After moving and expanding the store, Laojin is still the little frontispiece in the small alley. Customers are mostly old neighbors, and every mouth is a Beijing film. Old and young men huddled around the small table. Every time the pot was brought in and out, the guys shouted for everyone to give way sideways again and squeeze a way out.
Regardless of the location, they don't sell frozen rolls, and they don't care about beef and mutton. The Laojin family only cuts one kind by hand. Mutton is pulled back from Langfang Dachang every day without flaunting the origin of the variety, but the victory lies in its biting eye and clean handling. There are eight or two large plates, and the meat slices are thick, fat and well-proportioned. After a long time of rinsing, they are still surprisingly tender, and every bite is stirring.
Xiaoliao has its own characteristics, which was made by the first generation of Laojin and the founding old shopkeeper who was apprenticed in Nanlaishun as a child according to the prescription of Master and other disciples. A lot of old vinegar is used as the base, which is sour and thin, but it is also greasy and fishy.
Address: 20 meters north of Yaoer Hutongkou, No.46 Xuewai Road, Xicheng District
||| Old Beijing Fengzeju
/kloc-one of the first restaurants opened in Beijing in the 1980 s, it has been welcoming guests for more than 30 years now, and it has been taken over by the second generation over 50 years old, maintaining the form of a small family workshop with its own warmth.
Out of the demand for quality, the store is hands-on about almost all processes. Fresh mutton is picked back from niujie every day, and the machine slices should be rolled by themselves; Sugar and garlic are pickled at home, and the balance between sweet and sour is refreshing and delicious; The leek flower sauce in the small ingredients is to buy enough leek flowers when it goes on the market in August and beat the sauce by itself; All kinds of staple foods are also baked in the kitchen.
The overall quality of mutton is excellent, the parts of hand-cut and machine-cut are clearly divided, and the texture of goat melon strips is clear, fat and thin, and chewy. Secret mutton is a new product developed in recent years. It can be marinated with pepper and cumin all night, and it tastes good without dipping in sesame sauce.
It is recommended to focus on sesame sugar cakes and sesame cakes, which are freshly made and steaming. Sugar cakes are crispy up and down, soft in the middle and sweet and mellow. Sesame cakes are better than layered and full of flavor.
By the way, this store is also the back dining hall of the People's Art Theatre, and drama fans can look forward to meeting idols.
Address: No.53, Baofang Hutong, Dongcheng District (near Beijing Renyi)
||| Yu Defu
A small shop on Guijie Street has only seven tables. Powerful, delicious and skillful. Mutton is a castrated sheep in Inner Mongolia, all of which were killed the night before, and it takes one night to release blood (discharge acid).
Cucumber strips are mainly thin, limited supply, one table. This is the most tender piece of meat on the sheep, shaped like a cucumber. A sheep has two hind legs, and there are only two cucumbers in the outside of the two hind legs, and one is less than two, so it is called cucumber strips when it is cut together with a nearby piece of meat.
The butcher's knife work is excellent, each piece is extremely thin, and it is bright red when unfolded. You know, the granddaddy of the swordsmen passed down by this shop was Yu Delong, one of the "Two Knives in Beijing".
The meat is not afraid to pick. The meat cutter also taught you a verification method of Inner Mongolia mutton: eat the mutton with chopped green onion and salt. You can eat the original flavor of the sheep, and the meat is not fat, and it will appear immediately. This mutton is so fresh and frank that this goose abandoned the sesame sauce at that time and only tasted the real flavor.
Master recommended Xiaosancha, which is moderately fat and thin. The red lean meat is as thin as a rose, and the white fat is as glittering and translucent as jade. After entering the clear soup, Shi Shiran grows longer, and after being heated and absorbs water evenly, she turns into a flesh-colored congealed fat, tempting the stunner, and I can't wait to sip it quickly. It is also rewarded with a dense taste, which makes people love it more and more.
People often judge the quality of mutton by whether there is foam in the boiled broth. However, Yu Defu's meat cutter said that this may not be accurate. If the water in the pot doesn't boil, it will also foam.
Address: No.264 Dongzhimennei Street (North Xinqiao Cross East)
||| Jubaoyuan
Niujie time-honored brand, the enduring old Beijing copper pot hotpot. At 10: 30 in the morning, I began to queue up to have a chance to eat their fresh sheep and go to the brain. If you stay in bed, good meat will be sold out.
Mutton comes from Inner Mongolia's own pasture, and its meat is fragrant. Fresh sheep tendon is thin but not firewood, and tender with tendons. The best fresh-cut mutton, with delicate and considerate fiber and full of fresh juice.
Although the old Beijing copper pot hotpot meat generally refers to mutton, and only hotpot mutton. However, niujie, where the Hui people live in compact communities, should not miss its cattle. The most popular beef is A-eye beef, which is all frozen and machine-cut. Beef balls are also delicious.
The limited sale of sesame cakes is well-deserved, fried crispy outside and tender inside, with obvious cumin flavor, and some rich and indescribable spices. The receptionist said it was sheep oil that made it taste like this.
Address: No.5-2, Building No.0/KLOC-0, niujie Xili Business, Xicheng District (next to Muslim Supermarket)
2 | It's worth visiting.
||| Hongyuan South Gate Hotpot
Many old Beijing-approved butcher shops are doing brisk business. When they arrive at 5: 30 in the evening, they have to wait in line for more than an hour. Fortunately, there are many direct branches, and the ingredients are uniformly distributed by the head office, with stable quality.
Each branch has its own meat cutter, and the photos of the internal competition of Hongyuan Group are hung on the wall. Cutting meat slices is one of the important projects, which shows the importance attached to knife workers.
Abandoning the traditional charcoal fire, the south gate set up a gas stove under the copper pot. The bottom of the clear water pot is also richer than other homes, and the onion, ginger, mushrooms, red dates and medlar are very lively. Order three dishes at the bottom of the pot, plus cabbage vermicelli and frozen tofu, for fear that diners will miss these old partners who rinse meat.
Speaking of his own excellent reasons, the store manager has a loud voice: "Mutton is good, small materials are fragrant"-hand-cut mutton is very regular, and it is not broken when rinsed, the fat is tender but not oily, and the lean fiber is full.
Sheep melon strips are the limit of riverside and Houhai shops. Machine-cut has multiple parts to choose from, so you should rinse it quickly before thawing. It is not dry or firewood, and the meat is rich, which can be regarded as the top grade in frozen meat.
Address: Building No.3-1-2, Dongli, Yongnei East Street, Dongcheng District
||| Ritan hotpot
Classical Chinese decoration, cloisonne pot, foreigners will probably like it. The small pot doesn't use charcoal fire, but only two small alcohol stoves. The heating is too slow, and the mutton is a little warm and not easy to cook.
The sheep's upper brain and tendon in the fresh mutton platter are worth eating. The meat color is bright red and the entrance is delicate. Sheep melon strips are expensive, but they are quite fresh and tender. The meat quality of fresh mutton with outer ridges and no parts is much inferior.
Address: No.9 Ritan East Road, Chaoyang District (east of ritan park, opposite the Indian Embassy)
||| Tripe Shenglong Jin
The time-honored brand that has been passed down to this day during the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, and the photos of four generations of descendants are hung high in the store. The special seasoning for deep-fried tripe has won the national invention patent, which is also the foundation for the store to settle down.
The bottom material of rinse meat is thick, while the one that explodes the belly pays attention to refreshing, and it can cover up the smell of viscera, hide the fishy smell and refresh it, which is convenient for diners to taste different tastes of various stomachs.
The sauce for deep-fried tripe was prepared by the fourth generation, including pepper oil and other materials, which is very mysterious. Belly kernel is a sign, and it is the most tender of all fried bellies. Half a catty per plate, it takes eight sheep to get this one.
As far as hotpot is concerned, cucumber strips and sheep's brain taste suitable, but they are not amazing.
Address: South of Building 6, Liupukang 1 District, Dewai Ande Road, Xicheng District
||| Man Hengji
This old Beijing hotpot restaurant on Ping 'an Street is very good at doing business, combining Beijing characteristics. There are all kinds of hotpot dishes, mutton scorpions and Beijing-style stir-fried dishes, which are "doing nothing", but it does not affect its hotpot quality.
The sheep's brains sell well, and there are particularly thin sheep tendons, which are not lost in the treasure source and bite more tender. In contrast, the meat of Jubaoyuan is thicker and slightly harder.
Left: Fresh-cut Su Nite lamb; Upper right: sheep tendon; Bottom right: hand-cut the hind legs of the best Su Nite lamb with a broadsword.
Must be recommended: hand-cut the hind legs (panting) of the best Su Nite lamb with a broadsword, which is suitable for fat and thin, tender and juicy, and has no smell of smell. It is comfortable to chew and massage the greedy nerves.
Many repeat customers come for skewers, and the grilled skewers need to be dried or pasted, which can meet the demand.
Thin-cut beef looks good, but its taste is average. Hand-cut beef is off standard, hard and chewy. The best snowflake beef eye meat is superior to the former in tenderness and freshness because of its position advantage.
The sesame sauce is salty, but the Chili oil that is fried now is extra points: it is fried only when the guests appear, and it is still hot when it is just put out of the pot and put in a plate. Chili oil is better in sesame sauce.
Address: No.0/4, Ping 'anli West Street, Xicheng District
||| Dingmao hotpot
A young shop, two Beijing men born in 1987 and a Beijing girl opened an old Beijing copper pot butcher shop on Gulou Street in Beijing. The bottom of the orthodox old Beijing copper pot soup is water, ginger and scallion, and the bottom of the Yuanyang pot is off the right path; There are also medlar, dried seaweed, jujube and mushrooms, which are just for freshness.
In this antique Beijing store, the old Beijing soup base refers to sheep tail oil and beer. Although adding sheep's tail oil can also be found in Beijing copper pot hotpot, adding beer is an innovation.
It's another feature of this shop to code the eight pieces of Beijing on the carved ornaments. Beijing Eight Pieces refers to the eight major parts of mutton in Beijing copper pot hotpot: sheep upper brain, big (small) fork, sheep tenderloin, sheep grinding fork, one-headed sink, cucumber strips, sheep tendon and sheep tendon. It can satisfy the eight wishes of diners at one time, delicious and fun.
The taste and taste of mutton tendon are the most sharp and chewy, which integrates tendon, fascia, fat and meat, and goes straight to the realm of "sticking the top fragrance to the flesh and blood".
Address:No. 12 1 Old Gulou Street, Xicheng District
||| Zhongyixuan
A shop in an alley in the second ring road, the process of finding a shop is like exploring the road in a maze. Small quadrangles, Jingyun drums, stores dislike the poor water quality in Beijing, but also use Nongfu Spring to make the bottom of the clear soup pot, which can be regarded as intention.
Sheep are Ningxia Tan sheep, not Inner Mongolia sheep which is traditionally used in old Beijing copper pot to rinse meat, and the smell is lighter. However, it will be expensive to transport it all the way. Other families can eat one table of money, and this one is only enough to order two plates of mutton.
Address: No.34 Courtyard of Qingping Hutong, Dongcheng District
||| Love the grassland
There is only one hand-cut fresh mutton, which is slightly thicker, and some of it affects the taste. Supreme 3D Fat Sheep refers to mutton that has been sour for three days and nights. Compared with the hot mutton that is completely frozen from farm to table in the south, it is safer, but the price is quite supreme.
Their family's kebabs are well-known. The kebabs on sheep's hind legs and sheep's brains are grilled to amber color, rich and juicy, and no cumin is added, only salt is used to taste; With the arctic ocean, it is pleasant and pleasant.
Address: East Annex Building of Beikong Command, A 1 Guangming Road, Dongcheng District (near Longtan East Road)
3 | Don't go.
||| Hongyunxuan (Beiwei Road Branch)
Only machine-cut mutton slices are sold. There are three kinds of meat: ordinary, half-cloud and fine-fine is the only raw mutton sashimi in old Beijing, but frankly speaking, mutton is not suitable for raw eating, with poor taste and strong smell. The sashimi is nothing more than a show of skill to prove the quality of mutton.
The color is bright and beautiful, but it is not the same thing to eat in the mouth. Fat meat is greasy, lean meat is dry wood, and chopsticks break when touched. The only advantage is that the treatment is in place, and the bottom of the pot is as clear as ever after being rinsed for an hour, and there is little blood foam.
||| Beiping Three Brothers (Guijie Branch)
In old Beijing, the meat that is rinsed with meat pays attention to standing still. Meat is not watered, and it is indomitable. The three brothers in Beiping may serve meat on a vertical plate in order to show that their meat is good, but as mentioned in the popular science of instant-boiled mutton, standing on a vertical plate is not a good standard for meat.
It can only be said that fresh sheep go to the brain and cut their hands three times. I don't know why the fresh mutton and melon strips completely abandoned the knife work and made them thick and stringy, too thin and firewood, losing the flavor of old Beijing hotpot.
||| Changying San Brothers (Changying Branch)
It's full of people, but it tastes a little lonely. The best combination of the best lamb tendon and the best lamb tenderloin can't stand the word "best" in terms of meat quality and taste. Fresh beef venetian blinds didn't make the taste buds get rid of boredom, and the lamb ribs were even a little scared.
||| Laowusiji Hotpot (Caishikou Branch)
Hand-cut fresh mutton is dull in color, the meat is very scattered, and chopsticks will break as soon as they are clipped. There are two suspicious dents on both ends of the hand-cut meat slice, and the surface is too flat, so it is suspected that it has been pressed with a mold. Lao Wu selected mutton as the best-selling machine-cut meat slice in the store, but it was broken into eight pieces in the pot.
The only thing on the horizon is the staple food. The fried sesame seed cake has a crisp surface and a distinct inner layer, but it is not greasy at all. Deep-fried steamed buns are crispy, with a little soft heart in the middle and a layer of stinky tofu, which is fragrant and tumbling.
* * *
Cai Lan said it was fun to cook shrimp and watch the color. The same is true of instant-boiled mutton. Charcoal, fire, boiling water, bright red, light pink, white meat.
Copper pot, clear soup pot bottom, fresh mutton, sesame sauce, sesame seed cake, all together? No, you left behind three sets of Beijing copper pot hotpot.
Chinese cabbage, frozen tofu and vermicelli are the orthodox styles of Beijingers. Chinese cabbage is the only green vegetable in Beijing's memory, and it is the only choice. The bumpy shape of frozen tofu is to absorb the meat flavor in the soup. The fans came to the finale, absorbed the essence of the soup base, and were also responsible for wiping out the sesame sauce in the small bowl and eating it dry.