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4.4 Dialect and Food Culture (2)

However, there are some diet words that seem ordinary, but their connotations are quite different. This is what we will pay attention to next: "the name and reality of dialect diet vocabulary."

The so-called "name" refers to "name" and "reality" refers to "actual reference". There is a situation called "the same name but different reality", which means "the same thing has different names".

Let's look at a kind of food that is very common in everyone's daily life, "steamed bread". In Mandarin, steamed bread refers to steamed pasta without stuffing. However, in other dialects, this is not the case. The "steamed bread" in Wuyu District also refers to the pasta with "stuffing", which is what we usually call "steamed buns". For example, the "fried steamed bread" that is common in the streets and alleys of Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces is this kind of stuffing. If we subdivide it, as in Shaoxing dialect, we call it "solid steamed bread" without stuffing. And those with stuffing are called "meat steamed bread", "vegetable steamed bread" or "sugar steamed bread". In recent years, solid steamed bread has been called "light bread" or "light package" for short.

Let's look at "bread". Usually when we talk about bread, we mean pasta baked after fermentation, which comes from the west. However, in some dialects, the steamed bread or steamed stuffed bun with traditional pasta is called "bread". Such as Fengxian and Jiading in Shanghai in Wu dialect, Pinghu in Jiaxing, Zhejiang, Lishui in Changshan in Quzhou, and Wuchuan in Guangdong in Guangdong dialect, bread is actually steamed bread. However, the Cantonese dialect in Pingdong, Guigang, Guangxi, and the "bread" in Zhongshan dialect in Hezhou refer to buns.

There are many similar situations, such as "noodles". When it comes to the word "noodles", it is estimated that southerners and northerners will have different reactions. In northern dialect, "noodles" can refer to "flour" or "noodles", and "flour meaning" uses the original meaning of noodles. In Shuo Wen Mai Bu, it is said, "Noodles, wheat crumbs are at the end." In some dialects in the south, noodles are only called noodles, and there is no such thing as noodles.

Another example is "rice". In the vast southern region, the so-called "rice" generally refers to rice, and also refers to "rice seeds". The south is rich in rice, which is the staple food of southerners. Therefore, when you say "rice", you don't need to specify "what you eat is rice", but generally you just say "eat". But in Shanxi, the story is different. The word "rice" in Shanxi dialect can mean both "rice" and "rice". If a friend in Shanxi asks you, "Do you eat rice?" Or "eat rice?" Don't misunderstand that the other person is asking you to eat raw rice. He is actually asking you, "Do you want to eat rice?"

We often say, "uncooked rice is cooked into mature rice." But why is there no distinction between "raw rice" and "cooked rice" in Shanxi dialect? The key issue is still related to regional characteristics. Shanxi is located on the high loess slope, which is not suitable for planting rice. Most of the rice it eats is imported from other places and not produced locally, so there is no need to distinguish between "raw rice" and "cooked rice", and it will not be ambiguous to refer to them as "rice" or "rice" collectively. In addition, it is a "special case" to take pasta as the staple food and "rice" as the staple food in the local area, so it must also be emphasized that "it is rice to eat". Therefore, in Shanxi dialect, both "raw rice" and "cooked rice" are called "rice" or "rice".

Let's look at another "porridge". The definition of "porridge" in most areas is semi-liquid food made of grain or beans boiled in water. Some places call this "porridge". There is a special word in Min dialect called "Mi", which is the same thing. "Mi" is an old saying.

In Taiyuan, Shanxi, "porridge" cannot be simply equated with "porridge". In Taiyuan dialect, "porridge" refers to dry rice made of millet, also known as "thick porridge" and "dry porridge". The real millet porridge is called "gruel". The porridge cooked with rice is called "rice porridge".

Do you know what "flat food" means? In Jining, Heze, Weifang, Shandong, and Taiyuan, Shanxi, "Flat Food" is another name for "jiaozi". In the Min dialect of Xiamen, Fuzhou and other places in Fujian, "flat food" refers to "wonton". How did this kind of problem come about? When was it produced? These problems need our further thinking and exploration.

Let's look at another noun, "the same thing with different names". It means "the same thing" with different names.

Give an example to illustrate the influence of different dialects and regional cultures on food names.

There is a snack called "Fujian Soup" in Jinhua, Zhejiang Province, which is usually used by locals for breakfast. If you ask a Fujian person about the practice and origin of "Fujian Soup", I'm afraid the other person will only answer you "I don't know".

How did the "Fujian soup", which even Fujian people don't know, come from?

Let's take a look at its practice first. It is said that this kind of snack is made by pouring rice slurry along the hot iron pot, shoveling rice skin to the bottom of the pot after it is cooked, adding boiling water and various seasonings to cook.

Speaking of which, I'm afraid many friends who are familiar with Fujian cuisine already know that this is actually the famous snack "pot paste" in Fujian. It is called "Dingbian", "Dingbian Paste" and "Dingbian File" in dialect, and it is popular in eastern Fujian and southern Fujian.

It is said that this kind of snack was brought to Jinhua by Longyou people from neighboring counties. Longyou business gang is one of the top ten business gangs in China, which had great influence in Ming and Qing Dynasties. This snack is called "rice paste" in Longyou area and "Fujian soup" in Jinhua area.

The question is, why is this snack preserved, but its "name" such as "pot-side paste" and "ding-side paste" is not known? I think this has a lot to do with dialects.

In Min dialect, "pot" is called "ding", which is a very distinctive and ancient dialect word. "Ding Bian Paste" means "Pan Bian Paste", which is named after its making method. In Wu dialect, the pot is called "wok", which is also a very stable and representative dialect word in Wu dialect. Therefore, when the snack "Dingbian Paste" was introduced to Zhejiang, its original name was difficult for the local people to accept, and there was no such thing as "Ding" in the local area. Therefore, Longyou, Jinhua and other places adopted the most convenient way, abandoned its original name and renamed it. Named after its "raw material", it is "Longyou rice paste"; Named after its "source", it is called "Fujian Soup".