When the fishmonger transports Siniperca chuatsi to Huizhou mountainous area, the gills of Siniperca chuatsi are still bright red, and the scales remain unchanged, that is, it will emit a special smell that looks smelly but not smelly. People washed this mandarin fish and made it into a dish. It turns out that it not only has no fishy smell, but also tastes better than fresh mandarin fish. So this practice has been passed down slowly, and it is still very prestigious until now.