Beijing is neither near the river nor the sea, and most of the fish it eats are shipped from other villages. There are all kinds of fish in Wuza, Beijing, that is, steamed shad, which can also appear in the market in time. As for the specialty fish in Beijing, there are only a few inferior fish, such as snakehead, thick fish, straw bag fish, catfish, tuanyu and so on. The best fish is "golden-winged carp", which is not heavy in weight and has the freshest taste, and can be the treasure of fish. There is also a kind of "Kunming Golden Carp", which is produced from Kunming Lake in Wanshou Mountain, but it is relatively rare. Beijing is neither a land of fish nor good at cooking fish. It's really hard to find a restaurant specializing in fish. However, many restaurants also have their own specialties, which combine the strengths of many restaurants and can also become a "grand view of eating fish". Now let's talk about fish separately, focusing on fish and restaurants. Let's talk about eating fish first. It doesn't matter even if the "Beijing accident" overflows. First, because most fish can be bought in Beijing, and second, it is biased towards practice for readers to try.
Fish plate
Four-cooked fish Four-cooked fish is a specialty of Zhimeizhai in Beijing Old Shandong Pavilion. The most distinctive one is "Braised Fish Head". Four kinds of fish are made from live carp. After a friend invited the diners to entertain with live carp, he fell to his death. Then they made "braised fish head", "rotten fish fillet" and "sauce tail", each with its own unique flavor. They can be served with wine and rice, and finally they cooked "stewed fish gizzards" on the fourth day. I like braised fish head best and think it is a good dish with wine. What Zhimeizhai makes is fried fish head, which is sweet, sour, crisp and delicious, full of color and flavor, ranking first in Beijing.
Pan Yu lived in the north of Hutong, which became a gathering place for celebrities in the last hundred years of the late Qing Dynasty. Many "celebrity dishes" have been created, among which "Jiang Tofu" and "Pan Yu" are very famous. Pan fish is created by Pan's shadow. The whole carp was folded into two parts. After steaming, clear soup is fried, like broth, without other ingredients. The skin of the fish is smooth and its mouth seems to be closed, but the fish is rotten and the soup is delicious.
Mullet is also a specialty of Guangheju. After Guangheju closed, Chunhua Building was the best. The mullet is modeled after the West Lake, similar to braised pork. In addition, there are five kinds of shredded fresh mushrooms, shredded bamboo shoots, shredded ham, shredded red pepper and shredded Tricholoma, so it is called "Wuliu". According to the old man in Guangheju, this dish was sent by a man named Tao. Because Tao Yuanming wrote Biography of Mr. Wuliu, he changed "Taoyu" to "Wuliu Fish".
Anfu Building in Wangfujing Street, Hu Shizhi, formerly known as Chenghua Garden. In its heyday, many literati often came here to sing poems and make wine. Hu Shizhi, a doctor of philosophy, once came here to eat and drink. He invented "Hu Shizhi Fish" by dicing carp, adding about three fresh dices, and then diluting the fish into soup. Dr Hu doesn't drink, so Hu Shizhi fish can only be a delicious dish.
Squirrel yellow croaker is the best fish between juice and no juice. Boning large yellow croaker, separating the knife from the meat, turning it into a mouse shape when frying, and wrapping it with thin juice, which is sweet and light. It is a specialty of Huaiyang cuisine in Jiangsu restaurants, especially Yuhuatai.
Steamed mandarin fish is the fattest and tender in March, and it is very popular with foodies because it has no thorns. Nothing can keep its taste better than steaming mandarin fish. Steamed mandarin fish are all seasoned with mushrooms and fat, but steamed mandarin fish in Xilaishun are seasoned with crabs, which have a fresh fragrance, but they must be live crabs, otherwise they will taste bad.
Compared with other scaly fish, fried eel shredded fried eel shredded coriander with coriander powder has a unique flavor. "Soft pink belly" is made by shredding the white belly of giant eel and frying it with vermicelli. Northern restaurants never cook eel dishes. Restaurants in Jiangsu, Sichuan and Guizhou are good at cooking eel dishes. Taste the topic carefully. Suhai Pavilion in Jiangsu Pavilion is different from Huaiyang Pavilion, and the eel dishes in Wufangzhai and Yuhuatai are better than other restaurants.
Steamed stewed turtle Yuan Yu is a great supplement, especially compared with eels. Braised fish is best, followed by steamed fish. In the past, Yuanhe Restaurant in Shandong Pavilion was the first restaurant in Beijing to be a Yuan Yu. The stew is very effective. It can make Yuan Yu skirts taste like shark's fin. In recent years, southern restaurants have sprung up everywhere, and their cooking skills are not bad.
It seems easy to cook fish at home, but it is difficult to cook fish at home. If it is not cooked and tastes bad, it will feel bad. Braised bighead carp in Beijing, yellow croaker and flounder are often cooked in restaurants, all of which have different tastes, especially the cooked fish in Tongfuju is second to none in Beijing. Tongfuju is the Tianjin Pavilion, and cooking fish has its own characteristics. Although boiled fish is a coarse dish, diners only know the smell of soup, but they don't think it is a staple food.
Dry-roasted crucian carp is the freshest, especially soup. The crucian carp in Liuhe Longchi is famous all over the world, and dry burning is boring. Dry-roasted crucian carp is a kind of fried crucian carp, which has no moisture and is easy to eat. Nan restaurant is the best at cooking this dish, and Chunhua Building is especially good at it.
Caught fried fish is a common dish in Shandong Pavilion, but the skin of caught fried fish in Fushoutang of Jinyu Hutong is thin and delicious, and the color is gratifying and completely tasteless.
It's not difficult to cook a dish with a tile in the middle of the sauce, but I'm afraid it's salty and too light. Salty taste can mask the salty taste of fish, but soy sauce is too weak to taste. Runminglou in Dong 'an Market can make medium sauce and sauce tile, and it can be added or subtracted.
Whitebait, noodle fish, Weihe whitebait and Korean noodle fish can all be eaten in Beijing. These two kinds of fish are similar in appearance, but they eat differently. Silver fish soup is the best, which can be used to sober up and accompany meals. Noodles and fish fried in egg balls are the best snacks, and they are the curator of Qingzhen Education Center such as Liang Yixuan. Liangyixuan also has fake fish with gluten instead of fish, which is also quite crisp and delicious.
fish
Shad is very fresh in the south. Most of the products sold in Shanghai come from Ningbo, but they are not as good as those produced in Zhenjiang. No matter where the fruit is produced, Beijing can't eat good shad, even if it takes a long time. Every April and May, the shad in the south of the Yangtze River is listed, which is out of date and can no longer be obtained, so its value is also expensive. The shad can be steamed or braised in brown sauce, but the fish scales can't go, because the delicacy and fat of the shad are in the fish scales, so you can go to the fish scales next time. Steamed fish should not be cooked for too long. If cooked for too long, it will not only be delicious, but will lose its flavor, and the beauty of shad will not be appreciated. If you do braise in soy sauce, wrap the fish in clean oil before cooking, so as to preserve the unique flavor of shad.
Qin carp, produced in Suzhou, has no scales, round bones, flower-shaped bones, rough skin and fine white meat. The butter in the skin is a little thick, ranging from 70 kg to 80 kg. It was not easy to buy in Beijing before. After the traffic from Beijing to Shanghai is opened, Qin carp in the south of the Yangtze River can be transported to Beijing in two days, but the price is too expensive. Qin crucian carp is best braised in brown sauce, and pork is added when it is cooked, as much as fish. First, cut the fish into big cubes, such as the size of Sixi meat, boil it in white water, remove the water, then stew it with soy sauce, cooking wine and seasoning, and add a little sugar to the rotten pork, which is delicious and very mellow.
Taihu herring is also known as "snail green". So fish eat snails in Taihu Lake, so the taste is very clear, but when they arrive in Beijing, they live very little, which is a pity. This fish head and tail are the freshest, with braised fish, smoked fish, fish balls, fried fish slices, fish rolls, fish porridge and so on. The method of cooking soup is to chop the head and tail into the size of a tile fish, add a little salt to the cooking wine, then boil three or four pieces of mushrooms with water, wait for the water in the pot to boil, put the fish pieces, mushrooms and cooking wine together in the pot, then open the pot to a bowl, and add some shredded green garlic and flavor elements, which has an incomparable fragrance to other fish. The method of smoking fish is to cut the fish into finger-wide chunks, soak them in soy sauce and cooking wine, fry them, mix them with pepper noodles and sugar, rub them on both sides of the fish, and taste the smoked fish sold in Daoxiang Village. The intestines of herring are also delicious, but it takes a lot of effort to cook. You must cut the fish intestines with scissors, pat them with salt, wash them with clear water, cut them into large pieces, blanch them with boiling water, control the water purification, put them in boiling oil, season them with soy sauce, dice the tofu, cook them together, add white sugar and sprinkle with shredded green garlic, which is crispy and delicious.
Crucian carp are found in the north and south, and the scales are different in black and white. There are fewer big crucian carp in the north. The top grade of crucian carp pays attention to "Liuhe Longchi Crucian Carp", commonly known as "Dragon Crucian Carp", which can be as big as two or three pounds, and its taste is unique in the world. Or steamed, or boiled, or braised, or stewed crucian carp, tile fish, crispy fish, shredded radish boiled crucian carp soup, Yangzhou crucian carp noodles, etc. There are many ways but cooking is the best. Steaming method: first put onion, ginger and cooking wine into the fish belly, add some salt noodles, add ham, winter bamboo shoots and mushrooms, slice and steam. The method of shredded radish and crucian carp soup is to soak the fish in cooking wine first, then boil the shredded white radish with water, and then put the fish and wine together, depending on the maturity. The processing method of crucian carp is to clean the belly of the fish, then chop the pork into minced meat, add some winter bamboo shoots and soy sauce cooking wine as seasonings, put them all into the belly of the fish, fry them lightly in oil, fry them on both sides, and then cook them with soy sauce cooking wine according to the braise method, without too much juice. The practice of Yangzhou crucian carp noodles is to clean the small crucian carp, put a little fat oil in the pot to boil, then fry the crucian carp in the pot, drain the water (soy sauce is not allowed), burn it to milky white, smash the fish with chopsticks, and take out the fish bones and skin. The taste must be appropriate. Then, cook the sliced noodles in another pot, take them out and put them in fish soup, cook them again for a minute or two, sprinkle shredded onion and garlic on the bowl and chew them. The method of tile cake crucian carp is to wash the fish for half a catty, steam the onion, ginger, cooking wine and salt in a bowl, then beat one or two eggs and pour them into a fish tank for steaming. Its delicacy is not comparable to that of ordinary egg soup.
Sea crucian carp is called "big head fish" in Beijing, with thick meat and few thorns. Although the meat is thick and old, it is very convenient to stew. This kind of fish goes out to sea in April every year and is regarded as a holiday fish with the same name as yellow croaker in Beijing. At this time, the merchants named it "reward" for their food. Therefore, it is often ten pounds and eight pounds in a pot, at least three or five pounds, which is convenient for stewing, and Beijing women are also good at it. But this kind of fish has been rarely produced in recent years, and the price is also very expensive. It became extinct after April and a half. On the Duanyang Festival, the "rattan fish" which is slightly narrower and longer like the red of bighead carp is prickly. The poor in Beijing have a way to eat smelly bighead carp. They bought the stale and smelly bighead carp at a low price, washed the fish, covered the steamer with Chinese cabbage leaves and steamed the washed fish on it. Be sure to block your nostrils when boiling. Once the smell is released, it will have no taste at all if you stew or pour the juice. As for novelty, I can't ask. This is also the way for the poor to satisfy their hunger.
White fish white fish is the top grade of fresh fish in the Great Wall, not inferior to the famous fish in the south of the Yangtze River. Produced in Songhua River, it is extremely fat, the largest can be thirty or twenty kilograms, and there is oil on its back. The Yangtze River is not fat. The real estate in the north is not big, two or three pounds at most. Steamed, braised, smoked or pickled. Smoked white fish is soaked in soy sauce and cooking wine, fried and smoked. If you can get camphor wood or pine cones to smoke, it will have a refreshing taste. If it is winter, you can buy more pickled fish, smear them on both sides of the fish with fish residue, seal them in a jar and put them in a cool place. When eating, it is good to fry or braise in soy sauce, and eat both hot and cold.
Yellow croaker, short for "yellow croaker" and scientific name "stone fish", is a common marine fish, especially in Bohai Sea. Every March and April, before the thunder broke, a large number of yellow croaker went on the market, sometimes with extremely low value. Although he is a pawn and his family is poor, he should weigh two Jin to taste it, or smoke or fry it, which can be seen everywhere. As soon as the thunder was heard, the fish sank to the bottom of the sea, and it was not easy to catch the net, so the price of fish rose. There are two kinds of yellow croaker: large yellow croaker and small yellow croaker. Large yellow croaker is the most commonly used in restaurants. Marine fish die without water, unlike fish in rivers and lakes that can be eaten alive, so marine fish should be fresh. There are many ways to make yellow croaker. Sweet and sour fish, sharp-drilled fish, dry fried fish, vinegar-dipped fish, pine nut fish (that is, squirrel yellow croaker), stewed fish soup, fried fake crab meat, caught fried fish and braised fish can all be considered delicious. The home-cooked yellow croaker is mainly stewed, and the yellow croaker such as garlic cloves is more crisp and tender than freshwater fish. It is also a kind of enjoyment to cook yellow croaker with Daqing garlic in the bright season when flowers are full of green.
Mandarin fish is commonly known as "flower crucian carp", which is called "mandarin fish" by fishmongers and chefs. Mandarin fish can be found all year round, especially in March. Zhang's poem "Peach Blossom Flowing Water Fathers Mandarin Fish" and his poem "Peach Blossom Half a Foot Fish" are enough to show the praise of ancient and modern literati to Mandarin Fish. Among spinless fish, Siniperca chuatsi is the most tender. The best way is to steam. On weekdays, all the fish cooked in restaurants are generally mandarin fish, vinegar, braised pork, sauce and five willows. Slippery, tiled, rotten, scallion fish, Korean fish sticks, fried fish and other zero-cooked fish, like yellow croaker, are the most commonly used fish in Beijing.
There are two kinds of silver carp, one is silver carp and the other is silver carp. Silver carp head is the best, and it can be braised and stewed. There are fewer big silver carp in the north, and the big silver carp in the south can reach ten or twenty kilograms, and some fish heads can weigh more than ten kilograms. The stew method of silver carp head is to cut the fish head in half, fry it in oil, control the oil, add soy sauce, cooking wine and shredded pork, and stew it in soup. You can add a dried pepper to the delicious and spicy food. After stewing, when eating, cut the fresh vermicelli into large pieces and put it in the pot. Sprinkle some shredded green garlic to enhance the flavor.
Monopterus albus is the specialty of Beijing South Hotel. The dishes in small restaurants are mostly small eels. Not only can't you make soft belly and add powder, but you can't even stop the meat. Only big eels used in big hotels can be eaten by people. There are several ways to fry eels. Wuxi fried eel silk is the best. The practice is: fry the shredded eel, then cook it with soy sauce and sugar, and cut the shredded ginger on the surface, which is crisp and fragrant. Braised Monopterus albus is prepared by chopping Monopterus albus into inches, cutting pork into horse teeth pieces, adding garlic cloves and onion ginger as seasoning, frying Monopterus albus in oil, frying pork seasoning in a pot, adding soy sauce and cooking wine, and boiling for five minutes before releasing water. Don't have too much soup, put some sugar when cooking.
According to legend, soft-shelled turtle is a tonic, and there are two ways to do it: First, kill soft-shelled turtle, add cold water to the pot and boil it until it is 60% to 70% open, peel off the thin black skin on the skirt of soft-shelled turtle, then uncover the hard shell, remove the five internal organs, clean the inner cavity, chop four pieces at a time, then steam it with Tricholoma on the dam, or stew it with four pieces of pork.
Some people say that live soft-shelled turtle is put in a cage, there is a small hole next to it, and a bowl of soy sauce cooking wine is put outside the hole. Make a fire below, and the turtle sticks out of the hole in hot weather to drink soy sauce cooking wine to reduce the fever. Fish, oil and wine are used up, and the taste is naturally delicious. In fact, this is a simple way to eat on a fishing boat. Imagine, if the five internal organs are not removed and the abdomen is filthy, where can I eat?
Hairtail is also a kind of marine fish, which is also very common in Beijing. The fish is shaped like a wide band, thin and scaleless, with a layer of silver frost on its body. Wipe off the silver frost on the fish with Malangen pot brush, cut it into small pieces of more than two inches, fry it, burn it with soy sauce and sweet and sour soup, and stew it with sweet and sour soup.
Pomfret is round and wide like puffer fish. Beijing is called "Bottle Fish", which is also a sea fish. Less thorns, fine meat and delicious skin like mandarin fish. Fresh ones can be steamed, topped with shredded onion, ginger and pork, without soy sauce. If you are a little old, you can braise in soy sauce.
Grass herring, also known as "West Lake Fish", comes from the West Lake and is ripe. The beauty of West Lake fish lies in its lightness. After killing the live fish, cut it in half, stop the knife a little, add the onion and ginger and steam for five to ten minutes, depending on the cooked fish. If you work too long, the flavor of the fish will be lost. Steamed into a thin sauce made of chicken soup, with vinegar and no sugar, so it is called "vinegar fish". It should be noted that fish is delicious only when it is cooked. If it's right, it's thousands of miles away.
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