Buckwheat noodle glutinous rice noodles, glutinous rice noodles, were called "river leaks" in ancient times. 'Agricultural Book, Buckwheat' by Wang Zhen, an agriculturist of the Yuan Dynasty: "Behind the mountains in the north, various counties have a variety of varieties. They can be peeled and ground into noodles or made into soup cakes." Hancheng's mutton glutinous rice is not used as soup cakes ( In ancient times, soup noodles were called soup cakes). Instead, a special foil-coated rice cake was used to press the buckwheat noodles into thin and long round noodles, scoop them into a bowl, and then pour in mutton soup with various seasonings. Therefore, it is called mutton glutinous rice. If it is eaten cold, add a little jelly, and then add spicy oil, minced garlic, mustard and other seasonings to form a jelly dumpling. It not only has a special fragrance when eaten, but is also very beneficial to the body. Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" records: "Qiu Wheat lowers Qi and widens the intestines, so it can relieve gastrointestinal stagnation and treat turbid stagnation, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and upper Qi diseases." Because buckwheat is cold in nature, there is a saying in Hancheng: "Buckwheat noodles are cool and can't be separated from three things that are well blended, spicy pepper, garlic, and mustard." The buckwheat noodles are heat-shrunk, the original soup is added with seasonings, and the mutton paste is spicy. "

Buckwheat noodles are mostly made from buckwheat noodles. Buckwheat is known as the most nutritious food among all cereals. It is rich in starch, protein, amino acids, vitamin P, vitamin B1, B2, rutin, and magnesium. , total flavonoids, etc. And buckwheat contains essential amino acids. The relatively fixed name is Qiao Mian Heluo Qiao Noodles Huoluo Buckwheat Noodles 1000. grams, 300 grams of water, and a little alkaline noodles.

Pour the buckwheat noodles into a basin, mix well with water, then add the alkaline water, knead until soft, and place the glutinous rice noodles in a pot of boiling water. Take a piece of noodles and fill it into the hole of the glutinous rice cake, press the handle of the glutinous rice cake with your hands, press the noodles into strips, drop them into the boiling water pot, cook them and remove them.

The gluten is ready. Strong and tasty, but cold in nature and difficult to digest.

Note that this noodle is a kind of rice noodles commonly eaten by people in mountainous areas such as Luliang, Xinzhou, and Jinzhong. It can be eaten with various toppings or as soup noodles. Especially paired with mutton dumplings, the meat is warm and the noodles are warm and cold. It tastes delicious and is best eaten with chili.

There is a place in the northwest of Xi'an city wall called Jiaochang. As the name suggests, it was probably the place where the Eight Banners and Green Camp soldiers practiced martial arts. I have never seen the "men", but for a long time, the word "teaching field gate" appeared in the mouths of Xi'an people. There are two other words "饸饹" hanging on the back.

Because it is mostly made of buckwheat noodles, the more fixed name is buckwheat noodles. According to some research, this food was invented in the Yuan Dynasty. Already, it is based on the section of "Buckwheat in the Book of Agriculture" written by Wang Zhen of the Yuan Dynasty, which states: "Behind the mountains in the north, there are many varieties in the counties, which are ground into flour or made into soup cakes, and the Wei River drains. "He Liu" and "饸饹" are very similar in pronunciation whether in Mandarin or Shaanxi dialect. Perhaps the latter is a transliteration of the former.

The buckwheat yield per acre is not high, but The made glutinous rice noodles are very lovable, with bright black color and chewy texture. The more they chew, the more delicious they become. Therefore, there was a slang saying in the alleys of Xi'an decades ago: "Buckwheat noodles are black, tough and chewy." Hospitality. "You can entertain guests by not making glutinous rice dumplings just by messing around in your own small kitchen for a while. Just like mutton dumplings and calabash heads, you have to go to a specialized "time-honored brand" on the market to taste the authentic flavor. As mentioned above Jiaochangmen Restaurant was once the most famous restaurant in the ancient city.

After asking some elders in the culinary field, a more certain theory about Jiaochangmen Restaurant is that it appeared in the late Qing Dynasty and originated from Lujia Village in Weinan. The brand was created by an old man named Meng. His descendant Meng Zhaowu inherited the family tradition and developed the unique skill of making glutinous rice cakes. In 1932, he first sold them at the Nanyuanmen No. 1 Market, the busiest market in Xi'an at that time. Later, it moved to Jiaochangmen. In the following decades, it became its own brand in Xi'an's food market and became famous. According to experts, Meng's is very particular about the selection of ingredients when making glutinous rice. They mainly use Guanzhong Qianyang, Longxian, Baishui, and Changchun. Fresh buckwheat from Wuhan and Pucheng counties is freshly ground and made. I have seen the making process of glutinous rice several times. The main steps include kneading noodles, boiling strips, and mixing with oil. These are not surprising. The only interesting thing is There are two steps. One is to make bluestone water. Choose a piece of bluestone the size of an egg and burn it red with fire. Put it in cold water and stir it. With a "squeak" sound, the bluestone water will be made. Take a small bowl and slowly pour it into the basin and then knead it. It is said that adding this bluestone water makes the glutinous rice chewy and chewy. I watched the round stones removed from the fire gently slide into the water, and countless small rolling water droplets burst out in an instant. The mist was steaming, and I thought at that time, this was simply injecting soul into the glutinous rice!

The method of using other physical properties to make food smooth in the mouth exists in many places in the north.

I remember that when I was in the army, I was stationed in the Mu Us Desert in Yulin. I often ate a kind of yellow-faced glutinous rice dumplings in the camp. , which is the seed of a kind of weed that grows abundantly in the desert. It was not until many years later that we found out that the price of the "sea buckthorn" oil extracted from that thing was staggering. Less gossip. Let’s talk about another aspect of making glutinous rice cakes. Press the bed. It is to put a wooden stand like a thick wooden stool on a large iron pot, with a funnel-shaped round hole facing the pot. The buckwheat noodles are rolled into balls and stuffed into the round hole, and pressed hard into thin strips. Pot, the jargon is "the pot is on, the pot is on and the pressure is on." "To beat" means to break the long strips and collect them as soon as it boils. This kind of bed is rarely seen in restaurants in Xi'an now. When you do see it, foreigners take pictures and locals watch to see how rare it is. This utensil can be put into the food and cultural relics museum. There are two ways to eat this glutinous rice dumpling, hot and cold. It is usually eaten cold in summer, with refined salt, balsamic vinegar, mustard, garlic juice, sesame sauce and red oil chili pepper. Sometimes the chef adds too much mustard, and when you put it in your mouth with chopsticks, you can't help but feel all over your body. With a tremble, it seems that all the seven orifices and six senses are connected. It is a good thing to relieve the summer heat. In the winter, it is mostly eaten hot. Pour sesame seeds and hot bone soup into the glutinous rice bowl, then sprinkle with pepper, coriander, shredded garlic sprouts and seaweed. The soup tastes fresh and gluten-free, and makes the whole body comfortable.

I used the word "once" when I said that the "饹饹" at Jiaochangmen was famous. I just want to say here that the words "饸饹 at Jiaochangmen" are rarely mentioned in the mouths of ordinary Xi'an people. . However, for those who like this food, there is no need to worry. There are more and more restaurants selling black buckwheat noodles in Xi'an, from famous restaurants like Xi'an Restaurant and Wuyi Hotel to street snack shops. There are really a lot of tartary buckwheat glutinous rice noodles. If you have time to try a bowl, you will find that the paste and seasoning sauce of these glutinous rice noodles are really more and more delicious. It is no wonder that nowadays, things are abundant and people are abundant. Their mouths have become slanderous and sharp. This slander may lead to the emergence of several new "time-honored brands"!