1. Folding: First, fold the cloth edges on both sides in half, leaving a 3 cm welt on the left, and then draw a long garment line according to the garment length dimension +2 cm, that is, the folded shoulder line.

2. Deflection: the left and right ends of the upper cloth (even the edge of the shoulder line) are deflected downward by 2.5 cm, so that the upper cloth at both ends of the bottom edge is about 5 cm more than the lower layer, and the upper cloth at the bottom edge of the shoulder line is about 2.5 cm more than the lower layer.

3. Shoulder Folding: According to the length of the garment +2 cm, the cloth is folded from the shoulder folding line to the lower layer, thus becoming 4 layers. The upper two floors are the front and the lower two floors are the back. At the straight edge of the shoulder line, the inner layer should retreat to the outer layer by 2 cm to get enough lapels, which can be further enlarged after passing through the lapels.

4. Set darts: first measure 6-8 cm from the armpit, and the darts are 3 cm, as shown in point A. Then take the deep neckline line to the midpoint of the bust line as the diagonal position of darts, with the folding amount of 1 cm, as shown in point B. Draw two oblique straight lines, then pinch the top one and fold it down. The double layer at point A is 1.5cm and the double layer at point B is 0.5cm. ..

Because the widths of these two lines are different, the first two layers on the upper side and the last two layers on the lower side are aligned at point C after folding, and point B will protrude, and the front center will not become a straight line, which is exactly the amount of protrusion needed for the front chest. Then take the length of the dart from point A (1 1.4cm) and the bust size is 1+2cm.

Finally, put down the height of the upper layer of the shoulder line and align it with the inner layer, and redraw the sleeve root fat and cuff size. The curvature of armholes should also be redrawn to match the waist, hips and cuffs. Drawing method of large lapel: determine the neckline depth according to the folded fabric: from the shoulder line (8.4cm), the collar size is 65438+2+ 1 cm. Front bust: (23.5cm) 1 of bust size.

Sleeve root fertilizer: (19.5cm) bust size1.5+5.4cm. Draw a big belly: draw an oblique straight line from the neckline deep line to the bust line, and the intersection point of the arc is 1- 1.5 cm away from this line, with the upper segment protruding by 2 cm and the lower segment recessed by 1.5 cm.

5. Lapel digging and lapel digging: Lift the top layer of cloth according to the lapel line drawn, cut it to the depth of the neckline along the lapel arc with scissors, and then cut it to the shoulder line along the front center line. After cutting, lift the inner lapel and fold it to the right, and then cut two arc knives from the neckline of the inner lapel, which should not exceed 3.5 cm. Then hold the neckline of the inner lapel by hand and pull it up with an iron. Be careful not to break the neckline

6. Turn back the inner lapel: align the pulled inner lapel with the shoulder line of the inner layer, turn back the inner lapel to make it flat, so that the deep neckline of the inner lapel overlaps with the large lapel 1.3- 1.5 cm, and the bust overlaps by 3-5 cm.

7. Drawing and cutting: according to the above-mentioned painted inner lapels and restored flat clothes, check the length of clothes and draw and cut.

Style of cheongsam

Cheongsam can be divided into cardigan, cardigan, long sleeve and half sleeve. There are Ruyi lapels, Pipa lapels, Oblique lapels and Double lapels, which can be divided into high lapels, low lapels and no lapels according to different neckline shapes. Split design is divided into low split and high split. Although there are many kinds of cheongsam, the feelings expressed are delicate, gentle, romantic and elegant.