achieve the expected root exposure effect. You can also surround the original tree pot with tiles, wooden boards, iron sheets, hard plastic boards, etc., spread a certain thickness of coarse culture soil at the bottom of the pot, and then raise the entire pomegranate tree to the designed height and plant it. In the future, as the pomegranate grows, gradually remove the increased soil on the pot from top to bottom to achieve the effect of exposing the roots.

③Rooting method. Pierce the bottom of the original tree pot (or plant it in a bottomless pot in advance) and place it on another pot filled with culture soil so that new roots can grow from the upper pot to the lower pot. In the future, according to the growth conditions, gradually remove the soil from the upper pot from top to bottom, so that the roots are gradually exposed, until the soil in the upper pot is completely removed, the roots are completely moved into the lower pot, and then the upper pot is removed to complete the root exposure process.

④The root method. This method is often used when pomegranates are planted in stone-attached pots. For trees used as potted plants, the roots should be kept as long as possible when digging. Then, according to the characteristics and design requirements of the stone, use a thin metal wire to wrap the roots in the stone gaps, then fill the stone gaps with mud, and finally tie the tree and stone together. One piece is implanted in the basin. Later, according to the growth conditions, gradually peel off the soil on the stone from top to bottom, loosen the binding wire, expose the roots, and cut off the useless thin roots, and then you can obtain a stone-attached open-rooted potted tree that is integrated with the stone.