The "water mat" is trapped in Luoyang, and it has become a popular local cultural symbol. Water mat, Longmen Grottoes and Luoyang Peony are also called "Luoyang Three Musts". Speaking of Luoyang water mat, it's really different. The reality is that Luoyang water mat has long been famous, which is really different. However, Luoyang water mat, a complete, ancient and atmospheric banquet, has never really left Luoyang City. □ Economic Viewpoint Reporter Chen Yuanyuan Luoyang "The Wind of Water Seats" In Luoyang, water seats have become a local representative banquet. It is called "Three Wonders of Luoyang" together with Longmen Grottoes and Luoyang Peony. The so-called "water mat" has two meanings. One is good at making soup, and the other is to provide food in a series of ways between banquets, eating one after another, just like running water. As a big dish feast, Luoyang Shuixi is unique in China's food culture. Its profound historical origin and cultural connotation make it a wonderful flower of China's gourmet kingdom, attracting tens of thousands of domestic and foreign tourists to taste it every year. "The Manchu-Han banquet is only a few hundred years old, while the water mat in Luoyang has a history of more than 1,000 years. A nation's culture is rooted, and so is its food culture. " Talking about the water mat, Li Yanting, deputy general manager of Luoyang Zhenbutong Hotel Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as Zhenbutong) always associates it with Luoyang. In his view, Luoyang and the water mat are inextricably linked. Water mat originated in Luoyang, which has a lot to do with Luoyang's geographical climate. Luoyang is surrounded by mountains and located in the basin, with little rain and dryness. People here are used to using locally produced starch, lotus root, yam, radish, cabbage and so on. In order to make an economical and rich banquet, and with the passage of time, Luoyang water mat with strong local characteristics was gradually created. The way of draft mat permeates the ancient capital culture of Luoyang. Luoyang water mat began in the Tang Dynasty, with 24 dishes, including cold and hot, vegetarian, sweet and salty, sour and spicy, symbolizing the infinite scenery of Wu Zetian's 24 years in power. The order of serving is also very particular. First of all, eight cold dishes, as appetizers, symbolize Huang Wu's eight achievements in service, ceremony, Taoism, desire, art, literature, Zen and politics. After three rounds of wine, the guests were served hot dishes, and in 16 hot dishes, each dish also has a legendary historical allusion. In Luoyang, there are many people who run water mats, ranging from luxury restaurants and hotels to street stalls. In particular, the small hotel operating water mats has almost become a unique landscape in Luoyang. The top spot is "Really Different". However, just as Luoyang's industry is mentioned, it must be called "Luoyang" and "Yi Tuo". Speaking of Luoyang water mat, it is really different and has become an important cultural symbol. This time-honored Chinese shop, founded in 1895, has a history of more than 100 years, and its position in Luoyang water mat should not be underestimated. The folk saying that "I was really different when I arrived in Luoyang City" is proof. "If you want to know about the water mat in Luoyang, it's really different. The water cushion was developed there. " The staff of Luoyang Cuisine Association told the economic viewpoint reporter. In Luoyang, real difference has become synonymous with water cushion. "It's really different to be a water mat in Luoyang. It's the most authentic and has the most local cultural characteristics. From the late Qing Dynasty to the present. It can be said that it is really different to give full play to this famous banquet. " Li Yanting said. According to Li Yanting, moving from Zhongzhou Road to Jianxi and then moving back to Zhongzhou Road in the old city is really different. Especially around 1997, "at that time, due to various factors such as system reform and the increase of retired old workers, the operation in different places went downhill and the operation was very depressed." Recalling the scene at that time, Li Yanting was vivid. "In the same year, in order to save the difference, the original catering service corporation was merged into the present Luoyang Restaurant Co., Ltd.. At that time, Luoyang Catering Co., Ltd. was a very prosperous company. " Li Yanting said. After that, it was really different, and a large-scale transformation began. It is reported that the Forbidden City on the fourth floor is really different, which can be said to be the condensation of Luoyang, the ancient capital of the 13th Dynasty. The Xia, Shang, Zhou, Han, Wei, Jin, Northern Wei, Sui and Tang Dynasties successively established Luoyang as their capital, and the ancient history and splendid culture were fully displayed. Here, maps, emperor statues and cultural relics of various dynasties are displayed in an orderly manner, as if telling people about the glory of Luoyang. In addition to hardware, the real difference has also been greatly improved in software. With the progress of the times, it is really different to constantly bring forth the old and bring forth the new in dishes. In the past, a bone could cook a table of meals, but now all kinds of poultry, seafood and bean products have been greatly improved. "This also has a lot to do with the continuous enrichment of raw materials. Now that the living conditions are good and the material and cultural living standards have improved, different chefs have innovated the variety and structure of Luoyang water mat on the basis of inheriting traditional cooking skills, making it more abundant and perfect. " Li Yanting said. It is understood that in June this year, Japanese folk artist Dong made a special trip to study art here. He studied here for a week, mainly studying Luoyang water mat. This also made Luoyang water mat begin to go abroad. In 2002, Luoyang water mat was recognized as "China Famous Banquet" by China Cuisine Association. In 2003, Zhenbutong Hotel was awarded the title of "International Famous Store". Among them, Zhenyi Palace Water Mat won the "International Food Quality Gold Award". But Luoyang water mat has long been famous, which is really different. However, Luoyang water mat, a complete, ancient and atmospheric banquet, has never really left Luoyang City. "Fame has improved and market demand has increased. Nowadays, the store is crowded with customers every day, and you can't find a seat when you go late. It's really different. It's really different Why not open a chain store? " During the first Cultural Heritage Day in Henan Province, many tourists who wanted to try something really different but failed to do so complained. "Luoyang's water mat is as famous as Zhengzhou's emblem and Kaifeng's steamed buns, but now Kaifeng's steamed buns have gone out of Henan and opened branches all over the country. The emblem of Hutchison and Xiaoji in Zhengzhou is also blooming everywhere in Zhengzhou, but it is really different. There are no branches at present. " To outsiders, Luoyang water mat seems to be a bit stuck in the past, and Li Yanting is also aware of this. He believes that this may have something to do with Luoyang people's strong homesickness. However, it is revealed that there are some technical outputs. Really different once sent chefs to Nanyang, Xinyang, Zhengzhou in the province, Shenyang, Hebei and other places outside the province to jointly make Luoyang water mats with local restaurants and restaurants, but they did not persist for a long time. At present, only Houdefu in Beijing has done a good job, and there are still several water mats with special dishes. However, the truly different brand advantages have not been further strengthened. Li Yanting believes that at present, different technologies and management can't keep up with the needs of its development. If you open a branch blindly, you can only ruin your future. In addition, because Luoyang water mat mostly uses pepper and pepper as seasoning, its hot and sour taste is unacceptable to many southerners, so it is also restricted by some areas. Cultural case 3: the wealth engine of festival culture "Luoyang peony is the best in the world" was originally used to describe the color of Luoyang peony. Now, the word "one" is more reflected in the annual Luoyang Peony Fair. Luoyang Peony Fair, one of the "four major festivals" in China, has become a business card of Luoyang. However, in recent years, the status of peony, the root product of the Expo, is being challenged by all parties. As a result, Luoyang played the second card of festival culture-Heluo Cultural Tourism Festival. The temples in Luoyang. Nice place and nice people! Luoyang is the most famous ancient capital of the Nine Dynasties.