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The history of Japanese eating puffer fish: from prohibition to opening
Eating puffer fish has a long history, and a fasting order was issued: eating puffer fish confiscated property and detained.
Since the Edo period, the custom of eating puffer fish has been circulating in Japan, but the thrilling dolphin meat will be the last dinner for diners if it is not careful. There is no antidote to the poisonous puffer fish, and the size of the needle tip is enough to kill people. So secretive, some people can't help but be tempted. Toyotomi Hideyoshi has weakened its national strength because too many warriors have died of puffer fish poison, and even issued a fasting order: eating puffer fish will even lead to confiscation of property and even detention; Today, this ban, which is still valid, has made no one in the Japanese royal family taste this delicious food.
The turning point of the ban: Ito Bowen's key bite
Later, in the Meiji era, Hirofumi Ito, the prime minister of Japan's first generation, ate puffer fish by chance. After eating it, Ito sighed that there was such delicious food in the world and immediately called for the lifting of the ban on puffer fish. First, the ban on eating puffer fish was lifted in Yamaguchi Prefecture. In order to commemorate this historic moment, there is a monument in front of Shimonoseki Chunfan Building to commemorate Ito Bowen's eating of puffer fish.
Eat puffer fish scientifically: make rules for eating puffer fish and set up qualification certificate for puffer fish chef.
Later, Japanese university professors began to study the toxicity of puffer fish, carefully studied all kinds of puffer fish, and scientifically verified the strength, properties and detoxification methods of the poison. Finally, in 1892, from Tokyo, all regions began to eat puffer fish scientifically.
In modern times, the government finally gave in. In the new food hygiene law, the rules for eating puffer fish were formulated in detail, and the examination for the qualification certificate of puffer fish chefs was also set. Only with this qualification can chefs scientifically handle their toxins according to different puffer fish and sell puffer fish. It also lists in detail which parts of puffer fish can be made and sold.
Poisoning by puffer fish still happens from time to time, and it once poisoned "national treasure"
Even though detailed rules and chef's qualification certificate have been formulated, puffer fish poisoning still happens from time to time, and the most famous dolphin eater is Mitsugoro Bando, the "Japanese national treasure".
Mitsugoro Bando, the legendary kabuki player of the eighth generation, is an absolute food expert, especially fond of puffer fish, boasting that all poisons are invulnerable. 1975 1 month 16, he walked into a famous puffer fish shop with a singer and friends. After three rounds of drinking, a young director who wants to win the favor of Sakamoto suggested trying the liver of the puffer fish, which is the ultimate taste for gourmets. Four square dolphin livers, only 1.4 cm wide, were slowly handed over from Geji, flawless and crystal clear. Whether it's food or a kiss of death, no one dares to move, except Sakamoto. He sipped his lips and seemed deeply moved by the delicate and smooth touch, swallowing four pieces in a row. He died at night, and Japan was shocked.
Poisoning accidents have also occurred in the puffer fish Michelin two-star shop.
Cases of poisoning in shops with complete qualification procedures are not without in Japan today. Just 20 1 1 year 1 1 month, there was a poisoning incident in a famous shop in Ginza, which also caused great social repercussions at that time. After several months of introspection and rectification after the poisoning incident, Fuzhi reopened at the beginning of 20 12. Speaking of this, this Fuzhi is also a two-star Michelin star, and it has always been well evaluated. There will be such accidents, which shows that it is really a "desperate to eat puffer fish".
However, even if you are not afraid of poisoning, you should consider eating puffer fish: due to the decrease of its catch year by year, the price of puffer fish has been rising, with an average of150,000 yen per piece in recent years, and the demand is still in short supply, so it is necessary to make a reservation several months in advance before you can eat it.
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How do Japanese eat puffer fish?
The season of eating puffer fish
Japanese people eat puffer fish from the other side of autumn to the other side of spring, that is, from late September to late March. Especially the puffer fish from1February to February, because it is about to enter the spawning period, its flesh color is crystal clear and its meat quality is delicious. Every time after the New Year, Japanese diners are eager to move, and puffer fish cuisine also welcomes the most prosperous period of the year.
Treatment of puffer fish
Because puffer fish is poisonous, before eating it, it must go through a professional chef with puffer fish chef qualification certificate and go through the treatment process.
What does this mean?
The treatment method of removing the lips and fin backs of puffer fish, peeling and then removing the internal organs. (The toxic parts of puffer fish are mainly the liver and ovary) These treatments are very delicate, because once they are damaged, the edible parts will also carry toxins, which will affect eating.
The skin of puffer fish is tough, which is not only unique in taste, but also the material of ancient folk art. Therefore, peeling is also a highly professional job. So on the whole, the salary of the chef who handles puffer fish should be quite high.
Treated puffer fish
Interestingly, however, the examination and certification of puffer fish chef qualification certificate are different in every county in Japan, so there is a situation that chefs in this area do not recognize their employment in another area. In Japan, as long as the puffer fish has been processed by a certified chef, there is no need for a qualification certificate for secondary processing, so general restaurants and supermarkets will introduce some processed puffer fish to sell.
Chef qualification certificate
How to eat puffer fish
Generally speaking, fish is freshest within 4-5 hours after death, and then the meat will be stiff, which will affect the taste. The puffer fish, on the other hand, was originally firm in meat, and it would not soften until 24-36 hours after death. At this time, it is the best to eat and the smoothest in taste.
Stab (sashimi)
The first thing that must be mentioned is sashimi, of course, high-class Japanese food.
Not only is the skin of puffer fish chewy, but the meat of puffer fish is also very elastic when eaten raw, so it is difficult to bite it off. Therefore, when making sashimi, try to cut it as thin as rice paper and be crystal clear. This kind of swordsmanship requires not only skillful swordsmanship, but also a special "puffer fish cutter".
The method of loading puffer fish is also very particular, which is mainly divided into four types: crane sheng, chrysanthemum sheng, peacock sheng and peony sheng. Each kind is pleasing to the eye and strives to enjoy it like a work of art.
Peacock sheng
Hesheng
Jusheng: (The one on the left is the skin of puffer fish)
Mudansheng
When eating, gently pick up a piece of crystal clear puffer fish meat with chopsticks, and then eat it with vinegar. In addition, the puffer fish skin treated with hot water is also eaten like this.
Pan (puffer fish pot)
The puffer fish pot is made by stewing puffer fish meat with kelp, vegetables and miso. Just like sashimi, it is eaten with vinegar. The boiled soup, with a little salt, is cooked with rice, which is very delicious.
Bai Zi cuisine
All right, speaking of special places. What is Bai Zi? It's actually the testis of a male puffer fish. Among them, 1 month to March is the most delicious moment, and it is also one of the most expensive dishes. Among them, barbecue, frying and cooking with tofu are all top-grade dishes.
Salt burning Bai Zi:
Bai Zi tofu:
Boiling coagulation
Stew the puffer fish skin with vegetables and mushrooms and put it in the refrigerator. The next day, the puffer fish skin will gelatinize and form instant fish jelly. It's smooth and delicious, and it's rich in flavor, which makes people appetite.
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Recommend a good restaurant to eat puffer fish in Japan.
Yamada's house in mortar pestle, Tokyo
This store should be the only Michelin three-star puffer fish specialty store in the world. There are only 23 seats in a * * *, which is very difficult to make an appointment. If you are sitting at the counter, you can see the chef's live production.
, Osaka
Lively Osaka people like to pick out a suit and clothes at Shinsaibashi, drink sake and enjoy the style of Xiamachi. If you want to say that the most famous puffer fish restaurant here must be. On this side of Tsutenkaku is Dotonbori's shop. You can see the big puffer fish signboard floating in the busy street from a distance. Even the menu can be made into a large board and placed directly on the side of the road, which is clear at a glance. The old shop that has been in business for more than 90 years has a variety of original puffer fish dishes, and the dolphin skin salad is a must. Scald the dolphin skin in boiling water, shrink it in ice water immediately, dip it in special sauce, it is crisp but not raw, smooth and slightly viscous, with unique colloid and sweetness, which makes people memorable.
Pumin puffer fish shop in Oita Prefecture, Kyushu
Kyushu Island is rich in land and sea products, Miyazaki's pheasant, Saga's buffalo, and Oita Prefecture has a puffer fish that must be eaten in addition to the famous city flounder. If you think puffer fish is an unattainable high-class cuisine, it may change if you try it in Oita. Although it is not as famous as you and Bodzin, the carefully managed shop is neat inside and outside, but it is more approachable. In the open kitchen, the young boss of three generations is skillful in gestures and considerate in service, ranging from thin cooking and Bai Zi to eating pots and cooking miscellaneous meals. Bai Zi, the freshest roasted tiger dolphin, immediately pours out the dense white fat with chopsticks, and its taste is not lost to the top dolphin shop in Tokyo.