There are many kinds of fried rice in Yangzhou, such as "gold wrapped in silver", "fried rice with assorted eggs" and "fried rice with green vegetables".
The so-called "gold-wrapped silver" is to wrap a layer of golden eggs on the outer layer of rice grains. Its method is: first put the rice in a pot and stir fry it, and then evenly wrap the broken egg liquid around the rice. The rice fried in this way has a golden outer layer and a white inner layer.
Assorted fried rice with eggs is the most typical variety of Yangzhou fried rice. It has many ingredients, such as eggs, sea cucumber, ham, green beans, shrimp, pork tenderloin, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, chopped green onion and so on. When making, first fry the eggs, then fry other ingredients, add clear soup and salt to adjust the taste, and put them away for later use. Then start to fry the rice until the grains are clear and there are no paste spots. Finally, pour half of the fried eggs and other ingredients into the pan, stir them evenly, and then put two-thirds on the pan. Then stir the remaining ingredients with the rice in the pan and cover the fried rice in the pan. The fried rice made in this way is beautiful and has a lot of ingredients on it. It's really delicious and visible!
[Edit this paragraph] Addendum
Frying method:
Yangzhou fried rice, in fact, varies from place to place, teaching you one of the most common practices. It is also the simplest ingredient and tastes good.
Ingredients: (main ingredients) green beans \ carrots \ ham \ sausage (this can also replace sausage and is delicious) \ eggs \ rice (preferably overnight rice).
(Accessories) Garlic seed \ Onion.
Salad oil \ salt \ chicken essence \
Production: (1) First, wash the carrot \ ham and cut it into cubes. The smaller the better. Of course, it can't be cut into foam. Then wash the auxiliary materials and cut them into foam. Beat the eggs and add a little onion foam.
(2) Put a little salad oil in the pot and heat it to 80%. Put the chopped main ingredients and chopped garlic foam into the pot and stir-fry. When you can smell the fragrance (this process only takes a few seconds), put the eggs into the pot and stir-fry. (At this time, you need to increase the heat, so that the eggs will be soft and not easy to fry.) When the eggs are fried to golden brown, put them on a plate.
(3) Add a little salad oil and heat it to 80%. Put the rice into the pot and turn it over. At this time, add a little salt and chicken essence to the rice. (It is not advisable to put too much chicken essence, otherwise it will be too fresh and not delicious.) When the rice is fried until the rice grains can jump in the pot, return all the ingredients and accessories that have just been fried to the pot and stir until the rice grains are soft and not sticky.
The rice made in this way is soft, fragrant and delicious.
Another way to eat:
Materials:
Sandwich ham (50g), metapenaeus ensis (1 04g), eggs (2), green beans (35g), white rice (2 bowls) and shallots (1root).
Seasoning:
Oil (5 tbsp), soy sauce (1 tbsp), chicken powder (1/2 tbsp), salt (2 tbsp).
Practice:
1 metapenaeus ensis removes the head and tail, peels the shell and washes it; Dice the ham, cut the onion into chopped green onion, and beat the eggs into egg liquid.
2 Boil the water in the pot, add 1 tbsp salt, pour in green beans and blanch for 30 seconds, scoop up the supercooled river and drain the water for later use.
Heat 2 tbsp oil, stir-fry diced ham with low heat, pour in fresh shrimps and stir-fry until it turns red, then serve on a plate.
4 Add 3 tablespoons of oil to heat, pour in the egg liquid and wait 10 second, add the white rice and stir-fry until it is scattered, until the rice grains are loose and golden yellow.
5 Pour ham, shrimps and green beans and stir fry 1 min until the ingredients in the pot are evenly mixed.
6 Add 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1/2 tbsp chicken powder and 1/3 tbsp salt, stir well, and serve.
Tips:
1, white rice should be cooked one night in advance, put in the refrigerator for one night, and then take out the pot to make fried rice with eggs. This kind of rice will be full and dry, and the taste will be very elastic.
2. Stir-fry the diced ham with a small fire, then add the shrimps and stir fry. Stir-fry the diced ham with a big fire, which is easy to burn and burn.
3, the secret of fried rice with eggs is to heat the dry pot first, pour the oil into the egg liquid, add the rice and quickly stir-fry, then the golden rice can be fried to a delicious taste.
4. It is advisable to season fried rice with light soy sauce, not with soy sauce or soy sauce with excessive color, otherwise the color of rice grains will be black and ugly.
5. Green beans are one of the protagonists of Yangzhou fried rice. Although the price is a little more expensive, its appearance and taste are very good, and it can also be replaced by soybeans, but the taste is much inferior.
local color
Yangzhou fried rice, also known as Yangzhou fried rice with eggs, was originally spread among the people. According to legend, it originated from the broken golden rice that Yang Su, the Duke of Yue in Sui Dynasty, loved to eat, that is, fried rice with eggs. When Emperor Yangdi visited Jiangdu (now Yangzhou), he also introduced fried rice with eggs into Yangzhou. After that, he gradually innovated on behalf of kitchen masters, and softened into Huaiyang cuisine with the characteristics of "strict selection of materials, meticulous production, exquisite processing, attention to color matching and original flavor", and finally developed into one of Huaiyang's famous staple foods. Yangzhou-style restaurants in Europe, America, Japan, Hong Kong and other places have also listed this food, which is quite popular.
There are many kinds of fried rice with eggs in Yangzhou, such as fried rice with clear eggs, fried rice with golden eggs, fried rice with crescent eggs, fried rice with shrimp eggs, fried rice with ham eggs, fried rice with three fresh eggs, fried rice with assorted eggs and so on.
Yangzhou fried rice with eggs, from the perspective of material selection, the main ingredient is to use fine white indica rice or replace it with new white japonica rice; Before cooking, it needs to be washed clean with water. After slightly soaking, it should be cooked in the pot until it is cooked thoroughly, without hardness, and the granules are loose and loose. Avoid burning when frying rice. When cooking, stir-fry the auxiliary materials into toppings with gravy, adding some soy sauce to the gravy is called (tooth color stir-frying), without soy sauce, it is called (white stir-frying), and famous porcelain is used for serving. There is a saying that "delicious food is beautiful".
[Edit this paragraph] Carry forward
2500 years ago, Fu Cha, the king of Wu, dug a ditch and entered the Huai River at the last mouth (now the north of Chuzhou District in Huai 'an), which became the first artificial hub on the ancient canal. Fu Cha probably didn't think that this earliest canal also made Huai 'an when it created the prosperous Yangzhou. In Sui Dynasty, Huai 'an also became one of the four major cities along the canal.
"Qingkou" is the entrance of Surabaya into Huai 'an. In the Yuan Dynasty, the Grand Canal was bent and straightened, and the hub position of Qingkou was even more important. It was the throat of water transportation and related to the overall situation, which eventually formed the historical position of Huai 'an as "south boat and north horse". Kangxi made six southern tours, all of which visited Qingkou River in person, and Qianlong made six southern tours and came to Qingkou four times. The unique phenomenon of "South Ship and North Horse" has also made Yangzhou fried rice reach its peak in this "landing on the boat".
I shook hands with Yangzhou for more than two thousand years.
Huaian has "shook hands" with Yangzhou for more than two thousand years! After the opening of the North-South Canal, these are two important cities that ships must pass through.
Huai 'an "prospers with water". On the bank of the ancient canal, the monument with the words "South Ship and North Horse, Landing by Boat" is particularly eye-catching. Not far from the landing of the boat, there are two ancient gates built in the Ming Dynasty-Qingjiang main gate and Qingjiang crossing gate, which are the only well-preserved ancient gates in the Ming Dynasty on the canal. Wu Mingqian, a senior cook in Huai 'an, said that Huai 'an is a land of "southern ships and northern horses", because it is more difficult to sail through Huai 'an to Xuzhou, so people usually abandon the ship and board the bus; Northerners have to change boats to the south when they arrive in Huai 'an. Such a traffic "transfer" place naturally makes the cuisine show freedom and integration here, and Yangzhou fried rice has become swaying and brilliant.
Wu Mingqian believes that it is precisely because of this feature that Huai 'an cuisine is universal, so that people from all directions can eat and have a full stomach. The characteristics of transportation "transfer" connecting the south with the north make the connection between Huai 'an and Yangzhou food culture "broken". Comparing the dishes in Huaiyang and Yangzhou carefully, it is not difficult to find that this kind of * * * is really synchronous: there are bean curd soup as thin as cicada's wings and as thin as hair; There are also "big articles" that roast the whole pig's head. The recipes in the two places are basically the same, but they have their own characteristics. Say Yangzhou fried rice, Huai' an Yangzhou fried rice, the taste is relatively heavy, and the ingredients are not as good as Yangzhou's; The cooking of Huai 'an long fish is known as the best in the country, while the Yangzhou white case, especially the steamed stuffed bun, is ever-changing, with shepherd's purse in spring, dried vegetables in summer, wild duck meat in autumn and winter bamboo shoots, which are not only moderately salty and sweet, but also light and tasty, reflecting the harmony between man and nature.
Fan Chengtai, former deputy chief engineer of Huai 'an Water Conservancy Bureau, commented on the close relationship between Huai 'an and Yang: During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Governor's Department of Water Transport and the Governor's Office of River were both located in Huai 'an, while Yangzhou had two salt transport yamen, both of which had heavyweight state institutions and played an important role in the national economy.
After "shaking hands" for more than two thousand years, the economic and cultural exchanges between Huai and Yang are frequent. For example, salt merchants in Qing Dynasty lived in Huai 'an "under the river" area. Its architectural style and lifestyle are similar to those of salt merchants under the river in Yangzhou, so Huai 'an River is called "Little Yangzhou". Huang Junzai's "Golden Pot Waves and Ink" describes Huai 'an salt merchants in this way: "When you are out, your servants are like smoke, and your horses are flying, and they admire each other. Their followers are quite close to the literati, so that they are actually elegant people under the guise of reputation, and they are the guests for a while, and the strings are prosperous. The talker's eye is' Little Yangzhou'." Later, as the salt industry center moved to Yangzhou, many Huai 'an salt merchants moved to Yangzhou. In all kinds of communication, Yangzhou cuisine has a close communication with Huai 'an cuisine, which is probably one of the reasons why the word "Huaiyanglai" appeared later.
300 million taels of silver make "Huai 'an cuisine"
Huai 'an has become a hub city because of the Canal, and is also known as the "Four Metropolis" of the Canal with Yangzhou, Suzhou and Hangzhou. In the Qing Dynasty, it was the center of salt industry, water transportation, shipbuilding and river management, with more than 10,000 water tankers 1 50,000 people.
Accompanied by Wang Weihua, Deputy Editor-in-Chief of Huaihai Evening News, we visited the ruins of the Governor's Courtyard of Caoyun and the basically restored River Governor's Garden "Qing Yan Park". From the early Ming Dynasty to the mid-Qing Dynasty, these two places were ministerial-level organs in charge of the state's grain-granting, inspection, storage and transportation, and water control and transportation. The existence of two places is closely related to the prosperity of "Huai 'an Cuisine": represented by the Governor's Office of Yanyuan River Road in Qing Dynasty, it is known as the "silver-cast restaurant flowing seats". Collect silver from the state treasury every year, ranging from 600 to 12 million, and spend one-third on river regulation, corruption and bribery, eating and drinking. According to historical records, during the 100 years from the middle of Qianlong to the end of Daoguang, this department appropriated nearly 320 million silver from the special fund for river management.
The official's son has a feast in China, and the people also have salt merchants who spend money like water. "The silk tube will eventually get drunk under the flowers, and the diners will come to three thousand households", which is the trend of fashion, and some "residents will be able to eat more money every day". Big restaurants and restaurants do everything possible to attract famous chefs, search for rare products in the world, and creatively introduce rare flavors.
It is conceivable that Yangzhou fried rice has entered the upper class and various folk classes in Huai 'an under the same cultural background of Yangzhou and Huai 'an in many aspects. Thus, in such an atmosphere, a large number of "Huai 'an cuisine" cooks emerged in Huai 'an. The large number of cooks, the high overall level and the fierce technical competition attracted the attention of the world at that time, which formed three winds of asking for cooks, taking cooks and sending them away. People recommended famous chefs to their superiors, colleagues, relatives and friends as the best way to contact their feelings. In the late Qing Dynasty and the early years of the Republic of China, it became common for foreign envoys to take cooks and accept gifts.
Yangzhou fried rice is interpreted in various ways.
Wang Weihua, deputy editor-in-chief of Huaihai Evening News, specially took us to Tianfeigong Hotel in Chuzhou District, Huai 'an, and let us experience Yangzhou fried rice in Huai 'an on the spot. "Huai 'an cuisine pursues cooking Huai 'an cuisine with Huai 'an production and easy access to materials". Wang Weihua said that in the 1950s and 1960s, the governor of the river channel was abolished, and then the water transportation was changed to sea transportation. Huai 'an's political and economic status plummeted, and the whole catering industry almost collapsed. With the advocacy of knowledgeable officials and local sages, Huai 'an's kitchen industry swept away extravagance and returned to localization, emulating Yangzhou cuisine's pursuit of light health and advocating delicious flavor. Huai 'an cuisine finally blended with Yangzhou cuisine in essence. Under the banner of modern Huaiyang cuisine, we can see the dance of food culture in two cities.
The dance of food culture is unique in Yangzhou fried rice. Wu Mingqian made his own interpretation of Yangzhou fried rice: among the ancient "Eight Treasures of the Zhou Dynasty", there are two kinds of bibimbap with meat sauce. The glutinous rice shaoshao in Huaiyang cuisine evolved from it, but it was just that later generations packaged glutinous rice and meat sauce with a piece of dough. It can be said that the glutinous rice shaoshao is a kind of "fossil food". Wouldn't this creative thinking of bibimbap with meat sauce have an impact on the formation of Yangzhou fried rice? Wu Mingqian went on to say that in Huai 'an, there are three ways to mix fried rice, one is fried rice with a poached egg on the head; The other is the popular "fried rice with egg white" in the upper class, which specifically removes the egg yolk and only uses egg white to fry rice. This is called "fried silver with silver", which seems to be intentionally different from the traditional "gold wrapped with silver". The third kind is similar to the standard Yangzhou fried rice, with shredded pork, shredded winter bamboo shoots, dried Bess and other ingredients.
Yangzhou fried rice has evolved in various ways in Huai 'an, which is not only due to the geographical reasons of the canal, but also to the cultural isomorphism.