Recently, a fan left a message, hoping that the little farmer girl could compile an article on the planting techniques of shiitake mushrooms. The little farmer girl looked up the relevant planting information of shiitake mushrooms, including: "preparation for planting, recipes, detailed steps of planting, management Methods, harvesting techniques and precautions, etc.”

Then let’s introduce to you how to grow shiitake mushrooms!

1. Preparation

Site selection and border construction:

1. The cultivation site should be one with good ecological environment, fresh air, good water quality, and undeveloped soil. There are hilly fields that are polluted, have no pollution sources within 300 meters around them, are surrounded by mountains from east to west, have short sunlight, and have large temperature differences between day and night. The best water source is mountain spring water or reservoir water. The terrain must be relatively flat, with convenient drainage and irrigation, and convenient transportation.

2. Fields that are often hit by hail and prone to flooding are not chosen as mushroom farms.

3. The border should be made in an east-west direction, which can be south or north. The plots with higher terrain or slopes should be made into low borders, and the low-lying plots should be made into flat or high borders.

How to make fungus bags

Recipe: 1. 79% poplar wood chips, 20% wheat bran, 1% gypsum, 0.1% carbendazim (50% wettable powder).

2. Corn cob (crushed into broad bean size) 45%, poplar sawdust 40%, corn flour 13%, gypsum 1%, lime powder 1%, carbendazim 0.1% (50% can wet powder). The wood chips should be old wood chips that are more than half a year old. The wheat bran must be fresh and free of mildew and insects.

Mixing materials:

After weighing the above raw materials, mix the sawdust, wheat bran and gypsum together, stir evenly, turn it 4 to 5 times, and then add carbendazim Put the lime and lime into the water, stir evenly, and then spray it into the dry ingredients with a watering can.

While watering, mix the material evenly, and adjust the water content of the culture material to about 60% (that is, when you pinch the material tightly with your hands, the wet material will form a ball, and water will appear between the fingers. beads but not dripping).

Bagging:

Using low-pressure polyethylene film, large bag size 25×55 cm, medium bag size 17~20×55 cm. The large bag can hold 2.0 kilograms of dry ingredients, and the medium bag can hold about 1.5 kilograms of dry ingredients.

Before loading, seal one end of the plastic bag to ensure that it is absolutely airtight. Put the evenly mixed culture material into the bag and make sure it is tight enough. Use your hands to hold the center of the packed bag until it does not feel loose and the ends do not sag.

2. Sterilization treatment

1. Build an earthen steamer: Use a large iron pot with a diameter of 1.5 meters, and build it into a length × width × height of 2 × 2 × 2.5 meters. The volume It is an earth steamer of 8 to 10 cubic meters.

The inside and outside of each pot wall are smoothed with high-grade cement, and a curtain with a diameter of 1.7 meters is made of wooden squares or iron bars. It is placed on the pot surface and covered with sacks to prevent puncture of the bags. Then use galvanized sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm to make a pot cover with a diameter of 2.1 meters. The steaming pot will be ready for use after it is built.

2. Add water to fill the pot:

Before burning and sterilizing, add enough water to the pot. The water surface in the pot is about 20 cm away from the curtain, and then tie the bag with the mouth. Align them up and down and place them in batches on the curtain inside the steamer.

3. Fire and heat sterilization:

Start a fire before loading the pot. Start the fire first and strive to reach the temperature of 100°C in 4 to 6 hours. Continue heating and maintain this temperature. 10 hours, then simmer for another night. When the temperature of the material drops to 70°C, take it out of the pot and quickly move it to the cooling room. Wait until the temperature in the material bag drops before inoculating.

3. Inoculation method

1. Disinfect the room: 4 days before use, put the tools used for discharging materials indoors to seal the doors and windows to achieve an airtight indoor seal. The room was fumigated by lighting it with sulfur.

2. Inoculation time:

Start planting when the temperature of the bag drops to 30°C. It is best to arrange the inoculation time in the morning and evening.

3. Inoculation procedure:

It is appropriate for 4 people to divide the work and carry out the operation. Light the alcohol lamp, punch the bacteria, take the bacteria, mix the bags and tie the holes. Bacteria, sealed.

The completed fungus bags are stacked in a "well" shape, with 5 layers in each pile.

4. Bacteria culture:

Keep the room dark and the room temperature at around 25°C. 16 to 20 days after inoculation, use a toothpick to prick 10 to 20 holes with a depth of 0.5 to 1.0 cm at the inoculation site. Use a knitting needle for the second time, and chopsticks for the third time. Prick every 10 days, gradually making it bigger and deeper.

4. Management of mushroom production

Mushroom promotion: After the mushroom tube has been watered during the color change period, stop watering for 4-5 days, and then use the method of alternating dry and wet. Carry out mushroom cultivation.

Or pour water high and drop it onto the surface of the mushroom tube 2-3 times to produce a large number of small mushrooms. In order to protect the mushroom tube and promote the production of high-quality mushrooms, excess mushroom buds must be removed.

Preliminary management:

Most of the shiitake mushrooms grown on land cover are cultivated off-season to fill the market demand for fresh mushrooms in summer. The first batch of mushrooms after unpacking is usually produced in May-early June. , the temperature during this period is from low to high, the night temperature is low, the temperature difference between day and night is large, and it is the rainy season with high humidity, which is beneficial to fruiting body differentiation.

As the temperature gradually rises, ventilation should be strengthened, the film should be hung high to prevent rainwater from flowing into the inoculation tube. When the first batch of mushrooms is harvested, the ditch water should be drained, watering should be stopped, and the water should be lowered. The humidity of the mushroom bed allows the mycelium to resume growth and accumulate nutrients.

When the mycelium in the depression to be harvested has returned to growing white, the ditch can be filled with water and watering can be strengthened to stimulate the rapid formation of the next batch of fruiting bodies.

Mid-term management:

This period is from late May to late July, which is the season with the highest temperature in the year. There are less mushrooms. Shiitake mushrooms grown on the ground rely on natural temperatures to grow. , combined with human control.

The mid-term management is mainly to reduce the temperature of the mushroom bed to promote the occurrence of fruiting bodies. Generally, mountain spring water or reservoir water is introduced to increase the flow of water and increase ventilation to prevent high temperature burning of the bacteria tube.

Later management:

This period is from late August to the end of September. The temperature has dropped. The nutrients of the fungus tube have been consumed in the early and mid-stage fruiting, and the mycelium is not as strong as in the early stage. The fungus tube management at this stage is mainly to prevent rotten tubes and mushrooms.

5. Unbagging, changing color and covering with soil

Taking off the bag:

Shiitake mushrooms grown in the soil can be unbagged after 90-110 days of culture in the bag. Use a sharp blade to cut the fungus bag, peel off both ends of the fungus bag first, then peel off the fungus bag and lay it flat on the border.

Mushroom border disinfection:

After the mushroom border is cleaned, spray 6 kilograms of bleaching powder or 50 kilograms of lime water per 1,000 bags of border noodles, and then use about 2 kilograms after 2-3 days. Copper sulfate is sprayed on the border.

Cover the film and disinfect for 3 days, then remove the film, cover the border with 2 cm of fine sand, use 1 bottle of phoxim, 2.5 kg of formaldehyde and 70 kg of water to sprinkle on the border, and then cover with film for 3 days One day, after uncovering the film, use 0.5 kilograms of potassium permanganate and 70 kilograms of water and sprinkle it on the border surface, then sprinkle a layer of lime water and then drain the tube.

Color change:

After the bacteria bags are arranged on the border, cover them with film in time. Remove the bags while arranging the tubes, and cover with film at the same time. After covering with film for 3 days, the fourth day must be Peel off all the films. If any stray bacteria are found, clean them in time. After cleaning, sprinkle lime powder to cover the film.

On the fifth day, increase ventilation once in the morning and evening, and rinse the bacterial tube with clean water. From now on, keep the optimum temperature during the color change period at 18-22°C, and it will take 20-30 days to complete color change and maturity.

Bacteria tube covering soil:

The soil covering the bacteria tube needs to be topsoil. The sandy soil below 30 cm should be exposed to the hot sun for 2 days without sieving to remove gravel and debris. Stir in 10% lime powder or fire soil and plant ash, wait until 80-90% of the color of the fungus tube changes, stop watering for 4-5 days, fill in the prepared covering soil and compact it slightly.

Until the surface of the bacterial tube is covered by 3 cm, so that the bacterial tube is completely covered. Do not cover it with film during the day, cover it with film at night, and increase the frequency of watering, whether it is sunny or cloudy.

Introduce flowing stream water, mountain spring water, or reservoir water into the ditches in the field. It is best to change it once a day. At this time, cover the water with a film on rainy days and do not cover it on sunny days.

6. Management during the fruiting period

Mushroom shed construction:

Existing greenhouses or greenhouses can be used. If you want to build a new greenhouse, you can choose a location with sunny and leeward direction, dry terrain, flat without water accumulation, clean and sanitary environment, sufficient water source, and easy access to materials, such as in the courtyard, in front of and behind the house, near the village, orchard, and open space among the woods. The greenhouse film is covered with straw curtains or sunshades.

Discharge of bacterial bags:

Arrange them horizontally on the bed frame, with a bag distance of about 4 cm. Each layer can discharge 42 to 44 bacteria bags into large bags. In order to facilitate the replenishment of bacteria bags, it is best to build a soaking pool near a shed.

Changing temperature to stimulate mushrooms:

The temperature difference between day and night must be more than 10℃ in the shed to stimulate the formation of mushroom buds.

Keep the humidity in the shed at 85%. Where conditions permit, you can use the method of promoting flowering mushrooms to produce more flowering mushrooms to create better economic benefits.

7. Harvesting of shiitake mushrooms

Remove the bad and keep the good: 1. If the young mushrooms grow too densely, pick some appropriately and keep a relatively even distance.

2. In early spring or late autumn, you can use fire to heat the mushrooms to advance or delay mushroom production. When the weather is cold in winter, the fungus bags can be stacked together to survive the winter. The mushrooms will bloom again next year when the temperature rises.

3. The harvested mushrooms can be sold fresh or dried. After harvesting, the tubes are allowed to rest, accumulate nutrients, and provide sufficient nutrient conditions for the next batch of mushrooms.