Bean juice can be traced back to the Song Dynasty. In Cold Water in the Song Dynasty, which carefully recorded the folk life in Lin 'an in the Southern Song Dynasty, it was written that "Jiu Dou Tang Coconut Wine Fighting Water Deer Pear Slurry Brine Plum Water Ginger Honey Water Papaya Juice Tea Shen Xiang Shui Litchi Cream Water Bitter Kumquat Ball Snow Bubble Shrinking Skin Drink' Shrinking Spleen' Mei Huajiu Xiangxie Drinking Wuling Dashun Perilla Drink in the Song Dynasty", and this fighting water is the embryonic form of bean juice. After more than a thousand years, looking at the north, Beijing is the most popular. It was first popular among the northern minorities in Liao and Jin Dynasties, and gradually became a fashionable food in the local area. Later, when the Qing court entered the customs, Manchu brought this way of life into the customs, which just met the taste of Beijingers. Once eaten, it becomes a tradition, a culture, deeply rooted in the digestive system of several generations. When Beijingers leave Beijing, Douzhi is homesick.
But there are also many Beijingers, especially young people, who don't like bean juice. As breakfast, it doesn't have the broad mass base as buns, wonton and noodles. Its taste is too provocative, people who love it love it deeply, and people who don't like it also love it deeply. For example, some people in Hunan don't like stinky tofu, while others in Italy don't like cheese. Everyone has a taste in their mouth.
I always feel that this unexpected smell must be the result of a sudden accident in cooking, but after 1000 years, there is no license to test it, so I won't go into it. Now we know that it is a fermented product of mung beans. The specific production method is: soak mung beans until they can be twisted and peeled, then take them out, grind them into fine pulp with water, and put them into a vat for fermentation. Starch sinks into the bottom of the vat, and bean juice floats on the upper layer. Fermented bean juice must be boiled with water in a big casserole, then boiled with fermented bean juice, and then kept warm with low fire, and served with food.
Although bean juice can't cost a few dollars, it has always been the object of eating goods and not caring about the rich and the poor. In the eighteenth year of Qianlong, someone went to the temple to play the original name: "Recently, a new bean juice was sent to check whether it was clean and drinkable. If there is nothing clean, I will collect two or three bean juice machines and send them to the chef. " As a result, bean juice from the people became the royal meal of the court.
In the cultural circle of the Republic of China, it is also a unique existence. "Miscellaneous Poems on Yandou Snacks" describes the famous Beijing snack bean juice: "Slag can actually make porridge, and the taste of old pulp is thin and thick. Men and women sit together without distinction, which tastes sour and salty. " And said: "The taste is beyond sour and salty, and the eater knows it, which can be described as exquisite." Lao She also loves to drink bean juice, because he was born in poverty. He knows that the significance of bean juice to poor families is not only in the mouth, but in the intestines: "They are more bitter than us, and they often live on sour bean juice. This is the cheapest thing. One or two coppers can buy a lot. Mix some grains or vegetable leaves you can find inside and cook them into porridge, which can be shared by the whole family. "
Mei Lanfang, a master of Beijing Opera, also likes to drink bean juice. During the Anti-Japanese War, when I lived in Shanghai, I couldn't stay any longer, and there was no bean juice to drink. I am eager to get it. Disciple Yan Huizhu went to Shanghai from Beijing to perform, and specially brought a large bottle of 4 kg of bean juice, which was passed down as a much-told story. Wang, a western singer born in Beijing, is dying. He can't forget the taste of his childhood. He must take a sip of bean juice before he can drive the crane west.
In the Song and Yuan Dynasties, there was a famous work called "The Story of Bean Juice", which said: "If scholars don't gather, they will beg for help. It is winter snow, hungry and cold, lying on the head of Jinsong, the leader of the Beggars' Sect. Jin Song went out and didn't come home. His daughter Jin Yunu leaned against the door, expecting her father. Seeing Moggi lying in the snow, she couldn't stand it. She called him in and warmed her stomach with bean juice. Jin Yunu admired Moggi very much when he saw his extraordinary appearance. When his father came home, he got his father's permission to marry Moggi. " However, after the success of Moggi's career, he disliked Jin Yunv's beggar background, was ungrateful, and tried to kill Jin Yunv. After many twists and turns, he ended up with a happy reunion in the second reincarnation. Such an ending is inevitably depressing, so in the version of Xunpai Peking Opera performance, the ending was changed to Moji being beaten with a stick as the ending.
Jin Yunu saved Moggi with this bean juice, but he was unlucky. I wonder if Moggi will remember what a little girl said to him when the snow was freezing, "We have a lot of bean juice in our house, so I'll give you a bowl to satisfy your hunger."
All belong to soy products. In contrast, soybean milk is more universal than soybean juice. Mild and sweet, with rich bean flavor, and silky high-grade bread wrapped around teeth and tongue.
In the History of Soybean Milk published in 2006, it is believed that the earliest soybean milk should be recorded on an unearthed slate, which was made around 25-220 AD and engraved with the situation that soybean milk was being made in ancient kitchens.
The origin of soybean milk can also be seen in existing ancient poems. Zhu Zeng wrote thirteen rhymes for Liu Xiuye's Food:
It's hard to grow peas. It's exhausting.
If I knew Wang Huai's technology, I would get the spring cloth.
Liu An, grandson of Emperor Gaozu Liu Bang, made bean products. It is generally believed that the inventor of soybean milk and tofu is Liu An.
According to legend, in the Western Han Dynasty 1900 years ago, Liu An's mother was ill in bed and needed to eat beans for recuperation (I thought it was gastrointestinal disease), but chewing the beans dry was too cruel to the patients. Liu An, the dutiful son, tried to let people grind beans into juice with a stone mill, boiled them and drank them cold, and got unexpected delicious food. Therefore, this method is widely circulated.
Liu An, who is obsessed with alchemy and cultivation of immortality, knows a lot about chemistry. Adding gypsum to soybean milk to make tofu is immortal and delicious, which has made great contributions to the stomach and taste buds of China people for two thousand years. Therefore, Huainan became the hometown of tofu, and the tofu feast is still popular.
Although everyone thought that soybean milk and tofu had been produced since Liu An, the author found in the literature that the production of soybean milk was probably much earlier than that of the Han Dynasty, because as early as the Neolithic Age, Hemudu people in the south began to grind grains with stone mills, and soybean cultivation appeared very early in China, and the production of soybean milk was extremely simple. Beans are decomposed, ground and boiled in water to make soybean milk. Therefore, the drinking of soybean milk is very likely to appear in the third generation. For example, "Mu Chuan Volume 6" contains: "Shengji asks for a drink and orders people to take the pulp and give it." This pulp may be a food similar to soybean milk.
According to the historian Zhou Benji, during the period of Hou Ji, the great grandson of the Yellow Emperor, Chang 'an planted soybeans, and the natural consumption of beans has existed since ancient times. Presumably, the custom of eating soybean milk was first formed in Chang 'an, and then it spread to the surrounding areas.
Soymilk is a milky white liquid, which is often eaten with fried dough sticks. It is very similar to the relationship between bean juice and inby, and it is a very popular way to eat. It obeys the territory of our country, regardless of the southeast and northwest.
"Compendium of Materia Medica" records that being flat and sweet is beneficial to underwater qi, controlling wind and heat, and relieving various poisons. Drink soybean milk in spring and autumn, nourish yin and moisten dryness, and reconcile yin and yang; Drink soybean milk in summer, relieve summer heat and heatstroke, promote fluid production and quench thirst; Drink soybean milk in winter, dispel cold and warm stomach, nourish and strengthen. Because of its efficacy and delicacy, soybean milk has been preserved in China for nearly 2,000 years since the Han Dynasty, and it was introduced to Japan during Jian Zhen's eastward crossing in the Tang Dynasty, Korea in the Song Dynasty, North America and Africa in the18th century, and gradually became a popular food in the world.
If you pass by the breakfast stand in the morning, you will find that soybean milk has evolved into a variety, including walnut soybean milk, red jujube soybean milk, black sesame soybean milk and so on. The stall owner mixed nuts or grains he could think of with it to make many new delicacies.
However, unlike soybean milk, soybean milk has won the public with its low-key and undisputed peak, but apart from the owners of breakfast chain stores and soybean milk factory, no celebrity has publicly claimed that he loves soybean milk and cannot do without it, so it is impossible to cite celebrity stories here to prove its value, but perhaps it is not important. Anyway, it has already penetrated into the lives of ordinary people and accompanied several generations of schoolchildren for thousands of years.