Su Dongpo calls himself a glutton, a veteran eater and a typical carnivore.
One day, he got pink eye, and the doctor told him to eat less meat to recover. He thought for a moment and said, I want to listen to you, but my mouth doesn't agree. It said, I don't care if my eyes are sick. So, I have to keep eating this meat.
Su Dongpo wrote nearly fifty poems about eating in his life. In the poem, litchi, longan, betel nut, waxberry, olive, peach, apricot, peach, pomegranate, cherry, papaya and other fruits have appeared, as well as animals such as carp, finless porpoise, pork, scorpion, rabbit, oxtail raccoon, yellowbird, spring dove, pheasant, smoked rat, honey pump, bat, snake and frog.
Look at Huangzhou, Hubei Province, the hinterland of the Great Song Dynasty.
In 179, 42-year-old Su Dongpo got away from Wutai poetry case and was banished to Huangzhou. In his own words, "it's ridiculous to laugh at yourself all your life, but it's ridiculous to get old." .
huangzhou, now Huanggang city, Hubei province, is located at the southern foot of Dabie mountain. The unique geographical location has brought rich delicacies and game. For a senior foodie, this is a little fortunate in misfortune.
the wind blows and the flowers fly into the curtain, and when I think about it from afar, I am sad. The mud is tired of listening to the cock-headed stork, and the wine is shallow and delicious. -
winter is the fattest season for oxtail raccoons. Su Dongpo, with an ox-tailed raccoon, visited Xu Junyou, the prefect of Huangzhou. During Su Dongpo's relegation, Xu Taishou took good care of his family.
outdoors, the cold wind blows and snowflakes fly around, but indoors, the warmth is strong and the meat smells good. The two had a good time drinking wine and feasting on oxtail and beaver. The delicate and fragrant raccoon dog meat dispelled the relegation and sorrow lingering in Su Dongpo's heart.
According to Compendium of Materia Medica, oxtail beaver has the effect of sobering up. For Su Dongpo, who likes drinking but can't hold his liquor, it's the best kind of appetizer.
According to local records, the pheasants in Dabie Mountain area were always tribute to the New Year before the Qing Dynasty, which shows that their meat is delicious.
Su Dongpo certainly won't miss this mountain treasure. There is a poem to prove it:
The male pheasant drags his tail and flies to the sunset. Fighting in the air, colorful feathers falling like flowers. A pair for a hundred dollars is the best when it tastes new. Cook mixed chicken, and the claw distance is full of teeth. -
The poem "Eating Pheasants" mentioned the practice of wild pheasants: frying.
Heat the pan with a small fire, pour the oil all over the bottom of the pan, and after the oil sizzles, put the pheasant into pieces until the pheasant is golden. With a gentle bite, it is tender and crisp, and the cheeks and teeth remain fragrant.
how much is the pheasant? One hundred dollars for two. You should know that Su Dongpo was demoted as the deputy head of the militia in Huangzhou, and his salary was so meager that the whole family had to rely on farming to get enough to eat, so that he stipulated that the daily household income was 15 yuan. Buying two pheasants will cost two-thirds of a day's household, and only senior foodies are willing to give up.
Dongpo pork
"Huangzhou is good pork, and the price is worthless. The rich refuse to eat, and the poor don't understand cooking. -"Ode to Pork"
The Song Dynasty has always been an expensive sheep and a cheap pig. Superior people like to eat mutton, but they think pork is fall in price. People don't know how to cook, and they think pork is not delicious.
how can it be difficult to get Su Dongpo, a glutton, for such a simple thing as cooking?
without water, firewood can't burn. Don't rush him when he is ripe, he is beautiful when the fire is full. -"Ode to Pork"
Less water and low fire stew is Su Dongpo's exclusive secret recipe, and the important thing is to say it three times:
Su Dongpo's Dongpo pork is white cook the meat, white cook the meat and white cook the meat
How does it taste?
get up and play a bowl every day, so full that you can't worry about it. -"Ode to Pork"
It seems that for Su Dongpo, a carnivore, every morning without eating meat is a disappointment to life!
After hundreds of years of evolution, Dongpo pork gradually evolved into a well-known braised pork, which is also very attractive!
Next, we turned our sights to the southeast and came to Changzhou, Jiangsu.
Su Dongpo has never worked in Changzhou, but he has been to Changzhou more than ten times in his life. One of the temptations is puffer fish.
There are three or two peach blossoms outside the bamboo, which is the prophet of duck warming on the riverside.
Artemisia selengensis has short reed buds all over the ground, which is the time when puffer fish want to go up.
This is a picture poem written by Su Dongpo for Hui Chong's "The Night Scene of the Spring River". In just four sentences, the vibrant scene in early spring comes to life.
The last sentence is very obscure, and puffer fish are most plump when they lay eggs upstream. Only a foodie will think of it, oh, it's time for puffer fish to go on the market again.
Su Dongpo has an interest in eating puffer fish. His friend, Li Zhongshi, invited him to taste puffer fish at home. At that time, Su Dongpo seemed to be a small online celebrity in the literary world. When the women, old and young, learned about it, they all hid behind the screen to hear what he would say about eating goods. I saw Su Dongpo's chopsticks under the slope, and he was silent for a long time. Everyone felt disappointed and was about to leave when Su Dongpo shouted: It's worth dying.
You see, Su Dongpo is the ancestor who desperately ate puffer fish.
The third stop of Da Song on the Tip of the Tongue is Huxian County, Shaanxi Province.
during the Tang and song dynasties, there was a lake outside Huxian county, with clear water quality, and the fish in the lake was famous for its delicacy in the northwest.
when su Dongpo was a book signing judge in Fengxiang prefecture nearby, he wrote poems to praise the fish.
The frost cloud is broken into a double mask, with a long fish lying like a sword. The purple grass wears the cheeks and is miserable, and the red scales shine and shine. Although it is still moving, it is dyed before it is cooked. -Bubei Fish
Such delicious fish must be original. Su Dongpo wrote the Method of Cooking Fish:
Clean the fish, then put it in a pot with cold water, sprinkle with salt, then add Chinese cabbage and scallion, and then add ginger, radish juice and cooking wine when it is half cooked. The ratio of these three ingredients is one to one. When the fish is about to go out of the pot, sprinkle some dried tangerine peel. OK, Dongpo fish is ready for work.
foodies, you might as well make Dongpo fish according to this recipe.
We followed Su Dongpo's relegation to Huizhou, Guangdong.
Huizhou, which was rampant in the Northern Song Dynasty, was extremely underdeveloped. However, there are also delicious foods. In addition to the 3 lychees known all over the country, Su Dongpo also found a delicious food-roasted sheep scorpion.
it's also quite embarrassing to talk about the research and development of this scorpion. Huizhou was an underdeveloped county and city at that time, and only one sheep was killed in the market every day. A typical monk has too much porridge. Su Dongpo was a relegated official, and he bought it there. But as a carnivore, you have to satisfy your hunger, right? So I had to buy sheep spines that people didn't want.
These leftover bits and pieces can't beat the glutton Su Dongpo.
He cooked the sheep scorpion first, then coated it with some wine and thin salt, and then roasted it in the stove. Wow, the sheep spine is crisp and the meat is very attractive.
Su Dongpo specially wrote to his younger brother Su Zhe about his unique secret recipe, and attached a comment: eating crab claws is very nourishing.
The scorpions taste like crabs!
At the age of 62, Su Dongpo was relegated to Zhanzhou, now Hainan Island, by his political opponents.
Zhanzhou was a barren land in the Song Dynasty. In Su Dongpo's words, there was no meat, no medicine and no room to live here.
actually, there is no meat to eat.
Su Dongpo once mentioned in his letter to his younger brother Su Zhe:
The natives had a meal of potatoes and taro, and recommended that rats be smoked and bats burned; When I first heard honey pumping and vomiting, I was a little closer to the custom of toad.
Smoked rats, bats and toads are well known, so what is honey pumping?
The newborn mice are hairless and pink. Pour honey juice on them, put them together and eat them. The young mice chirp in their mouths, so they are called honey pumping.
From the letter, it's not clear whether Su Dongpo ate these "game" or not, but San Q thinks that as an avid puffer fish eater, he must try it.
I won't put the photos, in case, uh, you know! ! !
Because of the party struggle, Su Dongpo has been living a wandering life since middle age, but he also ate delicious food that people of the same era could not taste. Through his records, later generations were lucky enough to see the delicious food, cooking skills and unique food culture all over the Song Dynasty.
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