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Adjust the Opacity_Colorful Prostitutes in Layer 1 as shown here. Ч缤妓
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谁能告诉我去哪里可以下载透明Flash特效材？Black background spinning roulette wheel
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It's snowing hard this year! Want to take some snow shots? How can I get the best shot?Based on the shape of the snow, snow landscape can be divided into drifting snow, snow and wind and snow landscape. Shooting snow, you should choose a large diameter and density of snow and thin snow days, and with a dark background (buildings, streets, forests, etc.), the track of the falling snow set off. Photographing snowy landscapes requires accurate exposure, and must take into account many complex factors, such as the weather, morning and evening, the direction and angle of the light, the color of the snow and the cover, etc. Experienced photographers, will be in the metering value on the basis of boldly increase the amount of some exposure.
The first is a simple snow scene, even if there are people, but also the snow scene in the embellishment, accompaniment, the most favorable time and method is: snow is falling, especially in the descending goose feather snow, with a smaller aperture (such as with a standard lens available f/11 or f/16 aperture, distance scale on 5 meters).
The second is to snow (often "snow") for the scene, the main characters, to form a strong contrast between people and snow. At this time, pay attention to the snow reflection can not be directly reflected on the face or body of the characters, the sun oblique ground, the undulating snow itself cast shadows, will increase the texture and sense of quantity. Using color film to shoot snow with polarizer, on the one hand, can adjust the color of the sky, but also to eliminate reflections and reduce color temperature (because the snowy day color temperature is higher, there will be blue shadows); as far as possible with the hood, to prevent cluttered reflected light into the lens.
The third is a person in the snow (often "wind and snow"), the snow can be reflected in the figure of the reflected light on the body or face. Choose to shoot in dry snow and pay attention to the angle of light and the background image.
◆Exposure:
Correct exposure is the most basic and critical issue in snow photography. Snow is a white crystalline substance, and when it accumulates on the scene, it becomes white, thus increasing the reflectivity of the scene. The part of the scene with snow is very bright, while the part without snow is very dark, which makes the contrast of each part very large. Most digital cameras meter for reflections, so if you meter directly for snow, the resulting image will be dark, and you'll have to compensate for this in order to get a normal exposure.
Correct metering and exposure are the key to success in snow photography. In large snowy scenes, using the camera's internal metering system to meter the light and shooting the snowy scene according to the displayed data is generally underexposed. This is because the camera's internal light meter is metered in a certain program, and the data it displays is the average light value of the highlights, midtones, and shadows of the combined scene. This works in most cases, but in snowy landscapes, strong reflected light often makes the metering results differ by 1-2 levels of exposure. In this case, the use of exposure compensation, as appropriate, to increase the exposure by 1-2 levels, you can also point the camera at the middle of the color objects, to take a partial close measurement, and according to the data measured at this time, the camera will be adjusted to the "manual" position to take pictures. Photographers who have incident light meter, in the snow according to the light beam shining on the subject metering, according to the resulting exposure data to take pictures, it will be accurate.
Snow-covered time, due to the reflection of snow, snow part of the background brightness appears very bright, while no snow part is very dark, the contrast is very large for the majority of automatic cameras, metering is based on the intensity of the ambient light to determine, so due to the light reflection of the snow, so that the ambient intensity of the background light of the value of the higher, but in fact the object's brightness is not high, resulting in the metering is not allowed to shoot this time directly. The photographs are often underexposed, the daytime scenery looks like the night, the white snow looks yellow, how horrible ah!
When it snows, the weather is bound to be wet and humid, and the fog may be heavier. If the temperature is not low enough, then the fog and liquid snowflakes are mixed together, resulting in low visibility, when there is fog, visibility is usually within 1 kilometer, this time try not to use too high a zoom magnification, otherwise the picture will be very fuzzy, the color is dark, it is better to get closer to shoot again.
The light reflection due to snow caused by the metering is not allowed, so that in the smooth light and backlighting may encounter a great contrast of the picture, such as shooting pine trees, snow is very white, no snow on the branches of the tree is particularly dark, coupled with the overall underexposure, the row out of the effect is often black, the "snow pressure on the pines," into the "dirty snow and wire. "The first thing you need to do is to get your hands on some of the most popular products and services in the world, and you'll be able to do that with the help of your own personal computer.
Most digital camera exposure time can be manually adjusted from -2.0 to +2.0 in the range of 0.5 for the interval setting. According to my experimental results, generally can be set to 1.0 or so, when shooting can open the LCD screen, this time you can see after adjusting the exposure after the picture effect or try to take a picture to observe, in order to bright and not blinding the best, not enough or too much of the effect is not good.
Exposure compensation is undoubtedly the biggest problem encountered in the shooting of snow and ice, excessive is a piece of white without level, not enough is a gray loss of the flavor of the snow. Camera on the metering system in gray as the benchmark for metering, snow and ice to be much brighter than the gray, if coupled with the reflection of sunlight on a sunny day, the metering meter will be deceived, at this time to compensate for the exposure, the principle is to add, not to subtract.
If you only shoot a partial snow picture, increase the exposure by 1 stop is good, the proportion of snow in the picture accounts for about 1/3. If the proportion of snow in the picture in more than 1/2, should be added 1.5 to 2 stops of exposure; if the whole picture is snow and strong sunlight, should be added to compensate for 2.5 to 3 stops of exposure, the above data is based on the average metering mode. It's not easy to get a good shot of a snowy scene, so the safest way to shoot is to use the bracketing method. Almost all EOS cameras have a bracketing function called AEB, which means that three consecutive shots will be metered with different exposure values, and if each shot is compensated for in a 0.5-step sequence, you will always get an ideal shot.
◆Light:
Light plays a very key role in photography, in many cases we can not go to change the natural light, so we can only wait for the light to change or use a different angle to rationalize the use of light.
Because snow is a kind of white crystal, its reflectivity is high, of course, the sun shines on it will appear more bright. Therefore, in the snow shooting, if the front light or top light shooting, due to the relationship between the light level or vertical irradiation, not only can not make the snow-white fine crystal objects to produce light and dark levels and texture, but also make the scene lose three-dimensional sense. Therefore, in order to show the snow scene of the dark and light levels and the transparent texture of the snow, the use of backlighting or back side light shooting snow scene is most appropriate. However, backlight or side light irradiation in the white area of the larger snow scene, not covered by the snow of the other tones of the scene is bound to be easy to become black, so in order to make the snow and other tones of the scene in the snow can have a sense of hierarchy, shoot the snow scene must be selected soft sunlight.
Shooting snow scene, the best is a clear day after the snow, such as can catch the early morning light is better. In the sun, the use of side light and side backlighting, the most expressive of the snow scene of the dark and light level and the transparent texture of the snow particles, the shadow is also rich in change, even if it is a distant view, but also can produce a far-reaching atmosphere. If you are shooting people in the snow, it is best to add auxiliary light on the face, the camera lens to wear a hood. If you use black-and-white film to shoot the snow, you should add a deep yellow, orange or yellow-green filter to suppress the sky shadow, weaken the brightness of the snow, so that the scene is soft. If you use color film to shoot snow, it is best to use polarizing filters to absorb the polarized light reflected by the snow, reduce brightness, adjust the tone, so that the white clouds in the blue sky is prominent, but also to improve the saturation of color.
Generally speaking, increase the exposure compensation can achieve a better effect, of course, this is not absolute, according to the scene of the environment, so after shooting the timely playback of the picture, to determine the exposure compensation increase or decrease. It should be noted that not all snow scenes need exposure compensation, only the snow in the picture accounted for most of the area to consider exposure compensation.
Good use of flash, slow synchronization when necessary due to the background light is bright, in the backlight or shadow objects appear to be insufficient brightness, the need to make up the flash, in order to shoot out of the level, and flash distance is generally more limited, so also pay attention to the shooting distance is not too far.
◆Shutter:
Wind and snow shooting, if you use 1/30 second shutter speed, you can shoot the wind-blown snowflakes of the flow of feeling, thus increasing the work of the picture line structure.
If you need to take a picture of snowflakes flying in the sky, then you should choose a deeper background, so as to avoid the interference of the background. At the same time, the shutter speed should not be too high, generally in 1/125 seconds or so, so that the snowflakes can form a line, showing the dynamics of snowflakes.
In the snowy days, to get a picture of snowflakes flying, you should choose a dark background as a backdrop; shutter speed should not be too high, generally 115 to 160 seconds is appropriate, so that the snowflakes flying to form a line with a sense of movement of snowflakes falling. When shooting snowy characters, pay attention to not letting the snowflakes too close to the lens, so as not to let the snowflakes block the face because of the perspective relationship.
◆Reference:
Shooting snow scene should also make full use of the branches of trees with snow or hanging ice, fence walls, buildings, etc. for the foreground, to improve the expressive power of the snow scene, increase the spatial depth of the picture, and enhance the people's feeling of snow and ice.
Scenery full of snow may look a little dull, you can add some colorful objects to add the highlights of the snow scene. For example, the use of hanging ice or snow covered with thick pine tree branches, dotted with flowers and green advertising signage light poles, or buildings as the foreground of the shooting, you can increase the spatial depth, improve the expressive power of the snow, so that the whole picture of the connotation of the richer, not because of the white one and make the viewer tired of the mood.
◆Filter:
Polarizer (PL mirror) is a particularly effective auxiliary filter when shooting snow and ice. Its first function is to effectively eliminate reflections, excluding strong point reflections. With this function, you can control the degree of reflection of snow and ice when shooting to achieve the best level of performance. The method of use is to mount the polarizer on the lens of the SLR camera, slowly rotate the polarizer, you can observe the degree of reflection in the viewfinder to achieve the desired effect. The second function of the polarizer is to enhance the absorption of blue-violet light without affecting other colors. This way, on a clear day, blue sky and white snow will show up very well, otherwise the layers of snow and ice will be lost and the picture will be very different from what you see.
Do I need exposure compensation when using a polarizer (PL lens)? Compensation is still necessary in order to express the white color of snow and ice. After using a polarizing lens, the dark areas of the picture are enhanced, and if you add a level of compensation based on the normal standard, the dark areas will lose their level, so in order to have a balanced picture, it is better to reduce the exposure compensation after adding a polarizing lens by 1/4 to 1/3 of the exposure compensation before adding it.
◇◇Protection:
Another important issue in snow is to protect your equipment. As the temperature is low in winter and the air is humid, such environment is likely to affect the use of digital camera. Therefore, a simple cold and moisture treatment is necessary, such as a simple plastic bag can play a very good effect. When you are not shooting, you can put the camera in the clothes, which can achieve the effect of heat preservation. Also need to pay attention to the insulation of the battery, the battery in the low temperature consumption is very fast, insulation can improve its use of time, of course, prepare more batteries is also very necessary. The last is to pay attention to personal insulation, clothing, hats, gloves, these are ready, winter is really cold.
◆Condensation:
Because of the cold weather, we have to avoid long time shooting at low temperatures, in order to prevent premature aging of the machine. In addition, when the digital video camera from the cold place to a warmer place is prone to moisture condensation, at this time will be due to the camera tape and the magnetic drum of the camera adhesion, the camera automatically protects the camera, recording buttons temporarily disabled, can not continue to shoot, so be careful to avoid this situation.
If you have to take the digital camcorder from a cold place to a warmer place, such as from the ski resort back to the hotel room, you can first digital camcorder in a plastic bag, and then sealed, when the temperature of the air inside the bag to reach the surrounding ambient temperature and then take off the plastic bag, which can effectively prevent the phenomenon of moisture condensation.
If you use the viewfinder to shoot, then in the cold winter you will encounter such a problem: you exhale water vapor on the body becomes a haze, and sometimes even the lens will be your vapor "pollution", so you'd better carry a soft cloth to clean the body at any time, and it is best to take a mask or slowly exhale, so it is best to take a shot with a If you're shooting for a short period of time, you can hold your breath for a while.
Of course, if you're using an LCD monitor to view the scene, this won't be a problem, but as mentioned earlier, using the viewfinder can leave a lot of power on the camera, so it's wise to use it when your battery is tight.
Be careful not to mist the lens.
Pay attention to the moisture, if it is snowing, be sure to use a cover on top of the camera, otherwise the camera into the water will be more trouble!
◆Batteries:
Batteries are another big problem in snow photography, the low temperature makes the battery consumption very fast. If the battery is half charged at -20 degrees Celsius, it will be depleted at -5 degrees Celsius.
Battery use time in low temperatures is greatly shortened, so in the winter out of the shooting to pay attention to good battery time to grasp, we can make up for this shortcoming through the following methods, it is best to have enough spare batteries, two batteries should be able to add up to the use of time can greatly extend your shooting time, in the absence of shooting, it is best for us to take the batteries off from the body, into the pocket of a cotton shirt, so that the battery is not used in the shooting. When not shooting, we'd better take the battery off the camera body and put it into the pocket of the cotton jacket, which can also effectively extend the battery usage time. In addition, using the viewfinder to shoot can also save power than using the LCD monitor, when the power is tight we recommend that you use the viewfinder to shoot.
Responders: love eating home-cooked meals - manager level 4 1-2822:37
My space has everything all about photography
However, I use the 400d, but there is not a lot of snow in Beijing
I'm not so sure I can tell you that I don't shoot a lot either ....
Hmmm.... You can use landscape or M to try bracketing when the aperture and shutter are about the same...
Another important thing is to get the white balance right. Don't let the snow scene off-color
First, I'll give you an article
<turn> in the winter shooting tips
Winter is the most wonderful time of the year, both sunny days to blizzards and other climatic phenomena, for the photographer to provide excellent material for photographs. Here are 9 great ways to make the most of this winter season.
1. Color
Winter snow can be a great subject, but a photo that's all snow can look a little dull. You can add some colorful objects to brighten up a snowy scene like the red car in this photo. When you're shooting after a snowstorm, it's all you need to turn this gray weather photo into a beautiful winter picture.
2. Holiday lights
Colorful holiday lights make for colorful photos. You might think that nighttime is the best time to take pictures of them, and that's why you think nighttime is the ideal time to take pictures of them. But the truth is that the result is just a few dots of color on a black background. If you try to shoot in the "magic hour" at dawn or dusk, you can also record some details in the scene, and the picture is more interesting. A tripod is a must, and bracketing is a good method.
3. Sunrise
The sun usually rises early in the summer. In winter, the sun rises later, which means you don't have to get up early to capture these beautiful views. You can meter the sky to the side of the sun (but don't let the sun enter the camera's frame), as in this example.
4. After a snowstorm
Winter is a time of frequent snow and wind, but after a snowstorm, there's a feeling of clear skies and incredibly bright light. If you want to shoot this kind of scenery, you need to be prepared to observe it. Check the local weather forecast to see when the storm will occur, and scout out areas where beautiful landscapes are likely to appear.
5. Shooting in "bad" weather
Many photographers hide indoors and whine when the weather gets "bad". In fact, they're missing out on a great time to shoot, because this type of weather often produces amazing work. Don't let yourself be one of the whiners. Gear up (wear layers) and protect your gear in bad conditions, then look for material.
6. Bare Branches
The colorful foliage of fall often makes photographers stay. But you shouldn't overlook the trees that have shed their leaves in the winter. They can provide great subject matter. You can shoot them from underneath with a wide-angle lens up, as shown in one of the photos here, or from a distance with a telephoto lens. Either way, the key is to highlight the interesting parts of the tree's branches. If you're shooting from right underneath the tree and upwards, reduce the aperture and increase the depth of field so that every detail in the photo is clearly visible.
7, icicles
Icicles will add an interesting element to the photo. You can move in close to capture just a portion of a single icicle, or move farther away to capture their surroundings. You can also circle around and photograph them in either foreground or background light. When taking close-ups, also reduce the lens aperture and maximize the depth of field.
8, window filter effect
Windows can produce interesting variations on water in the winter, like fog and drizzle. These visible moisture can be great photo subjects in their own right, but they can also be interesting "filters" for you. By focusing on water droplets or fog, the various scenes outside your window can take on a variety of structural effects. If your camera has a depth-of-field preview function, you can try to change the aperture size of the various effects; if not, you try to shoot the aperture of the largest aperture, half the aperture and the smallest aperture of the three effects.
9, snow exposure
Metering meter (including in-camera metering system) are in the gray density as the exposure standard, if you according to the meter readings to the exposure, you shoot the photo is gray tones. Snow is usually considered to be white, not gray, so photos of snow are most effective when the exposure tone is white. The omni-directional meter that comes with the AF35mmSLR camera now does a superb job of reproducing snowy scenes without any corrections, but with the old center meter, you should increase the exposure by 1-1/2 stops over the meter's reading when shooting. For AE mode, you can compensate for exposure by +1 to +1.5 stops. If you don't compensate the exposure, you and your meter will be "fooled" by the snow and the photo will be dark. The first time you take a picture of snow with your own camera, you can step up the exposure, take a few pictures, and take notes to see how much exposure you need to compensate for to achieve your desired photo effect
It also depends on how you like it