I. T- bud grafting
1. For T-bud grafting, the bark of two trees must be smooth. This method is usually carried out in spring.
2. Cut a scion. Cut at the position of 1.8 cm on the bud under the branch, and the cutting depth should cover the soft green layer under the bark.
3. cut a t-shaped incision on the rhizome. Make a vertical slice on the bark, deep enough to expose the green layer of about 2.5 cm. At about one third of the distance from the rhizome, make an almost deep slice horizontally.
4. use scions. Slide the scion containing buds under the cut you just made on the rootstock, taking care not to bring any dust and bacteria. If a part of the bark of the scion protrudes above the T-cut, cut it off so that all the parts can be properly together.
5. Tie the scion to the rootstock. Wrap elastic rubber material (such as grafting rubber) around the rhizome to keep the position of the bud. Be careful not to squeeze or cover the buds.
6. Remove the cable tie. In a month or so, the rubber wrapped on the rootstock may loosen and fall off. If not, you can gently open it yourself, so that this place will not be tied too tightly.
7. Follow the bud. If the bud looks plump and healthy, it is probably alive. If it withers, then it's dead and you need to start over.
8. Remove other substances. In the following spring, once the scion begins to germinate, cut 1.3 cm diagonally on the successfully germinated scion. Other buds under the scion should be removed to promote the healthy growth of the grafted scion.
Second, bud grafting
1. Bud grafting is one of the simplest grafting methods, suitable for grafting citrus and Rosaceae trees (such as apple trees).
2. Cut a piece on the rootstock and make a small angle oblique cut to produce a small groove.
3. Cut the scion from the grafted plant, put the bud of the scion in the center of the incision, and put the scion on the rootstock as aligned as possible.
4. Guide the scion to the rootstock.
5. Repair the Scion. The elastic rubber material is wrapped around the rhizome to control the bud in a proper position.
Third, grafting
1. Grafting can only be started after the threat of severe cold has passed, but it should also be done before the trunk bark begins to slip (easy to fall off).
2. Prepare the scion, remove the end of the scion, and on the basis of the scion, obliquely remove the end.
3. Prepare the rootstock, select the branches that can match the scion for oblique cutting, and the two must be combined.
4. Cut a tongue-shaped incision, and cut a tongue-shaped wedge on the cut surface of the rootstock and scion, so that they can be paired and hooked with each other.
5. Use scions. Place the scion in a slightly offset position on the rootstock and slide down to make them overlap. Make sure that the green layer under the bark of the two is aligned.
6. Repair the Scion. Wrap the elastic rubber material around the rhizome and control the bud in a proper position.
7. Take good care of the grafted branches, except the leaflets, and remove all the long things under the grafted branches until the grafted branches can successfully absorb the nutrients transported to the trees.
Fourthly, bark grafting.
1. When the rootstock is too big to be grafted, this grafting method is usually adopted.
2. Saw off the roots. Use a sharp saw to cut directly from the bifurcation of several branches, and make sure to leave nearby sprouted branches to keep nutrients moving to the trees.
3. Prepare the Scion. Cut the scion to about 12.5 cm long, leaving about 5 buds for each scion. Starting from the base of the scion about 7.5 cm, it begins to cut obliquely to the base.
4. prepare the roots. Place each scion opposite to the rootstock, exposing the scion section about 0.3 cm above the rootstock. With a sharp knife, cut out the outline of each scion on the rootstock. Move the scions to finish the bark peeling work, so that each scion can fill their space tightly.
5. Use scions. Place each scion on on the rootstock, and pay special attention to ensure that the green layers of the two are accurately aligned. Once in place, in order to keep them connected to the tree, two threaded nails are nailed to each scion.
6. Sealed transplantation. Pour grafting wax or asphalt emulsion into the transplant area, and seal all sections to prevent dryness and bacteria from entering. Check the seal again the next day to make sure there are no holes that will expose the surface.
7. Take care of the grafting place. Pull out all the buds that grow under the grafting. Once one scion grows better than the others, trim the others that don't. After transplanting for two summers, all branches and buds were removed except the strong scion.
The meaning of grafting:
The significance of grafting In the process of production practice, there are also many examples of improving economic value through grafting: for example, ordinary Metasequoia is worth one yuan; Through grafting, the economic value of Metasequoia glyptostroboides has increased by more than 20 times; Another example is the ordinary big-leaf privet tree, which is worth a few cents; By grafting, the economic value of colored-leaf framed trees has been increased by nearly 100 times. It can be seen that grafting is of great significance to the improvement of varieties and the improvement of economic value
Grafting is of great significance to the propagation of some seedless fruit trees (such as persimmons and some varieties of citrus). Grafting can not only keep the excellent characteristics of scion varieties, but also make use of the favorable characteristics of rootstock to achieve early fruiting, enhance the ability of cold resistance, drought resistance and pest resistance, and also make economic use of propagation materials and increase the number of seedlings. Commonly used for the reproduction of fruit trees, trees and flowers; It is also used for seedling raising of melons and vegetables. Grafting, branch grafting and bud grafting can be divided into two categories. The former is suitable for spring and autumn, especially in spring. The latter should be carried out in summer.
Function:
1, enhancing plant disease resistance. Cucumber grafted with black-seeded pumpkin can effectively control cucumber Fusarium wilt and delay the occurrence of downy mildew. After grafting eggplant with CRP and tomato as rootstocks, the occurrence of verticillium wilt can be basically controlled.
2. Improve the low temperature tolerance of plants. Because the rootstock has developed root system and strong stress resistance, the grafted seedlings are obviously resistant to low temperature. For example, the cucumber grafted with black-seeded pumpkin has a good root elongation at low temperature, and the root system can still grow normally at ground temperature 12- 15℃ and air temperature 6- 10℃.
3. It is beneficial to overcome the harm of continuous cropping. Cucumber root system is fragile, so continuous cropping is prohibited. Cultivation in solar greenhouse is easily affected by soil salt accumulation and harmful substances. After switching to black seed pumpkin root, the harm of soil salt accumulation and harmful substances can be greatly reduced.
4. Expand the scope and capacity of root absorption. After grafting, the root system of the plant grows exponentially than the self-rooted seedlings, absorbs about 30% more nitrogen and potassium and more than 80% more phosphorus than the self-rooted seedlings in the same area, and can utilize the phosphorus in the deep soil.
5. It is beneficial to increase the output. Grafted seedlings with large stems and leaves can increase yield by more than 40%. Using late-maturing varieties as rootstocks and early-maturing varieties as scions can not only retain early maturity, but also greatly shorten the fruiting period and improve the total yield.