Chaoshan congou tea has become an important part of the current study of Chaoshan culture. Drinking congou tea is a kind of communication courtesy in people's daily life, which has produced many manners and customs. These manners and customs also reflect the psychology of Chaoshan people. In this Kung Fu Teahouse, we will talk about this topic.

As a host, making tea for guests is very particular about "tea":

When the host makes tea, the head must be washed and then poured out, and it is not allowed to drink. Because there are impurities in it, it is not suitable to drink. There is a local saying that "the head rushes to the feet (the same sound) and the second rushes to the tea". If you let the guests drink the first tea, it is bullying others.

"New guests for tea" When the host and guest are drinking tea, if a new guest arrives in the middle, the host should welcome him and change the tea immediately, otherwise he will be regarded as "slow guest" and "disrespectful". After changing tea leaves, new customers should drink the second tea first, such as new customers repeatedly shirking and calling it "disrespectful."

The local people are warm and hospitable, and they treat people with strong tea. However, when they have been drinking tea for a long time or are not interested in each other, the host deliberately refuses to change the tea. At this time, the guests should know that this is the host's "dark order" and have to leave.

the owner of "no brown" treats tea from strong to weak, and changes the tea after several times. If the tea is not changed, it will be considered as "no brown".

Chaoshan people love tea, which also implies Chaoshan people's refined psychology.

The unique geographical environment and humanistic environment of Chaoshan Plain have combined to evolve into an elegant and Confucian Chaoshan culture. Among them, the most representative is Chaoshan congou. As early as the Northern Song Dynasty, there was the earliest record about Chaozhou tea. At that time, Chaoshan had a tea tasting procedure in the banquet room. From burning charcoal and washing cups to making and drinking tea, every process embodies the Confucian atmosphere of "kindness and auspiciousness" The only purpose of drinking congou tea is not to quench thirst. Its complicated skills and procedures include the interest of natural life, and it is an artistic drink. The strong but not greasy, light and distant fragrance of congou tea is simple and natural, which makes people feel pure in the center of tea tasting process and a feeling of enjoying life arises spontaneously.

Many proverbs reflect the refined psychology of Chaoshan people drinking congou tea, and the gentleness and elegance of Chaoshan people are fully displayed between one respect and one invitation.

"Wine is full of respect, tea is full of deceit". Because wine is cold, guests will not be scalded when they take it over, while tea is hot. When they take it over when it is full, the teacup is very hot, which will make the guests' hands scalded, and sometimes the teacup will fall and break because of scalding, causing embarrassment to the guests.

"the guest comes first, then the master, and the stoker comes last". When offering tea, in addition to seniority, step by step, you have to respect the guests first and then the family. After all the people present have had tea, the stoker, commonly known as the "chef" (who cooks and makes tea), can drink, otherwise it is disrespectful to the guests, and it is called "being rude to others" and "being disrespectful to others".

"Forcing guests to dominate, ringing cups and bowls" Guests are not allowed to slap their cups on the edge of the tea tray at will when they are drinking tea. After drinking tea, they should put the cups lightly and do not let the cups make noise, otherwise it is "forcing guests to dominate" or "deliberately provoking".

"Frowning when drinking tea means abandoning suspicion". Guests should not frown when drinking tea. This is a warning to the host. When the host finds the guest frowning, he will think that people dislike their tea, which is not good and not to the taste.

When drinking tea, the courtesy between the host and the guest is even more reflected in the proverb "Respect first, then humble, old first, then young". Mr. Cai said:

"Respect first, then humble, old first, then young" and said "please have tea" to others, and the other party responded with "don't stand on ceremony", "don't mention it" and "thank you". If there are many people, it is inconvenient to take back the cup and put it on the table in front of everyone. When you pour tea for the first time, you should respect the old before the young, and you can pour it in order the second time. When the other party accepts the tea pouring, there should be a response in return. The tea is for the elders, and you should flick it twice on the table with your middle finger to express your gratitude. Thank you for the food and the middle finger flicking on the desktop for the second time.

It's amazing that there are so many Chaoshan culture and psychological factors in a small cup of congou tea. At the end of today's program, let's make a cup of thick congou tea and slowly taste the mystery in this congou tea.

Chaozhou Kung Fu Tea Method

kung fu tea is the most representative tea art in China. It is developed on the basis of the "loose tea" drinking method that existed in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and belongs to the category of loose strip tea brewing method, which is the extreme of the brewing method. Although it is popular in Fujian, Guangdong, Hong Kong and Taiwan, its influence has already spread all over the country and far away from overseas. Chaoshan kungfu tea is unique. If brew tea doesn't have kung fu, it can't be called kungfu tea. Therefore, all the credit for Kung Fu tea lies in brew tea, the method of making tea. Kung fu tea's performance program is introduced below.

kung fu tea performance utensils: tea, especially Wuyi rock tea and Anxi Tieguanyin. Vessels, Meng Chen jar (Yixing teapot), Ruochen Ou (teacup), Yushu mill (kettle), Chaoshan oven (electric stove or alcohol stove), tea appreciation tray, tea boat and so on, which can hold 3-4 cups of water.

(1) Appreciating fragrant teas: The master brewer took a pot of tea from the tea barn with Chaze, put it in the tea appreciation tray, helped the brewer to receive the tea appreciation tray, let the guests appreciate the dry tea, and introduced the characteristics of the tea used.

(2) Meng Chen showering: The purpose of pouring boiling water on the pot body is to warm the pot body, which is called "warming the pot".

(3) Oolong enters the palace: the tea leaves are pulled into the teapot with a teaspoon, and the order of filling the tea should be fine first, then thick, and then the tea stems.

(4) high flushing of hanging pot: fill the Meng Chen pot with water until the mouth of the pot is full.

(5) spring breeze (scraping the top and showering eyebrows): scrape off the foam at the mouth of the kettle with the lid, cover the lid and wash away the foam at the top of the kettle. The watering pot can flush the lid and body of the pot, but not the air holes, otherwise water will easily rush into the pot. The purpose of watering the pot is to clean it, and the other is to make it hot inside and outside, which is beneficial to the display of tea fragrance.

(6) Fumigating and washing the fairy face: the water in the pot is quickly poured out to wash the tea, and the purpose is to wash away the floating dust on the surface of the tea.

(7) If you take a bath, use the first tea-making water to iron the cup, which is also called "warm cup", and turn the cup body, just like a flywheel, but also like flying flowers and dancing.

(8) Jade liquid is returned to the pot: the pot is filled with boiling water again by high-impact method.

(9) Traveling around the mountains and playing with water: also known as carrying a pot, holding the pot around the tea ship and dripping the water drops at the bottom of the pot to prevent the water drops from falling into the cup and affecting the sanctity of tea.

(1) Guan Gong's tour of the city: tea is poured in cycles, and the teapot is like Guan Yu's tour of the city. The purpose of this time is to make the tea and soup in the cup consistent in shade, and to pour it low so as not to lose too much aroma.

(11) Han Xin ordered soldiers: When the tea soup is almost finished, pour the rest of the pot into each cup. These are the essence of the whole pot of tea soup, which should be evenly distributed bit by bit, hence the nickname Han Xin ordered soldiers.

(12) offer fragrant teas: honor the guests first, or in order of age.

(13) tasting the fragrance and rhyme: smell the fragrance first, then taste the tea. When sipping tea, hold the rim of the cup with your thumb and forefinger, and hold the bottom of the cup with your middle finger, commonly known as the three dragons to protect the tripod. Tasting and drinking should be divided into three mouthfuls. "Only after three mouthfuls can you know the taste, you will be tempted after three times." The fresh and mellow tea soup is memorable.

(14) high-impact and low-sieve: brew the second tea and repeat the eighth step.

(15) Re-bathing in Ruochen: The method is the same as taking a bath in Ruochen.

(16) Re-consider the wonderful fragrance: repeat the ninth, tenth and eleventh steps.

(XVII) Re-recognize the rhyme: repeat the 13th step.

(18) Three pours of flowing clouds: brewing the third tea. Oolong tea, such as Tieguanyin, has good internal quality, strong and lasting aroma, and has the reputation of "seven bubbles with more fragrance". Because it is a performance, it is only brewed three times, hoping to bring a good aftertaste to the guests.

(XIX) Thank you for tea and welcome guests: Complete the whole brewing process of kung fu tea.

It is advisable for kung fu tea to brew tea twice, not more than three times at most. This will not only give the guests a complete impression, but also make the performance time too long. If you are in life, you can continue to brew, and every time you brew, there should be an interval. You can't make a pot after soaking it, and the interval is about 1 minutes.

tasting tea

Chaoshan kungfu tea is not as famous at home and abroad as China Kung Fu, but as the essence of Chaoshan culture, it has absorbed the feelings of Chaoshan people from generation to generation. For Chaoshan people, tea is no longer a simple drink, but a life in life. It bears the attitude of Chaoshan people and reflects their philosophy of life.

I am always puzzled by the way people in the north drink tea. Just throw some tea leaves into a large glass of water and soak it. Although this method of drinking tea is more efficient, they drink tea more as a thirst-quenching drink than as a leisurely tea tasting or tea tasting. It is even more ironic for foreigners to drink tea. When milk is added to a cup of soaked black tea, teh tarik tastes nothing, and the essence of tea disappears.

To really drink tea, you should drink tea calmly and leisurely. The kungfu of Chaoshan Kung Fu Tea is officially sublimated in this realm. A person sitting in front of a tea table is not sitting in danger, but sitting casually, calm and carefree, no matter whether Mount Tai collapses in front or the water of the Yellow River floods in front; A set of Chaoshan Kung Fu tea set usually has four small cups and a special teapot, preferably made of purple sand; A pot of boiling water and keep heating it; The method of making tea is also very particular, such as Guan Gong touring the city and Han Xin ordering troops.

no matter what method is used, the tea making should be done slowly, and the coordination between heart and hand should be emphasized, and the inside and outside should be consistent. Drinking tea is not a gobble, but a slow taste. Let the tea smell straight into the nose, slowly seep into the heart and lungs, and be integrated with inner peace.

Choose tea

Tieguanyin, also known as Red Heart Guanyin and Red Sample Guanyin. It was discovered and popularized in Yaoyang, Xiping, Anxi during the Yongzheng period of Qing Dynasty. Delicate nature, poor resistance, low yield, there is a saying that "good drink is not easy to plant." "Peach with red buds and crooked tails" is one of the characteristics of pure Tieguanyin, and it is an excellent variety for making oolong tea.

The main producing area of Tieguanyin in Anxi is "Inner Anxi" in the west, where the mountains are surrounded, the peaks are continuous and the clouds are lingering, and the soil is mostly acidic red soil with deep soil layer, which is especially suitable for the growth of tea trees.

Tieguanyin is well-made and exquisitely crafted. It germinates in late March and blooms in early May. Spring, summer, summer and autumn can be harvested in one year. Autumn tea is the best tea quality, and spring tea produces the most, accounting for about 4-45% of the annual output; Autumn tea has the strongest aroma, commonly known as "autumn fragrance", and its output accounts for about 15-2%. When picking fresh leaves, two or three leaves must be picked after the tender shoots form buds, and when the top Ye Gang unfolds into a small open face or a middle open face, and care should be taken not to break the leaves, fold the leaves, break the leaves, or bring fish leaves and old terrier. It should also be noted that tea leaves from different production areas and different picking times should not be mixed.

Tieguanyin is still loved by Kung Fu tea drinkers. Tieguanyin is often among the best in many famous tea appraisals at home and abroad. Tieguanyin has a mellow taste and has the reputation of "seven bubbles are fragrant". Its appearance is bright and shiny, and the surface of tea strips is agglomerated with a layer of hoarfrost; Also, it is a good choice for congou tea because of its exquisite twisting technique, tight knot of the rope, and convenient taking tea into the jar. However, since the 196s, Tieguanyin's "overlord" status has been shaken with the rise of Phoenix Narcissus Tea System.

choose water

water is the carrier of tea; Without water, the so-called tea color, tea fragrance and tea taste cannot be reflected. Therefore, choosing water has naturally become an important part of the art of drinking tea. The main criteria for discussing water in past dynasties are nothing more than two aspects: water quality and water taste. The water quality requires clear, lively and light, while the water taste requires sweetness and coldness (cold).

clear is for turbid. Water should be clean in texture, which is the common sense in life. In brew tea, water should be brewed in a clear way, "Qingming is not confused." In order to obtain clean water, in addition to paying attention to the choice of water springs, the ancients also created many methods of clarifying and nourishing water. Tian Yiheng's Sketch of Boiling Springs said: "Taking stones from water and putting them in bottles can not only nourish their taste, but also clarify the water so that it will not be confused." "Choose clean white stone in water and cook it with spring, especially wonderful, especially wonderful!" This method of nourishing water with stones also contains an aesthetic taste. In addition, the water purification method of kitchen soil is commonly used. Luo Lin's "Tea Solution" said: "The large porcelain urn is full of storage, and a piece of Fu Longgan, that is, the dry soil in the center of the stove, is also thrown by heat." Some people think that the water treated in this way can also prevent insects from breeding.

although water is expensive, waterfalls, turbulence and other "excessive water", which lacks the spirit of neutralization and honesty, are also considered by the ancients to be inconsistent with the purpose of tea.

water is light and heavy, which is somewhat similar to what people say today. Hard water contains more minerals such as calcium, magnesium ions and iron salts. Can increase the weight of water. Making tea with hard water does have a negative effect on the color, aroma and taste of tea soup.

sweet, also known as cold and sweet. Yoshida Akita said, "Spring is not difficult to be clear, but difficult to be cold." The spring can be reused, which proves that the spring oozes from the deep layer of the surface, so the water quality is particularly good. This kind of spring is essentially different from "those who are cold due to the dark accumulation of rocks". Most of the latter are "stagnant water" trapped in dark mountain pools, which is harmful to people if they are often drunk. The snow water known as "Tian Quan" is very suitable for brew tea.

At present, the main water quality standards recognized by the tea industry are: the chromaticity is no more than 15 degrees, and there is no difference in color; Turbidity is less than 5 degrees; No odor, no visible matter: PH value is 6.5~8.5, and total hardness is not higher than 25 degrees; Toxicology and bacterial indicators are qualified.

Famous springs in Chaozhou abound: Fengqi Spring and Virgin Spring in the West Lake of Chaozhou; The mountain spring in Shi 'an, Chao 'an, and the dew spring in Sangpu Mountain; Longquan in Tuopu, Shantou; Chenghai Phoenix Spring, Lion Spring, Elephant Spring, Lingquan and Yuquan; Huilai Ganquan and Junziquan; Zhuoxiquan in Chaoyang; The flowing spring of Puning Ma Si Rock; The Lion Springs, Jasmine Springs and Eight Merits Springs in Jieyang ... What is listed here is a veritable "hanging a leak". If we really want to make a census, we don't know how long a list will be drawn up. What's more, there are many "unknown" springs in the mountains and mountains that are "raised in the boudoir".

In addition to mountain springs, Hanjiang, Rongjiang, Lianjiang and Fengjiang in Chaoshan are all rivers with pure water quality as long as they are not polluted. Once upon a time, many residents along the Yangtze River went into the heart of the river to get water from brew tea. Sometimes the river was a little muddy, and there was no need to add white stone, fulonggan or "unpacking and washing". Just put in a little alum, stir it for a few times, and let it stand for a while to become clear, sweet and beautiful water, which could not taste better than mountain springs.

Brewing

Brewing: use tea sets such as bowls, electric kettles, palace cups, scented cups, filter nets, small handlebars, tea clips, tea spoons, tea trays, etc. The steps are as follows-

1) White crane bathing (washing cups): wash the cups with boiling water and raise the internal temperature of the cups;

2) Oolong entering the palace (dropping tea): put tea according to the ratio of tea to water of 1: 2, or increase or decrease it according to the taste preference;

3) hanging pot high flushing (tea brewing): raise the kettle, and the water flows strongly, and rush into the tea set to make the tea turn;

4) spring breeze brushing (foam scraping): scrape the foam floating on the surface of tea soup with the lid of the bowl and cup;

5) Guan Gong's tour of the city (pouring tea): After soaking for one to two minutes, pour the tea into each small handless cup in turn;

6) Han Xin ordered the soldiers (ordered tea): when a little tea was poured, it was dripped into each cup little by little to make it even;

7) appreciate the color and smell the fragrance (see the tea): appreciate the color of the tea in the cup and smell the fragrance of the tea (smell the fragrance on the cup cover instead of the fragrant cup, which is called smelling the fragrance);

8) tasting nectar (drinking tea): smell its fragrance first, and then taste it. Sip and smell, drink in a shallow cup.

in a word, Tieguanyin pays attention to three-thirds of tea and seven-quarters of water, which is "clear and sweet": the water is clear, the water quality is clear, the taste is mellow and the water temperature bursts.

storage: use