Hometown food
Hour in the South China Sea grandmother's home life for a few years, grandmother's Cantonese food to me left an unforgettable memory. Now, when I think of Guangdong, I think of my grandparents, and I think of the Guangdong hometown dishes that make people's mouths water. So, once the winter vacation, rushed back to the South China Sea, Guangdong with my parents, to make up for the food, make up for the chili.
The grandparents family saw the hungry ghost-like back, raw rice can eat a few handfuls of looks, not to say two words, immediately go to Guangdong's most lively Cantonese city to solve my adulteration, I am very happy.
Guangdong is the authentic winter months, is suitable for eating spicy and hot hot pot. We sit around a table, both to satisfy my thirst for food, but also to satisfy the love of the hometown celebrations. Outside the cold wind, dark, few people, but the restaurant is full of people, steaming. Like me, a good sip of people into this kind of food environment will be excited. Look, the service lady tied a headscarf, holding a dish bowl fish through the shuttle, welcome into the guests to and fro; that hot pot under the fire red red straight run, hot pot on the hot air white straight up; and full of the store's aroma to my nose, can not help but vascularization. Popularity is strong, the heat is strong, the aroma is strong, mixed with the hometown words floating to the ear, "and then sip a little bit of cluck" so that I eat this delicious ghost eating sex, hungry tiger pounced on food
The Cantonese people pay attention to the nutrition, but the Cantonese people eat not only eat nutrition, but also to eat the atmosphere. Each dish is a red chili pepper, only festive, only good-looking. The hot tears and sweat, wide open, said the heart of the matter, calling friends, so that dare to love and hate the distinctive personality of the food table in the most fully blossomed. But here I dare not eat too much chili.
In the middle of our table was the hot pot, next to the typical Cantonese dishes such as steamed scallops with black bean and chili, steamed fish head with soy chili, and the big fish and meat specially ordered for me. The peppers, again, were seasonal and delicious. People from my hometown told me that spicy meat is also about eating before the first month of the year, the most pure.
Among them is the flavorful Baiyun pork knuckle.
Legend has it that there is a temple on Baiyun Mountain in Guangzhou, where a monk likes to eat meat. One day, when the temple elders were out, he cooked pork knuckles in a clay pot. Who
Knowing that the elder returned early, the monk was afraid of being punished, and quickly threw the just cooked pork knuckles to the side of the creek. The next day, a woodcutter passed by and picked up the pig's knuckles and ate them with some sugar and vinegar. He found the flavor is very good. After that, he used this method to eat pig's knuckles. The method spread and it was called Baiyun Pork Knuckle.
In a short while, the dishes were served, the hot pot was opened, the wine was also poured full, our friends and family gathered around a table, the official start to eat. "Come on, come on, for the peak son from the busy study life back, and the New Year reunion, everyone cheers!" The mist from the hot pot hides the fog in the corners of my eyes. This is the long-lost hometown meal. I know that when I go back to school to study again, can not eat hometown food, miss the hometown people, I will long recall once eaten under the sky of Guangdong this meal, hot and fragrant, hot tears.
Other information:
Guangzhou: Guangzhou people love to eat, will eat, the world famous, an exaggeration is that: Guangzhou people in addition to the four-legged table do not eat, what all eat, so, sparrows, partridges, pangolin, bats, seadogs, rats, cats, dogs, snakes, monkeys, tortoises ...... more than a thousand kinds of materials can be Into the table delicacies, and even the illiterate mistaken for "locusts" of the worm, also in the cooking of the list, and a chef's hand, and then turned into exotic wonders, delicious dishes, so that people in China and abroad impressed, very surprised.
Guangzhou is located in subtropical, tropical and subtropical fruit varieties, all year round there are fresh fruits on the market, so there is a "town of fruit" reputation. Guangzhou has more than 500 kinds of fruit varieties, including litchi, bananas, papaya, pineapple, the most widely distributed, the most production, the best quality, known as the four famous fruits of Lingnan.
Food in Guangzhou has a long history of being passed down, and is renowned both at home and abroad. Cantonese cuisine, one of the eight major Chinese cuisines, has become the most popular at home and abroad because of its unlimited ingredients, emphasis on texture and flavor, fresh taste, a variety of dishes, and endless variations. It is composed of Guangzhou Cuisine, Chaoshan Cuisine and Dongjiang Cuisine, with Guangzhou Cuisine as the main body, featuring a wide variety of ingredients, fine production, light flavors, seasonal variations and scientific nutrition. The scale of Guangzhou's catering industry is second to none in the country.
2.
When it comes to Chongqing and Chengdu cuisines, outsiders may not understand and say that they are not all Sichuan cuisines. In fact, the big model is almost the same, and the variety of dishes is almost the same. But people in this province seems to be very different. Chongqing's food is like Chongqing's geography, like the mountains and rivers, there is a kind of momentum of swallowing all the elephants. And Chengdu food is like a small bamboo garden in front of the gurgling brook like, there is a kind of small family beauty. Such a connotation in the inside, so that Chengdu cooks and Chongqing cooks is to do the same dish, will also be very different.
Contrasting with the first gold medal dish of Sichuan cuisine, Chengdu's back to the pot of meat is a little softer, sugar, vinegar, chili peppers, noodles, sauce and what to put in a more moderate, the overall feeling of a more palatable. Chongqing's back to the pot of meat is more explosive crisp a little, and seasoning is much more ruthless, the overall feeling is more painful. But this texture, outsiders generally do not feel out.
Chongqing people like to stimulate, there is a kind of lawless and straightforward culture in it. Eaters do not stick to the rules, when the cook does not love to go according to the recipe to do dishes, and therefore often wind flow a variety of new dishes. And these new dishes are generally not formally trained jianghu chef created.
And Chengdu people like to live elegantly, there is a kind of traveling clouds and flowing water of petty culture in it. Eaters want to be authentic, and those who work as cooks dare not slack off. A Chengdu cook to do back to the pot meat, from the selection of meat, slicing, ingredients, fire are incredibly careful. Every restaurant wants to claim that their cooks are regular graduates of Sichuan Culinary University. Chengdu cuisine is getting more and more elegant, more and more elaborate, and more and more refined.
If I invite a well-dressed friend, I invite him to eat Chengdu food. It's more classy. If I invite a friend to eat Chongqing food, I invite him to eat. It's more flavorful.
3.
Innovation of Chongqing cuisine
Chongqing people are unconditionally supportive of innovative dishes, from the 80s, a large number of rivers and lakes of dishes in front of the Chongqing people in a steady stream, some did not withstand the test of the Chongqing people, and slowly faded into obscurity, but all the withstood the test of the general have to be spread first to Chengdu, and then to the north and south of the river. For example, there are more than a dozen of the more famous Chongqing dishes that have been circulated.
Chongqing hot pot. The longer history of the river and lake dishes is said to have been invented by the Yangtze River slender men, fishermen and pickers. There are many kinds of hot pots, the most famous is maw hot pot, then there are eel hot pot, seafood hot pot, fish head hot pot, mutton hot pot, dog meat hot pot, mandarin duck hot pot and so on.
Jiangjin Pickled Fish. From the roadside eatery of Zhu Erge in the town of Jinfu, Jiangjin, Chongqing, it was served to oncoming drivers, who then spread it throughout Chongqing. it became popular in 1988. I am better at this dish.
Gele Mountain Spicy Chicken. From the town of Geleshan, Shapingba District, Chongqing, a small roadside store called Lin Zhongle was the first to introduce it. it became popular in 1990. Diners enjoy searching for soybean-sized pieces of popcorn-crisp chicken in a large pot of chili peppers. The restaurant is located in Gele Shan, a forest park in Chongqing, near the famous Lin Yuan, Chiang Kai-shek's official residence in Chongqing (it is said that you are not in Chongqing until you visit the Lin Yuan, but the site is closed), and the tourists plus diners formed what is now known as the Chili Chicken Street. I'm good at this dish.
Beer duck. From a roadside eatery 7 kilometers from Chongqing's Nanan district, the inventor is said to have been inspired by Guizhou, where it became popular in 1992. The recipe is to braise a duck with a bottle of beer, which is relatively fresh and spicy. At its peak, the restaurant used thousands of ducks a day, but it is now in decline.
Spring water chicken. It comes from Nanshan Town, Nanan District, Chongqing, and became popular in 1993. The method used is to kill live chickens quickly, and then burn them fiercely, from killing the chicken to the dish can not be more than 5 minutes. The dish comes from Nanshan, which is known as the "flower crown of the mountain city". As a result, a spring chicken street has been formed and a spring chicken festival has been held.
Tai'an fish. It is from Tai'an Town, Tongnan County, Chongqing Municipality, and became popular in 1994. It is also passed out and popularized by drivers. However, this dish is more skillful and not easy to imitate, so it is not as popular as other dishes. My daughter-in-law is better at this dish.
Hot pot fish. It comes from Lianglu Town, Jiangbei District, Chongqing. In the beginning, it was also for drivers' friends. it became popular in 1996. The hot pot fish is also special raw. Fish selection of about 10 pounds of fat fish about to flow oil, sliced into palm-sized pieces. The fish is sliced into palm-sized pieces and cooked in a large iron pot like a tank until it turns red. When the dish is ready, it is served in a big foot basin, red and steaming hot. A circle of people would gather around the pot and fish with beer bottles. When you're done eating, you can cook up some vegetables and tofu, which is a great way to get things done.
Boiled fish. In fact, the predecessor of the boiled fish is the hot pot fish. After the hot pot fish spread, many of the city's restaurants began to imitate do, but the kitchen of these restaurants, there is no way to get a large iron pot and like iron like fire, and then diners are not convenient to eat 10 pounds of fish. Therefore, it is made into a small pot, small fire, small fish. The name is boiled fish. But I personally feel that there is no wide soup, fierce fire, fat fish like hot pot fish pain.
Spicy crab. This dish should be invented by the Chongqing restaurant. Because of the rivers and lakes restaurant is not generally not involved in the crab such high-grade things. But spicy crab in Chongqing still belongs to the Yangchun white snow like things, in the jianghu is not winning. 1996 began to popular.
Bullfrogs with pickled peppers began to take off in 1996. In the beginning was the bullfrog, then pickled pepper squid boy. And derived from a variety of pickled pepper series. This dish also spread from the restaurant.
Stewed duck with pickled radish. With very sour and very sour pickled sour radish, this radish is specially soaked, not available in the provinces. It is usually soaked for six months, the longer the better. This dish has given rise to many varieties, such as sour cowpea stew, pickled mountain pepper stew, lamb stew, chicken stew, etc. It became popular in 1996.
Posting Carp. From the town of Posting, Dazu County, Chongqing Municipality. became popular in 1997. Very much seasoned and eaten in a sophisticated way.
Wujiang Fish. From Fuling area of Chongqing Municipality. The Wujiang River runs through the Fuling and Qianjiang areas of Chongqing, with many tributaries, producing a variety of wild fresh fish, and the practice of Wujiang fish is to pay attention to the freshness of the fish, but the city is usually farmed fish, so the city to do the Wujiang fish is usually used catfish (viscous) fish. began to be popular in 1998.
Mao Blood Wanton. From the town of Maguikou, Shapingba District, Chongqing, a town that has preserved Chongqing's ancient dock culture. Mao maw, blood slices (eel) and duck blood wang are cooked together. It is also passed down from the poor dock laborers. It's been hotter in the past few years.
The above are some of the more typical and popular innovative Chongqing dishes. There are also Laifeng Fish, Kouxi Catfish, Chengkou Roasted Bacon, Qianjiang Fish in Sour Soup (also found in Guizhou), Nanchuan Bamboo Shoots with Pork, Wulong's Roasted Chicken with Mountain Mushrooms, Bandit Chicken, and many others.
Generally after an innovative dish comes out, the first few stores, first circulated through the driver's friends, then 10,000 heads, and then like a gale, popularized the city. All those who know about it can't resist the urge to go and taste it.
Chongqing these dishes have some *** with the same characteristics, is generally created by the jianghu chef, raw materials, production are more popular, unlike Chengdu's what camphor tea ducks to a few steam a few smoked, the people can not afford to eat and can not do. Chongqing cuisine cooking method is generally large oil, fierce material (some dishes are more chili than vegetables), fire, pot, pot, pay attention to kill now do. In the eating method, is also relatively rude, like spring chicken, chicken head, chicken neck, chicken liver and what mixed into a large pot, sometimes chicken feathers are visible, more in line with the lawlessness of the Chongqing people's psychology and rude and straightforward character.
4.
Improvement of Chengdu cuisine
Chengdu cuisine can not be said to have any innovative dishes, more famous and popular nationwide seems to be the Feng fish head, but in fact it is also a kind of fish head hot pot improvement. Therefore, Chengdu cuisine is seldom popular nationwide firestorm unusual dishes out, while Chongqing cuisine often maintain a unique posture. For example, boiled fish is now popular in Beijing, even my home downstairs of the Northeast restaurant are grandly launched their boiled fish. It's almost as if boiled fish is too deadly as a powerful flu.
But Chengdu cuisine has been digging into the ancient treasure trove of Sichuan cuisine, constantly summarizing and improving. From the selection of materials, cooking, service, business, all-round continuous improvement. This improvement is not the improvement of a cook's personal consciousness, but the continuous improvement based on the accumulation of a national consciousness.
Since the Han Dynasty, when Chengdu's Xiangru washed its utensils and Wenjun was the stove, Chengdu's diners have paid attention to the mood of eating, the experience of eating, and the perfection of eating. Li Bai (Jiangyou people, Jiangyou 150 kilometers from Chengdu, young often traveled to Chengdu) of the moon alone drink to the shadow into the three feeling, like the street drinking Chongqing people will not have. Su Shi (Meishan, Meishan is 80 kilometers south of Chengdu) invented the Dongpo meat needs to be simmered for three hours, Chongqing people who like to eat alive and drink hair and blood will not have the patience.
You want to eat authentic Sichuan-style stir-fry, Chengdu's large and small museums do not do too much worse, are more concerned about consistency, cleanliness is an order of magnitude higher than in Chongqing. And to be in Chongqing on the fancy. Fried back to the pot of meat, Chongqing's museums have put dried tofu, some lettuce head, some put cabbage, anyway, the cook what he is happy to put on what to put. As for the choice of seasoning, it is more fancy. Chengdu's large and small restaurants, always put green garlic seedlings. If the green garlic seedlings are not available, he will tell you back to the pot meat can not be fried. This will make Chongqing people surprised.
Chengdu people carefully summarize each small dishes fried, a Chengdu cook summarizes a back to the pot meat fried, can write 10,000 words, teach you 30 days, and then a master a master to pass on. A Chongqing cook to summarize the back to the pot meat fried method, is three words: meat, chili, bean, other nothing. You in Chengdu at a random street store, eat a dry-fried cabbage, are so crispy and crisp, long aftertaste. And leave Chengdu, travel all over the country, you can not eat such a good fried green vegetables. Chengdu people say, fried vegetables is very difficult, no one in Chongqing agreed, because they do not like the Chengdu people to study so deep. Beijing's fried bok choy is even less worth mentioning.
When I was a student in Chengdu, I used to walk two stops a week to eat siu bai from a small restaurant. The small restaurant had a small facade and was not very crowded; a three-quarter shy western Sichuan girl stood at the counter with a plain face, then gently walked up and gently asked what she wanted. I usually ask for a serving of siu baek, a bowl of rice, a bowl of bean curd, and a plate of pickles. Then the girl gently serves you the rice and then gently walks away. The siu bai is very well made, the meat and sprouts are very well chosen, and the steaming is not to mention the heat. The Prozi rice (a Chengdu method of steaming rice in a wooden barrel with a special fragrance) was always hot and soft. I enjoyed it quietly by myself, relaxing and enjoying the flavor of drinking alone under the moon. And similarly eating in Chongqing, the tension of splashing spices is like eating a prison meal.
I'm not a big fan of sliced meat in pots, and there's something to be said for putting pots and sliced meat together. But I was in Anren town in Chengdu (that's the hometown of the big landowner Liu Wencai, 60 kilometers away from Chengdu), and the small restaurants there make really perfect slices of meat with potpourri. The restaurants there are small, with cleaned-up Western Sichuan wood-paneled storefronts alongside ancient greenstone roads. The shopkeepers keep their prepared ingredients on a large countertop, so fresh it's as if they were growing in the ground an hour ago. There's no recipe for what you want to eat, so just look at the case and choose. When they make pot roast and sliced pork, they very carefully choose slices of magnolia and shiitake mushrooms (which they rely on to enhance the flavor) to make the fresh broth, and they handle the fire of both the pot roast and the sliced pork just right, so that once the broth oil is poured over the fire, all that's left is the aroma of the house after a rumbling fire. We rode 60 kilometers on a rainy spring evening and enjoyed this wonderful pot roast and meat slices, which was really wonderful and unforgettable. I have since cycled to it 3 times in a row. It's a pity that such a famous dish tastes the same when you eat it outside Chengdu. Because no one like the Chengdu people as meticulous study of the softness of the potpourri, the tenderness of the meat slices, the freshness of the soup oil. Even the way the food is served plays a key role in the quality of the sliced meat in the pot.
Therefore, when Chengdu people cook, the degree of meticulousness is really a heaven and a hell compared with Chongqing people. Each dish, Chengdu people are to carefully summarize, choose what material, with what pot, burn what fire, and how to plate, how to serve, how to arrange the table, etc., all carefully and thoughtfully repeated. On the contrary, Chongqing people no matter what dishes, are a big pot to you up, with waiters soaking in the soup of the big finger. Although bold, but which hides the rough and tumble nonsense can be imagined.
Chengdu cuisine is good at improving the basis is actually summarized. Therefore, the strength of Chengdu cuisine is reflected in a number of home cooking and snacks. Speaking of Chengdu's snacks, it is indeed the Chengdu people after dozens of hundreds of years of improvement and summarization of the current appearance. The fat intestines and noodles at Qingshiqiao, the husband and wife lung slices/bell dumplings at Tidu Street, the dragon hands at Chunxi Road, and the Mapo tofu, to name a few, have all been patiently refined over several generations. And the practice of Xue Tao's dried tofu at Jiouye Qiao is said to have been handed down from a Tang Dynasty grieving female lyricist, perfect for those vinegar girls who like to gnash their teeth. Chengdu's snacks, which have been passed down through the ages, are so varied that it would take a month to eat them all. Chongqing snacks, it is much inferior, is that there are a few things, are brought by outsiders during the war, such as Ling Tangyuan, Hangzhou Xiaolongbao and so on, are not as good as the original and is gradually disappearing. Because the traditional methods have been taken over by the Chongqing people to throw away. Chongqing people don't have the patience to summarize these experiences. Zhu Erge, the man who created the pickled fish, is said to have had a very prosperous life for several years, but now he is still guarding his three old tiled rooms by the roadside, looking forward to the patronage of customers who are no longer passionate.